HashGirl's First Indoor Grow: Dark Devil Autos In Hempy, 2020

threw pistils(17 days)
High h00k :) my recent one dI’d that too. It’s still grown up to be the biggest DDa I’ve grown tho.

You’re absolutely right about the variation in it. It’s so good though it matters not, right! :passitleft: Bobrown grows dozens of them at once. It’s a good strategy if you have the space! I remember StoneyM saying he always has one running, grows them start to finish in his flower tent.
 
100 days so I guess I have a while longer. I do hope they bulk up some.
they will bulk up - and live seen sue take them earlier that that as well. They’ll show you when they’re ready.

Wait for the white stigmas (hairs) all over to turn brown/orange and for the plant to slow down pushing out new ones. Then it’s time too start watching for other things like trichomes and whether they are slowing down on their drinking.

Things will bulk up during this final ripening phase
:thumb:
 
I grew two DDA in 5gal dwc buckets. One was 42 inches tall and produced around 3.5oz and the other was 34 inches tall and produced close to 5oz. Seems like dwc is the preferred method if your trying for a large DDA. They both started to flower around 17 days then grew like crazy.
 
I fertigated this morning. The next time I fertigate is Monday, which is the start of Week 11. Should I up the nutes to half of the FloraSeries Week 11 amounts? And, their nute feed program only goes 12 weeks. I know that photos go longer than 12 weeks and some autos do, too so where's the rest of the chart?

Flora Series Nutrient Chart.jpeg
 
Others who use nutes may chime in on this, but I don’t think you have to keep increasing if the plants are happy HG. If they look to be getting enough of everything at the strength you’re feeding them now, then no need to change it. I don’t use the same type of grow system as you but that is a good general principal in my experience.

The feeding charts are guides. Use them alongside your own reading of your plants. For example, if a plant has as slow start or fast start it might effect when you feel like it has grown from the “Seedling” to the “Early Growth” phase, and so on. Additionally, different strains have different appetites, some pure sativas for example might only need light levels of nutes, whereas other types like some KUSH varieties etc. have voracious appetites. So the charts (IMO) probably aim at mid-range recommendations for a lot of modern hybrids and then we, as growers, have to tailor that to each individual plant.

That’s one advantage that growers who run clones have. They can get to know a particular cut really well and how it grows in their particular conditions and then can get in to finer details like reading which ones like/need higher levels of micronutrients Etc. It’s all in the reading :love: You’re a great reader Hash Girl :battingeyelashes: so you’re gonna be great at this! Already well on the way in fact :)
:ciao:
 
If she’s happy with her feed don’t increase it yet.

You're back! :love:

Rumours had it that you had moved on. I'm glad to see it wasn't so. :hugs:
 
Others who use nutes may chime in on this, but I don’t think you have to keep increasing if the plants are happy HG. If they look to be getting enough of everything at the strength you’re feeding them now, then no need to change it. I don’t use the same type of grow system as you but that is a good general principal in my experience.

The feeding charts are guides. Use them alongside your own reading of your plants. For example, if a plant has as slow start or fast start it might effect when you feel like it has grown from the “Seedling” to the “Early Growth” phase, and so on. Additionally, different strains have different appetites, some pure sativas for example might only need light levels of nutes, whereas other types like some KUSH varieties etc. have voracious appetites. So the charts (IMO) probably aim at mid-range recommendations for a lot of modern hybrids and then we, as growers, have to tailor that to each individual plant.

That’s one advantage that growers who run clones have. They can get to know a particular cut really well and how it grows in their particular conditions and then can get in to finer details like reading which ones like/need higher levels of micronutrients Etc. It’s all in the reading :love: You’re a great reader Hash Girl :battingeyelashes: so you’re gonna be great at this! Already well on the way in fact :)
:ciao:

But, I don't know how to read a plant now and they haven't looked great for a long time now but you guys all say they're fine so that's why I'm asking here because I haven't developed those skills yet to be able to fine tune nute amounts relative to how the plant is doing. :confused:

I've been posting on the Hempy Headquarters about how I'm fertigating them from post #4215 to where it is now and it's one of those things where I thought I was doing what I was supposed to be doing with them but it turns out I wasn't and that was even with everyone's guidance here.
 
I fertigated this morning. The next time I fertigate is Monday, which is the start of Week 11. Should I up the nutes to half of the FloraSeries Week 11 amounts? And, their nute feed program only goes 12 weeks. I know that photos go longer than 12 weeks and some autos do, too so where's the rest of the chart?

Flora Series Nutrient Chart.jpeg
Most of those feed charts will show four weeks of veg and eight weeks of bloom and, in the last two weeks of bloom, you'll see the nutes decreasing as they get towards what would be a pre-harvest flush (if you were going to flush your plants). If you're going to veg for longer than four weeks, you'd keep at week #3 doses (you can increase, but sticking there on the chart is what most of the nute manufacturers will recommend) until the transition. And, if you're going to flower longer than eight weeks, you stick at week #6 doses until two weeks before harvest, then start the decrease per the chart in weeks #11 and #12. :Namaste:
 
haven't developed those skills yet
You are developing them now though… And I was talking about the future and things that happen over time, l guess.

Regarding the ‘now’ I did say I didn’t think you need to increase anything yet unless they look like they need it (look hungry) which yours don’t - in the most recent pic I saw

I was only trying to explain that the charts aren’t ‘set in stone’ gospel. Krip and Penny gave better explanations of that :)

Your first grow already looks better than mine did. :D

You’ll get these to the finish and then when you’re running thenext ones you’ll feel the benefit of all the things you are learning now during this run. I’m sure of it!

just cruise with these no until they are done.

What day are they up to?
 
Thanks, Amy. :love:

They will be 70 days old tomorrow.
 
Hi Hash Girl I just stopped in and your plants look really cool. That dark color with the stark white pistils. Awesome. Our Auto's are basically the same age as I dropped my seed May 1st.

I read also that you are recently retired. I to made the final move and stopped working this spring. Of course I actually stopped working my career about 8years ago as I spent some time taking care of family situations. Growing and caring for plants are kinda my family now. That and a great hobby and avocation.
 
Good evening.

This isn't related to my grow but we're also growing 4 Hash Plant cannabis plants outside. They are planted in ProMix with Dutch Nutrients. The first two photos are of the plant that is beside the one with the problem leaves. The second two photos are of the plant with the leaf issues. If someone could please let me know what they think the issue might be, that would be great.




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What PW said...kinda look looks like mite damage or maybe really variegated leaves. A check of the underside will tell the tale.
Many growers are using MegaCrop these days, which contains amino acid-chelated micronutrients, instead of the usual EDTA and the like type of chelation. This imparts the fertilizer with the ability to provide these nutrients over a wider pH range, which coincides with the pH that a buffered mix like ProMix maintains.
Please please please stop repeating the made-up theory of another member here regarding chelation and pH. There is no evidence anywhere that I can find (or has been posted) to support that claim.

It's not the nutrient that determines whether you need to pH your nutes, it's the medium. Buffered mediums do not need pH-adjusted nutes. ProMix is buffered with lime, and whether you use MC or FoxFarms or Dynagrow or AN or GH, you do not need to adjust the pH of the nutrient solution.
 
Our local grow shop worker said that the leaf was healthy, it was just showing a different variegation from the other ones.
 
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