Hi you guys and female guys out there - quick question about Fruit and tomatos etc.

[Klovneposen]

Arg sorry did't see the growers lounge was not for small talk questions like this sorry for that. Mr chef in command (moderator) or what your called plz move this to the correct location for me

I use the Biobizz nutrients im my closet.

My question is. Now when spring is getting a bit near, i would like to get some stuff growing in my small garden. Im making tree Hi "beds" is that the word im looking for bed (tasting the word here) hmm beeeeds? oh well in those things im building. can i also use my biobizz series with as great success as i do with my plants?

Im planning on growing a couple of tomato strains, cucumber, peas, radises, potato and i think onion. something like that and a bit of strawberry and small stuff in some hanging long pots (i have no idea what those are called in english)

Well i found the shedule for tomatos using biobizz, so thats fine. But if anyone out there have got some schedules for some of the other stuff or some experience you want to share please reply.

Awesome

420 Rocks

 

[OMeWanCannabi]

Re: Hi you guys and female "guys" out there. quick question about Fruit and tomatos e

Hi Klovneposen,

I don't use Biobizz, in fact I only use my own compost so can't help you with possible schedules for that particular brand of nutes.

I do however have several years experience messing around in flower beds and vegetable patches that might be of some use

I don't know how experienced a gardener you are but this is a teeny bit of what I have found over the years in regard to the plants you list. Feel free to use or discard as you please ::

Cucumbers are tropical vegetables that thrive when the weather is hot and water is plentiful. Growing cucumbers is for warmer summer weather. Cucumber plants are so frost sensitive that they will turn to mush at the slightest hint of frost. They shouldn't be set into the garden until soil temperatures are stable above 20°C.

Cucumbers like fertile soil with a fair amount of N in relation to P & K, I would suggest a ratio of about 3-1-1 applied about once a week. (I use compost tea at every 2nd watering) so don't really bother with the exact ratios Soil pH should be 6.0 to 6.8, although they will tolerate anything up to 7.6. They grow fast and don't demand a lot of care. Just make sure you keep the soil consistently moist, don't let it dry out and avoid getting the leaves wet.

You should try to trellis your vines. This keeps the fruit clean and off the ground. This is important since fruit that is in contact with the soil will easily mould or rot, and if they don't, most will acquire a bitter taste.

Just like cannabis, cucumbers have male and female flowers. Unlike cannabis however, cucumbers don't come in male and female plants. Male flowers usually appear earlier than female flowers and fall off after they finish blooming. Easy to tell the difference as female flowers are attached to the vine by a tiny cucumber.

Harvest cucumbers when you feel they are ready (nice & plump). Harvesting early will promote more fruit to be produced.

Potatoes can be put into the ground as soon as the soil has properly thawed although depending on where you are geographically and what potato strain you choose, you may want to wait until late spring (I'm a bit above 60°N). I plant end of May for a short but more productive season. Used to plant earlier but found the growing season was longer but produced lower yields.

The soil should be loose and sandy and well drained. Potatoes prefer a well fertilized soil with about even ratio between NPK 1-1-1 10-10-10 etc. I always fertilize with compost & cow manure in late autumn after harvest and just before first snow. Add fertilizer with watering as needed, I stop all fertilizing around the last week in July in order to promote tuber maturation. Soil pH should be 4.8- 6.5. With higher pH you will run the risk of them getting scab disease. Depending on how much rain you get, you may or may not need to water. Don't get the soil soggy.

For greater yields, mound the soil up on the stalk a bit around each plant. Make sure no tubers are exposed to the sun or they will turn green and toxic due to production of solanine in the tuber.

Peas are members of the legume family, they can "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere, so they don't need much supplemental nitrogen in the soil. A low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer helps enhance blooming once they have begun to sprout. They prefer a soil pH of 7-7.5.

Peas are REALLY easy to grow, pretty much just plant them & they will grow! Use a trellis of some sort to save space and for easy access to the pods.

Onions like moderate levels of N & P with a higher level of K something like 3-2-5. Soil pH should be from 5.5 to 7.5 but they prefer a pH around 7. Again I use compost in the same manner as potatoes (applied in late autumn) with added wood-ash to boost K levels. I find it best to fertilize the soil before planting and not fertilize again during the year.

The type of fertilizer used will influence the onion's taste. If you want sweeter milder onions, use a fertilizer low or no sulphate content (e.g. ammonium nitrate). If you want stronger more pungent onions use a fertilizer with higher sulphur content (e.g. ammonium sulphate). I will actually supplement my compost with a little sulphur as I like my onions to have a little bite

When watering onions, it's important to keep the soil consistently moist, but not wet. Onions tend to rot easily in soggy soil. Onions have shallow roots, so deep soaks are not necessary. You will be better off watering onions a little every day rather than a soaking every few days.

Radishes are just like peas really easy to grow. Radishes like phosphorus so use a high P fertilizer 3-15-0. If you use too much N you will have nice healthy leaves but end up with next to no tuber.
The soil needs to be free of rocks (root will grow around these resulting in odd shaped tubers sometimes with pebbles inside tubers), well-drained and have a pH content between 5.8 and 6.8.

Just like onions, try to keep an even soil moisture content for best results. If you water the way cannabis likes to be watered (soak then dry out), the tubers will soak up so much water that they split.

Strawberries like loamy but well drained soil, they do not like it soggy. Just like onions, strawberries have shallow roots so keeping the soil moist is important especially when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the autumn when the plants are mature. Even NPK or slightly high on the N & K side say 1-1-1 or 3-1-4 with pH ranging from 5.5-6.5. Strawberries also want a little boron for best fruit yields. As with potatoes and onions, fertilize a few months before planting (late autumn) and not so much during the growth season.

Mulch with straw (strawberries ) in order to keep the berries off the soil and reduce weeds & attacks from creepy crawlies.
If you pinch all the flowers the first year & don't allow any fruit to be set, you will get a much larger harvest the second year. Also if you let all the runners be, you will have a strawberry weed problem with low fruit yields remove runners but replant a few every year to renew your plants (like clones) for continued good yields.

Choose a sunny spot, too much shade will get you low yields. Protect with nets or similar, birds just love strawberries.


Wow! Seems I got a little carried away there. That was a little more text than I had intended. I won't go in on tomatoes, that is a whole new post of twice this length just to cover the basics

Vis vobiscum

 

[Klovneposen]

Re: Hi you guys and female "guys" out there. quick question about Fruit and tomatos e

Wow thanks for your big effort to help. i am very grateful. I will copy this post in to my garden decuments keeped on my pc. im a journal and fact freak so save all useful information i get.

First of all my soilmix with be biobizz light mix (ph should be around 6.5 i think to recollect) reused soil from from my cabinet. (i will let it get flushed clean of course and put in some alg-a mig- that provides microorganisms to flurush in the soil. i think i will mix it with som compost and maybe a bit of cheap soil from the local recycling station. to keep the cost a bit down. this is my garden layout. nasty drawing but you get the picture

I think i will put mylar on the fence for reflection?
And will the long small beds be okay for peas and strawberries if properly drain as you wrote? I think one of the beds will be potatoes. The second one will be radishes, onion and maybe something else. The third one will be cucumber (with a small "greenhouse" type of thing over them. and maybe a couple of tomatoes and some salad. does this sound to optimistic its yield is only for me, and maybe a bit for my old moms if i get enough

Straberries i would beside of the fruits try to create an alternative to tobacco from the plant leafs. i have read this were used to cut up tobacco in the war times, so thought i could make some non nicotine type of "tobacco" solution with my canna trimmings and strawberry leafs or something.. So i thought it maybe could help me kick the hobbit ups i mean habit, i like to smoke a joint but hate the tobacco in it. it makes me keep my cigerette addiction well fed

behind the longbeds i thought of putting a bit os sunflowers so i can harvest a bit of seeds for pan roasted snacks for salads and such perhaps, what you think?

As for my experience go when it comes to growing. have have been growing cannabis for about 9 years. indoor. Hps for 5 years took a break and now started a small LED project course i lost my house on foreclosure (i think is the word) do to health issues. so had to downsize severely. My old rooms were equipped with 2x600 watt hps for bloom. and a 250w cfl early veg tent , and 21w cfl nursery. i have grown both soil and hydro. both Organic an non-organic in soil, prefer organic tho. so i think i will be up for the task. only thing i fear is lack of control of the environment. i like the included god complex that goes with indoor growing

again thanks so much for your interest in my post and the advice you have provided me with. it was exactly the helped i hoped for i got from you. you have given my all the info thats is of use. and saved me from spending hours of sorting in reliable and non reliable facts nor i can concentrate on doing further research on the things you have pointed out to me.

again THANKS so much



Actually if you make your own compost and tea and such i might have something of use to you. if you do not already have these charts of NPK values. i will put them up for you to take a look at, if useful to you.

Maybe you can explain this. (ash) in the chart. does it mean dried an pulverizes or what do you think?

And the force be with you, right back at ya if thats what you meant to say? sit vis vobiscum google translate. I don't trust that sh*t

 

[OMeWanCannabi]

Re: Hi you guys and female "guys" out there. quick question about Fruit and tomatos e

I would be a bit wary of the recycle station soil unless you know exactly what goes into it. It may well be great, but you never know what people throw into these things. Better in that case to make your own compost soil (ask for the neigbours grass cuttings and garden waste all of this year - set you up for next year) Also, just to keep disease at bay, I always hot compost used soil before I reuse it.

I think the mylar will be overkill if the sun shines in the garden all day as you state in the picture.

Peas are easy, they will grow pretty much anywhere you put them and I have grown strawberries in regular flower pots with good results so go for it

Make sure the "greenhouse thing" over the cucumbers is properly ventilated, too much moisture in the air will cause them to go mouldy.

As for the rest of the crops, I'm equally sure they will be just fine. When you say "salad" I take it you mean lettuce? I like to sow lots of lettuce spread over time. I'll sow some one week then the next week and again for about 5 weeks that way I have a continuous fresh supply of lettuce ready to harvest all summer. Lettuce and cabbage are also a great sacrificial plants to just spread all over the place if you have pest problems like caterpillars and slugs as these pests are drawn to the lettuce and cabbage leaving other crops alone.

Can't help you with the smokeability of strawberry leaves, as I don't smoke. Try, afaik It can't be worse than tobacco. Btw tobacco is easy to grow as well

By all means grow sunflowers, I don't cultivate them myself but I do feed the wild birds all winter so sunflowers grow all over the garden in summer. They look great, and sunflower seeds are very tasty

I would expect "ash" to refer to what is left when the item in question is burned. Thanks for the list by the way, I have a similar list but it is not even close to being this comprehensive. Will come in handy I'm sure.

Yes, vis vobiscum would be just that

 

[Meta tron]

Re: Hi you guys and female "guys" out there. quick question about Fruit and tomatos e

Comfrey Bocking 14 or bocking 4 is also an excellent plant to grow for high npk compost.

 

[Klovneposen]

Re: Hi you guys and female "guys" out there. quick question about Fruit and tomatos e

Comfrey Bocking 14 or bocking 4 is also an excellent plant to grow for high npk compost.

never heared of the plant but found a link about it. gonna study it a bit further. thanks for your input

for anybody else of interest the link
Russian Comfrey: Bocking 14. Living roots. Organic.

Seems to be pretty protien rich as well. was thinking of getting a couple of rabbits. i think they would love this.

 

[Meta tron]

Re: Hi you guys and female "guys" out there. quick question about Fruit and tomatos e

Rabbit manure does not need to be composted either