Humidity pack question

stem snapping was an old school idea that predates the use of hygrometers. it has some merit still but is super subjective and dependent on the growers previous experience.
 
Definitely a hard lesson learned guys. Since I've amended my soil, but I'm thinking now my soil is to hot!
I sowed top dressing about 3 and half weeks ago. Let it grow for little over a week and then cut. In all I waited 3 weeks until I tried to replant back into the soil and it didn't work. I created a small pocket in the sip bucket and pots. Direct planted after sprouted along dynomyco.. All the seeds shot up well, but by time they all got to about 3in, they just stopped growing.

Reading a bit more up on re amendeding, some said its good idea to give a flush after u re amend to kick start it and then wait the 2 weeks before planting again. The seeds were 6 autos. They're toast now. I gave a good flush about a week ago now, until about 1lt came into sip resavouir.
The soil is very dark in colour.

Is this a sign of to much nitrogen or some other amendments?
I had the seedlings covered with plastic cup, had them misted so it was nice and humid. Temps in the tent during lights on 26-29..lights off it wud dip to around 24/25..

I added a heat mat that brings it up to these targets. I believe tho I need temps a bit higher so maybe in new Yr il get another heat mat.

What I've been doing now is trying to see when the soil is ready for planting again. Not wanting to waste any more good seeds I've just bought. I popped around a dozen bag seed that I had in the fridge. I'm currently bringing them on in solo cups. Gonna plant them into the freshly amended soil in a week or so. At least then il have an idea of I can then start to germinate the next round.
It's apple fritter, so I really don't wanna put them into a bad environment.

I did add about 30% perlite to this mix, but it's been a week now since i flushed and the buckets to light still feel heavish, doesn't feel like much water has evaporated. Soil maybe to heavy, or not porse enough?

I also had thrips and gants amd some fruit fly as well. I released 2 different types of predatory mites into the soil just over a week ago and they have done an amazing job already. Only the odd fly now flying about compared to many many more of the fucjers before.
I also notice it when I scrape back the soil, used to see many more than I do now.
I'm was considering just trashing the soil after the rage at the autos not taking. But now that I'm getting the thrips under control it wud be a shame to have to ditch the whole lot. Gonna order a soil test kit. It'll gimme an idea for N, P, k at least.

Any suggestions guys?

Thanks in advance
 
gazmufc said:
The soil is very dark in colour.
Is this a sign of to much nitrogen or some other amendments?
Click to expand...
It is too much water in the soil will often make it look dark. Very little to do with the amount or type of nutrient.

I had the seedlings covered with plastic cup, had them misted so it was nice and humid.
Click to expand...
The usual recommendation is to provide humidity to cuttings that have not yet grown roots. But if these are seedlings then it is rarely necessary to put a humidity dome over them.

gazmufc said:
I added a heat mat that brings it up to these targets.
Click to expand...
I have noticed that any container of soil, especially small seedling sized containers, will come up to same temperature as the air. During the lights on period the seedlings might be OK without the heat mat. Maybe using a timer for the heat mat so it will warm up a bit during the dark period.

I set my timer so the mat came on for 30 to 40 minutes, then off for an hour or so, and back on for 30 to 40 minutes and keep repeating until lights on.

gazmufc said:
but it's been a week now since i flushed and the buckets to light still feel heavish, doesn't feel like much water has evaporated. Soil maybe to heavy, or not porse enough?
Click to expand...
The soil will take a long time to dry out. Only so much evaporation will take place. It is when there are plants in the soil that it dries out real fast. The plant will transpire or give off a lot of water as it gets larger. Think of the growers that are watering their plants every other day or so while in the vegetation stage but as the same plant enters into flowering they are watering more often and with larger amounts. In full flower they can be watering twice a day.

Good luck.
 
SmokingWings said:
It is too much water in the soil will often make it look dark. Very little to do with the amount or type of nutrient.


The usual recommendation is to provide humidity to cuttings that have not yet grown roots. But if these are seedlings then it is rarely necessary to put a humidity dome over them.


I have noticed that any container of soil, especially small seedling sized containers, will come up to same temperature as the air. During the lights on period the seedlings might be OK without the heat mat. Maybe using a timer for the heat mat so it will warm up a bit during the dark period.

I set my timer so the mat came on for 30 to 40 minutes, then off for an hour or so, and back on for 30 to 40 minutes and keep repeating until lights on.


The soil will take a long time to dry out. Only so much evaporation will take place. It is when there are plants in the soil that it dries out real fast. The plant will transpire or give off a lot of water as it gets larger. Think of the growers that are watering their plants every other day or so while in the vegetation stage but as the same plant enters into flowering they are watering more often and with larger amounts. In full flower they can be watering twice a day.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Hey wings

Yeah I've just been leaving my heat mat on 24/7..its pretty cold here in Ireland right now. Would u flush again or just go ahead and plant one of the test plants when they're ready?
I will take the little domes off. The tents rh is sitting about 70 with out adding a humidifier.
 
If you're planting a seed into not fully cooked soil, it can be too hot for them as you're seeing. I like to carve out a planting hole right in the middle and put old, used soil in that pocket which provides a pretty neutral space for the seedling to sprout into and then its roots can explore the more robust soil when it's ready and has grown a bit.
 
gazmufc said:
Temps in the tent during lights on 26-29..lights off it wud dip to around 24/25..
Click to expand...
Yeah I've just been leaving my heat mat on 24/7..its pretty cold here in Ireland right now.
Click to expand...
Those temps in Celsius come out to 'lights on' temps of 80F and 'lights off' of about 75F. The lights off temperatures seem warm which is why I do not think you need to keep a heat mat going all the time. Thinking about it the usual outdoor soil temperatures are about 60F (maybe 70F at the very surface when the sun is shining) in the early summer when many gardeners are planting their vegetable and flower seeds.

Going to have to find the happy level where it all fits together.
 
SmokingWings said:
Those temps in Celsius come out to 'lights on' temps of 80F and 'lights off' of about 75F. The lights off temperatures seem warm which is why I do not think you need to keep a heat mat going all the time. Thinking about it the usual outdoor soil temperatures are about 60F (maybe 70F at the very surface when the sun is shining) in the early summer when many gardeners are planting their vegetable and flower seeds.

Going to have to find the happy level where it all fits together.
Click to expand...
OK wings I see what ya mean. I misunderstood, I thought ya didn't want much temp swings in early seedling stage. I thought warm and humid. I will turn the mat off at nte now. Il have to get another plug timer.

What kinda mix do u use for seedling in solo cup? I've been trying different brand that are labbled for seedling, but my seedling rarely start good and get to a decent growth after a week or so.
 
gazmufc said:
What kinda mix do u use for seedling in solo cup? I've been trying different brand that are labbled for seedling,
Click to expand...
It does not matter whether I am starting from seed or trying to get a cutting to grow roots. I use the same soil that the plant will grow in for the rest of its time on this planet. I have not noticed any real advantage to buying a special "seed starting soil"; certainly not enough of an advantage to justify the extra costs.

but my seedling rarely start good and get to a decent growth after a week or so.
Click to expand...
More important is the environment in the grow area. Right temperatures, humidity and light are at the top.

For me, my most successful time for getting cuttings to develop roots is from mid February to mid June. Has to be something with the seasons changing outside. I have not started any Marijuana seeds in 2 years but next month I will be trying some seeds of new strain I received as a gift about 2 weeks ago.
 
Azimuth said:
If you're planting a seed into not fully cooked soil, it can be too hot for them as you're seeing. I like to carve out a planting hole right in the middle and put old, used soil in that pocket which provides a pretty neutral space for the seedling to sprout into and then its roots can explore the more robust soil when it's ready and has grown a bit.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's what it felt like. Tho I waited for over 2 weeks before planting into. A figured that wud be OK. It will be another 2/3 weeks before I'm planing next time into it. I'm really hoping it will be cooked by then. That's why I've got 12 tester seedlings before I try to put the apple fritter seeds into it. Fingers crossed 🤞.
 
Back
Top Bottom