Help, leaves turning lime green

[Missyhum]

OK, that makes a big difference, with the light.. Bigger watts, or PAR even, the plant needs more "calories", or PPMs. You test the PPMs when you make your feed water.

now, seeing your light isnt demanding a huge amount of feed, just keep on the calmag, and just water. Not sure what your feeding her, but it definitely shouldnt be very much at all. That pot has alot of nutes, Fox farm can be good results just adding water the entire grow to be honest.

invest in a PPM meter, like $15 on the amazone

I’m feeding her the fox farm, grow and the 2nd one. Light on the amount too. I think I have a ppm. Is that that device you stick in the soil/water and it tells you the ph and moist level?

 

[bluter]

that fan is an inline booster fan and may not move enough air to drop your humidity. if you couple it with a carbon scrubber it will have an even harder time.

it is a good brand and i've seen others use it as an extractor as well, though with no scrubber (filter) attached.

this is the type of fan required for use as an extractor if you add a carbon scrubber.

@VetSmoke85 posted a great graphic on how a tent is set up including extraction fan and carbon scrubber.

there's nothing wrong with using the fan you have, it just may not move enough air.

your light should be maintained about 18 - 24 inches from the canopy in flower. that light does look a bit small for the space. i'd have to look up the specs, but i'd venture you could use a second one.

without knowing your media and feed sched i can't comment on the ppm you are currently feeding. plant requirements go up in flower, not down, so i wouldn't drop it lower, and things look good right now. i don't see any plants currently having nutrient issues.

 

[bluter]

Is that that device you stick in the soil/water and it tells you the ph and moist level?

no.
it stands for parts per million. it is a measure of how much nutrient value is in the water you are feeding.

those soil probes you are talking about are less than useless.


edit : the ones used for measuring ppm/ec in the water are what you want. there are dedicated ph probes as well. have you been ph'ing ? your media may not have required it. LOS and other soil type grows are often water only with no ph required.

 

[Mayne]

Thank you, take your time, I’m here. I love my babies and taking care of them is one of my main priorities.

Ok, Best to put your light 16 inches away from the toppest top you have. That will give you about 440 PAR. It will grow buds, but dont expect them to be huge. When you get half way thru flower, lower it to 12 inches if you want for around 700 PAR., BUT, move it side to side half way thru the day if possible. If not possible, best bet is to just ride it out at the 16 inches, so you get at least decent coverage for the entire grow space. Coverage drops pretty significaly at 8 inches from the center of the right left to right. What size tent is that anyways?

 

[Mayne]

that fan is an inline booster fan and may not move enough air to drop your humidity. if you couple it with a carbon scrubber it will have an even harder time.

it is a good brand and i've seen others use it as an extractor as well, though with no scrubber (filter) attached.

this is the type of fan required for use as an extractor if you add a carbon scrubber.

@VetSmoke85 posted a great graphic on how a tent is set up including extraction fan and carbon scrubber.

there's nothing wrong with using the fan you have, it just may not move enough air.

your light should be maintained about 18 - 24 inches from the canopy in flower. that light does look a bit small for the space. i'd have to look up the specs, but i'd venture you could use a second one.

without knowing your media and feed sched i can't comment on the ppm you are currently feeding. plant requirements go up in flower, not down, so i wouldn't drop it lower, and things look good right now. i don't see any plants currently having nutrient issues.

If her dehumidifier is working as expected out side the tent, that inline fan is plenty, its just pulling air, maybe not a huge amount per second, but it will get the job done eventually, lol..

 

[bluter]

If her humidifier is working as expected out side the tent, that inline fan is plenty, its just pulling air, maybe not a huge amount per second, but it will get the job done eventually, lol..

it could be adequate with no scrubber attached. it's meant as booster for the main extractor though.
moving air drops humidity faster and cheaper than adding a dehum or ac, but it can only do so much.

 

[bluter]

Ok, Best to put your light 16 inches away from the toppest top you have. That will give you about 440 PAR. It will grow buds, but dont expect them to be huge. When you get half way thru flower, lower it to 12 inches if you want for around 700 PAR., BUT, move it side to side half way thru the day if possible. If not possible, best bet is to just ride it out at the 16 inches, so you get at least decent coverage for the entire grow space. Coverage drops pretty significaly at 8 inches from the center of the right left to right. What size tent is that anyways?

you'll get the par at canopy but you shouldn't run led that close. led is very directional, and can be overly intense when in close contact. there is cell damage that occurs on a sub-molecular level when run too close. it usually presents as a genetic issue. akin to your plant getting cancer.

 

[Mayne]

bro, you cant remove humidity, if the room the tent is in, is also high humidity. I advised her to dehumidify the ROOM the tent is in, and use the fan to remove AIR from the tent, THUS, will pull the dehumidified AIR OUTSIDE the tent, into the tent. Its just simple air exchange. a 4inch fan duct taped to the tent opening would work too, i just figured the "booster" fan does the same thing, I use the same exact fan, to EXCHANGE air in a 3x8 room, works perfectly, hooked to a InkBird climate controller.

 

[Mayne]

you'll get the par at canopy but you shouldn't run led that close. led is very directional, and can be overly intense when in close contact. there is cell damage that occurs on a sub-molecular level when run too close. it usually presents as a genetic issue. akin to your plant getting cancer.

each their own brother,

I put my vipar p1500,,, 5 inches from my plant, with 1000 PAR on purpose, and it did no damage as long as the air is cool and removing the heat away from the plant. The plant was like 2 weeks old, zero adverse reaction.

 

[bluter]

bro, you cant remove humidity, if the room the tent is in, is also high humidity. I advised her to dehumidify the ROOM the tent is in, and use the fan to remove AIR from the tent, THUS, will pull the dehumidified AIR OUTSIDE the tent, into the tent. Its just simple air exchange. a 4inch fan duct taped to the tent opening would work too, i just figured the "booster" fan does the same thing, I use the same exact fan, to EXCHANGE air in a 3x8 room, works perfectly, hooked to a InkBird climate controller.

should be exhausting to outside. if just dumping air from the tent back in to the same room and recirculating, then there will definitely be environment issues to deal with.

each their own brother,

I put my vipar p1500,,, 5 inches from my plant, with 1000 PAR on purpose, and it did no damage as long as the air is cool and removing the heat away from the plant. The plant was like 2 weeks old, zero adverse reaction.

worked with led in another industry. built and sold branded grow rigs local for a few yrs. mostly custom installation. we'd never recommend that. i personally run my whole grow around 24 inches, but we use dimming functions.

24 - 36 inches from canopy in veg and 18 - 24 inches from canopy in flower are essentially industry standard. you're gonna see those distances cited near everywhere. most growers play with those distances and find what flies for them. which is also what i'd recommend.

 

[Mayne]

should be exhausting to outside. if just dumping air from the tent back in to the same room and recirculating, then there will definitely be environment issues to deal with.

again, agree to disagree.

 

[bluter]

I put my vipar p1500,,, 5 inches from my plant, with 1000 PAR on purpose, and it did no damage as long as the air is cool and removing the heat away from the plant. The plant was like 2 weeks old, zero adverse reaction.

led light damage occurs with no heat present. bleaching as well.

 

[Mayne]

should be exhausting to outside. if just dumping air from the tent back in to the same room and recirculating, then there will definitely be environment issues to deal with.





worked with led in another industry. built and sold branded grow rigs local for a few yrs. mostly custom installation. we'd never recommend that. i personally run my whole grow around 24 inches, but we use dimming functions.

24 - 36 inches from canopy in veg and 18 - 24 inches from canopy in flower are essentially industry standard. you're gonna see those distances cited near everywhere. most growers play with those distances and find what flies for them. which is also what i'd recommend.

See, im a "PAR" grower. Seedlings, =250 PAR, and increase PAR 50 each week till chop. I also MATCH my PPMs to my PAR. Week 4 veg = 450 PAR and 450 PPMs. Week 6 flower = 750 PAR and 750 PPM.s

Im a "Adjust light via Dimmer", to reduce electric costs and heat production.

 

[Mayne]

led light damage occurs with no heat present. bleaching as well.

man, i can see deep into flower, sure, light damages trics and terps,

at the end of the day, that 100 watts light isnt going to damage anything,

 

[bluter]

again, agree to disagree.

i know plenty of folk running haphazard set ups. my own veg room is recirculated.
my flower room would be a disaster if it wasn't vented outdoor.

on bigger stuff i've run lung rooms as well. room in room with the main room scrubbed to outside, and individual rooms recirculated inside the lung room. a few hundred plants.

man, i can see deep into flower, sure, light damages trics and terps,

at the end of the day, that 100 watts light isnt going to damage anything,

it is anemic. i'm not sure it will do in flower.

 

[bluter]

See, im a "PAR" grower. Seedlings, =250 PAR, and increase PAR 50 each week till chop. I also MATCH my PPMs to my PAR. Week 4 veg = 450 PAR and 450 PPMs. Week 6 flower = 750 PAR and 750 PPM.s

Im a "Adjust light via Dimmer", to reduce electric costs and heat production.

can still do that with a big enough rig and dimming well within recommended distances. i run 600w of cob led in under 4 x 4 flower with dimming at 75 - 90%. usually to the higher end.

gonna try out a quantum style set up next at 650w. i am a big believer in big light. i only run 200w on the veg rig.

 

[Mayne]

I personally think COBs and SMDs are different breeds of lights. i built my own 4 cob light, and it rocked. SMDs are spread out more, where COBS is like a lazer, simply because its more compact, but powerfull, so I can see what your saying about light burn and such, in that instance, but SMDs, man, dispersed light over distance. and also, lensed could cause problems at close distance, no doubt about it.

the old diodes with lenses, caused problems. I rebuilt a Mars 300 with lenses, and it was unreal, althought tiny footprint because i had to hang it so high, i got 1000 par at like 36 inches, lol..

Im going to be starting a sponsored grow for PerfectSun LED, using the SMD DwarfStar, with lenses i think it has, and Neil makes some powerfull lights, but Im going to be following MY guildlines and see what happens.

great rule of thumb, closeness max
100W=12-14 inches
300w=18-20 inches
500w=30-32 inches
600w=42-44 inches

but again, Footprint matters aswell,

 

[bluter]

I personally think COBs and SMDs are different breeds of lights. i built my own 4 cob light, and it rocked. SMDs are spread out more, where COBS is like a lazer, simply because its more compact, but powerfull, so I can see what your saying about light burn and such, in that instance, but SMDs, man, dispersed light over distance. and also, lensed could cause problems at close distance, no doubt about it.

the old diodes with lenses, caused problems. I rebuilt a Mars 300 with lenses, and it was unreal, althought tiny footprint because i had to hang it so high, i got 1000 par at like 36 inches, lol..

Im going to be starting a sponsored grow for PerfectSun LED, using the SMD DwarfStar, with lenses i think it has, and Neil makes some powerfull lights, but Im going to be following MY guildlines and see what happens.

great rule of thumb, closeness max
100W=12-14 inches
300w=18-20 inches
500w=30-32 inches
600w=42-44 inches

but again, Footprint matters aswell,

my rig is wall to wall. there's no where to hide.

there's 12 of them up there. running two 300w mean well hlgs.
the qb style i'm putting in also has less than a two inch clearance all round.

the smaller emitters are actually more intense and directional. i've seen damage with weak burple 5050 smds that weren't used proper. i found it shocking as they weren't very powerful at all.

cobs actually have more spill over, but are used very similar to other led rigs. there's no way i'd run them that close though. and i run it no further than 24 inches from top in flower.

 

[Mayne]

 

[Mayne]