Is Anyone Using Phillips 315 Watt Ceramic Metal Halide?

I'd start a 12" plant at 30" and lower it to 24-22" within a week.... The plants will tell you real fast if it's too close.... It's claimed at 24", it'll cover 32"x32", 7sq ft.... In a 32x32 scrog screen, a one plant scrog will fill a 3x3' tent...
This bit is for the uninitiated, a scrog screen isn't just growing a plant through a screen... It's about not growing a plant through a screen, at least not until you let it flower with the switch to 12/12...
Google this for a real education on how to do a proper scrog.... pineapple-express-g13-labs-seed-to-harvest ...

L. da V. was right, Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.... A scrog screen, one plant in a waterfarm type setup, and a 315 watt light will fill quite a few 1 qt canning jars...

Haven't used the flower bulb, the other bulb does a good job... When you get your second light, you can do a comparison grow...
 
Slowpuffer said:
Dr. fish, You're absolutely right . Everytime I try to say anything negative about leds, I get folks upset, so I'm glad you said it !! $$ talks, and BS walks !!
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Happy outdoor harvest season to everyone !!
Just a quick update on my progress with the 630w lec chm. From the gate it was hectic, as my plants were about 18" in tied down position, so with my previous light (400w hortilux hps), I just started 12/12 and released all restraints, but it wasn't even a week till I could see that I should have kept the ties on. so about 2 weeks under the 630 and I'm supercropping my but off, trying and keep them at least two foot from the light. Anyhow, some canopy got bleached real bad, which stunted growth for a week. But with all the problems, I'll still double production over the 400w hps. it's hanging now, so a total weight to be determined in about two weeks. May have to get a higher tent or build a grow area to fit the light !! Mfg. claim that this light runs cooler than a 400w is just false advertising, this baby may not compare to the heat of 1000w, but at least is as hot as 600w, without a cool type reflector. It's not so much the heat as it is the spectrum, will bleach tops at two ft. and more away. Now I'm gonna pull the bloom bulb out and use the 315 4200 to do some vegging with. I think this is gonna be a light that I can use when the outside temps. are low enough, otherwise, I'd have to run the air conditioner, in grow room !!
 
I agree puffer.. it runs way hotter than it is hyped. I had to fashion a homemade AC out of a foam cooler and frozen jugs to push into my intake. Works like a boss. But it does penetrate like Ron Jeremy though for sure

Sent from my SM-N910V using 420
 
So I took some reading from the Arc Tube and see temps ~550° F, which in honesty makes sense as that is how CMH creates the spectrum it does by having a much hotter running Arc Tube than achievable from a standard arc tube not seen in CMH technology.
However if you have the room to keep the light the correct distance from the plants, the temperature does not seem to create a difference as I see about 2-3°F rise from ambient at the canopy.
 
I'm currently growing in a 3X3 tent seed to finish with the phantom 315 cmh. However I am new and this is my first grow so user error will come into play with the end result perhaps. I love the light tho. As far as temps go, it has not been a problem keeping under 80ish degrees F with just a fan. Check into my journal once in awhile and see how the light is performing. Keeping it about 2 feet from canopy with no problems so far.
 
My second grow, first got me hooked all went great second im having problems, im using the sun 315's....i was told to use the 3100k bulb for veg and the 4200k light for flower..not sure if this accurate, the leaves seam a lot greener under the 4200
 
Grebs said:
Yeah you can change bulbs for optimum performance.
I did not bother doing this. Just going by the advice of the store I got it from. Said the difference wasnt enough to bother. I figured if a store was passing up a sale of a bulb then im not going to make them take my money.
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i have the 630 w lec cmh and I use one 4200 and one 3100.
 
Slowpuffer said:
I don't own an amp meter .
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If you are interested in getting a cheap piece of equipment, do a web-search (or look in local hardware stores and/or hardware-themed department stores) for a "Kill A Watt" meter by P3 International. It's a little box that you plug into an electrical outlet and then plug your device into it. It has an LCD display and a few buttons. Displays your AC voltage/frequency and the electrical stats for the device running through it (amps, watts, KWH said device has used whilst connected to the Kill A Watt). Probably a couple of other things.

It's handy for the curious, of course. But it can also help tell you if/when things aren't right in that it shows how much electricity your device is actually using (as opposed to its advertised specification). For I do not recall off the top of my head what the maximum electrical load is, but IIRC it is comparable to a standard US residential outlet's capacity. The only reports I saw of issues were where a few people decided to test out their electric cars' chargers and left them connected in-line. So... Probably shouldn't pulling enough current through one long term to push a 2,000+ pound automobile around for 60-100 miles ;) . Personally, I have just used mine to "spot-check" things. I don't need the KWH function, because I can do 3rd-grade math, lol.

You can often find them for around $20 for the basic model. There appear to be some newer versions that are a little fancier, but the basic model seems to be perfectly adequate for most people.
 
TorturedSoul said:
If you are interested in getting a cheap piece of equipment, do a web-search (or look in local hardware stores and/or hardware-themed department stores) for a "Kill A Watt" meter by P3 International. It's a little box that you plug into an electrical outlet and then plug your device into it. It has an LCD display and a few buttons. Displays your AC voltage/frequency and the electrical stats for the device running through it (amps, watts, KWH said device has used whilst connected to the Kill A Watt). Probably a couple of other things.

It's handy for the curious, of course. But it can also help tell you if/when things aren't right in that it shows how much electricity your device is actually using (as opposed to its advertised specification). For I do not recall off the top of my head what the maximum electrical load is, but IIRC it is comparable to a standard US residential outlet's capacity. The only reports I saw of issues were where a few people decided to test out their electric cars' chargers and left them connected in-line. So... Probably shouldn't pulling enough current through one long term to push a 2,000+ pound automobile around for 60-100 miles ;) . Personally, I have just used mine to "spot-check" things. I don't need the KWH function, because I can do 3rd-grade math, lol.

You can often find them for around $20 for the basic model. There appear to be some newer versions that are a little fancier, but the basic model seems to be perfectly adequate for most people.
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There great if your running 110v...I opted for the 220v for the supposedly savings...
 
Dogwash said:
just finished one run and the yield looks incredible - haven't dried yet so not sure how much exactly
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I - and, likely, others - would be interested in your final yield numbers with those lights.
 
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Here's a few pics, taken at week nine of bloom :)
 
What's causing the extreme leaf-taco on your plants, nitrogen toxicity or...?
 
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