How I perform low stress training on my plants: Lots of pics!
- Thread starter InTheShed
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- #602
It looks healthy so you can either leave it alone or straighten it up a bit every day and wait for it to get tall enough to start bending again with support from the opposite side next time. I would let it get at least another 2" taller and then just start to slowly pull down only the new growth over the course of a few days.
LST starts later with tight node plants so let it get tall enough to have something to work with. Is it an auto or photo?
Thanks for replying....It's an Auto, decided to let it straighten up so took off the green wire and it's stayed @ exactly the same angle with the top obviously bending back towards the sun. Makes me think it maybe not exactly snapped but bent over so the straw like inward of the stem maybe squeezed ? Did another with 3 nodes but kept stem straight and only bent it 1/8 inch. Worrying part as looked @ the 1st one today there is like an earthquake split in the top 1/4 inch of dry top soil so definitively a tug of war going on, hope the roots win 
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- #605
Is it pinched on the sides where it comes out of the soil? Is the plant showing any negative effect?
If the top of the soil is dried out that much I'd give it some water. Dry and cracked is too dry! And don't forget to support the side opposite the bend on the new LST.
I wouldn't supercrop an auto unless it had stretched out of control and into the lights during flower.
Hi there,
I hope this still gets read. I learned so much reading this amazing thread! So thanks for that in advance InTheShed!
I got 3 outdoor Mimosa Autos growing. I know this is not really recomended for autos anymore, but it was the only thing i dared to do with them, since it is the least stress I can cause it.
The first 2 I did before having seen this, so I did some things wrong and mostly watched out for light and having all colas at the same hight but less having the highest cola lower than others so auxin gets distributed new so the plant THINKS it got topped. Now I have a 3d growing, quite late with sprouting end of June, but we shall see
I was wondering if I did it correct and what the next steps would be.
Main stem is quite straight so there is no strain on the roots. Main stem in below the first nodes which are on the highest point at the curvature. I like, that by binding the plant like this, the main stem is kinda straightened automatically and the fan leaves are at the side.
Now what are my next steps? What do I do with the branches (and fanleaves)? Also bind them to the sides and below the curvature, I am guessing? When do I let them grow in height? Will the plant grow in height in general a bit, since the fan leaves are quiiite low to the ground, making me nervous.
Happy for any input Hoping I understood it right^^
Cheers!
I hope this still gets read. I learned so much reading this amazing thread! So thanks for that in advance InTheShed!
I got 3 outdoor Mimosa Autos growing. I know this is not really recomended for autos anymore, but it was the only thing i dared to do with them, since it is the least stress I can cause it.
The first 2 I did before having seen this, so I did some things wrong and mostly watched out for light and having all colas at the same hight but less having the highest cola lower than others so auxin gets distributed new so the plant THINKS it got topped. Now I have a 3d growing, quite late with sprouting end of June, but we shall see
I was wondering if I did it correct and what the next steps would be.
Main stem is quite straight so there is no strain on the roots. Main stem in below the first nodes which are on the highest point at the curvature. I like, that by binding the plant like this, the main stem is kinda straightened automatically and the fan leaves are at the side.
Now what are my next steps? What do I do with the branches (and fanleaves)? Also bind them to the sides and below the curvature, I am guessing? When do I let them grow in height? Will the plant grow in height in general a bit, since the fan leaves are quiiite low to the ground, making me nervous.
Happy for any input
Hoping I understood it right^^Cheers!
looks good the way it is. right now there isn't much branching to deal with.
Yeah right now I got some time until the branches become big enough to do anything with. But I was wondering how to handle them, once they do (In therms of height). Aside from tying them to the sides for the sake of leaving room for the nodes above to fill in the middle
Simply keep all of them below the curvature or some other part? As I understand it, the plant tries to develop a new apical growth. Is that one just the highest (or how do I identify it) and I simply need to keep it lower than the rest? Or do I bind every branch below the curve at first? Or just try to have every branch the same height, similar to a SCROG?
I hope my question isn't too convoluted...
Simply keep all of them below the curvature or some other part? As I understand it, the plant tries to develop a new apical growth. Is that one just the highest (or how do I identify it) and I simply need to keep it lower than the rest? Or do I bind every branch below the curve at first? Or just try to have every branch the same height, similar to a SCROG?
I hope my question isn't too convoluted...
KBUENOS
Well-Known Member
hey Elfi, welcome!Yeah right now I got some time until the branches become big enough to do anything with. But I was wondering how to handle them, once they do (In therms of height). Aside from tying them to the sides for the sake of leaving room for the nodes above to fill in the middle
Simply keep all of them below the curvature or some other part? As I understand it, the plant tries to develop a new apical growth. Is that one just the highest (or how do I identify it) and I simply need to keep it lower than the rest? Or do I bind every branch below the curve at first? Or just try to have every branch the same height, similar to a SCROG?
I hope my question isn't too convoluted...
I'm new here also, I use LST bend supports, and I have found that preventing those new axial shoots from taking off I save that energy allowing it to be used buy the colas that will have the full time in bloom, I stop all of the buds from forming below the surface area of the plant, I find that is very helpful, I do hope that you find something useful in my reply to your post, I am currently experimenting with cutting off the tips so that perhaps I can redirect even more of that energy or possibly refine my practice enough to where I can somehow get the same per plant but maybe fit two in my 4*4*7. also Leave Leaves alone unless they are transpiring and you cannot move them enough, or they are well beyond their usefulness to the plant, Jorge Cervantes says Leave Leaves unless they're damaged, I believe specifically he said unless they're %60 damaged, he is who I follow, and he's been doing this professionally for forty years now, he shares the literature for free online these days
happy growing new bestie, and I love the name btw
KBUENOS
Well-Known Member
KBUENOS
Well-Known Member
hi friend! I commend you for coming up to this, it can be overwhelming in the beginning. I wanted to ask you about how much time is the light on per day? as with unrooted clones I will use 24h under a 60 watt utility bulb, that does good for getting them established in a low stress environment but I believe that letting them sleep after that is maybe just as important as the light is. Lets talk about LST your lil gal here is still really little, I would wait until you have two or three sets of fan leaves and then cut the crown off so that she will squat and branch out from that point, cannabis plants like to just grow up like a rocket without topping, you wont have as many bud sites without this. I find that just as important as all of the training is manicuring, you don't want a bunch of unfinished buds way down under the canopy so I always just cut those off too, I find that keeping my girls with three main stems is best as it is another way to conserve that energy and put it where you want it. I hope that you find this information useful, and please message me anytime
I know they exist, but I am hesitant, since they have a limited size and dont grow with the plant. With the thick wire I can simply keep the plant in line in the beginning. Later I use parcel cord or pipe cleaners that I attach to the tiny holes I drilled in the side of the pot
Works really well and I can adjust their size, should they be restrictingThis is an autoflower, so I cannot do any sort of Fimming/Topping. Just too much stress for the little time those ladies have in veg phase. That's why I love the Idea of LST. I know some people still do it, but in general it is not adviced in the stuff I read about it. Especially not for beginners like me
Also, looking at @InTheShed 's plants in this thread (and autos in general), there will still be plenty buds (even if it is just and auto
)They are grown mostly outdoors. In the first weeks I put them under a 45w light (I know, not the best) since the weather was horrible and there was hardly any sun. Now the summer arrived but I still only have about 7h of direct sunlight. But I want to keep them outdoors since I made my peace with less/worse yield and there aren't any major costs in it, especiall when I am unexperienced and won't get the best out of them anyways. Also I just like the idea of outdoor growing more.
I am not cutting any leaves, unless they start to wither. Those beauties need all the energy they can get
I am just moving them to the side a bit, so the nodes (and they themselves) have direct sunlight.Yeah manicuring will be another big step. But I will wait until ~1/3 growth period when I can see which buds got potential and which are just wasted energy.