Yea I need to do something different and the crazy thing is I get little to no streach just straight into forming buds After the first few days. All 3 set only add about 2-3 inches of height after the switch? Any ideas is this ok? I was thinking about adding sweet also just not sure when to start adding it. First time is not so easy lol. I plan to make plenty of mistakes. That way I will learn and remember. I have to learn things the hard way lol.
Harvest a pound every three weeks! The Stinkbud way
- Thread starter ACGrow-Brain
- Start date
simondetroit
New Member
Only thing I can suggest is stick to the veg. nutes a little longer. I've been using them 2 weeks after the switch to flowering. I just put some pretty small plants into flower and I thing I may even go 4 weeks with the veg nutes?
84 daytime 66 night and I just had another one die on me cant figure out why they just wilt then go dry and crunchy. I moved the light down about 3 inches and then 2 days later one more was wilted and crunchy dead can it be to much light? Just cant figure it out
Thanks all
simondetroit
New Member
84 daytime 66 night and I just had another one die on me cant figure out why they just wilt then go dry and crunchy. I moved the light down about 3 inches and then 2 days later one more was wilted and crunchy dead can it be to much light? Just cant figure it out
Wow, that's crAzy. This might be a stupid suggestion but are you sure all I'd your sprayers are workin properly? Only other thing I can think of if it's not lockout/ nute issues
Sky Rocket
New Member
Hey Gorilla 5
1. When your plants got crunchy and died what color were they and do you have any pics of them when they died?
2. Are you using R/0 water?
3. What's your humidiity during this stage.
4. Is your ppm right in your rubbermaid roughneck?
5. 85 degrees is a little brutal, is that when the lights are off?
Just trying to help you out bro. I hate to have plants die on me too.
1. When your plants got crunchy and died what color were they and do you have any pics of them when they died?
2. Are you using R/0 water?
3. What's your humidiity during this stage.
4. Is your ppm right in your rubbermaid roughneck?
5. 85 degrees is a little brutal, is that when the lights are off?
Just trying to help you out bro. I hate to have plants die on me too.
1. green except for the bottoms yellowing nitrogen diff?
2. no Tap water ppm 50 ph 6.5 I got lucky there
3. humidity 20 lights on 27 lights off
4. different strains have lost some in each of the 3 systems all did the exact same thing week one of flower start 1000ppm 1200ppm 1400ppm 1650ppm till week 7 then 1000ppm then phed water the last week
5. top temp is 84 with lights and co2 on 6 hours in its only up to 80
here is some pics
7.5 weeks in flower
same strain been dead about 3 weeks
AK-47 wilted and crunchy
AK-47 middle right and last left dead
Thanks
simondetroit
New Member
Wow
Sky Rocket
New Member
Gorilla 5 try lowering your ph to 5.8 range for aeroponics.
Can you lower your temps down to 75-78 degrees. 75 to 80 degrees would be ideal for your C02. Remember when you have Co2 and you have plant issues it only speeds up the problem.
In my opinion the crunchyness could be because of high temps and you could be locking out nutes due to your 6.5 ph range?
I once had plants looking like that when I came back from vacation and I knew it was because of hight temperature. High temp can slow growth of the plants.
Using tap water often contains high levels of sodium, calcium, alkaline salts, sulfur and chlorine. Using a R/O machine can seperate the dissolved solids from the water. So if you can afford a r/o unit I would invest in one. If you can't and you are using tap water let it sit one or two days in an open container to get rid of the chlorine. The chlorine will evaporate as a gas when it comes in contact with the air. I don't know how much chlorine affects in hydro but in soil it tends to acidify soil.
Well I'll stop preaching. I'm just trying to help another brother out. I hope it helps.
Can you lower your temps down to 75-78 degrees. 75 to 80 degrees would be ideal for your C02. Remember when you have Co2 and you have plant issues it only speeds up the problem.
In my opinion the crunchyness could be because of high temps and you could be locking out nutes due to your 6.5 ph range?
I once had plants looking like that when I came back from vacation and I knew it was because of hight temperature. High temp can slow growth of the plants.
Using tap water often contains high levels of sodium, calcium, alkaline salts, sulfur and chlorine. Using a R/O machine can seperate the dissolved solids from the water. So if you can afford a r/o unit I would invest in one. If you can't and you are using tap water let it sit one or two days in an open container to get rid of the chlorine. The chlorine will evaporate as a gas when it comes in contact with the air. I don't know how much chlorine affects in hydro but in soil it tends to acidify soil.
Well I'll stop preaching. I'm just trying to help another brother out. I hope it helps.
yea not looking good I know learning the hard way
Not preaching I really need the help
I keep my ph between 5.6 to 6.0 my water is filtered through a food grade twin filter system so it takes out some of the bad stuff. I even turned off the co2 for a couple days, flushed and still cant get it under control has made no difference. I already run a 11k btu portable a/c unit going to try a bigger window unit soon just need the money. I need a bigger fan to vent the hoods for sure. Only have a 424cfm for all the hoods. I read in a nother journal you should use about 200cfm per 1000 watts souund right? Water temp never gets over 70 runs between 65-70. I know thats a little high also. I just cant figure it out there fine in veg but when they go to flower all hell breaks lose
same plants that are dying now same water and all
Thanks
Sky Rocket
New Member
Yeah rule of thumb 200 cfm for every 1000 watts. How much lighting do you have in our flower room and is your fan(s) pushing or pulliing the hot air out?
Fan is pulling the air. 4000 watts all in a straight line for the flower room. I am going to change things around I am losing to many plants even for a rookie. Going to make changes as the sets finish. Room is 8.5x11 with 8.5 celings going to move all the rez to one end and make the tube really long they will be 5x5 fence post instead of 4 inch round more air for the roots. I think they might have been over watered roots always were wet so I now water 15min on 1 hour off it helped some be more perky so i think its the right direction but just to late for some. Going to get a bigger fan for the hoods bigger a/c and space the lights in a square pattern not a straight line. If my thinking is good or flawed plz chime in. I am trying to get good meds for me and a few patients so far not going so good. I did reserch for about 4 month before I started and thought I had a good game plan but ther is noting like real world experience.
thanks
thanks
Sky Rocket
New Member
Yes you definetly need a bigger fan at least 800cfm fan. Hold out on the bigger a/c. I think you should fix one thing at a time before you buy all of this at once. Get the bigger fan before you buy a bigger a/c.
yea thats the plan i just want a bigger window unit to free up some space on the floor and that way i can make sure i have enough cooling power it has not even started to get hot here and dont want to keep having heat issues. I was woundering if i could use a big attic fan cause they are way cheaper than a can fan with 800cfm.
Thanks
Sky Rocket
New Member
I'm not familiar with attic fans so I don't know how they work or what they look like. They may be cheaper but I'm not sure it will be as good as a can fan.
Yea I used 2 of them for my shop when I was painting cars self made paint booth. They worked great they moved lots of air. I can get one from home depot 1500 cfm for around $120 and can run take over 200deg temps. Just need to build a box for it and add ducting. Then my heat issues will hopfully not keep giving me troubles.
Thanks
crypiter
New Member
gr8 post
StormChaos
New Member
Changing the post size isn't really going to change the amount of 02 available to your roots - that is based on how much 02 is in the nutrient solution being supplied to the plants. If you want to increase this just add an air stone to your res.
I have read some of the posts regarding your situation, I may have a missed a few things... but it seems most everything is in safe ranges.
I see you are supplying CO2 - I cant remember if I read what level ppm you are keeping the CO2 at - but 1200 to 1500 is typically ideal - if your using CO2 you can safely keep your temp at 90 degrees with out harming your plants. Of course if your using CO2 you want higher temps and 85+ are ideal so your plants can metabolize nutes at a faster rate....
You might like more air movement... a few extra fans will help - CO2 is heavier than air. Your just not getting optimal use of your CO2 cause it is sitting around.... move it around, although this has nothing to do with what your experiencing....
Your res temps and pH are at acceptable levels.
RH of 20 - 27 is a little low - but this wont kill any plants - if anything it will increase trichome production a little and maybe make your buds a little more crystally.
Your nute PPMs seem safe... Having a lower RH will cause faster dissipation and evaporation of your reservoirs and the plants will experience higher transpiration rates....are you letting your res evaporate and the PPM levels inadvertently rise to exceedingly high levels? I think if this was the case it would be affecting more than just a couple of plants but your entire crop....
What I am seeing is an intermittent problem. You had one plant die in wk3 of flowering and a couple more plants die later on, for no apparent reason. if it was something with your environment, adverse symptoms would most likely be more prevalent among more of the plants.
My gut feeling says you are experiencing some sort of hardware failure. Salt build up on a nozzle. Something like that is more likely to happen if your running sprays on timers - like 1 minute on 4 off or in your case 15m on 1h off.... than if your running it 24/7. You can safely run the system 24/7. The o2 is resupplied to the nute solution best thru agitation and contact with the air. I would conduct a really good visual inspection of the plant sites that had plants die... it could be the roots themselves clogged the sprayheads.
I guess it is possible that the 1st plant that died contracted some disease and died, and it took this long for the disease to manifest itself in the other plants. Although this idea seems to be less likely.
I sure do miss AC Grow, he's a super dude!