How to grow in Coco: Feed schedule

Don't stress. Just don't allow the coco to dry out. When you get to the last 10-7days just give water. A little run off is enough. Too much in a hand fed run to waste runs the risk of bud rot if too much humidity rises in the room. And the bud rot starts internally not can be tricky to spit as a novice. Around 3litres of liquid will be good for 20litre pots if you are feeding once by hand, providing plants are established. Start with less and build it up. Remember give nutrient daily and only give water at the end.
 
Cultivator said:
Don't stress. Just don't allow the coco to dry out. When you get to the last 10-7days just give water. A little run off is enough. Too much in a hand fed run to waste runs the risk of bud rot if too much humidity rises in the room. And the bud rot starts internally not can be tricky to spit as a novice. Around 3litres of liquid will be good for 20litre pots if you are feeding once by hand, providing plants are established. Start with less and build it up. Remember give nutrient daily and only give water at the end.
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Thanks a lot appreciate it.
I asked a question a few posts up about my water being 0.4 out of the tap. Could you have a read please mate .
 
Cultivator said:
Don't stress. Just don't allow the coco to dry out. When you get to the last 10-7days just give water. A little run off is enough. Too much in a hand fed run to waste runs the risk of bud rot if too much humidity rises in the room. And the bud rot starts internally not can be tricky to spit as a novice. Around 3litres of liquid will be good for 20litre pots if you are feeding once by hand, providing plants are established. Start with less and build it up. Remember give nutrient daily and only give water at the end.
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Good to see you cult. I’m sure you don’t remember but you were a big influence on my growing techniques and even helped me with problems in my room when I started out back in 2013. Much appreciated. Glad to see you’re still around mate.
 
I'm sorry I'm not around much these days and so many unanswered questions.

As for the 0.4ec water, you should be able to skip on calmag if not growing under led. If you are just bump ec up to 0.5ec with calmag.

This thread was designed to get you started as new growers. Of course as you become more advanced there are more advanced techniques. Just never let your oco dry out completely and you be good.
 
Cultivator said:
I'm sorry I'm not around much these days and so many unanswered questions.

As for the 0.4ec water, you should be able to skip on calmag if not growing under led. If you are just bump ec up to 0.5ec with calmag.

This thread was designed to get you started as new growers. Of course as you become more advanced there are more advanced techniques. Just never let your oco dry out completely and you be good.
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I cannot get my head around this. Must of read it a 1000 times . If you say first transplant at 500ppm 1.0 ec , and my tap water is 0.3/4 am I finishing at 1.0 ec or 1.3/4 ?
thanks anyone that can clear this up .

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If your staring water is good at 0.3-0.4ec then finish at 1.0ec on starting.

I run my schedules of starting at 0.3-0.4ec. But some use ro water and add calmag to somewhere in that level. Total nutrient shouldn't really get higher than 1.8ec at any point if running ro water or have a starting water of 0.3-0.4ec (150-200ppm).
 
.3/4 isn't a thing. Do you mean .750ec? Is that well water with a softener or city water?
 
0.3-0.4 ec absolutely is a thing. Are you getting confused with ppm? Ppm aren't a unit that's used outside of North America very often.
 
Lol yes i know .3ec and .4 ec is a thing....he said .3/4 in the us we call that a fraction and that fraction equals .75ec but it could be confused with .3 to .4
 
If you dont have RO after that softener no amount of UV in the world will strip the NA. Your plants will suck up NA before any other nute and will basically dry it from the inside out.
 
Just to reiterate there is no such thing as “point three quarter”.
 
MarshallB said:
If you dont have RO after that softener no amount of UV in the world will strip the NA. Your plants will suck up NA before any other nute and will basically dry it from the inside out.
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This was my response camden because you said you had well water with a UV filter putting out .7ec. Im not sure why you deleted that post. Im only trying to help you because I presumed you had well water when you said you had a high starting ec water. I too have high ec water and learned about Na in water the hard way. Pre softener I have 1226ec, coming from the ground basically. After the softener it is somewhere around 700-850. I have had to install a RO filter and now my water is 26ec and the plants get what they need. If you are giving them softened water, thats a whole lot of sodium and I could be wrong on this one but I think sodium is a problem if its over 5ppm’s worth. If your UV filter is part of one of those fancy 8+ stage RO filter, your high ec is obviously coming from the mineral filter replacing cal and mag and whatever else. If thats your case then please disregard, I was only trying to keep you out of the Na problem...it sucks. It ends up looking like salt build up and you get yellow tips and as a new grower looking for help you will get lots of responses like “your over feeding”, “your ph is bad” all just making the real problem harder to find. Thats why its also important to write values correct. You had the responders thinking you had an ec of .3 to .4, which would be great and line up with this regimen amazingly, but no you have 700ec. Hope this system works great for you! Its definitely giving me better results than any other method I’ve tried so far
 
Nm camden I see you were answering the question I had for JimmyV
 
Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to cultivators feeding schedule so I’m meaning my ec flashes 0.3 and 0.4 ec
MarshallB said:
.3/4 isn't a thing. Do you mean .750ec? Is that well water with a softener or city water?
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meant 0.3 and 0.4 ec sorry was referring to cultivators schedule in the picture I posted where he 0.3 ec
 
Cultivator said:
If your staring water is good at 0.3-0.4ec then finish at 1.0ec on starting.

I run my schedules of starting at 0.3-0.4ec. But some use ro water and add calmag to somewhere in that level. Total nutrient shouldn't really get higher than 1.8ec at any point if running ro water or have a starting water of 0.3-0.4ec (150-200ppm).
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Thank you
 
JimmyVentura said:
Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to cultivators feeding schedule so I’m meaning my ec flashes 0.3 and 0.4 ec

meant 0.3 and 0.4 ec sorry was referring to cultivators schedule in the picture I posted where he 0.3 ec
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Lol, Im sorry, it was totally me that confused things. Everybody else was right there with you. Sorry contributing nonsense to this great thread too
 
Cultivator said:
I never follow bottles advice on base nutrients. I always go off the EC/ppm once the nutes are mixed. Ive grown thousands of plants in coco and i still play around from time to time but the key things are:

Feed often
Keep EC/PPM in a good range
Keep PH stable
REMEMBER ITS HYDROPONIC NOT SOIL.

I have loads smaller grows journalled with small and large plants. So feel free to look through them.

The AN 3 part PH Perfect is a good base nutrient when used correctly though.

Sent from my SM-G925F using 420 Magazine Mobile App
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Hi I’m just switching to use coco on my 2nd transplant clones. I’m using AN iguana juice/ancient earth/sensisym/ Cannazym/great white/calmagxtra. I always ph adjust my water to 6.0 and everything has been going fine in pro mix BX. Can I continue to do the same nutrient solution or do you think I will run into problems? Right now my ppms are from 640-690 on their 9th day since rooted and plants are looking

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