GeoFlora Nutrients Discussion Thread

[Keffka]

Yeah they just kept growing!!

If I’m gonna have a problem that’s the one I want lol. I wound up having to super crop 3 weeks after flipping my light last time I had that issue.. They rebounded overnight though and still produced great. Good luck!

 

[CBDMed]

I’ll send you a PM because yeah, this convo hasn’t even gotten truly uncomfortable yet and it’s already way off topic

R.O.F.L!! Ok, ttyt!

I read about the technique in True Living Organics by The Rev and in a few of the Teaming With books by Jeff Lowenfels. Basically putting stripes/casts/piles/etc of nutrients/amendments on the bottom and top of the container in a spot that the plants roots can find on its own instead of being dropped right onto them.

Ahhh, ok! If I understand, put soil for spreader roots, and soil for deep feeder (tap) roots? Is that accurate?

On the bottom I will use a half tbsp per gallon of a high N blend as well as half tbsp per gallon of a Veg blend like Geoflora Veg. In plastic containers I would put this right on the floor of the container before anything else. In fabric containers I lay down a thin layer of my soil mix then the nutrient blends, then continue filling.

I am trying to visualize what you are saying. Do you sort of pre-mix the GeoFlora into the soil, and then that extra amount of nutes means you don't need to uppot as soon?
But there are two different layers, upper and lower?
And how thick are the layers?

For my top layer.. I use half tsp per gallon of my high N blend and half tsp per gallon of the Geoflora blend. I sprinkle this layer on top halfway between the transplant rootball and the edge of the new container. This layer goes directly under the mulch layer.

Ahh, ok. I think this means you do this each time you up-pot.
How thick is this top layer?

I use both of these layers in a veg container, then do the same for my flowering container but I switch up the blends for more flower focused stuff. I do this to give the plant access to more powerful nutrients it can essentially mine on its own.

Makes total sense.

This prevents the soil from being too hot for the plants, or causing drastic PH swings as the nutrients decompose, while letting the plants decide when they want to take what I’ve given.

Yeah, sorry, I am still trying to visualize how you layer your Plant Parfait, haha.

If I were to try to mix these extra nutrients globally into the soil it would overwhelm the plants, cause wild fluctuations that would make it inhospitable for bacteria and fungi, and would overall create an environment not friendly to growth, especially in the limited space of a container.

But because you only do this while up-potting, you can do this in lieu of fertilizing, and it buys you more time in smaller pots?

When I lay it down in layers or spikes it confines it to a specific spot and gives the plants time to ease into it. They seem to absolutely love it. It also helps me get extra time in smaller containers before the plants start showing issues.

Well, it sounds like you are going for strong root growth, in any case.
What is your target pot size?
And are these regulars, autos, indica, sativa, indoor, outdoor?

The smaller my container is, the more powerful I go with the nutrient blends. The larger the container the easier I am with them.

Hmmm.... I am not sure I understand why. I would think that a younger plant would be more tender, while an older plant would be able to handle more, just like teenagers are more resilient (generally speaking) than children. Did I miss something somewhere?
Ok. So it sounds like you lay down different "warm" soils that the roots can grow into as they need, to gain more time in smaller pots. Is that accurate?
And is the top soil intended for spreader roots, while the bottom soil is geared for tap roots (or is deep feeder roots a better term)?
I am trying to conceptualize what you are doing, and I can think of a few different possibilities. Is it wrong to think of it like a modification of Subcool's Supersoil, where you have a relatively hot layer on the bottom of the grow bag, and then a normal layer in the top 2/3 of the bag, except that both of your layers are mildly warm, just geared for different things?
Or am I missing it?

Got to run. End of the week is tough for me. I hope to catch up the start of next week. (PM me anytime, but it might be Sunday before I can get back to you, accountability buddy.)

 

[Keffka]

You sorta got it lol.. It’s my fault, I was loose with my descriptions.

Ahhh, ok! If I understand, put soil for spreader roots, and soil for deep feeder (tap) roots? Is that accurate?

I use a base mix. This is usually a good quality bagged soil like FFOF. I then mix in a few amendments like blood, bone, fish bone, and kelp meal. I also add in gypsum, Dolomite lime, soft rock phosphate, oyster shell, green sand, coco, perlite, and EWC. I’m sure there’s a few others I’m forgetting but that’s the basics. It’s a weaker version of subcools recipe. This allows me to cook up a batch in 30 days as opposed to having to wait a few months like with subcools recipe.

That is my base mix. It’s what I fill my containers with. Here’s an image of what the layers look like in theory:

The 2.1 soil mix it refers to in the image is my base mix I just described. This image has stuff I don’t use but it gives you a visual. I don’t use a middle layer.. I use just the bottom and top. On the image this is the spot that says blood meal 1-2 tsp (or high nitrogen blend)

So in my containers starting at the very top it goes:

Mulch
High N blend with Geoflora
Top layer (soil base mix cut with EWC)
Base mix
High N blend with Geoflora on the floor of the container

The High N blend and Geoflora get mixed together. I then sprinkle them on to the floor of the container. I then put my base mix in. Then when I transplant into that container, I put a little soft rock phosphate into the transplant hole. I then put down an inch or so layer of perlite in the hole then I put my rootball in it. Once my root ball is in the container I put the Top layer down which is the base mix cut with EWC. Then on top of that I sprinkle the High N blend with the Geoflora. I put it right on top of the soil, halfway between the root ball and the edge of the container. Then I put mulch down to finish the transplant.

am trying to visualize what you are saying. Do you sort of pre-mix the GeoFlora into the soil, and then that extra amount of nutes means you don't need to uppot as soon?
But there are two different layers, upper and lower?
And how thick are the layers?

The layers of fertilizers aren’t very thick at all. It’s a poor choice of words but that’s how I was taught so I’m stuck referring to it like that while I try to figure out a better way of wording it lol. The extra nutrients allow the plants to stay in smaller containers for longer without stressing out as much.

Ahh, ok. I think this means you do this each time you up-pot.
How thick is this top layer?

Yes. Each container I transplant into will get some sort of fertilizer blend sprinkled on to the floor then again on the very top of the soil below the mulch. The fertilizer layers aren’t thick however the Top Layer I referred to that is the base mix cut with EWC is usually about an inch or two depending on the container size.

But because you only do this while up-potting, you can do this in lieu of fertilizing, and it buys you more time in smaller pots?

Correct. It sort of like putting little resource mines into the container. The roots will get to the fertilizers and will begin to tap the resources there.

Well, it sounds like you are going for strong root growth, in any case.
What is your target pot size?
And are these regulars, autos, indica, sativa, indoor, outdoor?

I usually always want at least a one gallon rootball before I go to my flower container. I try for strong root growth but my main concern is making sure the bacteria and fungi are playing nice. If I can make sure they’re happy, everything else takes care of itself.

I will be going into 10 gallon fabric pots for my flower container. I go 2-3 weeks in a solo cup then 2-4 weeks in a 1 or 2 gallon then 2-3 weeks in the 10 gallon before I flip them to flower. Which leads to my next answer which is these are photoperiod plants. Indica hybrids and one sativa hybrid. The indicas are organically bred and raised using very similar soil and techniques to what I am doing. Blue Thai (indica hybrid), Apple Betty and Runtz Punch. The Runtz Punch is actually showing a three finger pheno which excites me. I haven’t come across a three finger pheno before and have been told they can be incredibly powerful.

I am growing these indoors. I am limited on height (5 feet max for the plants themselves) so I will be manifolding these plants to keep them low. Even though they’re indicas, a 10 gallon container can still push them higher than I can allow.

Hmmm.... I am not sure I understand why. I would think that a younger plant would be more tender, while an older plant would be able to handle more, just like teenagers are more resilient (generally speaking) than children. Did I miss something somewhere?

I’ll clarify a bit. Because I lay the fertilizers in specific spots inside the container the young plants won’t be in contact with the nutrients before they’re ready. Putting them away from the root ball gives the plants roots time to stretch out and find the fertilizers. When it finds the fertilizers it will slowly begin to move its roots toward it feeding on the nutrients at its own pace. This allows me to use very powerful fertilizers that if mixed globally into the soil would overwhelm the plant. However because the fertilizers are located in specific spots the plant can ease its way into using them.

These extra nutrients allow me to flower a plant in a 2-3 gallon container if I like without having to worry about deficiencies or stress. If I were to flower in one of these smaller containers I would put more powerful blends of fertilizers in those specific spots so the plants would have plenty of nutrients to make it through the grow. The smaller my container is, the more powerful I need the fertilizers to be so that they can carry the plant through flower. The larger my container is the less powerful my nutrients need to be because the plant can get more of its nutrition from the soil itself.

Normally in these blends I would use an all purpose fertilizer or a veg specific fertilizer mixed alongside of my other amendments. If it’s a flower container I use flower specific fertilizer mixed with the amendments. This time instead of using all purpose or some other fertilizer I decided to use the Geoflora. I like a good granulated fertilizer for this purpose and Geoflora fits that description while also containing a lot of the same amendments I already use.

It’s already looking really good

 

[GeoFlora Nutrients]

Hey guys, I just wanted to address your concerns!

First, some info: as Rob already mentioned, Geoflora is not the same company as GeoPot or Rhizoflora. We're a sister company to GeoPot, and we used to be a sister company to Rhizoflora, but Rhizoflora (which has Terpinator and Purpinator) was sold to Hawthorne a while ago. Geoflora and GeoPot remain unchanged under the Left Coast Wholesale parent company.

Geoflora's website was down due to tech issues and updates for a few days, but it's back up, so currently Geoflora and GeoPot's websites are NOT down. If you'd like to contact, purchase, or learn more about these products you can visit us at www.geofloranutrients.com and you can visit GeoPot at www.geopot.com

We're not experiencing financial issues. Our management team made a decision to shift our marketing approach to focus on other priorities, and while we have enjoyed participating in the program and meeting so many incredible growers, 420 prizes were ultimately cut from our marketing plan. That said, prizes for June and July are going out shortly. We will honor prize winners for June and July but going forward we will no longer be participating.

Thanks for understanding! Please let me know if you have any more questions. We're not checking 420 mag as much as we used to due to other company needs, but if you find you're not getting a response and you need one quickly, we check our email contact@geofloranutrients.com daily.

Best,
the Geoflora Team

 

[StoneOtter]

Thanks @GeoFlora Nutrients ! Good to hear we can get your sweet feed and it's still you!

 

[Ramblinrose1965]

High all,

I just finished reading all 29 pages of this post and gathered some great insight about the GF line. I just completed my second and final run with FFOF and their bottled nutes.
Lucy and Bertha are just popping and my GF should be here tomorrow. Im still going to use Ocean forest as my medium with GF supplements.....I am drooling with excitement to see the results.

Thank you all very very much for all the info.

Grow well my friends

 

[Evergreen89]

What’s the discount code?

 

[Savvage61]

What’s the discount code?

try 420mag or 420magazine

 

[Hawk518]

Looks like there's a sale over at GeoFLora: Geoflora BLOOM 3-5-4 Organic Flowering Fertilizer.
I just used the 420Magazine discount code and got free shipping!
Thank you @GeoFlora Nutrients !!

 

[CBDMed]

You sorta got it lol.. It’s my fault, I was loose with my descriptions.

Sorry for any delay. A marathon week. I am not done but I am checking in.

I use a base mix. This is usually a good quality bagged soil like FFOF. I then mix in a few amendments like blood, bone, fish bone, and kelp meal. I also add in gypsum, Dolomite lime, soft rock phosphate, oyster shell, green sand, coco, perlite, and EWC. I’m sure there’s a few others I’m forgetting but that’s the basics. It’s a weaker version of subcools recipe. This allows me to cook up a batch in 30 days as opposed to having to wait a few months like with subcools recipe.

I think I understand what you are saying. I am not sure why a weak Subcools would cook up faster than a strong one, but that is way OT for this thread.
Thanks for explaining your base mix.
Also, if you add blood meal, etc., my understanding is that it needs to cook (a la subcool's).
Are you cooking your base mix, and then adding more blood meal (etc.) that (still) needs to cook??

That is my base mix. It’s what I fill my containers with. Here’s an image of what the layers look like in theory:

The 2.1 soil mix it refers to in the image is my base mix I just described. This image has stuff I don’t use but it gives you a visual. I don’t use a middle layer.. I use just the bottom and top. On the image this is the spot that says blood meal 1-2 tsp (or high nitrogen blend)

So in my containers starting at the very top it goes:

Mulch
High N blend with Geoflora
Top layer (soil base mix cut with EWC)
Base mix
High N blend with Geoflora on the floor of the container

The High N blend and Geoflora get mixed together. I then sprinkle them on to the floor of the container. I then put my base mix in. Then when I transplant into that container, I put a little soft rock phosphate into the transplant hole. I then put down an inch or so layer of perlite in the hole then I put my rootball in it. Once my root ball is in the container I put the Top layer down which is the base mix cut with EWC. Then on top of that I sprinkle the High N blend with the Geoflora. I put it right on top of the soil, halfway between the root ball and the edge of the container. Then I put mulch down to finish the transplant.

Yeah, I think I see what you are doing.
The visual was a big help, thanks.
It sounds like you are cooking your base mix, and then adding uncooked ferts into the pot?

The layers of fertilizers aren’t very thick at all. It’s a poor choice of words but that’s how I was taught so I’m stuck referring to it like that while I try to figure out a better way of wording it lol. The extra nutrients allow the plants to stay in smaller containers for longer without stressing out as much.

Yeah.
Interesting.

Yes. Each container I transplant into will get some sort of fertilizer blend sprinkled on to the floor then again on the very top of the soil below the mulch. The fertilizer layers aren’t thick however the Top Layer I referred to that is the base mix cut with EWC is usually about an inch or two depending on the container size.

Got it. Thanks.

Correct. It sort of like putting little resource mines into the container. The roots will get to the fertilizers and will begin to tap the resources there.

I usually always want at least a one gallon rootball before I go to my flower container. I try for strong root growth but my main concern is making sure the bacteria and fungi are playing nice. If I can make sure they’re happy, everything else takes care of itself.

I will be going into 10 gallon fabric pots for my flower container. I go 2-3 weeks in a solo cup then 2-4 weeks in a 1 or 2 gallon then 2-3 weeks in the 10 gallon before I flip them to flower. Which leads to my next answer which is these are photoperiod plants. Indica hybrids and one sativa hybrid. The indicas are organically bred and raised using very similar soil and techniques to what I am doing. Blue Thai (indica hybrid), Apple Betty and Runtz Punch. The Runtz Punch is actually showing a three finger pheno which excites me. I haven’t come across a three finger pheno before and have been told they can be incredibly powerful.

I’ll clarify a bit. Because I lay the fertilizers in specific spots inside the container the young plants won’t be in contact with the nutrients before they’re ready. Putting them away from the root ball gives the plants roots time to stretch out and find the fertilizers. When it finds the fertilizers it will slowly begin to move its roots toward it feeding on the nutrients at its own pace. This allows me to use very powerful fertilizers that if mixed globally into the soil would overwhelm the plant. However because the fertilizers are located in specific spots the plant can ease its way into using them.

These extra nutrients allow me to flower a plant in a 2-3 gallon container if I like without having to worry about deficiencies or stress. If I were to flower in one of these smaller containers I would put more powerful blends of fertilizers in those specific spots so the plants would have plenty of nutrients to make it through the grow. The smaller my container is, the more powerful I need the fertilizers to be so that they can carry the plant through flower. The larger my container is the less powerful my nutrients need to be because the plant can get more of its nutrition from the soil itself.

Normally in these blends I would use an all purpose fertilizer or a veg specific fertilizer mixed alongside of my other amendments. If it’s a flower container I use flower specific fertilizer mixed with the amendments. This time instead of using all purpose or some other fertilizer I decided to use the Geoflora. I like a good granulated fertilizer for this purpose and Geoflora fits that description while also containing a lot of the same amendments I already use.

It’s already looking really good

 

[DrDave1956]

I went to the grow store today an of course they are out of my go to Promix Organic.
SO I bought a bag of Coast of Maine Stonington Blend Growers Mix $24 for 1.5qft ay whata yougonna do

Anyone used it yet with or without the GF?

I'm currently growing one plant in a 3x3 using Stonington: Skywalker OG under a Mars Hydro TSW3000 (450w), 10 gallon cloth pot.

I also use the Stonington Organic Plant Food, CoM's Fish Bone Meal during flower, their castings and their liquid Squid. They've got a detailed feeding schedule that I follow because it works well.

I've had a goal of growing 1 pound from 1 seed and I think this one does it. At day 50 of flower, it's got 2-3 weeks left.

 

[StoneOtter]

Geoflora Rocks!

IMG_0294.jpeg

• StoneOtter
• Aug 22, 2023

Cherries DubeLee

IMG_0293.jpeg

• StoneOtter
• Aug 22, 2023

ILKWA

 

[Mr. Krip]

Geoflora Rocks!

IMG_0294.jpeg

• StoneOtter
• Aug 22, 2023

Cherries DubeLee

IMG_0293.jpeg

• StoneOtter
• Aug 22, 2023

ILKWA

 

[Ramblinrose1965]

Good morning peeps,
I have a question.....When top dressing with geoflora do i leave the product on the surface and water in or do I massage it into the soil and then water it in?

My two girls Bertha and Lucy and I appreciate any feedback.

Thanks all

 

[Hash Hound]

I would say you need to scratch it in a bit.
Since I'm watering via swick I've been experimenting with "well" dressing. I push a utensil handle about 6 or 8 inches into the soil x2 and put a third of the GF in each and top dress scratch in the remaining third into the top of the soil.

these are at 4 weeks, so far so good. They are swicking up half gallon a day

my Widow from seed

P206 W41.3 w4b.JPG

• Hash Hound
• Sep 9, 2023

Widow from seed

my cross of Ghost Train Haze x my Widow

P205 GTW w4b.JPG

• Hash Hound
• Sep 9, 2023

my Ghost Train Widow

 

[DrDave1956]

You sorta got it lol.. It’s my fault, I was loose with my descriptions.



I use a base mix. This is usually a good quality bagged soil like FFOF. I then mix in a few amendments like blood, bone, fish bone, and kelp meal. I also add in gypsum, Dolomite lime, soft rock phosphate, oyster shell, green sand, coco, perlite, and EWC. I’m sure there’s a few others I’m forgetting but that’s the basics. It’s a weaker version of subcools recipe. This allows me to cook up a batch in 30 days as opposed to having to wait a few months like with subcools recipe.

That is my base mix. It’s what I fill my containers with. Here’s an image of what the layers look like in theory:

The 2.1 soil mix it refers to in the image is my base mix I just described. This image has stuff I don’t use but it gives you a visual. I don’t use a middle layer.. I use just the bottom and top. On the image this is the spot that says blood meal 1-2 tsp (or high nitrogen blend)

So in my containers starting at the very top it goes:

Mulch
High N blend with Geoflora
Top layer (soil base mix cut with EWC)
Base mix
High N blend with Geoflora on the floor of the container

The High N blend and Geoflora get mixed together. I then sprinkle them on to the floor of the container. I then put my base mix in. Then when I transplant into that container, I put a little soft rock phosphate into the transplant hole. I then put down an inch or so layer of perlite in the hole then I put my rootball in it. Once my root ball is in the container I put the Top layer down which is the base mix cut with EWC. Then on top of that I sprinkle the High N blend with the Geoflora. I put it right on top of the soil, halfway between the root ball and the edge of the container. Then I put mulch down to finish the transplant.




The layers of fertilizers aren’t very thick at all. It’s a poor choice of words but that’s how I was taught so I’m stuck referring to it like that while I try to figure out a better way of wording it lol. The extra nutrients allow the plants to stay in smaller containers for longer without stressing out as much.



Yes. Each container I transplant into will get some sort of fertilizer blend sprinkled on to the floor then again on the very top of the soil below the mulch. The fertilizer layers aren’t thick however the Top Layer I referred to that is the base mix cut with EWC is usually about an inch or two depending on the container size.



Correct. It sort of like putting little resource mines into the container. The roots will get to the fertilizers and will begin to tap the resources there.



I usually always want at least a one gallon rootball before I go to my flower container. I try for strong root growth but my main concern is making sure the bacteria and fungi are playing nice. If I can make sure they’re happy, everything else takes care of itself.

I will be going into 10 gallon fabric pots for my flower container. I go 2-3 weeks in a solo cup then 2-4 weeks in a 1 or 2 gallon then 2-3 weeks in the 10 gallon before I flip them to flower. Which leads to my next answer which is these are photoperiod plants. Indica hybrids and one sativa hybrid. The indicas are organically bred and raised using very similar soil and techniques to what I am doing. Blue Thai (indica hybrid), Apple Betty and Runtz Punch. The Runtz Punch is actually showing a three finger pheno which excites me. I haven’t come across a three finger pheno before and have been told they can be incredibly powerful.

I am growing these indoors. I am limited on height (5 feet max for the plants themselves) so I will be manifolding these plants to keep them low. Even though they’re indicas, a 10 gallon container can still push them higher than I can allow.



I’ll clarify a bit. Because I lay the fertilizers in specific spots inside the container the young plants won’t be in contact with the nutrients before they’re ready. Putting them away from the root ball gives the plants roots time to stretch out and find the fertilizers. When it finds the fertilizers it will slowly begin to move its roots toward it feeding on the nutrients at its own pace. This allows me to use very powerful fertilizers that if mixed globally into the soil would overwhelm the plant. However because the fertilizers are located in specific spots the plant can ease its way into using them.

These extra nutrients allow me to flower a plant in a 2-3 gallon container if I like without having to worry about deficiencies or stress. If I were to flower in one of these smaller containers I would put more powerful blends of fertilizers in those specific spots so the plants would have plenty of nutrients to make it through the grow. The smaller my container is, the more powerful I need the fertilizers to be so that they can carry the plant through flower. The larger my container is the less powerful my nutrients need to be because the plant can get more of its nutrition from the soil itself.

Normally in these blends I would use an all purpose fertilizer or a veg specific fertilizer mixed alongside of my other amendments. If it’s a flower container I use flower specific fertilizer mixed with the amendments. This time instead of using all purpose or some other fertilizer I decided to use the Geoflora. I like a good granulated fertilizer for this purpose and Geoflora fits that description while also containing a lot of the same amendments I already use.

It’s already looking really good

I germinate in Peat pellets and transfer the seedling to its permanent 10 gallon home as soon as the tap root exits the bottom of the pellet. Ths helps the tap root seek the bottom of the pot and when that occurs ot begins to double back and create its root ball. Never understood why some folks bother to up pot. Here's a pic post harvest of the training I gave that plant.

 

[StoneOtter]

I germinate in Peat pellets and transfer the seedling to its permanent 10 gallon home as soon as the tap root exits the bottom of the pellet. Ths helps the tap root seek the bottom of the pot and when that occurs ot begins to double back and create its root ball. Never understood why some folks bother to up pot. Here's a pic post harvest of the training I gave that plant.

That's a nice rack of bones Dr! Do you have a journal? I'd like to watch you do that!

 

[DrDave1956]

That's a nice rack of bones Dr! Do you have a journal? I'd like to watch you do that!

StoneOtter - I'm sorry but I'm growing organically in living soil. All I do is water and occasionally amend so I don't bother keeping grow journals. I got a full pound of Skywalker OG off that rack.

I begin tying down branches from the plant's center to the edge of the pot about a week after the last topping. It's important to choose an anchor point on the opposing side of bend so you don't split the stem. Tie in the anchor before making the bend. Pic below was taken immediately after the first tie-down. You can see how the canopy developed.

 

[Ramblinrose1965]

Looking good Hashhound and thanks for the input.
Cheers

 

[Ramblinrose1965]

Heres my two girls.....Lucy and Bertha.