High Brix Method: Organic Super Soil

Refractometers are not too expensive, they are used by brewers for checking sugars in the wort, as well as by machine shops for checking cutting fluids. Just for other places to look. Got mine at a machine shop auction for 15 bucks. Use it for brewing too. It's nice when a tool can be utilized for several endeavors.
 
Wow thanks for the great information.

Im still looking for the best foliar. Non of the shops in town carry the recommedations by Doc. May be forced to order online.

High Brix Student

I highly recommend either:

Amaze and PGR (google)

or

Brixblaster.

If the best you can do is a compost tea, just add a pinch of the rock powders to the spray. IE, limestone, Soft Rock Phosphate and gypsum in a 6/5/3 ratio, along with some micro's. You may want to invest in a mortar and pestle or some other means of powderizing the minerals....especially the Azomite.

I'll be using the Amaze/PGR combo on a few plants and a homemade compost/mineral tea on the others. We'll see if the commercial product does what it's supposed to do.
 
I do have a question, you're growing in 5 gal pots, and it seems like the majority of your feed will come from the EWC as most of the other ingredients are minerals. Do you think this soil mix will get them through to the end? I know you plan on using teas but I'm just curious if you think it will be enough to get them through to the end.

Also curious about the humisoil, I can't seem to find it at my usual places, what all does it contain?

You'll need to feed a bit for sure. From what I've been learning there are three types of fertilizer preferred by these High Brix folks:

1.)Hydrolyzed Fish (perfect for the all-organic folks like me)
2.)Organic nutrient drenches. Please note that these drenches should really be designed by a professional after a soil test. I'm not going to go that way until I'm REALLY sold on this approach.

3.)I've just tried a very interesting plant food called BioSol Forte. It's made by a Swiss Pharmaceutical company. It's fantastic! You can get it under the name "John and Bobs Gardening Solutions." They call it "Nourish."

It's got the right amount of organic matter in the right ratio for what we're trying to do. It's designed for the High Brix growers.

But.....back to the original question....in a large pot, the organic matter in the soil and in the EWC is probably enough to see the plant through, provided the teas are used properly.
 
If I see in lag in growth or yellowing, I will have to add GO thrive. I have the bloom as well. First timer here for the super soil method, plus im swithching to mineral emphasis. Its going to be fun, i just need my clones to perk up.

High Brix Student
 
If I see in lag in growth or yellowing, I will have to add GO thrive. I have the bloom as well. First timer here for the super soil method, plus im swithching to mineral emphasis. Its going to be fun, i just need my clones to perk up.

High Brix Student

I wouldn't use GO Thrive. I'd use a salt based fert if they lag or yellow.....I have Vigoro Rose Food standing by for such an emergency. I haven't needed it yet.

The reason has to do with soil energy. The organic material doesn't immediately increase the soil energy....it must be broken down by microbes, while the salts are like an amphetamine to the soil.

The salts, generally, won't kill the microbes and in some cases will actually help them. (calcium nitrate being one of the best.) High Phosphorus salts WILL kill the microbes....so be very careful there.....but for the most part you'll be OK with gentle salt ferts.

Remember, we're not feeding the plants anymore!
We're worried about 4 things:

1.)soil energy
2.)Cation exchange
3.)microbial activity
4.)mineral balance

Soil energy is kept high with humus, but can be boosted quickly with salt ferts.

Cation exchange is optimized with rock powders.

Microbial activity is achieved with innoculants and weekly teas

mineral balance is achieved by adding the micronutes and having everything in the right ratio's.

The plant feeds the microbes! Foliar feeding primes this pump, (and keeps the plant green and happy at the same time.)

So, if your plants are yellow and slow growing.....don't feed the plants, feed the soil. Feed the microbes. How to feed the microbes? Foliar feed the plant and boost soil energy quickly with salt based ferts.

Bottom line, problems encountered along the way are SOIL problems, not plant problems. It's a bit weird to break away from the NPK/Hydro mentality, where every little issue is viewed as "lock out," or a deficiency of some sort and addressed directly. However, I've noticed that just about every problem I've ever had has been corrected with worm tea....microbes.

Feed the soil and the plants won't be a problem.
 
I'm late in flowering (day 84) but gave my ladies a good light foliar spray last night as the lights went off. Definitely a very light amount because I didn't want any mold to form, even though the RH right now is in the teens...

I also did spray from underneith the canopy in an upwards direction to make sure I got the bottom of all the leave's pretty good :)



I eyeballed the amounts but gave them
4 cups of R/O DI water
about 2ml of AdvNut Liquid carboload
about 4ml of general organic's cal/mag
about 10ml of F1 fulvic acid
about 4ml of Organic B advan Nutrients

this morning the ladies looked exceptionally well... Thank's doc!
 
Humisoil is sold by Bountea, good earth, and makes a great tea. Alaskan humus.Humisoil is sold by Bountea, good earth, and makes a great tea. Alaskan humus.
 
I'm late in flowering (day 84) but gave my ladies a good light foliar spray last night as the lights went off. Definitely a very light amount because I didn't want any mold to form, even though the RH right now is in the teens...

I also did spray from underneith the canopy in an upwards direction to make sure I got the bottom of all the leave's pretty good :)



I eyeballed the amounts but gave them
4 cups of R/O DI water
about 2ml of AdvNut Liquid carboload
about 4ml of general organic's cal/mag
about 10ml of F1 fulvic acid
about 4ml of Organic B advan Nutrients

this morning the ladies looked exceptionally well... Thank's doc!

12 weeks in flowering? What is it ICEMUD
 
I wouldn't use GO Thrive. I'd use a salt based fert if they lag or yellow.....I have Vigoro Rose Food standing by for such an emergency. I haven't needed it yet.

The reason has to do with soil energy. The organic material doesn't immediately increase the soil energy....it must be broken down by microbes, while the salts are like an amphetamine to the soil.

The salts, generally, won't kill the microbes and in some cases will actually help them. (calcium nitrate being one of the best.) High Phosphorus salts WILL kill the microbes....so be very careful there.....but for the most part you'll be OK with gentle salt ferts.

Remember, we're not feeding the plants anymore!
We're worried about 4 things:

1.)soil energy
2.)Cation exchange
3.)microbial activity
4.)mineral balance

Soil energy is kept high with humus, but can be boosted quickly with salt ferts.

Cation exchange is optimized with rock powders.

Microbial activity is achieved with innoculants and weekly teas

mineral balance is achieved by adding the micronutes and having everything in the right ratio's.

The plant feeds the microbes! Foliar feeding primes this pump, (and keeps the plant green and happy at the same time.)

So, if your plants are yellow and slow growing.....don't feed the plants, feed the soil. Feed the microbes. How to feed the microbes? Foliar feed the plant and boost soil energy quickly with salt based ferts.

Bottom line, problems encountered along the way are SOIL problems, not plant problems. It's a bit weird to break away from the NPK/Hydro mentality, where every little issue is viewed as "lock out," or a deficiency of some sort and addressed directly. However, I've noticed that just about every problem I've ever had has been corrected with worm tea....microbes.

Feed the soil and the plants won't be a problem.

Gotcha, got to get off hydro mentality. Thanks DOC
 
Second day of cloning. They are still leaning, but ill give them some more time.

Thanks to everyone who has stopped by to read or comment. Im learning alot.

Thanks again

High Brix Student
 
12 weeks in flowering? What is it ICEMUD

It's a strain called Holy Grail OG.... It's supposed to be a hard to get clone, but I couldn't find very much information on the actual genetics. The scent is dead on og kush, but the buds and way the plant grew were more like a bubba. I have seen in some places that it is a renamed cut of true og, renamed from tahoe og, but was just hearsay in another forum. I also found out that it is an elite cut that was given to cali connection before the guy got arrested, and the seeds were labeled "holy grail" but this is also a hearsay story. I really don't know what the true genetics are, but I can tell its going to be a killer OG...
 
pics of the clones? How much light do you have on them? I find if I have too much light they yellow much faster.. The darker it is (approximately room light) the faster they root
 
hey, newbie nob here again, this time I hope not to mess up anyones thread as I did my first time responing to a thread, and looked foolish, but since then Ive been doing my home work on this high brix method, and let me tell you, its more than just a way to grow it should be the true way to grow organics, or anything for that matter. See I truly believe in nature doing its thing before, and after us, the minerals, and micro life should be a foundation of growing period. The synthetic ways have become the norm now, and we kinda lost our truth. Hopefully with more legalization we growers can feel free to do more, and expand back to our true harmonies in body spirit, and minds. I truly believe not only Dr bud, but Icemud got the herd going in the right direction, I am on board. Also I truly believe in phoenix tears being the true medicine, pure and organic, and is already leaps, and bounds killing all pharma drugs dead with its healing abilities, I think making the same medicine with high brix plants can offer even more major benifits who knows maybe cure another disease other than cancer, diabeties, and endless list. As for cloning, I had major problems starting out trying all kinds of methods, and products, I finally got a pretty simple, effective, and fast way, oh and cheap, yes I am a cheapo, but using the standard cloning dome, and filling the holes with vermiculite, its like 7 bucks for a big bag, then I use your common jel , and after dipping them I dip them in some Mycorrhizea powder then in the hole, then I pour 1 cup of distilled water to the bottom, maybe 2 cups depending on how many clones, and holes contain vermic, the bottom should be fairly dry other than sa small puddle, which when you see it disapear, just add maybe quarter cup or until puddle comes back, and when I say puddle I mean like a spoon ful for the whole tray. I occationally spray now trying to wing myself off twice a day to once, to maybe never still testing that many say they dont, but I am a fradie cat with the little ones. Oh and yes very little light, I keep mine out of direct light, on the bottom shelf in veg room of flourecent like 4 ft away, I am at 99% just one so far failed to root at all, I think it was where I took the clone, oh and another thing to remember try taking big of clone as possible with multipal nodes, I find its stronger, and has more reserves to make the average 2week trek. I am working on being patient, and letting the clones get a 2week minimum root growth before flower, as before I put them ladies to work at go, yeah ok results, but not ideal, unless 100% heathy. I micro sog under 600watt cfls, not the best, but dialed in it makes for quality nugletts continusly, and always can dial it in more, as of now because of High brix, and my man Icemud I started and moved up from 20 ounce cups to 1 gallon amending my soil with top dress of soft rocks, minus the phosphate rock, I cant find any where I live yet, but is on the must have list, this has been the smallest change as my soil I use is just right xtra, amended with worm poo, vermiculite, and alaskan humus forst compost, and mycorrhizea, now I had all my rocks mixed in to the soil, and plan on a 4week top dress interval of rock to see the results before tweaking it. I also would like to add the hardwood mulch to this High brix method, as it is awesome for housing units for micro life, and it helps keep things moist, and wet longer to allow the herd to live just a bit longer, I use it a a top dress about 2inche thick. So far so go, oh, and now I feed worm poo tea with alaskan humus, and earth juice hi brix molasass, and working on workin in my earth juice grow, and flower nute in, as I hear the make good teas as well, I want to try earth juice sugar peaks 14day final flush feed foliar spay, but not yet one thing at a time- til next time yaw keep up the good work!
 
How did this grow turn out?

We would love to be updated with some pictures and info! :blushsmile:

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I am moving this to abandoned journals until we get updates.

Thanks and hope all is well in your world!

Love and respect from all of us here at 420 Magazine!
 
Wow thanks for the great information.

Im still looking for the best foliar. Non of the shops in town carry the recommedations by Doc. May be forced to order online.

High Brix Student


May i ask what he does recommend for foliar?

ALSO can some type of mycoz be added? What about using Fox Farm Ocean Forest instead of Vermisoil?

Not trying to change things really. Its just i have these already.
 
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