Help diagnose deficiencies please

Sask420grow

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. I’m new to the forums and joined because I’m having major problems with my blueberry strain. This is what the plants look like 2 months into veg. I believe it’s a lockout from bad ph values in the water. I was using hot tub test strips too test the water before feeding it to them. Also the water temps are not regulated. Often times it’s cold. Recently have been adding microwaved warm water to warm it up.
The back story to these plants is as follows
Got the clones on December 28th and they were cut 20 days prior too that. The tap water ph value is 8.9 which I knew I had to correct. For the first few waterings I used vinager to lower the ph in the water. The water always sits out for 24hrs prior to mixing. I watered them for 3 weeks with vinager water then on the third week I tested the runoff with the same strips and it read 4!! The plants growth was slow from the start. Once I noticed the soil ph at a 4 I decided to do an emergency transplant. They reacted very well to the transplant with lots of growth BUT the inter Nodel spacing was very small. The first 3 weeks I had them on a 24hr light schedule. I did not have a proper light until day 7 in which I got a 1000w HPS set up. The heat from this light was incredible. Prior to the light the rooom was a decent 73-77. Light on it easily got too 98-105!! So I built a 5x5 tent with an exhaust and a intake that brings cold Saskatchewan outside temps inside (in the winter temps get easily -25c). This made it easier to regulate temperatures. Next problem was humidity. In winter we are very dry. So I added two humidifier. One cold air humidity and one hot air humidity. Now the environment is regulated. Temps are 75-80f and humidity is 40%-60%.
Back to the transplant three week later.
They react very well to the transplant but the problem I had was I wanted to take the old dirt away but I watered them two days prior and the soil was still moist and wouldn’t break apart without wrecking the roots (roots
Looked awesome). So I just did a basic transplant with a light watering. The transplant was from 1g pale to 3G pale. They were in this pale for another month before I did the finale transplant into 5g smart pots. While in the 3G pales is when I did all the stress training to them. Did topping fming tie down and super cropped with lots of defoliating. The plants sometimes didn’t react to the trainings but sometimes they did. Hard to explain that lol. Anyway...
after the first month I ended up buying a ph pen off amazon for like $40. The pen came with a three in one soil ph meter. I start using the pen and to my surprise the readings are way off from what the strips have been saying.
The first time I used the pen to water the plants I made sure the pen read 6.3 and got some runoff too test with the pen. The runoff reads 8.3ph!!! Wow. From one end to the other on less then a month! So I do another emergency transplant. At this time the plant is showing signs of a complete lockout due to the soil ph. After I did the transplant I retested the soil runoff and it’s still reading high 7.7-8.3! Wtf. Gia greens living soil is what I’m using.
The last transplant was into the 5g smart pots but as a newb I did not add the perlite properly. Instead of adding it/mixing, I simply put a 1 inch layer at the bottom and then put the soil on top of that. It’s what the bag says to do haha. I know now to mix it into the soil. Anyway, the plants are not taking up much of the water. 5-7 days and it’s still damp an inch down. I talk to my local hydro shop and he says I’ve been watering too light. Currently have been doing 2l water per 5g pot. I thought this was lots not realizing the soil obserbes twice it’s volume in water ha.
Next minor hiccup I had was I used Neptune’s fish and seaweed fertilizer and watered them with that but did a light watering cause I wasn’t aware of the light waterings I’ve been doing yet (didn’t talk to hydro guy till after I fed them the fish and seaweed). After I fed them that at half dose is when I really started to notice the lockout/chlorosis. The picture provided are from today March 12th. the reason I fed them was I though they used most the nutrients in the soil and needed a boost to keep them going.
After a a few weeks of water and dry I couldn’t handle the decline they were in so I transplanted two of the four into new fresh soil. I knocked off ALL the roots dirt till all that was left was roots and yellow/green leaf. I then put them into fresh soil with a ton of perlite added to the soil. Watered them and then defoliated them to look like this. The other two that I didn’t transplant did not look as bad so I figured they would simply rebounded based on a correct ph for water and soil (new pen). So far everything is working like I planned and the yellow is fading away too green. The plants not transplanted are also rebounding and looking healthier.
After I made the transplant on the two, I added some worm casting too all the soil. Did this because I was told the microbes more then likely died off and I needed to feed them to get them too reproducewhich I believe is working.

So now all I am doing is watering with phed water too 6.3-6.5. Using lemon juice to bring the ph down. I am going to feed the plants every other watering with the Neptune’s fish and seaweed nuts. I will add the worm casting weekly to get the microbes back up. I also got some Gia greens all purpose 4-4-4 powder I might start adding in case the soil is depleting of the nutrients needed. The plants should be 3ft tall but I bent the main stock while training to get even canopy. I used coat hangers to secure the stocks.
I’m trying to give as much info as possible as you can see lol.
Hopefully you guys can help me figure out what I did wrong so I don’t repeat or keep doing it.
They are rebounding. Should I just keep doing this. Is there something I can give them to boost the recovery?
Thanks for your time everyone. Look forward to seeing your replies...
 

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Hello Sask420grow, I am too new to this to offer any real advice of my own, but if you are still having trouble with watering I would read this post. Emilya has some very valuable info!

 
:welcome:to the forum...

It almost looks like light burn, or too much light, rather than a nutrient deficiency or surplus. I'm not a soil grower, so I won't comment on that aspect.
 
Lightburn it could be. What contributes to light burn? I used HPS for the first month and then got a MH for the second month. The plants have not been any closer then 20in and as far away as 42in....
 
I'll drop this here for you. Save it for later.
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So zinc and iron? I’ve seen this chart but I can’t decipher what the deficiency is. Using Gia greens living soil so it shouldn’t be deficient in anything... I’m still leaning toward complete lockout. How do I fix it? Correct soil ph. How? Keep watering at a ph of___ (no idea). I’ve been doing 6.3 and runoffs come out at 7.1. The plants are getting green back but not as much as I’d like. I’m still thinking 7.1 is too high to uptake the iron and zinc. How do I get the soil ph too 6.3?
 
If you're confident your lights haven't caused the damage, It could be from a lock out, and getting the soil back to normal isn't too difficult.

To get my soil back to normal, after a similar problem, I flushed it with 6.5ph water. I used 1 gallon of water per gallon of soil, but I don't know if that'd be necessary in your situation with 5gal pots.

This takes awhile to do. You don't want the water to come out the sides, if it does you're adding water too fast. After the flush, let the soil dry out.

Before you go any further, you might want to check the calibration of your ph pen. You want to make sure your readings are accurate.

Also, use the search bar to find other growers with similar deficiency problems, to compare what you think the problem is.

Maybe @Emilya can help out, when she's on here. She certainly knows organic soil more than I.
 
If you're confident your lights haven't caused the damage, It could be from a lock out, and getting the soil back to normal isn't too difficult.

To get my soil back to normal, after a similar problem, I flushed it with 6.5ph water. I used 1 gallon of water per gallon of soil, but I don't know if that'd be necessary in your situation with 5gal pots.

This takes awhile to do. You don't want the water to come out the sides, if it does you're adding water too fast. After the flush, let the soil dry out.

Before you go any further, you might want to check the calibration of your ph pen. You want to make sure your readings are accurate.

Also, use the search bar to find other growers with similar deficiency problems, to compare what you think the problem is.

Maybe @Emilya can help out, when she's on here. She certainly knows organic soil more than I.
Very good info. I sometimes calibrate it with a solution of ph4.1 and the pen often reads 4.2 which is fine by me. I use baking soda for the high calibration which often reads 8.5 and baking soda has a base of 9 so I’m somewhat confident on that too.

I haven’t compared it to say the hydro shops pen yet. That might be my next step. Takes 10 mins and relief/ ease of mind.

I’ve been doing the waterings at 6.3 which from what I can tell has brought the soil ph down to 7.1-7.3 but I need it lower. It was a high 8 to low 9. That’s when the lockouts started. So progress is happening but slowly. In saying all that, this was all tested prior to the ph pen. When I got the pen the soil ph often showed 7.8 and lower and lower from there. So basically a point each watering. Which I think they need it faster.

Can I folier spray them to give them direct nutrients that I think they need (zinc, iron, magnesium, potassium)?
 
Looks like Mg toxicity. Was there Cal/Mag in the mix?? Looks like too heavy of a hand with it to me.

Solution - change soil. You cant fix that. So up pot and use some soil you have laying around to fill in, water and wait. No more Cal/Mag.
 
Looks like Mg toxicity. Was there Cal/Mag in the mix?? Looks like too heavy of a hand with it to me.

Solution - change soil. You cant fix that. So up pot and use some soil you have laying around to fill in, water and wait. No more Cal/Mag.
No calmag was used. Nothing was used besides water and Neptune’s fish and seaweed fertilizer. Just started adding some worm casting.
 
OK so organic soil grow?

Whats in your soil mix?

PH changing chemicals you are using?

I looked at your pics and skim read your post. sorry

Your pics look like they are Mg toxic to me.


Did you follow the instructions on the label for the fish emulsion?

I've seen this when the soil is too hot with N - there's a microbial orgy with that and the roots get baked. Feel the side of the container. If it's warmer than ambient its cooking.
 
OK so organic soil grow?

Whats in your soil mix?

PH changing chemicals you are using?

I looked at your pics and skim read your post. sorry

Your pics look like they are Mg toxic to me.


Did you follow the instructions on the label for the fish emulsion?

I've seen this when the soil is too hot with N - there's a microbial orgy with that and the roots get baked. Feel the side of the container. If it's warmer than ambient its cooking.
I like the idea but I don’t think that’s the case here. The soil is Gia greens organic living soil. Ph the water with vinegar when they were small (shouldn’t have) and now use lemon juice. I followed the label but only used a third of what was prescribed.
Soil isn’t hot. Moist and cool/room temp...
I did do a transplant on two of them and they are slowly bouncing back. The other two I felt didn’t need it as they were not looking as bad. All seems fine with them now. Soil ph is still 7 and higher which I’m guessing is the root problem. Pun intended haha. Here’s the thing. I can’t get it lower for some reason. AND I just amended it with rock dust which sometimes raises the soil ph. Also amended with Gia greens 4-4-4 and some worm castings. All at half strength. Just did that yesterday and then phed the water going it too 5-5.5 cause I knew it would go high in the soil and hydro shop guy said to water in at low 5 to try get more of a result in the soil faster. Well it still came out 7-7.3. I dunno what to do.
 
Wondering if you have more than one plant if so how are they?
Attached is one of my plants from last year, it wasn't as yellow looking as yours but burn't tips, leaves turning on themselves and there was yellowing along edges. I ended up flushing it with lots and I mean lots of water (120 gals) to get the PH up to 6 as this plant had a very low at PH 3.5. Flushed with 6.5 water. Any ways the long and short of it was the plant recovered but I never really got rid of the problem. Going to Supper soil next to hopefully reduce my stress. Good luck with the plant.
 

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Wondering if you have more than one plant if so how are they?
Attached is one of my plants from last year, it wasn't as yellow looking as yours but burn't tips, leaves turning on themselves and there was yellowing along edges. I ended up flushing it with lots and I mean lots of water (120 gals) to get the PH up to 6 as this plant had a very low at PH 3.5. Flushed with 6.5 water. Any ways the long and short of it was the plant recovered but I never really got rid of the problem. Going to Supper soil next to hopefully reduce my stress. Good luck with the plant.
I have 5 plants. Four are this strain and one is not. Two of the four look fine while two look like this.
What soil were you using?
I have a soil ph of 7.3 which I think is locking out some micro nutrients and main nutrients.
I’ve done as much as 10 litres in a 5g smart pot to try and correct soil ph. Worried if I use too much water it will just wash the nutrients out and I’ll be left with a coco base type material which isn’t any good.
 
I have 5 plants. Four are this strain and one is not. Two of the four look fine while two look like this.
What soil were you using?
I have a soil ph of 7.3 which I think is locking out some micro nutrients and main nutrients.
I’ve done as much as 10 litres in a 5g smart pot to try and correct soil ph. Worried if I use too much water it will just wash the nutrients out and I’ll be left with a coco base type material which isn’t any good.
I am by no means a expert in PH and adjusting it but 7.3 seems high especially if that is the run off post flushing. When I had the PH issue I was encouraged to get the PH run off to 6. Then I let it dry out for almost a week the plant looked better after a 4-5 days but it never seemed to recover totally, but it survived and is in a jar now.......In my case it was the poor potting soil was acidic but it sounds like your issue is the soil base is high (could be a Lime issue?)....My experience is that it was the acidic base soil and I fought with it through out the grow........next time
 
We growing in soil right?

Why EXACTLY are you worried about PH for??

Looking for a scientific answer. Not because the dude at the hydro store told you so.

I've been growing plants for many many many years never checked my soil PH other than when I have a soil test done. Completely different PH test. I only get that result because its part of test a very MINOR part.

You dont have the equipment to measure soil PH properly.

Soil PH changes ALL THE TIME.

The reason is due to how plants interact with soil microbes. There's root exudates the plant gives out to the soil microbes and the soil microbes FEED the plant based on that exudate exchange/availability from the roots. Depending on the PH of the exudate, that is how the microbes know what the plant roots are looking for with regard to nutrients.

Flushing doesn't do what you think its doing to your soil.

You cannot "wash" out minerals/nutrients from the soil with water. Its not possible due to chemistry and a thing called "cation exchange".

Growing in containers in soil is much different than growing oudoors in the ground. Outdoors you have a lot more soil to buffer all the nutrients, not so much (WAY less buffer) in a container.

For PH - concentrate on your water you are adding in.

The chemicals you add to your water can interact with the soil microbes and nutrients/minerals already in the soil. More important are the soil microbes.

Microbes feed the plant. You feed the microbes or better provide the nutrients the microbes like and they will feed the plant what the plant needs. The plant tells the microbes what it wants via the root exudate.

The nutrients get to the roots from the microbes and the plant up-takes WATER that is attracted to the minerals/nutrients along with those nutrients but it has to be water soluble first.

Looking at your pic - there's something likely wrong with your water going in.

Try rain water for a few weeks if you can manage to find some.

Also I'd add in some microbes/mycos since you likely washed them all away with the flushing thing. Don't flush soil.
 
We growing in soil right?

Why EXACTLY are you worried about PH for??

Looking for a scientific answer. Not because the dude at the hydro store told you so.

I've been growing plants for many many many years never checked my soil PH other than when I have a soil test done. Completely different PH test. I only get that result because its part of test a very MINOR part.

You dont have the equipment to measure soil PH properly.

Soil PH changes ALL THE TIME.

The reason is due to how plants interact with soil microbes. There's root exudates the plant gives out to the soil microbes and the soil microbes FEED the plant based on that exudate exchange/availability from the roots. Depending on the PH of the exudate, that is how the microbes know what the plant roots are looking for with regard to nutrients.

Flushing doesn't do what you think its doing to your soil.

You cannot "wash" out minerals/nutrients from the soil with water. Its not possible due to chemistry and a thing called "cation exchange".

Growing in containers in soil is much different than growing oudoors in the ground. Outdoors you have a lot more soil to buffer all the nutrients, not so much (WAY less buffer) in a container.

For PH - concentrate on your water you are adding in.

The chemicals you add to your water can interact with the soil microbes and nutrients/minerals already in the soil. More important are the soil microbes.

Microbes feed the plant. You feed the microbes or better provide the nutrients the microbes like and they will feed the plant what the plant needs. The plant tells the microbes what it wants via the root exudate.

The nutrients get to the roots from the microbes and the plant up-takes WATER that is attracted to the minerals/nutrients along with those nutrients but it has to be water soluble first.

Looking at your pic - there's something likely wrong with your water going in.

Try rain water for a few weeks if you can manage to find some.

Also I'd add in some microbes/mycos since you likely washed them all away with the flushing thing. Don't flush soil.
I haven’t flushed the soil. I was sceptical to flush it cause I was worried it would wash out the nuts.
Ph is everything when it comes to nutrient uptake. Otherwise they wouldn’t have a term called “nutrient lockout” which is exactly what happen to these plants. That’s a scientific term too. Due to either water ph going in being to acidic or alkaline or the soil ph itself is to high or too low. These nutrient uptake charts are not made from thin air.
I understand what completely what your saying by the microbes are what feed the plants but even that is dependent on ph levels in the soil and what the water going is is. Rain water is slightly acidic but the soil will buffer it to an acceptable level ( rain water is 4-5.5ph and once at root level the top layer of soil will buffer it too 6.5-7.9. This is the proper way to ph the soil)
I’m pretty sure with all that being said that a soil run off of 7.3 is locking out certain micro nutrients along with some main.
Here’s a ph chart for nutrient uptake.
 

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I believe the plants look that ways because the soil ph is above 7 which locks out iron and zinc which are essential for photosynthesis.. I just came here for confirmation I guess. Not ridicule.
 
I just came here for confirmation I guess. Not ridicule.

It's not meant that way, but sometimes it does come across as ridicule, or a put down. This is especially true for strong statements. Tempers flare when problems arise, both from those offering assistance, and those requesting it. We often hear things like 'the guy at the garden (or hydro) shop said..." Too often those folks at the shops have no experience, and have no clue about growing things. It just frustrates everyone.

When you get answers to questions here, there's a quick way to check the probability that it's a good answer. Hover over the person's avatar. You'll see when the member joined, how many posts they've put up, and most important a 'Reaction score.' The longer they've been here, and the higher the number of posts and Reaction score, the more likely the answer they give contains accurate information.

Most of us rush to put up a 'helpful' post at times we don't have time to fully explain ourselves. Some of us become a little (OK a lot) abrasive when problems arise on the home front, and post without considering the affect on the reader. I know I've been guilty of both. All we can do is acknowledge the person is trying to help, and try decode what they are trying to say without rancor.

I'll ask @Emilya to have a look. She's helped a lot of folk with their growing pains. Hopefully we can help you achieve a successful grow.
 
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