Kush&Cookies Organic Living Soil, Mars Fce 6500

Hey guys. It's been a 6 days since I up potted from solo cups to 1.5g and quite happy with growth rates so far. 2 days after up potting I noticed the shade of green of the leafs getting a little lighter than they were so decided to give them their first top dressing.

sticking to the suppliers recommendations Each plant got 1 tbs worm castings per g of soil, neem, incest grass, my grow and myboost. Sewweed dust and volcanic rock dust. The day after I sowed clover on top.

The plants have responded great to the feeding imo, the roots systems of both were down to bottom of the pots 2 days after the dressing and no visual signs of burning.
The kush and cookies leafs were dropping a little yesterday, and one leaf done that claw Thingy, but the pot defo wasn't over loaded with water. Been careful not of over water, so windering why it went like that if yous have any suggestions? It was only 1 leaf so definitely not panicking. The plants are drinking well.
The kush and cookies has a little stretch going on between the nodes, decided to top it.
On the other hand the GSC has Excellent node spacing, very compact. It's just a lot smaller than the kush and cookies, it may be a bit of a pain trying to keep and even canopy when I finally try to scrog them.

I had to take the humidifier out, I shouldn't of got a manual one, it was spiking way to much, I'm finding wet towels are keeping it much more stable for now. Have also turned the light up to 45%. How long should I wait until u potting again? Is it when the roots begin to ball at the bottom?
Also. Managed to get 2 worms into the next pots, and they went down. For now

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Nunyabiz said:
Well, I can only speak for myself, everyone has a slightly different grow system that works for them.

I believe a drip system would work fine as long as you get your soil tilth right and have a cover crop and worms and thick mulch layer.
Myself I water 5% of soil volume DAILY, once in awhile I skip a day, but I always keep my soil moist I never allow even the top 1" to dry out.
But as I said I have a light cover crop before the cannabis takes over and shades it out at which time the cover crop becomes worm food and adds nitrogen to the soil.
That sucks up water plus all the roots keep the soil loose and airy, then the worms are drilling holes all over and I super oxygenate my water with o2 emitters to get as much dissolved oxygen into the soil as possible.
A good LOS should basically be treated almost like Coco.
So IF you get your soil right, with at least 30% aeration in the form of pumice, rice hulls and precharged biochar, make it come alive, worms, bugs, mycorrhazae then yes its preferable to keep the soil moist, not soaking wet, but nice and moist.

I use 20 gallon fabric pots, would prefer at least 30+ gallon but won't fit in my space.
So I water 6 to 7 days a week with 1 to 1.5 gal of water per day.

Root rot comes from soil that is lacking oxygen.
Do everything you can to get as much oxygen to the roots as possible and you shouldn't have to worry about it
Click to expand...
Hey man, am staring to source materials for flowering medium, have just potted up my plants into 3g were I will veg for at least 8 more weeks.. I want there plants a good size before I send to flower, don't mind vegging for extra few weeks.
Have few questions if u don't mind. I've noticed for flower they say for coyotes base mix u use 33% 33%33% ratio, worm castings, peat moss, and compost. Thinking of this as base and just wondering what u think?
Should I add vermiculite to the mix as well to help airate the soil?
Il be adding the amendments I have already got for flowering that I listed above. Would the 33% worm casting not be to much N for flowering, maybe add bit less of them?
Nunyabiz said:
Well, I can only speak for myself, everyone has a slightly different grow system that works for them.

I believe a drip system would work fine as long as you get your soil tilth right and have a cover crop and worms and thick mulch layer.
Myself I water 5% of soil volume DAILY, once in awhile I skip a day, but I always keep my soil moist I never allow even the top 1" to dry out.
But as I said I have a light cover crop before the cannabis takes over and shades it out at which time the cover crop becomes worm food and adds nitrogen to the soil.
That sucks up water plus all the roots keep the soil loose and airy, then the worms are drilling holes all over and I super oxygenate my water with o2 emitters to get as much dissolved oxygen into the soil as possible.
A good LOS should basically be treated almost like Coco.
So IF you get your soil right, with at least 30% aeration in the form of pumice, rice hulls and precharged biochar, make it come alive, worms, bugs, mycorrhazae then yes its preferable to keep the soil moist, not soaking wet, but nice and moist.

I use 20 gallon fabric pots, would prefer at least 30+ gallon but won't fit in my space.
So I water 6 to 7 days a week with 1 to 1.5 gal of water per day.

Root rot comes from soil that is lacking oxygen.
Do everything you can to get as much oxygen to the roots as possible and you shouldn't have to worry about it
Click to expand...
Hey, I'm currently sourcing base mix for flowering, and planning on using the standard cootes base mix of 33% worm castings, 33% Compost, 33% sphagnum. All also be adding the amendments above for flowering as well.. Just curious if u think the 33% worm castings will be to much N for flowering plants? Should I add vermiculite to the mix also instead of perlite?
Thanks in advance....
I up potted them to 3g other day... They had good root systems, and that was just a week of root growth..

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gazmufc said:
Hey man, am staring to source materials for flowering medium, have just potted up my plants into 3g were I will veg for at least 8 more weeks.. I want there plants a good size before I send to flower, don't mind vegging for extra few weeks.
Have few questions if u don't mind. I've noticed for flower they say for coyotes base mix u use 33% 33%33% ratio, worm castings, peat moss, and compost. Thinking of this as base and just wondering what u think?
Should I add vermiculite to the mix as well to help airate the soil?
Il be adding the amendments I have already got for flowering that I listed above. Would the 33% worm casting not be to much N for flowering, maybe add bit less of them?

Hey, I'm currently sourcing base mix for flowering, and planning on using the standard cootes base mix of 33% worm castings, 33% Compost, 33% sphagnum. All also be adding the amendments above for flowering as well.. Just curious if u think the 33% worm castings will be to much N for flowering plants? Should I add vermiculite to the mix also instead of perlite?
Thanks in advance....
I up potted them to 3g other day... They had good root systems, and that was just a week of root growth..

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Click to expand...
First, if you're staying in tiny pots you're better off just doing coco because you're going to need to feed them plant available nutrients probably before you get to flower.
Just going to make it harder on yourself.

If you want to do Living Organic Soil then you need at least 15 gallon fabric pots and make a proper Clackamas Coots soil recipe, I would use "pumice, rice hulls and precharged biochar" as aeration.
You want 30-35% aeration, 30% AGED compost, 30% peat moss, 5% a mix of
Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 cup Per Cubic Foot

Terviva Karanja Cake @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Brix Blend Basalt @ 2 Cups Per Cubic Foot

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Then maybe a 1" layer of really good, either home made or high quality worm castings on top that has worms and cocoons in it.
Then a cover crop to get roots and exudates into the soil to get the mycorrhazae to start to establish.
Then add a mulch layer once the cover crop is growing.
 
Nunyabiz said:
First, if you're staying in tiny pots you're better off just doing coco because you're going to need to feed them plant available nutrients probably before you get to flower.
Just going to make it harder on yourself.

If you want to do Living Organic Soil then you need at least 15 gallon fabric pots and make a proper Clackamas Coots soil recipe, I would use "pumice, rice hulls and precharged biochar" as aeration.
You want 30-35% aeration, 30% AGED compost, 30% peat moss, 5% a mix of
Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 cup Per Cubic Foot

Terviva Karanja Cake @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Brix Blend Basalt @ 2 Cups Per Cubic Foot

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Then maybe a 1" layer of really good, either home made or high quality worm castings on top that has worms and cocoons in it.
Then a cover crop to get roots and exudates into the soil to get the mycorrhazae to start to establish.
Then add a mulch layer once the cover crop is growing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for replying. I plan on up potting for flowering into 12g in 4 weeks or so depending on how big they get. Unfortunately build a soil doesn't export to Europe, but have started watching their videos, so thanks for that. I will definitely be sourcing all the right materials for my next grow to do proper cootes soil mix.
For now tho I have to roll with these amendments, though this company is relatively new, they do sweat there amendments are every bit as good as gia. I havnt used either before so I wouldn't know for sure. I've since bought a bubbler for watering, and also some molasses. Have heard this is good for feeding microbes. What do u think of the growth of my plants for how old they are? Just curious if u think they good, bad or just ok lol
Will be ordering the AC infinity T4 in 2 weeks. Looking forward to that, it will be another vital pice of equipment of the list. Thanks for taking the time to comment...
 
GSC 25 days. Again could I remove the bigger fan at the top to allow light to penetrate?
I was planning on trying to get these plants nice and big, but I'm wondering now should I just flower them sooner rather later so I can get a bit of bud in the door and move on to the next grow. I see now what someone was saying to me earlier, that I should of done 4 plants and fill the tent out a bit. I've 2 gorilla zkittles and 2 wedding cakes ready that are burning a hole in my pocket ready to go lol
Folks are right about growing.. You really need patience

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gazmufc said:
What do u think of the growth of my plants for how old they are? Just curious if u think they good, bad or just ok lol
Click to expand...
Id say fair, main thing is they look healthy.

I just picked one grow recently, not fast not slow, just average grow.
This is my average growth at 30 days.
In 25 gallon pot.
I start the seedling in solo cup for 7 days then transplant straight to 25 gallon fabric pot.
You want the mycorrhazae to have the longest period possible to colonize the roots, constant transplanting disturbs and retards this process.

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Nunyabiz said:
You got about 20 leaves, why get rid of the biggest two?
If you want more light to get to lower areas I would bend the plant over and LST.
Click to expand...

Nunyabiz said:
Id say fair, main thing is they look healthy.

I just picked one grow recently, not fast not slow, just average grow.
This is my average growth at 30 days.
In 25 gallon pot.
I start the seedling in solo cup for 7 days then transplant straight to 25 gallon fabric pot.
You want the mycorrhazae to have the longest period possible to colonize the roots, constant transplanting disturbs and retards this process.

20200610_101051.jpg
Click to expand...
That's very nice man, sick plant for 30 days. I'm impressed. At least I knownow what to be aiming for. That's also a great channel build a soil. Watched whole episode last nte on when he was on Mr grow it channel. Was a bit of a information over load for me, but I know now what material I need to source for my next grow. Have it wrote down. At least this grow has been a good learning experience. Im.lucky I've such good experiend growers to call on for help lol. Not going to update this for a while now. Thanks again...
 
Hey folks
Just wanted to give a wee update and get some advice. Figured out my PH pen was faulty, it was reading my tap water pH at 7.1, when it was actually 8.4!! Yikes! Had to get a new pen. Guess that wasn't helping at all.

I got pump and air stone, and I'm now bubbling the water for days before I water. The kush and cookies had little bit of leaf pale, started making teas about 2 weeks ago, of worrm casting, insect grass, and molasses!
Between that, and the water now being put to a pH of 6.8-7.2, its actually worked.. Fricking awesome! Was nice seeing the plant correct, any light pale on the leafs have now gone. Defo a nice feeling!

Both plants in the weeks after started picking up a bit, had to hard crop the kush and cookies otherwise it was gonna really get ahead of the GSC. Managed to get a nice crush on the stem and bend it over. Tbh it didn't even seem to knock the plant back. Have both plants now of equal size.

I topped the kusk and cookies as well 2 weeks ago, and shoot development have picked up also.
The GSC is giving no trouble at all, it has remained a nice shade of green throughout, and is a really short stocky, plant with short think branches, but would like for the side shoot to get a bit longer, and I'm wonder should I now remove the bigger fan leaves?

I removed 2 of the bigger fan leafs about 2 weeks ago, the side shoot coming off them did slow a bit, but now have caught up, not sure if I should remove any more thats why I'm asking? Have seen a lot of people who say yes, but each time I open up the tent those fan leafs are sitting up nicely soaking up all the rays!
Not sure what to do, but I want extra branching, and most people say by removing them leafs, yes will shock it, but it'll bounce Back better, and lead to better side branch development, what ya, s all think?

Other than the wee bit of paling, no other problems in the plants, happy with the organic dry amendments so far, been top dressing every 2 weeks, but my god it absolutely stinks after the top dressing! Wow.. No one prepared me for that lol. I grow in my bedroom, and no way can I breath that, so it's the couch for me for 2 ntes every 2 weeks lol.. I even tried putting a thin layer of soil over the top dress to dampen out the smell. It works a little.

Oh, I've a infinity S4 with the 69 controller system arriving tomorrow.. Controlling and monitoring my climate from my phone is gonna be ikinda cool. Any inputs would be appreciated, thanks guys....
 
Glad you got the ph thing right! Much better!
 
Haha turns out I got a lady with balls.. Fkn awesome eh! Got wee pollen sacks appearing on the branches now. I've been pulling them off, but they just coming back, so obviously gonna have to bin this one. Kinda sucks. 4 seeds have now come down to 1 plant lol. At least us noobs give yous a bit of a laugh
At least now I can just focus on the girl scout cookies now. Is there anything I can do with this plant before I bin it?

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gazmufc said:
Haha turns out I got a lady with balls.. Fkn awesome eh! Got wee pollen sacks appearing on the branches now. I've been pulling them off, but they just coming back, so obviously gonna have to bin this one. Kinda sucks. 4 seeds have now come down to 1 plant lol. At least us noobs give yous a bit of a laugh
At least now I can just focus on the girl scout cookies now. Is there anything I can do with this plant before I bin it?
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Don't worry, it happens to all of us. Unless you wanted to save some pollen to make a few seeds with your remaining girl as they'd likely be female altho potentially hermi too, otherwise I'd just chop her out and bin her, then focus on the girl plant.

A few years ago when I had no seeds, I used the pollen from a friend's chopped male that he'd left chopped out and abandoned out the back of his house, it'd been lying there chopped for a few days, but I was able to selectively pollinate a couple of branches which gave me a couple of hundred seeds which saved both of our bacons the following year when our seed orders continued to get seized and if it wasn't for that we'd been stuck. But unless you're out of seeds, or it is special genetics, I'd just rip it out.
 
Stunger said:
Don't worry, it happens to all of us. Unless you wanted to save some pollen to make a few seeds with your remaining girl as they'd likely be female altho potentially hermi too, otherwise I'd just chop her out and bin her, then focus on the girl plant.

A few years ago when I had no seeds, I used the pollen from a friend's chopped male that he'd left chopped out and abandoned out the back of his house, it'd been lying there chopped for a few days, but I was able to selectively pollinate a couple of branches which gave me a couple of hundred seeds which saved both of our bacons the following year when our seed orders continued to get seized and if it wasn't for that we'd been stuck. But unless you're out of seeds, or it is special genetics, I'd just rip it out.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the speedy response stunger. Yeah a bit gutted but shit happens. I knew this would be a big learning curve. Took it out of the tent soon as I noticed. Gonna chop her up and bin it tonight. Just curious how would best way to preserve the pollen sacks? Wrapped up in bit of cling film and in a wee tablet box be OK? Do I need to then store that in the fridge?
 
gazmufc said:
Thanks for the speedy response stunger. Yeah a bit gutted but shit happens. I knew this would be a big learning curve. Took it out of the tent soon as I noticed. Gonna chop her up and bin it tonight. Just curious how would best way to preserve the pollen sacks? Wrapped up in bit of cling film and in a wee tablet box be OK? Do I need to then store that in the fridge?
Click to expand...
Hi Gaz, to save the pollen, you want to allow the pollen balls to first dry. If you save them intact, moisture will likely cancel out the viability of the pollen (that's why if you ever carry out a selective pollination that it is good to spray water on the rest of the plant in case any stray pollen went where you don't want it to go). For storing in fridge or probably better in the freezer, you can store with a little uncooked rice to act as a desiccant or use a desiccant sachet from a vitamin bottle, ideally you don't want any green matter that could contain moisture in with it. To last any length of time it would need to be stored ideally in the freezer or if not the fridge.

For what it is worth, here is a post I made last month about saving some pollen --> here.
 
Stunger said:
Hi Gaz, to save the pollen, you want to allow the pollen balls to first dry. If you save them intact, moisture will likely cancel out the viability of the pollen (that's why if you ever carry out a selective pollination that it is good to spray water on the rest of the plant in case any stray pollen went where you don't want it to go). For storing in fridge or probably better in the freezer, you can store with a little uncooked rice to act as a desiccant or use a desiccant sachet from a vitamin bottle, ideally you don't want any green matter that could contain moisture in with it. To last any length of time it would need to be stored ideally in the freezer or if not the fridge.

For what it is worth, here is a post I made last month about saving some pollen --> here.
Click to expand...
Excellent mate, thanks for the help. Defo gonna save some. Goosh is it really that hard to get seeds shipped into oz. Are they not even allowed for "ornamental use" there?
In Ireland they are legal for ornamental use lol
U can buy all the gear in one shop, and usually there's a hemp store next door that sells the seeds.
 
gazmufc said:
Excellent mate, thanks for the help. Defo gonna save some. Goosh is it really that hard to get seeds shipped into oz. Are they not even allowed for "ornamental use" there?
In Ireland they are legal for ornamental use lol
U can buy all the gear in one shop, and usually there's a hemp store next door that sells the seeds.
Click to expand...
I'm actually in NZ, but to us here, freely ordering for ornamental use is amazing!
 
Hey folks, just a bit of a update and few questions. Me one lonely GSC has been improving over last number of weeks. Up potted to 10g 2 weeks ago.

Planning on veggn for another week, then give good leaf strip and switch light cycle. I know I could veg it for longer but wanna get smoke ASAP lol. Its not getting any cheaper to buy.

Just curious if some of yous could recommend a good organic tea blend that promotes p&k. I've been reading kelp extract is good, what about adding comfrey blend to this as well along with molasses? The amendments company has a different top dressing schedule for flowering for every 2 weeks. Will be sticking to that along with the tea mix.

Got the ac infinity S4 with the 69 controller as well. Real nice monitoring the climate and changing it with ease. The climate has been nice and steady now for about 3 weeks now and I think the plant has responded. The rh from 5am to 12am is usually between 50-60%. Because I'm growing in my bed room I gotta turn the S4 fan down to lowest setting of 1 (I'm a light sleeper lol, especially with nothing to smoke)
This causes the rh to spike to late 60s, I do set the fan to increase in speed to 3 when RH gets to 65. (which wakes me up, ALOT LOL) it's defo nice being able to monitor it and adjust the settings from my phone. Need to order the silencer.

The temps always stay between 21-29c, I've been reading that as long as temp and rh don't swing more than 10 either way is OK.
Should I strip any some of the lower branching?

I've already done the lower 2 nodes, and gave a light leaf strip 2 days ago, and the plant seemed to like it. Every day now no sad looking leafs, all in the "pray" position. Definitely nice when u see the plant reacting to your changes, and you know its going in the right direction. I just wanna watch now with over feeding.
 
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