How is my DIY light build?

[Edzzed]

I went with strips instead of cobs. Cheaper to replace a strip if one burns out than a cob. I also used two drivers in case one goes out. I still have 1/2 my lights going till I can get a replacement shipped to me. It is more important than ever now since we can't just drive down to the USA. Funny though, We can fly down and back home but you cannot fly here. Says me, Someone is lying when they say Canada wants to open the borders.

 

[VetSmoke85]

There's the frame built and strips mounted and wired. Can you see where I lost concentration and somehow mounted one strip totally wonky? That thermal tape is sticky stuff. Ha ha. Oh well I can live with it.

n

 

[Edzzed]

There's the frame built and strips mounted and wired. Can you see where I lost concentration and somehow mounted one strip totally wonky? That thermal tape is sticky stuff. Ha ha. Oh well I can live with it.

If it works, It works. The end result is all that matters. I used Costco cookie sheets on my lights. The amusing thing is the seller had a similar pic but the big difference was in wiring. I punched holes in the sheets so they did not go up and over the cookie pan lips. I sent a pic to the seller and suggested my way was a better way of wiring it.

 

[bluter]

Just in the process of building mine now. Will share with you once I'm done. @bluter I wonder if you can confirm something for me? There is no PEC wire on the driver input and nowhere to attach one. On the label it says case grounded. I'm guessing this means it is Class II and doesn't require a PEC to be connected?

not sure i follow. it is case grounded.

input is 3 wire, output is 2. pwn - i/o dimming is 2 if your driver is equipped. never seen a driver with mark higher than class 2. they don't rate the ones that'll kill you ... if it isn't marked on the case ...

 

[bluter]

There's the frame built and strips mounted and wired. Can you see where I lost concentration and somehow mounted one strip totally wonky? That thermal tape is sticky stuff. Ha ha. Oh well I can live with it.

n

mount the strips to some aluminum U-channel for great heat sinking. i'd get a screw or two to hold the strips down. thermal tape fails over time. paste is messy as crap but i prefer it. tape is ok but don't count on it to hold stuff.

 

[bluter]

further to the safety issue -- i run an inline fuse on all my ac inputs.. will protect the driver in an extreme surge, and will snap down if there is an internal fail causing an indiscriminate pull.

 

[VetSmoke85]

not sure i follow. it is case grounded.

input is 3 wire, output is 2. pwn - i/o dimming is 2 if your driver is equipped. never seen a driver with mark higher than class 2. they don't rate the ones that'll kill you ... if it isn't marked on the case ...

Input only has 2 wires. Output 2. It's an ELG-150-C700A.

 

[VetSmoke85]

mount the strips to some aluminum U-channel for great heat sinking. i'd get a screw or two to hold the strips down. thermal tape fails over time. paste is messy as crap but i prefer it. tape is ok but don't count on it to hold stuff.

I'd read these strips driven at nominal current don't need a heatsink so built it without. We'll see how that goes. If the tape starts to loosen it's grip at least I'll be able to straighten that wonky strip and then screw them down. It's like cement right now. Thanks for the tips. Managed to complete the wiring last night and turn it on. All worked which is a good start and F-me it's bright. Seems brighter than my 65W HLG board.

 

[bluter]

Input only has 2 wires. Output 2. It's an ELG-150-C700A.

have a pic ? datasheet i have for the driver has it three wire. dunno what you have
if it's metal case it will be internal ground.

edit : is it a blank / or ab type ? still won't matter it will have a case ground.

 

[VetSmoke85]

have a pic ? datasheet i have for the driver has it three wire. dunno what you have
if it's metal case it will be internal ground.

edit : is it a blank / or ab type ? still won't matter it will have a case ground.

Hope that helps. Only 2 wires in for sure. On the left it says case grounded. It's the A type. Just an added note I'm in the UK with a 230V AC mains supply.

 

[bluter]

you got the most basic driver.
the dimming is on board, adjusted by a screw. it's meant to be set at a safe maximum and left. you then adjust intensity by raising and lowering the light like a standard fixture. you might have to play around with it a bit to get what you want.

it's a two wire driver as it doesn't have the output that requires the extra. your drivers are a little different in the uk. not hugely, but enough that it makes bit of a separate market than north america or the rest of europe. over here that driver is available as both 2 and 3 wire input. i only ever built them with 3, it won't make a difference in the build. you should be fine.

edit: it is technically higher than class 2. it does not carry equivalent north american classification, individual components will be rated, but not the driver itself.

 

[idf420]

the current will float. you have a constant voltage driver.

edit: it's gonna depend on the number of cobs you run. you have to run enough that it pulls the full amperage from the driver, without having too many, which results in nothing happening. at that point, and that point only, will it kick in to constant current, you have to have everything matched. this is different to a constant current build.

i'd start with learning the definitions of amperage, voltage, current, and watts. they are all different, they all come in to play, understanding them will clear up what you are trying to figure out.

would also recommend a strip light if you can get strips that will match up nice. in most builds you would start with what you want for emitters, which would dictate the power requirements, which would determine the driver. it's harder doing it in reverse.

i didn't run the math on the cob you were looking at. i'll have a peak tonight to make sure. i don't think that driver will fire that cob.

i did some digging myself since i didn't understand how to read the data sheets correctly.. and your are right sir.
my driver will kick in to CC mode only when i meet the requirements, thanks for the help!

so i've decided that for right now i will stick to what i got and try to work around it since i already started my grow.
will defiantly build a bar type of led light for the next grow.

 

[bluter]

i did some digging myself since i didn't understand how to read the data sheets correctly.. and your are right sir.
my driver will kick in to CC mode only when i meet the requirements, thanks for the help!

so i've decided that for right now i will stick to what i got and try to work around it since i already started my grow.
will defiantly build a bar type of led light for the next grow.

there's gotta be something that works with it. it's not a huge driver. just haven't figured the match.

 

[VetSmoke85]

you got the most basic driver.
the dimming is on board, adjusted by a screw. it's meant to be set at a safe maximum and left. you then adjust intensity by raising and lowering the light like a standard fixture. you might have to play around with it a bit to get what you want.

it's a two wire driver as it doesn't have the output that requires the extra. your drivers are a little different in the uk. not hugely, but enough that it makes bit of a separate market than north america or the rest of europe. over here that driver is available as both 2 and 3 wire input. i only ever built them with 3, it won't make a difference in the build. you should be fine.

edit: it is technically higher than class 2. it does not carry equivalent north american classification, individual components will be rated, but not the driver itself.

Cheap and cheerful Well it will be set at the lowest setting of 350mA which is the LED strips nominal current. Should kick out around 55W at that with 8 strips. It's going to be put in the top of a 90cm tall DIY tent and have a few clones in 2L pots put under it for flowering.

 

[bluter]

I'd read these strips driven at nominal current don't need a heatsink so built it without.

they will fail earlier without. the cookie sheet is frankly a good idea even. you're relying on passive air cooling, with the U channel you get both heat transfer cooling and passive air. it's not a big enough rig to be massively worried, but it may get stressed depending on the rest of the environment it works in.

Cheap and cheerful

elg's are a good driver. you'll find more of them in commercial apps than hlg's.

 

[idf420]

Cheap and cheerful Well it will be set at the lowest setting of 350mA which is the LED strips nominal current. Should kick out around 55W at that with 8 strips. It's going to be put in the top of a 90cm tall DIY tent and have a few clones in 2L pots put under it for flowering.

Hi man!
your grow size is almost identical to mine so may be you can help out with a few questions?

is 55w will be enough for this grow size? (planning on 1plant of course)
and at what height will your light be at early stages?

 

[VetSmoke85]

Hi man!
your grow size is almost identical to mine so may be you can help out with a few questions?

is 55w will be enough for this grow size? (planning on 1plant of course)
and at what height will your light be at early stages?

From my understanding you want to aim for 30W per square ft of canopy. My flower tent base is 30x60 so approx. 2 Sq ft. My carbon filter takes up a bit of space so I doubt I'll have much growing directly under it so I reckon what I have planned will be enough. Not sure I'll adjust the height really as I'll be putting clones in to flower once they're ready. I have another cabinet that is 42x57x64 and have a 65W HLG board in there. I've done a few grows in and it's been more than enough light. I squeezed 3 autos in there on the run before my current grow Got close to 5oz out of it. That one is severely height limited so always kept the board right at the top of the cabinet. That light has a dimmer that I adjust through the grow. Going forward that cabinet is being used for a mother and clones. That's the plan anyway.

 

[Edzzed]

mount the strips to some aluminum U-channel for great heat sinking. i'd get a screw or two to hold the strips down. thermal tape fails over time. paste is messy as crap but i prefer it. tape is ok but don't count on it to hold stuff.

Double sided tape has been working for me 2 years now with no signs of failure on any of my strips. I can also set my hand on the top side of my cookie sheets with no burning sensation. It is hot but not enough to burn.

 

[VetSmoke85]

they will fail earlier without. the cookie sheet is frankly a good idea even. you're relying on passive air cooling, with the U channel you get both heat transfer cooling and passive air. it's not a big enough rig to be massively worried, but it may get stressed depending on the rest of the environment it works in.




elg's are a good driver. you'll find more of them in commercial apps than hlg's.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get chance to fit it in the tent and do some voltage, current, power and temp testing. See how it's looking and go from there.

 

[Nunyabiz]

I am running mine at 1400mA and when dimmed down to 250w each I can put a blindfold on and doubt that I could even tell if the light is on or not by touching it.
Its actually cool to the touch.
At full blast which is probably a bit too much light even in late flower for most cultivars (between 1300-1700 PPFD) after 20 hours on is just warm to the touch.
My hope is that this level of cooling combined with way beyond the needed 900-1000 PPFD that even years from now as they start to lose some intensity that they will still be over 900 PPFD 10 years from now.

I am at 65w per square foot @ 2.8 umols/j when run full blast.