GiGaBaNE's 3rd & Final Journal - At Least Until I Change Country

GiGaBaNE said:
this?


The cfls are standard size 23 watt 6500k. the T5 is a growlux bulb that looks purple because it is a growing bulb, it emits much more red and blue and less normal lumens (more efficient)
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Thanks for that, for my space I would have to make a bespoke bank, not sure I understand about wattage, if I want to replace 600w CFL, wouldd I need 600w T5?
 
the lighting for autos is always a bonus, this time round im going with 24-0, some say they wont start to flower under 24-0 but other say they do, so im giving this a try, last time my auto showed sex at 2 weeks so if i dont see anything after 3 weeks ill give it 12 hours of dark to start the flower process then it will go back under 24-0 till finish, this auto ive been harvesting is under 24-0.

if you come across x check his auto journal out, he is the one with the big bang auto and recommended it to me, problems is it was out of stock when i checked so this says to me that it lives up to its claims, x grew more than 1 and got over 4oz per plant, so it wasnt a one off sort of thing, plus another grower got the same results so it should be a nice stable strain, the problem is my flower room is full now so couldnt fit a big auto in their for a few weeks, so even if i did get the seeds id need to set up a new room just for the auto, but these smaller autos can be moved about and put in my smaller veg room which is running cfls at 24-0 so it makes it easier for me, plus when i have room i put the autos in the flower room while the hps is on and then back under the cfls when the lights go off,
 
If you're looking for an easy cash crop, cream caramel autos from a spanish seed bank (sweet seeds), finishes 8 weeks after first sign of flower and I averaged 4oz a plant under glass using chilli nutes, so if you use all the bells and whistles now available, and research how to slow down start of flowering I am sure you would have a nice quick crop of some really heady rich caramely meds, Autos are fantastic greenhouse crop, easy to get at least 2 harvests a summer without interrupting the top end of the business

The rudaralis grows where there is a very short but intense summer, and is not sensitive to day length but talking to Tommy at the seed house, they do not start life flowering, so maybe keeping light very minimal the plant will have time to veg, or, as I have read on another site where autos are more common, full blast with all the top end lights 24/7.

Cream Caramel is a very luxurious smoke
 
ajagunle said:
Thanks for that, for my space I would have to make a bespoke bank, not sure I understand about wattage, if I want to replace 600w CFL, wouldd I need 600w T5?
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the house cfl's and the t5 strip lights come in similar wattages ie 20 watt 30 watt sort of range.

so to replace 600 watt worth of small cfls you would need 30 x 20watt light strips....but since you can get them like 5 ft long, that 1 array could feed two or three plants ( a roof of 6 lights and 2 walls of 12 lights) and throw in some reflectives in the gaps and there isnt much of that light not producing mj =)

Edit: most of the heat in this configuration is external to the plant area, the ballasts inside the fixtures get hot but at the dark face more than the side with the light fitted, external fans would cool this, wouldnt need much internal cooling.
 
hey GiGaBaNe, i just put an air layering guide up on my journal, have a read when you get chance and let me know how it compares to what you did, i want to give it a try but thought id find out what you did different compared to the guide i got out my book, be interesting to compare the 2 so when i try it i can try and avoid any problems that you may of come across
 
ok guys i promise i will do an update tommorow, but i have a question pretty please.
im a bit weaker on house electrics than i am with computers....a little hesitent to dive in and give it a go when i can be cooked if i get it wrong, lol.


can someone please post me an answer with pretty little pictures showing the key items e.t.c

i want to put 4 srtip lights on a wooden panel that is a side wall of a COT

what i need help with is how to have the 4 wired go into a box on the back side of the panel and out the other end of the box is a single wire to the plug socket.

a Bonus question...

same thing, but with 5 outlets and th fifth one powering 8x12V PC fans.


please help guys...if i crack this i can make 'light walls' that i can move about at ease.

i think that it will run 8x 32 watt bulbs(256w without fans) i will assume a total load of 400 wats per panel. i think thats less than a 2 amp draw per wall on a UK 240(220)V supply.
 
I'm not on your side of the pond, maybe someone there would be a better idea. I might miss a metric conversion or something crazy.

But I am willing to help you figure it out. I used to be a licensed electrician here in the states. Are they two wires plus ground (3 total) or 3 wires plus ground (4 total)?
 
Heirloom said:
I'm not on your side of the pond, maybe someone there would be a better idea. I might miss a metric conversion or something crazy.

But I am willing to help you figure it out. I used to be a licensed electrician here in the states. Are they two wires plus ground (3 total) or 3 wires plus ground (4 total)?
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their apliances areon 240volts ares 110
 
OK, here's how I would do it:

2 amps is not much. So you can use an old extension cord or something with your plug in (to the wall) all ready on it. An old (or new) extension cord will give you lots of cord to reach outlets you never thought you would have to use.

x1 extension cord
x2 double gang boxes
x1 light switch (rated appropriately)
X1 double gang box blank cover
x1 double gang box cover with light switch cutout
x1 duplex outlet
hand full wire connectors.


1) Cut the female plug off the extension cord
2) Strip the outer jacket off the cord, 5-6 inches....sorry about 12cm-15cm should do. Then strip the wires back a little over 1cm each.
3) Assuming you have already wired and mounted the lights on the board, and mounted your box (I would use two double gang boxes, I will explain), it's time to wire it all up

I'm off to draw pictures with windows crayons now......
 
3 prong plugs, brown is the live and goes to the fuse inside the plug, earth goes to the top pin in the plug, most things dont use an earth wire though unless their high amps or risk of danger, so check if you lights have 3 wires or 2, if their 3 then they need the earth wire so it would be 3 wires in total, if it only has 2 wires going to the lights then its just a live and neutral
 
My vision......





The extension cord goes in the box with the light switch and outlets. One leg (check your local codes or maybe another member can tell you which leg to switch) get immediately put on the switch, hot or neutral. Again I'm not going to tell you one or the other, it may be a code thing. So the switch will control the panel as a whole, outlets and lights. From the switch you wire the one leg, plus the other two legs to the outlet. Out from the outlet is the jumper to the second gang box, where all your splices from the strip lights go. Inside use wire nuts (that's what we yanks call them) to make all your splices. Just make sure all your hots, neutrals and earths are together with their like kind. Don't forget to connect the boxes to earth as well.

EDIT: Then with the outlets you can plug in a suitable DC converter to power those fans.
 
donpaul.p said:
3 prong plugs, brown is the live and goes to the fuse inside the plug, earth goes to the top pin in the plug, most things dont use an earth wire though unless their high amps or risk of danger, so check if you lights have 3 wires or 2, if their 3 then they need the earth wire so it would be 3 wires in total, if it only has 2 wires going to the lights then its just a live and neutral
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Most of the stuff that doesnt have an earth is using something called 'double insulated' but im not totally sure how that works.
 
Heirloom said:
My vision......





The extension cord goes in the box with the light switch and outlets. One leg (check your local codes or maybe another member can tell you which leg to switch) get immediately put on the switch, hot or neutral. Again I'm not going to tell you one or the other, it may be a code thing. So the switch will control the panel as a whole, outlets and lights. From the switch you wire the one leg, plus the other two legs to the outlet. Out from the outlet is the jumper to the second gang box, where all your splices from the strip lights go. Inside use wire nuts (that's what we yanks call them) to make all your splices. Just make sure all your hots, neutrals and earths are together with their like kind. Don't forget to connect the boxes to earth as well.

EDIT: Then with the outlets you can plug in a suitable DC converter to power those fans.
Click to expand...

thank bro, you pretty much hit the nail on the head....

but that ganger box on the right, its the wiring inside that that is the only thing i need to know ;)
 
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