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Grow Journal - 1st Grow Indoors
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Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
!!!
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I can't really help there as I grow organic. The only chemical I use, and very sparingly, is MOAB becasue it has no nitrogen and allows me to adjust up the bloom nutes only. That said I am trying a method for the first time in my grow that should need no nutes at all so I am watching that closely.
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- #169
just not sure how nutes work I'm kind of slow at retaining stuff when I keep getting new knowledge tossed at me anyways I think my next grow I'm ganna mix my own soil or some variation of different combinations of soils and I like to try this tea this grow has been vary educational and I am getting stuff ready for the next one I'm stuck inbetween difficult people and a difficult time frame but didn't anticipate veg taking so long I used the last of a friend of mines age old bloom had enough to make 2 gallons so two feedings wanted to flip the lights off in the morning tomorrow but my guy with my hps set up is being super lame and my hood and ballast for the 1000w is still in Denver waiting pick up for delivery!!! Should I flip with the t5s till I get my poop in a group or will it hurt changing lights 1or2weeks in
Noob4x4grow
New Member
Subbed. I would wait until your get your HPS setup. I'm not sure, but the difference in lumens could hurt the plant. I could be wrong. These guys on here are the pros. I'm just a noob who just started growing again. Good luck Css!!!
There are a few questions there.
So fertilizers are like vitamins and minerals for people. They allow the food we take in to be used properly to make our body parts and make us strong and vibrant and healthy. In plants they do much the same thing. The actual food for the plant is light. Chlorophyll converts light into sugar. Just like in people in the end most of the food gets converted into sugars and our body runs on sugars and proteins a plant runs on sugars.
So as a plant grows and has more leafs it will be doing more photosynthesis and need more nutrients to keep up otherwise it will start to show signs of deficiencies. The amount of fertilizers you add should be relative to the amount of photsynthesis going on and too little will show up as deficiencies.
Just like we can overdose on things we can overdose plants with fertilizers too. They don't get to choose how much is is absorbing so it absorbs what we throw in there and if you do too much it can burn the plant or cause it to stunt or even worse things.
Having a bigger light will mean more photosynthesis even with the same number of leaves. So not having a light that is optimal means you need to run with less nutes then the bottle claims. Having small plants with few leaves means using less nutes then the bottle claims.
Now about nutes. There are 2 kind of nutrients, Macro nutrients and many Micro nutrients. The 3 macro nutrients are on all of the labels and are Nitrogen Phosphorus and Potassium. These are the N-P-K numbers on the bottle and those represent a relative ratio. So if the bottle says it is 20-20-20 that means it has equal parts of each. If it is 40-10-20 then it has a 4 times the N than the Phos and double the Pot. The reason to know this is it allows you to understand what you are feeding. If for example you were growing a plant that didn't use much Phos but needed lots of nitrogen then that fertilizer I just showed you might be very good. Each plant has different needs and this is why farmers rotate crops so that the soils don't get used up. Planting different plants that use different ratios of nutes allows for the soil to not get run down over time.
There are also Micro nutrients (I can't remember but like 16 of them that are important). These are things like Iron, Manganese, Boron, Copper...the list goes on and on. These you don't need a lot of just having some around is good enough.
Most all good cannabis fertilizer products are a blend of macro and micro nutes so you need not worry about it. The 3 exceptions are Calcium, Magnesium and Silica. All of those are commonly underfeed. They would normally come from the tap water but people filter the water and then have none and need to add them back.
So all that said...Nitrogen is very important for vegetative growth but is also the most commonly over feed fertilizer. Very important for general growth. Phos and Pot and needed in veg as well but are less important. In bloom the ration must change to be healthy and you want minimal amounts of nitrogen and tons of Phos and Potassium.
And that is the very most basic fertilizer lesson. Knowing less then that makes it hard to know what you are doing. That is the minimum you need to know.
So fertilizers are like vitamins and minerals for people. They allow the food we take in to be used properly to make our body parts and make us strong and vibrant and healthy. In plants they do much the same thing. The actual food for the plant is light. Chlorophyll converts light into sugar. Just like in people in the end most of the food gets converted into sugars and our body runs on sugars and proteins a plant runs on sugars.
So as a plant grows and has more leafs it will be doing more photosynthesis and need more nutrients to keep up otherwise it will start to show signs of deficiencies. The amount of fertilizers you add should be relative to the amount of photsynthesis going on and too little will show up as deficiencies.
Just like we can overdose on things we can overdose plants with fertilizers too. They don't get to choose how much is is absorbing so it absorbs what we throw in there and if you do too much it can burn the plant or cause it to stunt or even worse things.
Having a bigger light will mean more photosynthesis even with the same number of leaves. So not having a light that is optimal means you need to run with less nutes then the bottle claims. Having small plants with few leaves means using less nutes then the bottle claims.
Now about nutes. There are 2 kind of nutrients, Macro nutrients and many Micro nutrients. The 3 macro nutrients are on all of the labels and are Nitrogen Phosphorus and Potassium. These are the N-P-K numbers on the bottle and those represent a relative ratio. So if the bottle says it is 20-20-20 that means it has equal parts of each. If it is 40-10-20 then it has a 4 times the N than the Phos and double the Pot. The reason to know this is it allows you to understand what you are feeding. If for example you were growing a plant that didn't use much Phos but needed lots of nitrogen then that fertilizer I just showed you might be very good. Each plant has different needs and this is why farmers rotate crops so that the soils don't get used up. Planting different plants that use different ratios of nutes allows for the soil to not get run down over time.
There are also Micro nutrients (I can't remember but like 16 of them that are important). These are things like Iron, Manganese, Boron, Copper...the list goes on and on. These you don't need a lot of just having some around is good enough.
Most all good cannabis fertilizer products are a blend of macro and micro nutes so you need not worry about it. The 3 exceptions are Calcium, Magnesium and Silica. All of those are commonly underfeed. They would normally come from the tap water but people filter the water and then have none and need to add them back.
So all that said...Nitrogen is very important for vegetative growth but is also the most commonly over feed fertilizer. Very important for general growth. Phos and Pot and needed in veg as well but are less important. In bloom the ration must change to be healthy and you want minimal amounts of nitrogen and tons of Phos and Potassium.
And that is the very most basic fertilizer lesson. Knowing less then that makes it hard to know what you are doing. That is the minimum you need to know.
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- #172
Yea I just don't know either I used to growing outside where u only got one light and your plants can get huge
Lights can always be upgraded so long as you introduce them slowly. There is one exception and that is very early sprouts. brand new plants can be easily burned and should be under low lighting for a while.
So for changing lights. Let say you are getting a 1000W HPS and you know that you can never let plants get closer then 24 inches. Then that tells you a few things. One you need to start it way higher then that when switching over to it like 40 inches or more to begin with. Then each day you can drop it a few inches. After about 3 days the plant will be ready to rock and roll and be fine for a final adjustment.
But your plant will be growing up. so you need to keep it about 30 inches away or so in case the plant shoots off and grows fast up into the hot zone. In bloom being too close to the lamp will cause hermaphrodites which is a big problem. So you will want to keep eye on it and adjust it regularly.
I keep mine plenty far away.
And I made up those numbers. You should double check those distances. And for the first grow add a bunch of extra space. Until you have the heat venting properly you don't want to burn them girls.
So for changing lights. Let say you are getting a 1000W HPS and you know that you can never let plants get closer then 24 inches. Then that tells you a few things. One you need to start it way higher then that when switching over to it like 40 inches or more to begin with. Then each day you can drop it a few inches. After about 3 days the plant will be ready to rock and roll and be fine for a final adjustment.
But your plant will be growing up. so you need to keep it about 30 inches away or so in case the plant shoots off and grows fast up into the hot zone. In bloom being too close to the lamp will cause hermaphrodites which is a big problem. So you will want to keep eye on it and adjust it regularly.
I keep mine plenty far away.
And I made up those numbers. You should double check those distances. And for the first grow add a bunch of extra space. Until you have the heat venting properly you don't want to burn them girls.
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- #174
Thank you that was a lot less confusing then the crazy people they have working at these grow stores out here most of them are 21 year old science students who have never even seen a cannabis plant let alone grow one I shall continue my study with new vision still super foggy but it's making sense
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- #175
So starting the 12/12 with these t5s for about 1 week 2 at the vary most and then change out the t5s for a 600w hps I got a good deal on it and fits better in my space and can exaust the heat from it better ganna save the 1000 for the next grow I will have more room and better ventilation
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- #176
I am actually highly educated Engineer with an amazing resume. I work hard to write things in a way anyone, even a foreigner who has a hard time with English, can understand. Lots of people get on here and try to impress with big words and they just come off to me as pretentious. I don't give a crap what people think. I want you to understand this so you can pass it on.
We have a saying in engineering. If you can't explain it simply then you don't understand it. People who need to use big words are doing this site a disservice. It needs to be foreigner friendly.
We have a saying in engineering. If you can't explain it simply then you don't understand it. People who need to use big words are doing this site a disservice. It needs to be foreigner friendly.
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- #178
I agree I'm a machinist by trade and a hobby smither so I'm a bit of a peofectionist in my own chaos
I deal with a lot of engineers for the most part they r easy to deal with and really know what they r talking about but then I get one or two who know the math but real world is diffrent but thank u alot of people keep secrets and give u false info for idk themselves I like to learn and for now I have a lot of time on my hands and growing calms me down smoking does too
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