Happy Kitty
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Induction Grow Lights
- Thread starter mangosnapper
- Start date
I am going to get one of these lights and do a test run, side by side with a t5. With the energy savings w less wattage and the low heat, I might switch all my lights over to these. I heard they are by far the best for veg. I saw a guy growing vertically with these. He took off the reflector and hung it. Amazing results, The carbon deposits at the end of the bulbs on the t5s decreased the lumens quite a bit. Plus, you can't take the reflector off the t5s when you hang them vertically. If induction can figure out how to make a bloom light, it could really be a game changer. Its all about return on your investment w energy savings these days. Long live the self sufficient. I heard that indoor growing accounts for 2% of the carbon footprint. Anything we can do to save energy will reduce this.
Sunset Matter
New Member
LEDs don't do nearly as well, and cheap leds are inferior to HID. No penetration of the canopy. The Light system below goes for $1600 on Ebay - so get serious!
Invented by the genius Nikola Tesla in the 1890's, Electrode Less Fluorescent Discharge Lighting has always been superior to other forms of lighting. It uses less electricity and lasts several times longer than other lighting systems before needing replacement — as much as 100,000 hours. Inda-Gro's EFDL lights are far superior to ordinary HID lighting because the spectrum of light they emit is specific to your plants' need for light. They also use 70% less electricity, operate warm, not hot, so no heat energy is wasted, and last forever without leaking gas and losing intensity the way other lighting systems do.
Ordinary fluorescent lighting leaks gas around the electrodes and wears out much faster than EFDL lighting. Incandescent and HID lighting operate through electrical resistance, and give off a lot of heat. The energy waste increases as the wattage goes up - the heat attracts bugs while killing the plants, and the cooling system is friendly to mold. Along with that big electric bill you get the variety of health problems for your plants and yourself that heat, mold, and bugs create.
Inda-Gro has created a lighting system, its PRO 420 PAR light, that is specifically designed to emit wavelengths that will be used by your plants. Using Tesla's EFDL as a starting point, Inda-Gro has engineered the ideal lighting system for growing plants! Other manufacturers offer EFDL lights, but no one but Inda-Gro combines EFDL with LED and Electronic Diode lighting to deliver all the red and far red wavelengths your flowering plants need — even sunset!
Invented by the genius Nikola Tesla in the 1890's, Electrode Less Fluorescent Discharge Lighting has always been superior to other forms of lighting. It uses less electricity and lasts several times longer than other lighting systems before needing replacement — as much as 100,000 hours. Inda-Gro's EFDL lights are far superior to ordinary HID lighting because the spectrum of light they emit is specific to your plants' need for light. They also use 70% less electricity, operate warm, not hot, so no heat energy is wasted, and last forever without leaking gas and losing intensity the way other lighting systems do.
Ordinary fluorescent lighting leaks gas around the electrodes and wears out much faster than EFDL lighting. Incandescent and HID lighting operate through electrical resistance, and give off a lot of heat. The energy waste increases as the wattage goes up - the heat attracts bugs while killing the plants, and the cooling system is friendly to mold. Along with that big electric bill you get the variety of health problems for your plants and yourself that heat, mold, and bugs create.
Inda-Gro has created a lighting system, its PRO 420 PAR light, that is specifically designed to emit wavelengths that will be used by your plants. Using Tesla's EFDL as a starting point, Inda-Gro has engineered the ideal lighting system for growing plants! Other manufacturers offer EFDL lights, but no one but Inda-Gro combines EFDL with LED and Electronic Diode lighting to deliver all the red and far red wavelengths your flowering plants need — even sunset!
Sunset Matter
New Member
Invented by the genius Nikola Tesla in the 1890's, Electrode Less Fluorescent Discharge Lighting has always been superior to other forms of lighting. It uses less electricity and lasts several times longer than other lighting systems before needing replacement — as much as 100,000 hours. Inda-Gro's EFDL lights are far superior to ordinary HID lighting because the spectrum of light they emit is specific to your plants' need for light. They also use 70% less electricity, operate warm, not hot, so no heat energy is wasted, and last forever without leaking gas and losing intensity the way other lighting systems do.
Ordinary fluorescent lighting leaks gas around the electrodes and wears out much faster than EFDL lighting. Incandescent and HID lighting operate through electrical resistance, and give off a lot of heat. The energy waste increases as the wattage goes up - the heat attracts bugs while killing the plants, and the cooling system is friendly to mold. Along with that big electric bill you get the variety of health problems for your plants and yourself that heat, mold, and bugs create.
Inda-Gro has created a lighting system, its PRO 420 PAR light, that is specifically designed to emit wavelengths that will be used by your plants. Using Tesla's EFDL as a starting point, Inda-Gro has engineered the ideal lighting system for growing plants! Other manufacturers offer EFDL lights, but no one but Inda-Gro combines EFDL with LED and Electronic Diode lighting to deliver all the red and far red wavelengths your flowering plants need — even sunset!
You wouldn't warm a hamburger with X-Rays, would you? You would use infrared lighting like restaurants do. But both X-Rays and infrared are forms of light energy, an energy that can measured in term of light wavelengths. X-Rays are less than 10 nanometers in length, while infrared light occurs in the light spectrum above 700 nanometers. Big difference, right? In between is visible light
Most visible light, especially sunlight, falls between 500 and 600 nanometers. The vegetative stage for plants is most active when lit with wavelengths 400 to 520 nanometers in length, where photosynthesis peaks. The absorption of chlorophyll and growth of the buds in the flowering stage peaks at the other end of the visible light spectrum, where 610 to 720 nanometers is the 'red band' of light wavelengths best for plants in the flowering stage. INDA-GRO has engineered its EFDL lights with rare earth metals that emit light in wavelengths specific to your plants growing and flowering stages. Other lights, especially HID, waste your time and money emitting light spectrum wavelengths that, while appearing painfully bright to the unaided eye, are of no value to you the grower. Inda-Gro is target on, emitting light spectra that are specific to your plants' needs.
You can buy 'red' lights, fluorescent and LED lighting, but be careful about that 2100 Kelvin rating that is so often found on the label. Those 'red' flowering stage grow lights are emitting light entirely at the low end of the red spectrum. Only Inda-Gro PAR 420 light gives you all of that red spectrum.
While much of the sunlight spectrum is not utilized by the plant, sunlight does vary from sunrise to sunset — it varies in intensity and in the kind of light wavelengths that fall on the earth. The far red spectrum of sunlight is very important to the growth of flowers, and Inda-Gro's Par 420 light is specially engineered with patented controls to reproduce the 740 nanometer wavelength that falls on the planet Earth with declining intensity as the sun falls below the horizon each evening.
The patented PRO 420 PAR light pontoons — yes, pontoons — attach to either side of the grow light. There are both 660 nm Deep Red diodes and 730 nm Far Red diodes operating through these pontoons. During the day, when the lights are on, the 660 nm diodes are positioned to let this Deep Red light distribute throughout the canopy, a light that is absorbed by Chlorophyll B. This increases the number of flowering sites. Your pontoons are plugged into the same timer as the EFDL. When the power is cut in the evening, the 730nm Far Red diodes become active, powered by lithium ion batteries. After 5 minutes, the lights gradually turn off, one by one, mimicking the declining Far Red light that occurs in every cloudless sunset.
This 730 nm light is what triggers the phytochrome response — your flowers actually grow and increase in size at night. That 730 nm far red light is a signal to the plant to start growing flowers and fruit. What happens without sunset? Under all other grow light systems currently available, it will take two hours for the plants to 'relax' and flowering begin. With Inda-Gro's pontoon lights attached to your PRO 420 Par, the flowering response begins immediately. Inda-Gro reports that its tomatoes are a good third bigger because of the improved flowering response. Six and seven ounce tomatoes become eight and ten ounce tomatoes with the addition of the pontoons.
Obviously, Inda-Gro has put a lot of research into developing the ideal lighting system for indoor and greenhouse grows. Because your plants are important to you, you owe it to yourself to contact Inda-Gro and find out how you can get this light. Remember that Inda-Gro is a US manufacturer. Just because a light appears blue or red does not mean that you are getting the kind of light spectrum you need for growing plants. Buy American, and buy the best. All of the information here is available at the Inda-Gro | Grow Lights | Induction Lighting website.
Ordinary fluorescent lighting leaks gas around the electrodes and wears out much faster than EFDL lighting. Incandescent and HID lighting operate through electrical resistance, and give off a lot of heat. The energy waste increases as the wattage goes up - the heat attracts bugs while killing the plants, and the cooling system is friendly to mold. Along with that big electric bill you get the variety of health problems for your plants and yourself that heat, mold, and bugs create.
Inda-Gro has created a lighting system, its PRO 420 PAR light, that is specifically designed to emit wavelengths that will be used by your plants. Using Tesla's EFDL as a starting point, Inda-Gro has engineered the ideal lighting system for growing plants! Other manufacturers offer EFDL lights, but no one but Inda-Gro combines EFDL with LED and Electronic Diode lighting to deliver all the red and far red wavelengths your flowering plants need — even sunset!
You wouldn't warm a hamburger with X-Rays, would you? You would use infrared lighting like restaurants do. But both X-Rays and infrared are forms of light energy, an energy that can measured in term of light wavelengths. X-Rays are less than 10 nanometers in length, while infrared light occurs in the light spectrum above 700 nanometers. Big difference, right? In between is visible light
Most visible light, especially sunlight, falls between 500 and 600 nanometers. The vegetative stage for plants is most active when lit with wavelengths 400 to 520 nanometers in length, where photosynthesis peaks. The absorption of chlorophyll and growth of the buds in the flowering stage peaks at the other end of the visible light spectrum, where 610 to 720 nanometers is the 'red band' of light wavelengths best for plants in the flowering stage. INDA-GRO has engineered its EFDL lights with rare earth metals that emit light in wavelengths specific to your plants growing and flowering stages. Other lights, especially HID, waste your time and money emitting light spectrum wavelengths that, while appearing painfully bright to the unaided eye, are of no value to you the grower. Inda-Gro is target on, emitting light spectra that are specific to your plants' needs.
You can buy 'red' lights, fluorescent and LED lighting, but be careful about that 2100 Kelvin rating that is so often found on the label. Those 'red' flowering stage grow lights are emitting light entirely at the low end of the red spectrum. Only Inda-Gro PAR 420 light gives you all of that red spectrum.
While much of the sunlight spectrum is not utilized by the plant, sunlight does vary from sunrise to sunset — it varies in intensity and in the kind of light wavelengths that fall on the earth. The far red spectrum of sunlight is very important to the growth of flowers, and Inda-Gro's Par 420 light is specially engineered with patented controls to reproduce the 740 nanometer wavelength that falls on the planet Earth with declining intensity as the sun falls below the horizon each evening.
The patented PRO 420 PAR light pontoons — yes, pontoons — attach to either side of the grow light. There are both 660 nm Deep Red diodes and 730 nm Far Red diodes operating through these pontoons. During the day, when the lights are on, the 660 nm diodes are positioned to let this Deep Red light distribute throughout the canopy, a light that is absorbed by Chlorophyll B. This increases the number of flowering sites. Your pontoons are plugged into the same timer as the EFDL. When the power is cut in the evening, the 730nm Far Red diodes become active, powered by lithium ion batteries. After 5 minutes, the lights gradually turn off, one by one, mimicking the declining Far Red light that occurs in every cloudless sunset.
This 730 nm light is what triggers the phytochrome response — your flowers actually grow and increase in size at night. That 730 nm far red light is a signal to the plant to start growing flowers and fruit. What happens without sunset? Under all other grow light systems currently available, it will take two hours for the plants to 'relax' and flowering begin. With Inda-Gro's pontoon lights attached to your PRO 420 Par, the flowering response begins immediately. Inda-Gro reports that its tomatoes are a good third bigger because of the improved flowering response. Six and seven ounce tomatoes become eight and ten ounce tomatoes with the addition of the pontoons.
Obviously, Inda-Gro has put a lot of research into developing the ideal lighting system for indoor and greenhouse grows. Because your plants are important to you, you owe it to yourself to contact Inda-Gro and find out how you can get this light. Remember that Inda-Gro is a US manufacturer. Just because a light appears blue or red does not mean that you are getting the kind of light spectrum you need for growing plants. Buy American, and buy the best. All of the information here is available at the Inda-Gro | Grow Lights | Induction Lighting website.
Hosebomber
New Member
Sunset, nice attempt to plug your product but we actually test products here and show results from our growers. For $1600 you can get triple the coverage, use less wattage, and have better results with nearly any of the LED suppliers that are actually sponsors of this site. Induction lights are simply slightly more efficient florescent bulbs, and I do mean slightly. There are a number of grows here with your brand and others that prove what I have mentioned a number of times.
I got a gentle nudge from a representative from Econolux that I left this thread hanging.
my apologies to them for my inattention.
- just a quick note about my growing setup. I have two 2'X4' tents, one for veg and one to flower. the VEG tent is covered by a 12X 54 watt T5 fixture and the flower tent is covered by an Econolux 420 RedShift induction lamp-
I did get the 420 red shift lamp at the end of January. There were serious production delays- I suspect the problem was with a subcontractor that was providing the reflector housings.
I believe the company rep truly appreciated (and shared) my impatience with the production delays... I have to say I wasn't always nice to him but he was always polite to me and willing to take responsibility for the delays.
the light itself is very cool- cool dual spectrum high PAR technology and also uses less power and produces much less heat than my T5 fixture (12X54 watt= 648 watts total) with very similar results.
Again, what they lack is a reliable U.S. distributor, so that means that you will pay about as much to ship the fixture as you will to purchase it.
I looked at every possible way to reduce the shipping cost but by the end even a slow boat from China wouldn't make much difference after the shipping and import duties were added to the price of the fixture. For some reason the shipping is managed by a Hong Kong intermediary, but the good news is that they have their sh*t together- fast, efficient and excellent communication through the whole process.
I haven't had any warranty issues yet, and that's a big consideration when purchasing an item whose lifespan should be measured in decades... there doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong with the tube or housing, but issues with the ballast could be a challenge. I see that the Canadian distributor is offering all his product with an "upgraded" ballast. I hope I can source that ballast locally, because if my ballast stops working properly i will be flushing weeks or months of growing time down the drain.
For those who aren't ready to drop 8 C notes for their closet grow, I think this company is putting their PAR specific phosphors into high output T5 tubes. I'll be looking into it myself when it's time to swap out my T5 tubes
my apologies to them for my inattention.
- just a quick note about my growing setup. I have two 2'X4' tents, one for veg and one to flower. the VEG tent is covered by a 12X 54 watt T5 fixture and the flower tent is covered by an Econolux 420 RedShift induction lamp-
I did get the 420 red shift lamp at the end of January. There were serious production delays- I suspect the problem was with a subcontractor that was providing the reflector housings.
I believe the company rep truly appreciated (and shared) my impatience with the production delays... I have to say I wasn't always nice to him but he was always polite to me and willing to take responsibility for the delays.
the light itself is very cool- cool dual spectrum high PAR technology and also uses less power and produces much less heat than my T5 fixture (12X54 watt= 648 watts total) with very similar results.
Again, what they lack is a reliable U.S. distributor, so that means that you will pay about as much to ship the fixture as you will to purchase it.
I looked at every possible way to reduce the shipping cost but by the end even a slow boat from China wouldn't make much difference after the shipping and import duties were added to the price of the fixture. For some reason the shipping is managed by a Hong Kong intermediary, but the good news is that they have their sh*t together- fast, efficient and excellent communication through the whole process.
I haven't had any warranty issues yet, and that's a big consideration when purchasing an item whose lifespan should be measured in decades... there doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong with the tube or housing, but issues with the ballast could be a challenge. I see that the Canadian distributor is offering all his product with an "upgraded" ballast. I hope I can source that ballast locally, because if my ballast stops working properly i will be flushing weeks or months of growing time down the drain.
For those who aren't ready to drop 8 C notes for their closet grow, I think this company is putting their PAR specific phosphors into high output T5 tubes. I'll be looking into it myself when it's time to swap out my T5 tubes
johnicannased
New Member
Lol cheap?
Sometimes you get what you pay for in life and this is one of those prime examples, if it's cheap it usually means the quality is sub-standard, this is what you will find with a lot of chinese products, I am willing to bet if the ballasts have to continuosly operate above 70deg that they don't last to long, btw how do I know this because I experienced the same problems as pinder, but due to a background in electronics I was able to suss it out most chinese stuff is high volume quick turnover crap.
Hosebomber
New Member
Let me guess, You didn't heed the multiple warnings you received from multiple other growers on the forums and got the exact same result?
...what warnings...???...I found this thread meself...
...as far as results I guess we will see...at this point I am sprouting seeds...
...it was the cheap Chinese hardware that queered me on the LED lights I had...
...for what it is worth, I am sure the lights I have are from China too, but I picked them up at the "local" HTG store...
...as far as results I guess we will see...at this point I am sprouting seeds...
...it was the cheap Chinese hardware that queered me on the LED lights I had...
...for what it is worth, I am sure the lights I have are from China too, but I picked them up at the "local" HTG store...
Hosebomber
New Member
I know myself and at least 2 other people told you in your other thread that induction and plasma are both bad ideas. As I said previously in this thread, there have been several fly by night induction companies come to this forum (some have even become sponsors) and members have bought their product and tested them. I have yet to ever see one out produce even the shittiest LED (the old 2 wavelength blue and reds included) without having triple the power advantage. They simply have a poor efficiency rating and spectral output.
...well a statement like that would have been more helpful than disparaging comments...
...I would say that when you said a plasma light was an overpriced fire hazard would have been a good opportunity...
...when I said I fear larf rather than fire you said nothing...
...if I was better at the internet and not on a smart phone I might have dug up those old threads earlier...
...I would say that when you said a plasma light was an overpriced fire hazard would have been a good opportunity...
...when I said I fear larf rather than fire you said nothing...
...if I was better at the internet and not on a smart phone I might have dug up those old threads earlier...
...continued research on the inter Web thing indicates some of the bettter grows are from a combination of induction and the later introduction of or replacement with HPS...
...I am going ahead with the Argo Max grow but now plan (hope) to run red LED bloom lights as supplimetation during flowering...
...I plan on being all clever like and timing the red LEDS to come on and go off 1/2 hour before and after the induction lights do...perhaps not the most sophisticated sunrise / sunset program but I am thinking the plants will like it...
...the supplemental LEDS I was eyeballing feature 660nm and 630nm LEDS...
...HTG rates them at "135 watts" so they likely draw aboot 70 watts, eh...???...45 three watt LEDs...
...how many of those things would one need...???...at this point I am starting 9 plants in a 4x8 tent with three of the Argo Max 400 watt induction lighs...I will most likely finish 8 plants...
...I would LIKE to get each plant it's own light but could probably swing four at the most...
...any comments, 'bomber...???...do you think the pure par induction bulbs are anything more than pretty blue and red hype...???...
...I am going ahead with the Argo Max grow but now plan (hope) to run red LED bloom lights as supplimetation during flowering...
...I plan on being all clever like and timing the red LEDS to come on and go off 1/2 hour before and after the induction lights do...perhaps not the most sophisticated sunrise / sunset program but I am thinking the plants will like it...
...the supplemental LEDS I was eyeballing feature 660nm and 630nm LEDS...
...HTG rates them at "135 watts" so they likely draw aboot 70 watts, eh...???...45 three watt LEDs...
...how many of those things would one need...???...at this point I am starting 9 plants in a 4x8 tent with three of the Argo Max 400 watt induction lighs...I will most likely finish 8 plants...
...I would LIKE to get each plant it's own light but could probably swing four at the most...
...any comments, 'bomber...???...do you think the pure par induction bulbs are anything more than pretty blue and red hype...???...
I just stumbled upon this thread, so I'm sorry if I am tardy in my response.
I am not an electrical engineer, so I can't quote you all of the relevant and nerdy details about my experience with induction lights, but I have 5 inda-gro lights and I've used them with great success in my tents in a rented house that I was growing in for a while. I have recently purchased a home and am in the process of renovating it and so I am putting together a sealed grow room in it and plan on growing with my Inda-gro PRO 420 PAR lights once again. I'm even planning on buying a few more, and possibly some of the pontoons to see if they really do produce a better result (frostier and denser buds, marginally bigger yields). Why would I do this? Why would I sink still more money into an induction grow? Because induction produces results, and does so very well. I really like them, and I get strong results with them. I am comparing my Inda-Gro PRO 420 PAR's to my old HPS's (1000w HPS's) and I prefer the Inda-gro's... enough to buy more of them. They are longer (41") too, so they work good on a light mover for a VERY EVEN CANOPY. My SCROG absolutely rocks using these on a light mover, and I can run them as close as 4" from the top of the canopy too, so I get frostier buds, denser flowering, less heat, and a richer more "carpet-like" canopy with almost double the budding sites. And no, I don't work for Inda-Gro (I work in the plastics industry). Because I can run them closer to the surface of the canopy, I also get really good light penetration into the lower areas of the plant.
I'm not here to bad mouth anyone, so please don't take offense to those who rigorously defend their traditional HID lights. HID lights are still the standard. And many want to see hard evidence... side-by-side grows, pictures, yield weights, etc... I did too, but couldn't find any. So I just bit the bullet and made the plunge back a few years ago when they were first coming out. There are many on these forums who seem to want to just bash the new technology products. I grew with 1000w HPS's for a while there too, and the heat was absolutely killing me in the summers, and I furthermore got scared of scaling up my grow to produce more (fear of LEO's and power companies working together to potentially monitor my electrical usage). I'm a legal grower, but in my area they are very hostile to growers and I want to reduce my chances as much as I can from LEO's. I didn't do side-by-side's for an audience to witness, but instead just spent some money and convinced myself. I'll keep on using my induction lights, and will buy more for my larger sealed grow.
Better control over my environment (less heat).
Longer lights that run cooler give me better light spread over my SCROG and I can run closer, translating to a carpet of buds and a more even canopy.
No more buying expensive bulbs every 3-6 months.
Slightly denser buds too, with good penetration (I say slightly as this is a subjective assessment and more of my opinion than a cold hard fact).
I hate spending the money on the pontoons though. They are so expensive. But I will do so if it will get me the better crop.
Best of luck to you all in your grows, and if anyone has anything to add concerning the addition of the pontoons (or less costly ways to get the same spectrum with a "pontoon alternative"), I'm all ears!
I am not an electrical engineer, so I can't quote you all of the relevant and nerdy details about my experience with induction lights, but I have 5 inda-gro lights and I've used them with great success in my tents in a rented house that I was growing in for a while. I have recently purchased a home and am in the process of renovating it and so I am putting together a sealed grow room in it and plan on growing with my Inda-gro PRO 420 PAR lights once again. I'm even planning on buying a few more, and possibly some of the pontoons to see if they really do produce a better result (frostier and denser buds, marginally bigger yields). Why would I do this? Why would I sink still more money into an induction grow? Because induction produces results, and does so very well. I really like them, and I get strong results with them. I am comparing my Inda-Gro PRO 420 PAR's to my old HPS's (1000w HPS's) and I prefer the Inda-gro's... enough to buy more of them. They are longer (41") too, so they work good on a light mover for a VERY EVEN CANOPY. My SCROG absolutely rocks using these on a light mover, and I can run them as close as 4" from the top of the canopy too, so I get frostier buds, denser flowering, less heat, and a richer more "carpet-like" canopy with almost double the budding sites. And no, I don't work for Inda-Gro (I work in the plastics industry). Because I can run them closer to the surface of the canopy, I also get really good light penetration into the lower areas of the plant.
I'm not here to bad mouth anyone, so please don't take offense to those who rigorously defend their traditional HID lights. HID lights are still the standard. And many want to see hard evidence... side-by-side grows, pictures, yield weights, etc... I did too, but couldn't find any. So I just bit the bullet and made the plunge back a few years ago when they were first coming out. There are many on these forums who seem to want to just bash the new technology products. I grew with 1000w HPS's for a while there too, and the heat was absolutely killing me in the summers, and I furthermore got scared of scaling up my grow to produce more (fear of LEO's and power companies working together to potentially monitor my electrical usage). I'm a legal grower, but in my area they are very hostile to growers and I want to reduce my chances as much as I can from LEO's. I didn't do side-by-side's for an audience to witness, but instead just spent some money and convinced myself. I'll keep on using my induction lights, and will buy more for my larger sealed grow.
Better control over my environment (less heat).
Longer lights that run cooler give me better light spread over my SCROG and I can run closer, translating to a carpet of buds and a more even canopy.
No more buying expensive bulbs every 3-6 months.
Slightly denser buds too, with good penetration (I say slightly as this is a subjective assessment and more of my opinion than a cold hard fact).
I hate spending the money on the pontoons though. They are so expensive. But I will do so if it will get me the better crop.
Best of luck to you all in your grows, and if anyone has anything to add concerning the addition of the pontoons (or less costly ways to get the same spectrum with a "pontoon alternative"), I'm all ears!
Econolux makes 4' T5HO High PAR tubes including an XR extended red ( ELPL-T5HO-XR), available in the USA from marigoldlighting. I think that may be a good low cost alternative to the IndaGro pontoons (LED I think?)
I'm happy with how they are working for me
sorry for the brief post but I stupidly put links to the websites in the post and it was kicked out by the system. Gotta get busy now with other things but I'll check back later
I'm happy with how they are working for me
sorry for the brief post but I stupidly put links to the websites in the post and it was kicked out by the system. Gotta get busy now with other things but I'll check back later
Econolux makes 4' T5HO High PAR tubes including an XR extended red ( ELPL-T5HO-XR), available in the USA from marigoldlighting. I think that may be a good low cost alternative to the IndaGro pontoons (LED I think?)
I'm happy with how they are working for me
sorry for the brief post but I stupidly put links to the websites in the post and it was kicked out by the system. Gotta get busy now with other things but I'll check back later
Just to add a few comments and resources.
MarigoldLighting, the US distributor is getting his business setup and much of the web site is still under construction. If you are looking for more detailed info on the Econolux induction or T5HO lamps I suggest looking at the CannaMedsGro website (the Hong Kong affiliate for Econolux).
Marigoldlighting does have a warehouse and staff in Wisconsin and is accepting and shipping orders...same products but no duties or international shipping- sooo much easier.
the picture in the previous post is a 2'x4' grow tent with six 3 gallon fabric pots filled with an organic mix under 6 Econolux FL, 3 Econolux VG, 2 Econolux XR and 1 ReptiSun T5HO tubes ( waiting for an Econolux UVA/UVB tube.. soon I hope) flowering a ChemDawg/Kush cross. I'm certainly no expert, but this simple organic grow with no cooling needed or CO2 enrichment provided has got very positive comments from experienced growers on the general good health of the plants, the short internode spaces and multiple bud sites.
Lumens is based around the visible light spectrum so is not really relevant to photosynth but rather the human eye, look into the PAR instead, theoretically induction lights are very good but seem to be really pricey, not trying to be bitchy if i sound like a dick x