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Your feeding 1/4 strength nutrients?So, I have been away from growing for a while and a basically completely new at this point! I have run rdwc grow but not in soil long term. I am growing in ffof mixed 50-50 with ffhf. I am like under 40 days in veg and have been starting my advanced nutrients connoisseur grow A & B at 1 ppm a liter each. So qtr strength in ro water. I just started running B-52 at full strength 3 days ago and started voodoo plus tabs at recommended dosage a 5 days ago. I am growing Black Gorilla and GDP . I am in 5-7 gallon pots. Thinking 5 gallon. I have light at 26 inches on 80 percent, it is a full spectrum ion 720 led. Running at 19 hours on hours off. Just changed to 80 percent light. Leafs have plants has slowed growth a bit, have some deficiencies or tox going on . Think it’s sulfur, cal, mag, maybe??? Vpd isn’t bad running between 50 and 70 rh room temp between 71 and 82 F. Started spraying B-52 foliar after lights off lightly probably doesn’t do anything but read good things in grow journals. Lower older leafs are dark green have been whole grow since early seedling. A lot or purple on stems but thinking it’s just the genetics. But the tips of older leaves curl at tips. New growth really light green and skinny. Leafs appeared to have some kind of pest damage but there are none I have cleared whole grow and no bugs no anything so it related to nute issues. Leafs now have orangy, brown , greyish spots now….. please help!!!! Any help much approximate i am starting to panic!!!
Yeah, running 1/4 because I just repotted about 8 days ago I think. So soil soils all be great only watered twice since then. I had been using epsom salt at 1tbsp per gallon to help when young I honestly just figured with the soil and starting my advanced a and b I should be covered so cut it out on the last watering. Yes I check ph when adding water but not sure how to check my soil ph. I tried a trick I read not sure if it works. I’m not sure how it could though. You take 1-1 water and your soil then make it a slurry, let it sit out for a while stir again and then text ph. It came out 6.4. Usually my nute water is between 7.3 and 6.2, I am using advanced nutrients ph perfect, you are not supposed to use ph up or don’t it’s mainly cleated nutes anyway. I would love to just ph but it can actually mess up the ph perfect buffer. My ppm in the slurry also was only 520ppm. Thank you for reaching out any help is much appreciated!!! Thanks Bill284Your feeding 1/4 strength nutrients?
I put calmag in my plain water first and then feed full strength nutrients.
1ml/ l isn’t enough to sustain her once your soil starts to ru out.
Just curious are you checking ph?
Some calmag and a full meal should improve things.
Actually beautiful ladies my friend.
Stay safe
Bill284
Good morning my friend.Yeah, running 1/4 because I just repotted about 8 days ago I think. So soil soils all be great only watered twice since then. I had been using epsom salt at 1tbsp per gallon to help when young I honestly just figured with the soil and starting my advanced a and b I should be covered so cut it out on the last watering. Yes I check ph when adding water but not sure how to check my soil ph. I tried a trick I read not sure if it works. I’m not sure how it could though. You take 1-1 water and your soil then make it a slurry, let it sit out for a while stir again and then text ph. It came out 6.4. Usually my nute water is between 7.3 and 6.2, I am using advanced nutrients ph perfect, you are not supposed to use ph up or don’t it’s mainly cleated nutes anyway. I would love to just ph but it can actually mess up the ph perfect buffer. My ppm in the slurry also was only 520ppm. Thank you for reaching out any help is much appreciated!!! Thanks Bill284
Thanks , yes I have a loop I actually watched the leafs start developing with the holes and plant matter missing. . . it is weird never seen this before … thanks! Haven’t seen anything right when I noticed I used neem spray. Just did slurry methods and my ph tested at 1-1 soil water as 5.3 think I found my issue . But most nutes have chelated percentages in case . Idk never really grown in soil but I do know that ph is bad!!!have you got a loupe? some of that looks like mite damage.
Thank you for the fast help. Yes I started with 6.0 range bottled water. Ro water, I then added a and b a&n then added b-52 , then voodoo extra tab concentrate in water, then let sit a could hours always comes in around 7 ph then I top water to run off. I am going to grab some cal mag extra today, a new ph pen. Anything else I should get? Just checked ph in slurry it came out at 5.3 at 1-1 soil and water so that really bad but I also have shit oh meters. I lost all my good ones. Any help would be much appreciated.Good morning my friend.
Ph is fine, I was just curious if you checked your water after adding nutrients.
Do you have calmag?
I’d use it in your plain water before adding nutrients.
Also I’d feed according to the schedule until I see a recovery.
Stay safe
Bill284
You are running a grow in soil and I do not know of any reason to have to use a reduced fertilizer schedule based on a recent transplanting or any of the info given so far.Yeah, running 1/4 because I just repotted about 8 days ago I think.
You are growing in a dirt & compost based soil mix. Worrying about the pH of the soil itself could cause confusion as you, as the gardener, starts to chase the numbers. Most likely the two soils were tested and balanced by Fox Farm so that the pH of the soils would be about 6.5 to 7.0 or very close to that range. It should not change enough over the life cycle of the plant that there would be a need to check.Yes I check ph when adding water but not sure how to check my soil ph.
That is a standard method of doing a quick checking of soil pH for amateur gardeners. Not sure why you would not think it works. You can also get a professional level test of the soil if you want but the days of a free test are about over....but not sure how to check my soil ph. I tried a trick I read not sure if it works. I’m not sure how it could though. You take 1-1 water and your soil then make it a slurry, let it sit out for a while stir again and then text ph. It came out 6.4.
Earlier you wrote that the pH was 6.4 and now you are saying it is a 5.3 pH. Sounds like you are starting to chase the soil pH down the good ol' rabbit hole. That often leads nowhere except to frustration. There are soil growers on this message board who will tell us that they have not tested the pH of their soil in years. I last tested soil pH back in November of 2017 and have not seen a reason to bother doing it again.Just did slurry methods and my ph tested at 1-1 soil water as 5.3 think I found my issue .
Yep, what 'bluter' mentions. One of the photos is showing what could be Mite problems and maybe another insect. Also one of the leaves looks like the plant in in the very early start of a calcium deficiency.have you got a loupe? some of that looks like mite damage.
If you are going to buy a pH pen then buy the best. The Blue Lab pH Pens are often mentioned as some of the best. A bit pricey but for the money they will consistently give true results which the inexpensive pens do not.I am going to grab some cal mag extra today, a new ph pen. Anything else I should get? Just checked ph in slurry it came out at 5.3 at 1-1 soil and water so that really bad but I also have shit oh meters.
I transplanted all three on the14th or nov, I have been running lower a&n because I didn’t want to push to hard being in ffof, thought I would need to start there, if I am wrong I would love to know! I have been having to defoliate so much they want to stay bushy!!! Yeah I had been staying away from ph unless I noticed anything drastic . I don’t even have ph down or up, the first ph 6.3 was the water after nutes before watering into plant, and the 5.3 was the slurry check. Thank you for reaching out! Much appreciated!!! I have horrible anxiety and obsessive thought on my babies! lol helps to hear from someone else looking in!All in all those are nice looking healthy plants. It does not look like a major issue starting; just something that can be taken care of and then on to the flowering stage.
You are running a grow in soil and I do not know of any reason to have to use a reduced fertilizer schedule based on a recent transplanting or any of the info given so far.
As for the "...about 8 days ago I think." I have found it easy to just write the date of each transplanting on a piece of masking tape and stick that to the side of the pot. That way I do not have to think about when or if a plant was transplanted.
You are growing in a dirt & compost based soil mix. Worrying about the pH of the soil itself could cause confusion as you, as the gardener, starts to chase the numbers. Most likely the two soils were tested and balanced by Fox Farm so that the pH of the soils would be about 6.5 to 7.0 or very close to that range. It should not change enough over the life cycle of the plant that there would be a need to check.
If you add something out of the ordinary to the soil while preparing for the next transplant session then you might want to check the pH but really probably not needed.
That is a standard method of doing a quick checking of soil pH for amateur gardeners. Not sure why you would not think it works. You can also get a professional level test of the soil if you want but the days of a free test are about over.
Earlier you wrote that the pH was 6.4 and now you are saying it is a 5.3 pH. Sounds like you are starting to chase the soil pH down the good ol' rabbit hole. That often leads nowhere except to frustration. There are soil growers on this message board who will tell us that they have not tested the pH of their soil in years. I last tested soil pH back in November of 2017 and have not seen a reason to bother doing it again.
Yep, what 'bluter' mentions. One of the photos is showing what could be Mite problems and maybe another insect. Also one of the leaves looks like the plant in in the very early start of a calcium deficiency.
Yeah, shouldn’t have tried to cut that price at all! I was trying to cut any cost I could and only planned to use it for base of water to start lol but I need to do it and get it done! Thanks!!!If you are going to buy a pH pen then buy the best. The Blue Lab pH Pens are often mentioned as some of the best. A bit pricey but for the money they will consistently give true results which the inexpensive pens do not.
It worked great in my under current, rdwc system and the rdwc systems I made when. I did ph though lol. I haven’t used any ph up or down with this grow, but like I said haven’t done much in soil. I really want to get all grow styles down and have some fun! Thank you for reaching out much appreciated ! Last soil grow I did outside was soil I made and it worked great, only added A&n as a treat with them and early and they were 15 foot tall and wouldn’t die! I should have just mixed my own again but trying to cut cost was a mistake.I've suffered plenty with mites, and the damage is usually clustered around the veins first so I doubt that
For me, the problem is using pH Perfect, I bought some and it just didn't work properly for me
I'd be thinking calcium for the blotches and maybe a slight K shortage causing the brown spots
Hard to know what to do with PhP though so I ditched it
As others have said, first stop would be some CaMg
I hate it man. I ordered some ac infinity 15 gallon pots that will be here later today planning to get these out and change as much of the medium as I can. The one plant that’s doing good only has one difference I can think of is. I used most of my last bad of ffof and ffhf in its pot and the two that are bad used the new bags I had to open. I found big white rocky crystal in the ffof new bad all through it I’m guessing maybe gypsum idk…. Wish I could just move them to dwc. Thanks for commenting.I'd switch nutes, it's not too late to save the plant form deteriorating any further