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- #21
Interveinal chlorosis on top of the plant
- Thread starter Aimeone
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It's what I refer to in soil and soiless grows. If it was DWC then most likely those numbers would clog a system up, I don't know for sure as I typically avoid helping others in areas I know nothing about. 
Understood. I use this chart as a reference only.
So take whatever value and divide by 500 to get the EC. Your water is at .2 EC, so your feed is coming in at 1 EC, around 500ppm. Again things point to being on the low end of feeding.
i like your ppm values @MrSauga
i am revisiting mine, you probably saved me a pm.
The only thing I remind people is they still have to keep in mind that N loads increase as PPM increases depending on the nutes. If you have a 9-6-17 product then the high end of the scale will probably burn your plants. If your NPK values are 2-1-3 then the high end of the scale is probably where you want to be. If you run high PPM levels you should probably go to a F-F-F-W where every fourth feed is pH'd water only to help cleanse out the salt buildup.
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- #25
Btw. I never did that up to now. I feed with every watering. Is that a good moment to start? But also keep in mind it takes like 1 week between every watering
I don't think you need to worry about it...however the fact you have high sodium levels in your water may not make it a bad thing either. I would use pH water, in your case distilled as the tap water is just going to add more sodium. Then the last rinse part of the feed reintroduce nutes.
It's not a flush... it's a regular watering with just pH'd water. If you have a week between feedings and your plants take 4L, make that last liter nuted.
I use a product called Megacrop for my feedings, and they get it every feed as well. It's a well balanced feed. Around 2 weeks before harvest I'll pH straight tap water for a good soaking then feed again up til harvest.
exactly the formula i am on.
having a hard time getting enough N on most in early flower at 1200ppm. pushing them.
i'm on F-F-W now. maybe a drop in ppm and a third feed is the ticket.
That to me sounds like a great idea. Are you using the megacrop then?
just switched at flip.
in hempy.
not a good test however.
plants had other issues and were stable but marginal at best. plus upgraded lighting.
i'll get my crap together and pm for a chat in the next couple days.
better let @Aimeone have his thread back.
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- #32
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
6.2 is too high for a non soil grow. You are in the soil range, and you are not in soil. Get out of that mindset. Your medium is mostly peat, and has no nutrient value in it whatsoever, and it doesnt buffer the pH like a soil would do. If you do not get down into the hydro range, this grow is likely to continue going south. Yes, this is a hydro grow... even though it might look like soil.
You're chasing your tail when checking runoff
If you want to do it correctly you need to do a slurry test on the medium(which in your case doesn't matter). Worry about the pH going in as Emilya mentioned(I stood corrected earlier and mentioned above) and lets see where that takes you.- Thread starter
- #35
But aren’t they all made of peat? I compared to the other soils and the only difference I find is the ec value. But I’m trusting you guys.
Btw. On that one plant which is affected the most, I saw that the tips on the top are burned (yellow and dry). Sorry pic is not the best
Btw. On that one plant which is affected the most, I saw that the tips on the top are burned (yellow and dry). Sorry pic is not the best
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Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Many of the soils have peat in them as a minor component... yours is mostly comprised of the stuff. Do not consider this stuff a soil. It is not.
Regarding burning.... when the very very tips of the leaves die, in a little triangular wedge at the very end of the leaf... that is a burn. When the entire leaf is being sucked dry, starting with the ends and then progressing down the leaf, with much more than just the tip being affected... that is no longer a burn, it is cannibalization, from a deficiency.
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