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OK - haven’t made it over there yet . I would think it’d be more comfortable under those 5500k, but I have no idea why I would think that - now that I’ve said it. I did feel like one of the things that would stress out the one i had outside, was sudden pronounced changes in environmental conditions. So maybe it’s just not so adaptable, as a strain, and loses metabolic equilibrium easily, or something like that. I’m totally speculating here. I got rusty spots on that one but that was due to absolutely starving it out at the very worst time (not on purpose of course!) so we can’t really compare those events in any useful way. What do rusty spots mean - on all those deficiency charts? Usually calcium, right? SO it’s possible in theory that the heightened demand under the QBs couple lead to there suddenly not being enough in the nutes. Hell, maybe it’s actually that the plant metabolism is working even better under the QBs, faster or something, and therefore demanding more from the inputs.I'll get some pics up tomorrow. And I've got the QB's turned all the way down, but mine are 5500K, I'm sure that makes a difference.
You didn't asked me but evs...plants moved under QBs or strips from other lighting types often show deficiencies. I would up the nutes and see how they go. Maybe a bit of Epsom salt as well.Amy, I wanted to ask you a question about the Candida. You remember that one I had going? You told me to pull it and put under fluorescents. She was great and then I put her back under the 5500K QB's. It's been a few day and now many of the uppers are getting yellow spots and such. You think it's CalMag def.
Recap. Plants were healthy happy. Put them in tent under QB's. 3-4 days later they've got yellow spots on the leaves. No significant change in feed. Fed once before going in to tent and once after.
Your thoughts?
Lactobacillus Serum
This is the workhorse of the beneficial bacteria we’ll be discussing here. We use it for everything! Foul odors, clogged drains, cheaper pig/chicken/etc farming, aquaculture, the applications are amazingly diverse. Learn how to make and use this and you will have a powerful tool in your farming arsenal.
How to Make:
Get container, fill halfway with rice-wash. Rice wash is the water leftover when you rinse fresh rice. For example, go buy rice, whatever kind, bring it home, put it in a pot with warm water, swirl it a bit and then drain the [now milky colored] water. The water is now a rich source of carbohydrates. In this step, you can substitute rice with another carbohydrate source if you don’t have rice, as long as it is complex (don’t use simple carbohydrates like sugar, honey, syrup, molasses, etc). You can use wheat, barley, kinoa, other carbohydrates as the base to make your carbohydrate wash. This wash will attract microbes from the air, among them lacto bacilli.
Cover loosely and let stand for a couple days to a week
When is it done? When you see a light film on top (molds) and it smells a little sour and forms 3 layers. This is indicating the rice wash is infected with various microbes. This happens more quickly in warm temperatures because microbes are more active. Thus it is all relative since we don’t do this in controlled laboratory conditions.
The layers are distinct
Top layer: floating carbohydrates leftover from fermentation and possibly molds
Middle layer: Lactic Acid and other bacteria (cheese buffs will recognize this as a makeshift “rennet”). We will use this layer.
Bottom layer: Starch, byproduct of fermentation
Extract the middle layer using a siphon. This layer contains the highest concentration of lactic acid bacteria and lowest concentration of the unneeded byproducts
Get a new container, larger than the first. Take the extracted serum from the last step and mix it with 10 parts milk. By saturating with milk (lactose), we dissuade other microbes from proliferating, leaving L. bacilli. E.G. if you have 1cup of the serum, mix it with 10cups milk.
TIP: The best milk to use in unpasteurized natural milk. However, any milk will do, even powdered milk. In our experience, the best is unpasteurized natural but just use what is available. We just want to saturate with lactose to promote L. bacilli bacteria.
You want to keep this stage anaerobic as much as possible. You can use something like rice bran, barley bran, wheat bran, etc sprinkled on top of the milk. I use a sealed container with a one-way valve. Note: Beware of bubbling during this phase. It can lead to overflows if you filled to near the top. It can go through the one-way valves so keep an eye on it and don’t do this step around nice things.
After about 1 week (temp dependent), you’ll see curds (made of carbohydrate, protein, and fat) on top of the milk. The water below will be yellow colored – this is whey, enriched with lactic acid bacteria from the fermentation of the milk.
NOTE: Microbes like L. bacilli are more active in warmer temperatures. The curds you see are a byproduct of the fermentation process. Fermentation is generally associated with microbial processes under anaerobic(no oxygen) conditions. Now, L. bacilli is a facultative anaerobe, that is it can live and work with or without oxygen, but less competition in anaerobic conditions.
The water below(whey+lacto) is the good stuff. You want to extract this. You can either skim the curds off the top, pour through a strainer, or whatever other methods to accomplish that
NOTE: Remember the curds, or byproduct of milk fermentation by L. bacilli, are great food. They are full of beneficial microbes like L. bacilli. Feed the curds to the soil, compost pile, plants, animals, humans – whoever wants them! They are full of good nutrients/microbes. No waste in natural farming.
To preserve at room temperature, add an equal part sugar/molasses to the serum. So, if you have 1L of serum, add 1kilo sugar or 1L molasses. Otherwise store in fridge to keep.
Example Recipe:
1 L rice wash
add 10L Milk
After rice wash and milk remove curds – around 1L
Left with 10L pure LAB (lactic acid bacteria)
add 10kg sugar or 10L molasses
= 20 L stabilized lactic acid bacteria serum
What to Use it for and How
Before using, first mix 1:20 with water. 1 part serum to 20 parts water. Then follow instructions below:
Odor Reducer:
Add mixture to animal’s water at 2tbsp/L. You can mix it more or less, there are no rules here, just how we typically do it.
Apply to places where there is odor buildup. The harmless bacteria “eat” the odor causing germs and the smell is gone!
Indoors: reduces foul odors, including animals like cats, dogs, mice, other pets. Stinky shoes? Wet clothes from being outside? Gym clothes that haven’t made it to the wash yet? Smoker in the house? Kill these nasty smells!
Outside: use to control odor in pens – pigs, cows, chickens. In barns, around the yard, etc
Household use:
Clear clogged drains. A few tbsp to 1L works well. For semi-clogged drains (like kitchen sink draining progressively slower), use at night and allow at least the night for microbes to work.
Keep septic clear. Tired of having your septic system drained? Add lacto! Depending on size of your system, pour a few tbsp. to a few L into the toilet every few months.
Houseplants: Mix 2-3tbsp per 1L water and use that to water them.
Animal Bedding:
Mix 2tbsp to 1L water. Mix with animal bedding to reduce smell and increase longevity. In natural pig farming we use at least 1 yard deep of bedding so there is plenty of space for microbes to work. Bedding consists of organic substrate like rice hulls, wood chips, sawdust, wood shavings, shredded corn cob, any other high cellulose, high lignin material. Natural pig farming is a future topic on this site. Spray until bedding is slightly damp but not wet. How much you spray really depends on your climate. If you are in a very dry climate you can spray a little more and mix in evenly. Wetter (more humid) climates use a bit less. Mix into the bedding evenly where necessary (in many cases, like with pigs and chickens, they’ll mix it themselves). How much you use is all relative. These guidelines are for pigs and chickens. More extreme smells, just use more! Want to spray less often, use more! As we notice a smell we spray. Thus, as pigs grow bigger, make more poop, we spray more often! Dosage/frequency is relative and will depend on your situation.
Animals – Digestive/Growth Aid:
Mix 2tbsp to 1L water, then add that mixture to animal’s water at 2tbsp/L(so the animal’s water contains little less than a quarter tsp/L of lacto serum). But this is very flexible. The Lacto serum is not harmful, so its just about adding enough to be effective, without wasting it.
Improve digestive efficiency in humans and animals alike:
Improves how you feel after meals, particularly meals rich in meats. It’s awesome. After eating, mix 1-2tbsp lacto with a cup of water and drink that. Makes you feel so much better after! Lessens that afternoon lull, gives you more energy!
Aids digestion in animals. This is critical. You can raise animals on less food, and see the same and greater growth rates. Amazing results in pigs . The principal is that the microorganisms help digest the food coming in – better digestibility means better nutrient absorption. Save on feeds, better feed to growth conversion ratio!
TIP: If you really want to boost growth, mix 2tbsp to 1L water and soak the food in this solution for a few hours to a few days. Food is pre-digested when animals eat it, AWESOME!
Great results in livestock and poultry.
Plants – Growth Aid:
When added to water for plants, nutrient uptake efficiency is increased, which increases growth!
Improves growth of plants when applied as foliar spray and soil drench. Improves their efficiency in uptaking nutrients so naturally, growth is enhanced. With the use of these microorganisms, the nutrients you spray or drench to feed your plants become more bio-available and easily absorbable by the plants. Technically, you can say that plants do not use organic nutrients directly. Microorganisms convert organic nutrients to their inorganic constituents which the plants utilize. Utilizing microbes, you will notice better plant growth and health.
Disease Resistance:
This is a consequence of the increased efficiency of nutrients. More nutrients available at smaller metabolic cost.
Lacto suppresses harmful bacteria in food/water that animals consume, enhances their gut flora so that line of defense is working optimally, etc.
Aid Compost:
Mix 2tbsp/L and spray on compost pile to improve decomposition. This is a huge topic that will be expanded upon in another post.
Aid Organic Fertilizer:
Add 1-2tbsp per gallon water-nutrient solution. Lacto consumes organic nutrients making them bio-available to plant roots.
Plants don’t use organic fertilizer! Microbes break it down to inorganic constituents, and plants take those up. This product makes that process more efficient.
Aquaculture:
Lacto works in aquaculture just fine if you don’t have BIM available. Add lacto at roughly 1L per 700m3 of fish-containing water. Example: you have a pond that averages 20m wide by 30m long by 2m deep. So, 20 x 30 x 2 = 1200m3. In this case you would add roughly 1L of BIM or Lacto
Microbes digest fish wastes, cleaning up water and improving water quality.
Allows fish to grow larger due to digestive efficiency
Allows higher population of fish in the same amount of water! Literally, increases the carrying capacity of your body of water! This is awesome for aquaculture setups
Original website
Just a quick note for those like @Amy Gardner, who make and use LABS. After your first batch, you can speed up the process by for going the rice wash. Add a table spoon of your previous batch to a cup of water and add that to a quart of milk and in about 4 days you will be ready to remove the cheese and strain the next batch.
The purpose of the rice wash is to collect free range LB from the air, if you already have the serum, no need to collect new LB from the air.
buddy! And yes - I thought you’d pick that one up!Lovely updates Amy! Excellent extreme leaf tucking .
You didn't asked me but evs...plants moved under QBs or strips from other lighting types often show deficiencies. I would up the nutes and see how they go. Maybe a bit of Epsom salt as well.
This takes even longer than that calcium from eggshells-in-vinegar routine . Plan ahead!This below are a batch I made last year that is nearly ready...
Is that what you're keeping or throwing away?Then strain out or siphon out the whey - the yellow clearish liquid in the middle.
tha ambiguity of languageThis takes even longer than that calcium from eggshells-in-vinegar routine . Plan ahead!
So maybe it wasnt such a great tutorial! We’re keeping the whey With the final photo that would be obvious maybe... i nw its here somewhere!Is that what you're keeping or throwing away?
That's not the ambiguous part! There's nothing ambiguous about: "This below are a batch I made last year that is nearly ready..."tha ambiguity of language
It's still a great tutorial!So maybe it wasnt such a great tutorial!
I know that feeling. I now try to just read other people's posts while high and then reply or post the next day. Doesn't always work for me, but I try. Is this your first Critical Mass? Yesterday I choose Critical Mass Auto as part of my seed winning from Dope Seeds. I've never tried it before, but have heard many goods things about the strain.Man, I’m raving tho’... I’m really quite high right now! This Critical Mass is curing pretty nicely... and this has taken me like a year to type out
Bookmarked!DIY Lactobacillus Serum (LABs)
plants are gorgeous! You're doing an amazing job on the Bubba, she looks nice and happy
Yes! - I am planning to do this exactly. I am going to mix some through my outdoor HBB raised bed soil as well. That’s a mixture of local soil (dirt and clay), my previous inputs from 2 seasons ago (which did include a little bit of coco) and now the custom HBB amendment. I think it will benefit from a little coco in the mix as well.Next time you mix your HB soil remove about 1/3 of the peat and replace it with pre washed coco, amend and cook as normal. I think you'll like the results!
It is actually. I’m warming to it. I have a couple of friends who really like it. I let it go too long and it still tastes ‘overripe’ to me. I don’t even know how to explain that! I have grown it’s progeny before though, the first CBD plant I grew was CBD Critical Cure and CM is one of the parents. Plus, I grew a ‘Money Bush’ which is CM x Afghani and to be honest this CM i have now is totally completely different to that in terp profile and effect. I’ll be curious to see the auto version grow out for you. These Coco autos I have going are from Dope seeds and they seem pretty good ‘stock’.your first Critical Mass?