Grass Roots Hi Brix

Hash Hound said:
I ordered the Madness today.

I inspected the plants earlier and all were 100% healthy looking. Nice rich green color.
One plant we did supercrop a few days ago and cracked it bad. It had maybe an 1/8 of the stem left holding it on and the top was as healthy looking as the rest of the plants.
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Nice purchase on the madness!! I think you will be pleased! also, just a FYI, I've found that when supercropping, it is best to do it a day after watering when the branches are more flexible and less brittle. Not sure if this would have helped in your case, but figured it was a good suggestion :)
 
Vapedogg223 said:
no, it won't cross them. The grafted branch will just be a different strain than the rest of the plant.

I don't think the cloning could work exactly as described...you need to line up the vascular tissues of two in order for it to take...but maybe I'm wrong, Doc will know! :thumb:
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I second this. I've only grafted citrus, and there are a buzzillion tutorials on Utube on how to do it for those types of plants. The grafted plant is never ahybrid, but you can get fruit from both. I knew someone who had grafted a summer avocado to a winter one, so they had fruit year round.
 
Hi guys,
I just wanted to say thank you for opening my eyes to this style of growing. I was just about to switch my next crop to dwc when I came across Doc's first thread regarding high brix. This totally makes sense, happy soil=happy plants. The seedlings (like 3 weeks in) that are going right now will get some amended soil (GH just right xtra, mixed with promix) and srp when transplanted in a week or so. I may or may not start a journal, if I don't I'll keep one on my pc and just throw it all in a blog when its done. Also I am going to do this grow with clf's just to see how well the high brix is working. Strains: La Musa, purple urkle and blueberry gum.
I'm sure my ladies would say thank you if they could.
Thx again.
Curso
 
Hash Hound said:
I ordered the Madness today.

I inspected the plants earlier and all were 100% healthy looking. Nice rich green color.
One plant we did supercrop a few days ago and cracked it bad. It had maybe an 1/8 of the stem left holding it on and the top was as healthy looking as the rest of the plants.

Question for Doc;

My friend is insistent on us trying grafting. Have you ever done it, and would it actually cross the strains?

a related question to this is and of course we were loaded when thinking of this one is;
If you harvested a plant and cut it and left about 4 or 5 inches of the stalk, cut it nice and even and drill a small hole in it and stick a clone in it. Do you think it would take? It would waste no energy growing a root system and might grow like crazy.
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Grafting doesn't make a lot of sense for us, as our crop is an annual. It's supposed to grow, reproduce and die in a single season. Could it be done? Probably. My question would be why?

Your clone idea is really intriguing! I'm going to speculate on how this would work:

1.)foliage must be left on the host plant. Quite a bit of foliage, but all flowering tops must be cut off.
2.)the clone must be cut in a way that exposes as good deal of cambium, xylum and phloem, the tissue under the bark/skin.
3.)the stump should be split with a sharp knife, spread apart, and the clone pinned in between the cut halves of the stump.

I think it would work! It's a very interesting idea. I'm thinking of a large plant with a huge stem and 5 or 6 tops and "grafting" 5 or 6 strains on to the same plant. Imagine watering one plant, but producing a smorgashboard of weed from a single plant.

That's what I call quality stoner thinking! I love it! What a great gift for the Holidays!

Vapedogg223 said:
Hey bro...not to answer for Doc (as he answers for Doc :scratchinghead:)...but no, it won't cross them. The grafted branch will just be a different strain than the rest of the plant.

I don't think the cloning could work exactly as described...you need to line up the vascular tissues of two in order for it to take...but maybe I'm wrong, Doc will know! :thumb:
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Imagine the "Mother" of all mothers with about 8 of your favorite strains on one plant.

What else is new you may ask? The dilemma of the week of course.

I had a few well established clones ages between 6 -8 weeks old and i put them out on Apr27 13:49 hrs daylight and May15 14:28 hrs and they have already budded. Popcorn buds everywhere.

Normal time for planting gardens in my area is May 31st give or take a week.

Do you think they will start new vegetative growth, or keep budding and filling out?
 
Hash Hound said:
Imagine the "Mother" of all mothers with about 8 of your favorite strains on one plant.
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Oh Yeah! Genius. I'm gonna try it. I'll let an outdoor guy handle your dilemma, but I'd guess it would do both.
 
Hash Hound said:
Imagine the "Mother" of all mothers with about 8 of your favorite strains on one plant.

What else is new you may ask? The dilemma of the week of course.

I had a few well established clones ages between 6 -8 weeks old and i put them out on Apr27 13:49 hrs daylight and May15 14:28 hrs and they have already budded. Popcorn buds everywhere.

Normal time for planting gardens in my area is May 31st give or take a week.

Do you think they will start new vegetative growth, or keep budding and filling out?
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Wow....they must be Indica. I think they'll keep going.

Growing from seeds stops this problem. For the greenhouse grop I pop seeds April 1, or thereabouts, and put them in the greenhouse right around May 15. If the young plants are topped they won't flower for a while.
 
Just got this in...
Hanna_Refractometer.jpg


You're supposed to calibrate it every time you change the battery etc...didn't have any distilled water, so I still have to do that. The girls are in their dark period at the moment anyway, so the only thing I've tested was a drop of Earl Grey tea with honey. :)

I think Icemud recently detailed how he did it...but, I'm wondering if we need to standardize how and/or when Brix readings are taken?
 
Vapedogg223 said:
Just got this in...
Hanna_Refractometer.jpg


You're supposed to calibrate it every time you change the battery etc...didn't have any distilled water, so I still have to do that. The girls are in their dark period at the moment anyway, so the only thing I've tested was a drop of Earl Grey tea with honey. :)

I think Icemud recently detailed how he did it...but, I'm wondering if we need to standardize how and/or when Brix readings are taken?
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Take reading 2 hours before and after a feeding to see the efficacy of the feeding.
Take readings the same time of day to compare brix over time.

But if you hit 20 or above, just smile and roll a fattie.
 
I was reading that the best time to take a brix reading is mid-day around noon. I can't remember where I read that info, but it has something to do with the way the plant produces sugars. I will try to find the article.

I also was reading that when you take a sample, the best and most accurate way to get a reading is to use the juice from the entire leaf. By just squeezing the leaf without grinding it up, it only will release the "newer" juices, but leave in the other's is the way I understood it. So when I take my readings, I am using pliers...way before I take a sample of the juice, I ball up the leaf and crush it a few times, each time pulling the leaf material out, balling it up and repeating the process. When I get a leaf that looks all chewed up, I know that the sample will have a better accuracy in reading the entire leaf's brix... I got that from a youtube video.

As far as where to sample on the plant... I haven't really found the right answer yet... all I was reading was when pulling samples, to make sure to always take from the same area or type of leaf growth.. to keep the best consistency...


On another note...:
I also read an article last night that was saying that plant leaves pull nutrients from foliar sprays in different timeframes, so even though a brix reading can change within 2-24 hours.... some foliar nutrients may take days if not weeks to fully be utilized by the plant leaves... to this makes me wonder when is the exact best time to take readings.... Another thing I am getting conflicting info on is how often to foliar spray.... I have read 3-4 times for the entire growing cycle...some are doing it weekly, some are doing it daily... but I don't know what is the best for the high brix focus...any thoughts..?

I hope you don't mind me posting all my findings about high brix here...it seems this is a great place to get all the High brix info, all in one place... :)
Rates of Nutrients Absorption into Plant Tissue (9, 10, 18, 27)
Nutrient Time for 50% Absorption
Nitrogen (as urea) 1/2 - 2 hours
Phosphorus 5 - 10 days
Potassium 10 - 24 hours
Calcium 1 - 2 days
Magnesium 2 - 5 hours
Sulfur 8 days
Zinc 1 - 2 days
Manganese 1 - 2 days
Iron 10 - 20 days
Molybdenum 10 - 20 days

Meteorological Conditions Favoring Foliar Applications
Time of Day: late evening; after 6:00 p.m.
early morning; before 9:00 a.m.
Temperature: 65-85½ F; 70½ ideal
Humidity: greater than 70% relative humidity
Temperature/Humidity Index: 140-160
Wind Speed: less than 5 mph
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pulled from PDF...very good info for helping us get the right foliar applications...
 
I just found on What is Brix? | HighBrix Gardens

this:

What part of the plant is used for taking a brix reading? Whatever part you eat if it is ripe. If it is not ripe take the most recent mature leaves that have had full sunlight for at least 2 hours. Ideally measurements should be taken at the same time of day as you compare throughout the growing season.
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Curso said:
Sry to but in on this again but....Ice did you happen to look at the product line that link you posted sells?
They have a feeding schedule for the sprays.
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I've definitely looked into those...they are the same ones that Doc is using.
 
I just finished my weekly tea watering and made an interesting observation. I have yellowing on all of my leaves. Whats interesting is it's on all of my plants...inside/outside, big pots/smaller pots, mmj/tomatoes/peppers/ strawberries/watermelon, fruiting stage/veg. The only thing that's the same is the weekly teas. I usually brew up a big batch and water them all with the same thing. Not sure what this means if anything????

On a positive note....my tomatoes taste amazing!!!!!!
 
MsMe said:
I just finished my weekly tea watering and made an interesting observation. I have yellowing on all of my leaves. Whats interesting is it's on all of my plants...inside/outside, big pots/smaller pots, mmj/tomatoes/peppers/ strawberries/watermelon, fruiting stage/veg. The only thing that's the same is the weekly teas. I usually brew up a big batch and water them all with the same thing. Not sure what this means if anything????

On a positive note....my tomatoes taste amazing!!!!!!
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What kind of tea are you using and how are you brewing it?

One thing that can happen is that the tea is so full of hungry microbes it can eat up all the energy in your soil.
 
I'm using Nature's Own Tea. I'm brewing and diluting according to directions. The interesting part is that it's happening with everything and they are all so different. :confused: and I find that odd.

I've added some EWC and molasses. I've avoided fish products so far because with my prior fish experiences the smell is so bad I almost can't stand it. Going to look for something, fish, manure, whatever that doesn't make me want to hurl!!!!
 
MsMe said:
I'm using Nature's Own Tea. I'm brewing and diluting according to directions. The interesting part is that it's happening with everything and they are all so different. :confused: and I find that odd.

I've added some EWC and molasses. I've avoided fish products so far because with my prior fish experiences the smell is so bad I almost can't stand it. Going to look for something, fish, manure, whatever that doesn't make me want to hurl!!!!
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I totally hear you on the smell. Rancid fishy, sewer smell. Yuck.

Good ferts that aren't so over powering are composted chicken manure, Alfalfa meal, very weak Bat guano recipe's....very weak. Also Biosol Forte is a very interesting product. No salts and time released only by microbes.

OK....yellowing of the leaves post tea application. I've had this happen and they usually straighten out. It usually happened after a feeding or possibly over watering, but it will come back around.

I recently learned of an Epsom salt foliar flush, which I have done twice now with good success. I did one last week and just soaked the hell out of top and botom of the leaves. There was noticeable perkiness the next day and then on the 3rd day I hit them with Amaze. They got all twisted up for a couple hours and are now back to being true specimens. I'll get some pics tomorrow or the next day....

Anyways, that tea is so much more alive and potent than the other stuff I've seen, so it could have gobbled up all the food in the soil. A gentle feeding might be good, as well as a good foliar feed.
 
I am subd, so much info, I will have to read more later, only read the first few. I am too tired from hugging my garden all day.:peace::Love::MoreNutes::lot-o-toke:
 
Great work from everyone here
Even us beginners seem to be catching on quick thanks to some very knowledgable growers in here.
Great to see everyone trying to pull together and find a base line for everyone to start from.

Smooth
 
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