- Thread starter
- #621
King's Outdoor RD2 Open Journal
- Thread starter KingJoe83
- Start date
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- #622
Hey so I was talking to a man that use to be here that should have had plant of the year last year . Anyways , he is saying that rain water is usually to low and I should try to use my tap water instead which is 7 ph and 140 ppm he said that would work better for soil so I am now going to try to use tap water instead and told to stop using molasses until flower when they can use the sugars ? Thoughts
Molasses feeds the microbes in the soil
- Thread starter
- #624
Hmmm
When you give ACT you’re adding more microbes to the soil.
That was the DE/water ratio not the neem/water ratio in case I wasn't clear.
- Thread starter
- #627
Looks great Joe!
Never really seen someone do it outdoors so I'm interested to see what this will look like in the end. I came up with quadlining mainly for people in tents and looking to keep their plants lower and wider but there isn't any reason you couldn't do it outdoors. You'll be my guinea pig.
What do you think so far is the better question?
- Thread starter
- #629
I love the look. Of t man beautiful really I can sit and stare at it structure all day bud.
Thank for sharing it with us man .
I like the fact that I can let it go as wide as I want I can keep begging down or let go north . My question is all the new mains shoots off those four quadlines that are coming should o remove growth lower on those shoots . Topped all four outsides too
Of course Joe! Everything I've learned is from these forums. Anytime I try something new (or come up with it) and it works well everyone here, at least who has taken time to read my journals, will know first. I want to spread the wealth sort to speak. I love having good looking plants but it makes me even happier to see other people with good looking plants. Maybe someday a lot of people will be quadlining and you can say,"Hey I know the guy that came up with that and I was the first one to do one outdoors!"
Growing outdoors I don't think you will defoliate as much. You will get good penetration down low from the sun and I really wouldn't be doing a ton to them other than the basic quadline. This thing is going to be a giant bush and when it gets bigger you can look at what to remove down low at that time. Anytime you need help just post a pic a holler and I'll let ya know what I think but I'd probably just let it keep growing and see what happens!
- Thread starter
- #631
Thanks man just don’t want to mess it up too bad I’ll let them all grow north then and do thier thang maybe end of July or early August I’ll clean up abit what I don’t like .
Appreciate the advise and support man
you have a full garden there buddy, you are doing so well. I don't know how you can grow outdoors and not have bugs. Kinda goes with the outdoor journey I think, so you're doing your best.
I was thinking, instead of killing the bugs, why not put a big bowl of sweets kinda near your plants, then all the bugs will go to the sweets, instead of your plant. It's like creating a restaurant for the bugs, and diverting them to the bowl of sweets. That sounds logical, but would that truly happen is the experiment.
About your oil.
Believe it or not, your oil does have THC in it, in fact it has 6% CBD and 24% THC, and you can't feel a thing I bet because I used clear headed cannabis strains to make the oil. So you are getting your CBD dose for inflammation, and THC dose for pain without feeling HIGH. Which means maximum Cannabinoids without the HIGH.
You are also getting vitamins, acids, fibers, CBD, THC, and more because I collect my leaves and trim and use it in the oil for "The Entourage Effect." This means the oil is "Full Spectrum" all inclusive. If someone was to just grow hemp, it wouldn't be full spectrum because you only get one CBD, but it's pure CBD if someone doesn't want anything to do with Cannabis, which is a shame and a stigma.
I haven't grown Candida before, so I don't know how what it tastes like in oil. I dedicating this whole plant and clones to just making oil, no vape or shhhmokies because I need oil for my meds. Now i do make oil of other strains and blend different strains together. So you can think about making oil with your Candida and possibly blending it with a fav strain of yours so you will always have the cultivar available.
Now keep in mind your body does build up a tolerance much like as if you're smoking it. So Candida would be a great base oil and then blend other oils as you go. WHY? You want to address that neck pain with THC while the CBD brings down the overall inflammation that is happening.
I have worked very hard perfecting my formula's and blending for the right ailments. I know your neck and brain are the two things we need to address and they are both badly inflamed.
How do you know oil will work for you?
Top 10 list of @Kingjoe improvements since micro-dosing!
10. You have become family to me.
9. You communicate with me more.
8. You sound more hopeful and excited about life.
7. You are more coherent in your writing.
6. You apologized to me like a gentlemen and brother would do. (And I have apologized for my manicness)
5. Your out in the garden making the earth beautiful.
4. Your depressive episodes have been cut in half.
3. You can handle stress better.
2. Your episodes don't last as long.
1. You are treating yourself better.
Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm proud of you, and I just can't hide it.
I hope one day you can evaluate my progress as things are not so obvious to me and I value your feedback.
You deserve a Brainiac sticker for excellent work.
I was thinking, instead of killing the bugs, why not put a big bowl of sweets kinda near your plants, then all the bugs will go to the sweets, instead of your plant. It's like creating a restaurant for the bugs, and diverting them to the bowl of sweets. That sounds logical, but would that truly happen is the experiment.
About your oil.
Believe it or not, your oil does have THC in it, in fact it has 6% CBD and 24% THC, and you can't feel a thing I bet because I used clear headed cannabis strains to make the oil. So you are getting your CBD dose for inflammation, and THC dose for pain without feeling HIGH. Which means maximum Cannabinoids without the HIGH.
You are also getting vitamins, acids, fibers, CBD, THC, and more because I collect my leaves and trim and use it in the oil for "The Entourage Effect." This means the oil is "Full Spectrum" all inclusive. If someone was to just grow hemp, it wouldn't be full spectrum because you only get one CBD, but it's pure CBD if someone doesn't want anything to do with Cannabis, which is a shame and a stigma.
I haven't grown Candida before, so I don't know how what it tastes like in oil. I dedicating this whole plant and clones to just making oil, no vape or shhhmokies because I need oil for my meds. Now i do make oil of other strains and blend different strains together. So you can think about making oil with your Candida and possibly blending it with a fav strain of yours so you will always have the cultivar available.
Now keep in mind your body does build up a tolerance much like as if you're smoking it. So Candida would be a great base oil and then blend other oils as you go. WHY? You want to address that neck pain with THC while the CBD brings down the overall inflammation that is happening.
I have worked very hard perfecting my formula's and blending for the right ailments. I know your neck and brain are the two things we need to address and they are both badly inflamed.
How do you know oil will work for you?
Top 10 list of @Kingjoe improvements since micro-dosing!
10. You have become family to me.
9. You communicate with me more.
8. You sound more hopeful and excited about life.
7. You are more coherent in your writing.
6. You apologized to me like a gentlemen and brother would do. (And I have apologized for my manicness)
5. Your out in the garden making the earth beautiful.
4. Your depressive episodes have been cut in half.
3. You can handle stress better.
2. Your episodes don't last as long.
1. You are treating yourself better.
Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm proud of you, and I just can't hide it.
I hope one day you can evaluate my progress as things are not so obvious to me and I value your feedback.
You deserve a Brainiac sticker for excellent work.
Not sure if I shared this too...
Candida
ACDC x Harlequin
THC CONTENT 0.3%-0.9%
CBD CONTENT 10.6%-20.6%
Candida
ACDC x Harlequin
THC CONTENT 0.3%-0.9%
CBD CONTENT 10.6%-20.6%
Kismet
Well-Known Member
Looking beautiful out in the sunshine Joe.
Kismet
Well-Known Member
When i see ants they usually milking aphids here not sure if anyone else posted on that.
Hi KJ, just dropping by to leave my hand print in your garden to say I was here and chillin'.
Although any help to get rid of pesky bugs is a great idea, If you can, avoid any pesticides and or chemicals on your Candida plant. Try to grow her as organic as you can for your base oil okay buddy? Protect her like she's your sister. Stay safe on the road and don't step on a toad. hahahaha stop it brain!
hugs G2
Although any help to get rid of pesky bugs is a great idea, If you can, avoid any pesticides and or chemicals on your Candida plant. Try to grow her as organic as you can for your base oil okay buddy? Protect her like she's your sister. Stay safe on the road and don't step on a toad. hahahaha stop it brain!
hugs G2
Kismet
Well-Known Member
How To Get Rid Of Aphids: 12 Organic Methods That Really Work
August 19, 2014
This post may contain affiliate links.
Of the over four thousand species of aphid known to exist, around 250 of those are considered harmful to crops. Also known as green flies or plant lice, aphids are among the most prominent and successful garden pests worldwide. These tiny insects pierce the stems of plants – preferring tender new growth to established greenery – in order to suck out the nutrient-rich sap, thus depriving the plant of the fuel that it needs to thrive. Aphids also frequently carry viruses which infect a host plant as the insect feeds. Such viruses are often lethal to crops like potatoes, citrus fruits, and grains. Furthermore, the honeydew secreted by aphids as they feed creates a favorable environment for sooty molds which spread quickly to coat the leaves of a plant, depriving it of sunlight.
While an aphid infestation may start out slow, aphids reproduce quickly and a colony of these pests can easily destroy entire crops if left untreated. Fortunately, there are many ways to keep aphids in check using all natural and organic means that won’t compromise the health of your garden or your family.
1. Physical Removal
For minor infestations of aphids, it may be possible to physically remove the insects from your plants. Don a pair of gardening gloves and brush or pinch the pests from stems and leaves. If the infestation is contained to one or two stalks or branches, prune off the affected portion(s) and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill the aphids.
2. Water Pressure
It is possible to spray aphids off of plants with the simple application of a garden hose. While this method may harm younger, more fragile host plants, it can be quite effective at controlling small aphid populations on more robust and well-established plants.
3. Soap and Water
The basic nature of mild household detergents makes them perfect for getting rid of mild to moderate aphid infestations. Dilute a few tablespoons of dish soap in a small bucket of lukewarm water and use a sponge or spray bottle to apply the mixture to plants where aphids have taken hold. Upon contact, the soap will dissolve the waxy protective coating from aphids’ bodies, dehydrating and eventually killing the insects without harming the plant. Remember to also treat the undersides of leaves where aphid eggs and larvae may be hiding!
***It is important to note that most forms of soap will also kill beneficial insects. Use caution when applying this treatment to your plants, as killing off populations of natural predator insects such as ladybugs, hoverflies, and lacewings will leave the door wide open for new colonies of aphids to move in.***
4. Neem Oil
Used in much the same way as dish soap, organic neem oil may be diluted in water and sprayed onto plants infested with aphids. The organic chemicals present in Neem oil act as a repellent against not only aphids, but also a wide array of other garden pests including mealy bugs, cabbage worms, beetles, leafminers, ants, and caterpillars. Neem oil is also effective in controlling the spread of many types of fungus that infect plants.
***While Neem oil won’t necessarily kill beneficial insects, it may repel them from your garden. For this reason, apply this and any other form of insecticide or repellant with care.***
5. Essential Oils
Create a cocktail of equal parts thyme, peppermint, clove, and rosemary oils 4-5 drops of each should suffice. Mix this solution into a small spray bottle filled with water. Shake well and apply to infested plants. This potent mix of essential oils will kill most garden insect pests as well as their eggs and larvae. This combination also works great as a general purpose outdoor / indoor insect repellent!
6. Insecticidal Soap
There are many premixed insecticidal soap treatments available for garden pest-control. Always remember to read and follow the instructions provided with these products to avoid inadvertently harming any beneficial species of insect that may be present in your garden.
7. Beneficial Insects
Green Lacewing – an important ally to help get rid of aphids.
In some cases, it may be easier to introduce new or bolster existing populations of predator insects into areas infested with aphids. The most well-known of these is the ladybird or ladybug beetle which may be purchased in bulk from most gardening and farming equipment suppliers, or even from Amazon. Also known for their appetite for aphids are hoverfly larvae and green lacewings. Lacewing eggs may also be purchased, however hoverflies will need to be drawn into your garden naturally. Do this by planting fragrant herbs such as garlic, catnip, and oregano whose flowers attract these tiny redators. You can also grow herbs like clover, mint, dill, fennel, and yarrow around your garden to naturally attract ladybugs and lacewings.
Further Reading: 10 Ways To Attract Beneficial Insects To Your Garden
8. Bug-eating Birds
Another method for natural aphid control is to encourage the nesting of birds such as wrens, chickadees, and titmice around your garden. The best way to attract these delightful aphid-devouring predators is to offer them free food and housing space. These birds prefer to nest in small trees and twiggy shrubs that provide good cover. Try planting hydrangeas, abelia, and other shrubs with dense foliage in which birds can hide from predators. Evergreen bushes and trees like boxwoods, arborvitae, and privet are also excellent choices for attracting birds that prey on aphids.
Small birdhouses specifically designed for these species are another great option.
Also, while it may seem counter-productive, put out a feeder for small birds and fill it with seeds that attract small birds. Black oil sunflower seeds, pre-hulled sunflower seeds, nuts and nut hearts are all good choices. Birds who come for the seeds will most likely stay to dine on your aphids!
9. Watch Out for Ants
The honeydew secreted by feeding aphids is also a favorite food for many species of ants. As such, ants will often protect colonies of aphids from predators much like people protect their livestock. Find a way to draw the ants away from their aphid-cattle such as by baiting them with small containers of honey placed near the base of the infested plant. With the ants out of the way birds and predator insects will have better access to the aphids. Here are some more effective ways of getting rid of ants.
10. Natural Repellents
Aphids dislike the organic compounds which give onions and garlic their signature aroma. Grow these and other Alliums around your garden to discourage aphids from taking up residence there.
11. Natural Attractants
Conversely, you can select an area some distance away from the plants you wish to protect from aphids and plant some of these pests’ favorite foods there. Zinnias, dahlias, cosmos, and asters are all appropriate peace offerings which aphids will happily infest in lieu of your precious garden. Also, this will give the birds and predator insects a reason to stay in the vicinity (just in case the aphids decide to leave their designated area!)
12. Preserve the Balance
The solution to controlling aphid populations does not necessarily mean total annihilation of these pests from your garden. Consider this: If there are no aphids to dine on, predators that naturally consume these insects will certainly fly away seeking more abundant food sources. Instead of destroying every aphid in sight, make an effort to grow plants which are hardy enough to survive small populations of aphids. Don’t over-fertilize, over-shelter, or otherwise baby your plants. This will allow them to grow up big and strong, fully capable of healing the small amount of damage caused by a modest number of sap-sucking insects. Once you’ve achieved a balance between predators, prey, and host plants, you may never have to worry about over-population of aphids in your garden again.
August 19, 2014
This post may contain affiliate links.
Of the over four thousand species of aphid known to exist, around 250 of those are considered harmful to crops. Also known as green flies or plant lice, aphids are among the most prominent and successful garden pests worldwide. These tiny insects pierce the stems of plants – preferring tender new growth to established greenery – in order to suck out the nutrient-rich sap, thus depriving the plant of the fuel that it needs to thrive. Aphids also frequently carry viruses which infect a host plant as the insect feeds. Such viruses are often lethal to crops like potatoes, citrus fruits, and grains. Furthermore, the honeydew secreted by aphids as they feed creates a favorable environment for sooty molds which spread quickly to coat the leaves of a plant, depriving it of sunlight.
While an aphid infestation may start out slow, aphids reproduce quickly and a colony of these pests can easily destroy entire crops if left untreated. Fortunately, there are many ways to keep aphids in check using all natural and organic means that won’t compromise the health of your garden or your family.
1. Physical Removal
For minor infestations of aphids, it may be possible to physically remove the insects from your plants. Don a pair of gardening gloves and brush or pinch the pests from stems and leaves. If the infestation is contained to one or two stalks or branches, prune off the affected portion(s) and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill the aphids.
2. Water Pressure
It is possible to spray aphids off of plants with the simple application of a garden hose. While this method may harm younger, more fragile host plants, it can be quite effective at controlling small aphid populations on more robust and well-established plants.
3. Soap and Water
The basic nature of mild household detergents makes them perfect for getting rid of mild to moderate aphid infestations. Dilute a few tablespoons of dish soap in a small bucket of lukewarm water and use a sponge or spray bottle to apply the mixture to plants where aphids have taken hold. Upon contact, the soap will dissolve the waxy protective coating from aphids’ bodies, dehydrating and eventually killing the insects without harming the plant. Remember to also treat the undersides of leaves where aphid eggs and larvae may be hiding!
***It is important to note that most forms of soap will also kill beneficial insects. Use caution when applying this treatment to your plants, as killing off populations of natural predator insects such as ladybugs, hoverflies, and lacewings will leave the door wide open for new colonies of aphids to move in.***
4. Neem Oil
Used in much the same way as dish soap, organic neem oil may be diluted in water and sprayed onto plants infested with aphids. The organic chemicals present in Neem oil act as a repellent against not only aphids, but also a wide array of other garden pests including mealy bugs, cabbage worms, beetles, leafminers, ants, and caterpillars. Neem oil is also effective in controlling the spread of many types of fungus that infect plants.
***While Neem oil won’t necessarily kill beneficial insects, it may repel them from your garden. For this reason, apply this and any other form of insecticide or repellant with care.***
5. Essential Oils
Create a cocktail of equal parts thyme, peppermint, clove, and rosemary oils 4-5 drops of each should suffice. Mix this solution into a small spray bottle filled with water. Shake well and apply to infested plants. This potent mix of essential oils will kill most garden insect pests as well as their eggs and larvae. This combination also works great as a general purpose outdoor / indoor insect repellent!
6. Insecticidal Soap
There are many premixed insecticidal soap treatments available for garden pest-control. Always remember to read and follow the instructions provided with these products to avoid inadvertently harming any beneficial species of insect that may be present in your garden.
7. Beneficial Insects
Green Lacewing – an important ally to help get rid of aphids.
In some cases, it may be easier to introduce new or bolster existing populations of predator insects into areas infested with aphids. The most well-known of these is the ladybird or ladybug beetle which may be purchased in bulk from most gardening and farming equipment suppliers, or even from Amazon. Also known for their appetite for aphids are hoverfly larvae and green lacewings. Lacewing eggs may also be purchased, however hoverflies will need to be drawn into your garden naturally. Do this by planting fragrant herbs such as garlic, catnip, and oregano whose flowers attract these tiny redators. You can also grow herbs like clover, mint, dill, fennel, and yarrow around your garden to naturally attract ladybugs and lacewings.
Further Reading: 10 Ways To Attract Beneficial Insects To Your Garden
8. Bug-eating Birds
Another method for natural aphid control is to encourage the nesting of birds such as wrens, chickadees, and titmice around your garden. The best way to attract these delightful aphid-devouring predators is to offer them free food and housing space. These birds prefer to nest in small trees and twiggy shrubs that provide good cover. Try planting hydrangeas, abelia, and other shrubs with dense foliage in which birds can hide from predators. Evergreen bushes and trees like boxwoods, arborvitae, and privet are also excellent choices for attracting birds that prey on aphids.
Small birdhouses specifically designed for these species are another great option.
Also, while it may seem counter-productive, put out a feeder for small birds and fill it with seeds that attract small birds. Black oil sunflower seeds, pre-hulled sunflower seeds, nuts and nut hearts are all good choices. Birds who come for the seeds will most likely stay to dine on your aphids!
9. Watch Out for Ants
The honeydew secreted by feeding aphids is also a favorite food for many species of ants. As such, ants will often protect colonies of aphids from predators much like people protect their livestock. Find a way to draw the ants away from their aphid-cattle such as by baiting them with small containers of honey placed near the base of the infested plant. With the ants out of the way birds and predator insects will have better access to the aphids. Here are some more effective ways of getting rid of ants.
10. Natural Repellents
Aphids dislike the organic compounds which give onions and garlic their signature aroma. Grow these and other Alliums around your garden to discourage aphids from taking up residence there.
11. Natural Attractants
Conversely, you can select an area some distance away from the plants you wish to protect from aphids and plant some of these pests’ favorite foods there. Zinnias, dahlias, cosmos, and asters are all appropriate peace offerings which aphids will happily infest in lieu of your precious garden. Also, this will give the birds and predator insects a reason to stay in the vicinity (just in case the aphids decide to leave their designated area!)
12. Preserve the Balance
The solution to controlling aphid populations does not necessarily mean total annihilation of these pests from your garden. Consider this: If there are no aphids to dine on, predators that naturally consume these insects will certainly fly away seeking more abundant food sources. Instead of destroying every aphid in sight, make an effort to grow plants which are hardy enough to survive small populations of aphids. Don’t over-fertilize, over-shelter, or otherwise baby your plants. This will allow them to grow up big and strong, fully capable of healing the small amount of damage caused by a modest number of sap-sucking insects. Once you’ve achieved a balance between predators, prey, and host plants, you may never have to worry about over-population of aphids in your garden again.
Looking good Joe! Trying to catch up on what I missed! My last are all jarred up! Love your videos!Some plant porn done from wife tonight in new canon rebel t6i
Enjoy and good night and thanks for following me everyone
What a wealth of information you posted @Kismet - I would have to say my fav was the dome playground climber into a flowered shelter of green goodness. I have so many ideas for this. I wish I had land to live out my imagination. Thanks for sharing Kismet.
Happy 4th mr canada!