Yeah, I got nothing on the other one.Thanks Azimuth. (Way to pick the easy question!)
GDB's Express Grow
- Thread starter Grand Daddy Black
- Start date
How do you calibrate your hygrometers. I use a salt buffer at 75%. I bought some of those cheap ones and they were all over the place.
And how does one calibrate them using a salt buffer?
- Thread starter
- #904
I don't BudMan.
I've heard of some putting them in a jar with a 62RH Boveda and marking on them +/- however far they read from 62. I choose not to go through that.
I have a "good" hygrometer. (Translation: One that I paid a bit more money for.) When my jar-sized ones are not in use, I set them on the same table as the good one. If they're within +/- 1 of the reading on the "good" one I just assume they're okay. Those that are not okay get tossed.
I also keep on hand an ample supply of those little button-sized batteries they require. I put in new ones whenever the displays begin to fade. My thought is that at least some of the deviation folks get from them is related to weak batteries.
In a sealed container, put a dish of salt. Add a few drops of water to the salt. You want wet salt, not salt water. Seal everything up it should read 75% rh. My Govees were within 2%. Some of those cheap hygrometers were 10-15% off.
Not understanding the question, I'll have to ask you to phrase it differently please?
No Pain
Well-Known Member
Alrighty ...first not all Hygrometers are built the same ..i bought a pack of 6 one time and put them in some bags with some new boveda packs and these thing where all over the place im talking like reading 5% rh deference between them and not even close to what my boveda pack was ..so i suggest you check it .. Second yes the sweat spot for curing is 58-60 % rh . all the above is why i love Grove bags ...just check the moisture level of the buds and get it to the right amount before snipping and bagging them and you are done ..no meter, no burping necessary. The only thing that is required is the paitence to let them dry to the correct moisture level .
Now in regards to your dehumidifier water ...If it has a drain line and the line stays clear everything is good in the garden and feel free to use it ...if the line develops a fiilm inside it means that something is in the air in your garden and me personally I wouldn't use it .
Now as far as what to add ..you need add regular doses of everything as the water should be stripped of any nutrients . As its water that is evaporated off of coils and should test out like distilled water .
Hope this helps @Grand Daddy Black
Hi No Pain,
Do you measure the moisture content of the bud before bagging it, or do you go by rule of thumb? I have been wanting to try grove bags for a while. I have just read that in order for the grove bags to work, the bud must be dried to .45 w moisture level or below. I am not familiar with that measurement.
- Thread starter
- #909
If the sweet spot is 58-60 RH why does Boveda make 62RH packs as if that's where you want them to stay? That's a rhetorical question. I don't expect you to answer for Boveda.
Anyway, I read a few articles today that stated the sweet spot for curing is between 55-60RH. There doesn't seem to be a lot of certainty about exactly where the sweet spot is!
You're the only person who tried to answer the question. So thanks for that!
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
Some smokers prefer a "wetter" product @62%, I find mine smokes/grinds better @ 58%.If the sweet spot is 58-60 RH why does Boveda make 62RH packs as if that's where you want them to stay? That's a rhetorical question. I don't expect you to answer for Boveda.
Anyway, I read a few articles today that stated the sweet spot for curing is between 55-60RH. There doesn't seem to be a lot of certainty about exactly where the sweet spot is!
You're the only person who tried to answer the question. So thanks for that!
The "sweet spot" is actually the target rh and you dry/cure down to it.
More info in my signature below....
Cheers
No Pain
Well-Known Member
Yes before bagging the buds it has to be at the right moisture content and i stuck my meters prongs in the flower...we discussed the meter and the bags the last several pages of LKABUDMAN'S grow here .
No Pain
Well-Known Member
I see what you are getting at ...the recommended range for curing is 55-60 RH ...why ? because at that level the flower will continue to process chlorophyl, which is what you are looking to leach out in the cure and those that flush before harvest ...as leaching it out properly during the drying and curing process make the smoke smooth as well as brings out other flavors .If the sweet spot is 58-60 RH why does Boveda make 62RH packs as if that's where you want them to stay? That's a rhetorical question. I don't expect you to answer for Boveda.
Anyway, I read a few articles today that stated the sweet spot for curing is between 55-60RH. There doesn't seem to be a lot of certainty about exactly where the sweet spot is!
You're the only person who tried to answer the question. So thanks for that!
...if the flowers go below that level during the drying and curing process it is said that the process stops and the cure process is over ..... now aging and curing do run parallel to one another but they are different things .
Was this more of what you where looking for @Grand Daddy Black ?
- Thread starter
- #913
I'm not sure what I'm looking for. This issue only arose because when I used the moisture meter and let the buds get down to 11% when I jarred them again their hygrometers were (are) reading in the low 50s. I may rehydrate them.
Anyway, next time I use the WMM I'll go for a target of 14% and see what they do once jarred.
Thanks, @No Pain. Every little bit helps!
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
Perhaps the confusion comes from the difference between moisture content and relative humidity.
If the moisture meter is used on the branches, I don't believe that gives me an accurate enough assessment of whether or not the buds are ready for the next stage of drying/curing. Still, can't be any worse than feeling up the bud to judge "crispiness"
If used on the buds the reading will rely on the size/density of the bud tested.
On the other hand, once the buds are in the jars after a period of drying/curing and the relative humidity has had say twelve plus hours to get a good reading of the moisture in the air, it will tell me when no further burping is required.
BTW > Chlorophyll is said to have a half life of two days and needs darkness to break down. And flushing before harvest does nothing to it....
Cheers
If the moisture meter is used on the branches, I don't believe that gives me an accurate enough assessment of whether or not the buds are ready for the next stage of drying/curing. Still, can't be any worse than feeling up the bud to judge "crispiness"
If used on the buds the reading will rely on the size/density of the bud tested.
On the other hand, once the buds are in the jars after a period of drying/curing and the relative humidity has had say twelve plus hours to get a good reading of the moisture in the air, it will tell me when no further burping is required.
BTW > Chlorophyll is said to have a half life of two days and needs darkness to break down. And flushing before harvest does nothing to it....
Cheers
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
In other words, after a period of time in the jars all the buds will give and take until they are all at the same moisture content. This will be reflected in the relative humidity reading.
Clearer ?
But I think what you are looking for is more of an accurate time to go from hang drying to container dry/cure ?
If I hit it right, once the buds are cut from the branches and placed in a container the relative humidity is ~70%.
Any higher and there is the chance of mold....
Cheers
Clearer ?
But I think what you are looking for is more of an accurate time to go from hang drying to container dry/cure ?
If I hit it right, once the buds are cut from the branches and placed in a container the relative humidity is ~70%.
Any higher and there is the chance of mold....
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #916
I wondered about how far in to stick the prongs. Seems the deeper you probe the higher the reading. But that's a question men have dealt with for ages when using certain "tools:" How far to stick it in to get the correct result!Perhaps the confusion comes from the difference between moisture content and relative humidity.
If the moisture meter is used on the branches, I don't believe that gives me an accurate enough assessment of whether or not the buds are ready for the next stage of drying/curing. Still, can't be any worse than feeling up the bud to judge "crispiness"
If used on the buds the reading will rely on the size/density of the bud tested.
On the other hand, once the buds are in the jars after a period of drying/curing and the relative humidity has had say twelve plus hours to get a good reading of the moisture in the air, it will tell me when no further burping is required.
BTW > Chlorophyll is said to have a half life of two days and needs darkness to break down. And flushing before harvest does nothing to it....
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #917
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
For me, it is a feeling kinda thingee
Crisp on the outside with some give on the inside. Takes some experience and I still get it wrong once in a while, but always on the wet side !
You could try your moisture meter on a bud at a higher percentage.
For me, the quickest way would be to find a narrow tallish container. Ideally the container should be about 3/4 full.
Place a couple of branches in and measure the relative humidity the next day...
Cheers
It's truly one of those questions. I'm very similar to Chuckeye. It's a feel to get to know. Dense bud goes faster than fluffy ones. That throws a wrench in the works and you have to use different rules. I don't think there can be strict rules for it. I end up sticking them in a bag or jar and look every time to judge if it's time.
Checking in and very confused . Have to go back and re read some. I missed something.