Now that's a good choice. I also have the SF1000, but I use it to germinate. But if he added an SF1000 to his 150 Watt HPS it would be about right. They are only 100 watts ea. but are equivalent to about a 250 watt HPS. With 2 of them you could eliminate the HPS completely. His tent temp would be cooler also as HPS puts out a lot of heat.
The Auto's should stay on 18/6 or 20/4 for their entire life cycle. You can still flower them on 12/12 but it will take slightly longer & you will get less yield. You have to time your start for the Auto's & Photo's to work together. When you have about 6 weeks left on the Auto's is when you want to start your photo's. That way the photo's veg 6 weeks while the Auto's finish. Then flip to 12/12. Been there, done that.
What do you mean by starting them? Germinating? I've read your answer in today's lunch break at work and made up my mind. Because in that case I'd probably order some Vision Seeds Russian Snow. That would make my grow a triple White Russian one and I could stick to european genetics. On the other hand my ripped-out four Orig. White Russians have been pleased by some serious sunlight on my window sill today and it seems to get even sunnier for the rest of the week. Wanna take a look? The small reddish seed you see on the ground is either a sprouting mandrake, or datura, or snakeroot seed that's been germinating in there for three weeks before it got company by my Auto's. But somewhere else on the page I've read that it's forbidden to talk about stuff like that on here so I'm gonna stop.
Thanks for the info, I did. Hope they'll credit you when I order after being redirected from here, but it's none of my business of course...
Everything works perfectly fine, the box is constantly filling and smells yummy
I will start today with putting them to the stairs infront of my door, there's no radiatior and the temperatures are around 10°C (50° F) min. I will leave them there from now on every night for a week. Then I'll bring them to a place where there are no trees but forest around, to the northern end (so the sun comes from the south and shines there). At that place I made a bed last year with some fertilizer: 50l frozen black peat, 25l white peat, 40l compostearth, 40l compost, 1kg seaweed chalk (you know what I mean?), .5kg bat guano (phosphorous-red), 3kg seabird guano (nitrogenous-white), 5kg horn powder, .5kg worm castings, 10l sand, 1l ash and 10l barkpeat (like coco-peat but made of tree bark) infused with a litre of molasses. That stuff has been rotting there for almost a year and I don't know if there's much left but I'll try. Do you think I will need a foil-tunnel if I let them stand outside at night for a week or just one of both? I will have to start soon because in summer there's so much weed all around you can't really get there...
I forgot that I also used 20 pounds of lava meal to raise the acidic ph further together on a short-time-scale by ash and on a long term by nitrogenoumcarbonate from choralls. It's because the full 85l (22.5 gallons) peat mosses have together with the forest ground an acidic ph. The red bat-guano will deliver some phosphorous and together with the white seabird-guano, kelp meal and molasses there will be lots of nitrogen. And overall the compost soil that I raised the compost ratio by 100% has a neutral ph. The sand stabilizes the graining and the barkpeat gives it a slight mulching. Now a year later the nitrogenoumcarbonate has degraded lots of the peat mosses and compost and if not some potassium and phosphourous is left, there will at least be lots of nitrogen so the four plants will grow to genourously tall plants. They have two more days to acclimate themselves to the cold outside when I will plant them outside and hope they survive. Wish me luck
I made my homework, so it's called lime or calciumcarbonate, what I wrote of is so callled soda and if you melt it with lime and sand it makes glass... sorry for that one
