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nice haul considering everything next time those buds will be rock solid was these autos or photoperiod if photo they seem to have finished fast don't no if incorrect nutes can cause thatYes, they are drying now.
Something I don't have a good understanding of yet is senescence in flowering cannabis – i.e. deterioration due to age. In my situation, this manifests as dying fan leaves, sugar leaves, and bracts. Next comes the mold and bud rot, because the fungus likes to get started on dead material. Factors affecting senescence... how long the plant was in veg before flip to flower, pot size, growing medium, the strain you are growing (re: size, nutrient needs, vigor), how much light the plant got during it's life, watering, and fertilizing. I.e. everythingThey never came back after I applied Flower girl. They just kept on dying.
As mentioned earlier at the stage your plants were in, it would have been hard to get them to come back. The leaves were so far gone that there is no return. What I look for is to slow down and stop the number of leaves that show the damage. Leaves that have already turned yellow and especially starting to show brown will stay that way.They never came back after I applied Flower girl. They just kept on dying.
Pick the line of fertilizers you want to use and read up on the schedule so that you feel comfortable using it. Feeling comfortable and having confidence with the brand, the method of applying the fertilizer and the scheduling is a big step towards success.... will follow a nute schedule for the next attempt.
Interesting is that the senescence is accepted on these plants which are annuals and not perennials. On the perennials it is part of the sequence the plant goes through when it shuts down for the season. Then in the spring it comes back.Something I don't have a good understanding of yet is senescence in flowering cannabis – i.e. deterioration due to age. In my situation, this manifests as dying fan leaves, sugar leaves, and bracts.
I understand where you are coming from with that. It seems like the way to go is to work with each point and figure out how it plays in the grand scheme.I tend to let plants stay in veg a long time, partly because of all the strains I am growing and experimenting with. I feel like if the overall life span is kept shorter, and pot size bigger, the outcome will be much better.
Molds, fungus, mildews are all related but still different. I believe that they are problems that can be avoided; just have to figure out what and how to avoid them.Next comes the mold and bud rot, because the fungus likes to get started on dead material.
Agreed. There is some point, though, where they begin to die. In a normal grow, this is when the flowers reach a specific maturity, and of course based on a lot of factors as I mentioned. The trick is to harvest successfully before the dying process brings on fungus and bugs.If we can figure out why our Cannabis plants, which are annuals, are deteriorating it will go a long way towards keeping them healthy right up to harvest.
I agree totally; however, some strains and phenos just defy belief in this area, like the Blueberry I'm flowering right now... just posted a reply about it... pics coming soon. Well, I shouldn't count my buds before they hatch... harvest is weeks away. So far, so good!The one big thing I am looking at lately is the pot size and how long the plant has been in that pot. The longer the plant has been in the pot the larger the root mass and the larger and healthier the leaves. Eventually it becomes 'root bound' and then the problems start to show.
Put the plant into a larger container and with the additional soil and the roots start to explore again and the plant starts to return back to fast growth.
Agreed, but if it's during the onset of senescence, then I view it as someone inevitable. I see the onset of senescence being the end of the harvest window. If you're in the window, all is good. BUT... have the trichomes reached their desired peak? And that's the purpose of my quest... find strains that work for my climate, which have a reasonable harvest window that will result in the desired trichome ripeness.Molds, fungus, mildews are all related but still different. I believe that they are problems that can be avoided; just have to figure out what and how to avoid them.
OK, so this gets a little tricky. Yes, I'm seeing some minor amounts of bud rot BEFORE the harvest window, and those are usually easily visible and maybe a small bud or two are brown w/ bud rot and clipped off. Then when the harvest window has passed, I see bud rot starting to develop deep inside buds. Mind you, they are perfectly nice looking buds on the outside.Some molds show up on dead material as part of the decomposition process. On the other hand it seems that bud rot shows up in healthy buds and slowly kills that part of the plant.
This is where I'm interested in checking out the Jadam or possibly the LAB (lactic acid bascillus) serum. I use peroxide solution, but I see it as sort of a last-resort/band-aide, rather than treating the source of the problem.Powdery Mildew shows up on healthy leaves and lives off what is in those leaves until the leaf dies which also kills that batch of mildew. But before it dies it has sent spores out to infect the nearby leaves. Based on what I keep reading on some of these problems it seems that they started weeks and up to two months before we see the problems.