I've long wondered what the manuf. of your pot is thinking about with respect to the hydroton. Because I'm only visualizing your inside works I'm not 100% sure I get the layout (quite different from
@Krissi Carbone 's pots, are they?), but first I thought maybe there were large openings they wanted dirt to stay out of so laid hydroton clay down first. But with no holes, all I can think of is that perhaps they consider that very bottom layer to be too wet for plants, and hydroton's there to block the roots out.
Thing is, it's not water's wetness that troubles roots, it's when there aren't minimum levels of dissolved oxygen (DO2) in the water, which is the case if no sources of new atmo-gasses exist to keep DO2 levels at the minimum tolerable amounts - and keep bad fungi/bacteria growing on roots.
How do you feel about the results you got the first time around? I thought you got a nice harvest and growth was really nice. I personally like your pot size, but I can understand wanting to try scaling down in a tent your size. I bet you could grow a half-kilo plant in there with one pot and a scrog.
I've actually been trying to get my ex in Utrecht to go to the store to find, and mail me one of those pots but she doesn't seem to get the attraction, and for some reason I haven't felt like explaining.
I get pretty mail-happy when I'm abroad, sending endless parcels of weird food to people back home. I mailed a bicycle to my kid from Holland to Canada, assembled. My ex thought I was a madman then too. Maybe so.
I think it is best to get the plant into a bottom-heavy moisture gradient from germination, so maybe fill the pot with water, let it saturate, and then wait some more until the reservoir is empty and
then plant the seed, dribbling just a little top water on the seed area and let it do its thing. That's what I figured out and did until I got those perforated baggie-things I plant seedlings in now and mini-SIp them. A moisture gradient is recognizable to the plants because this is the most common natural state, as earth is dryer closer to the surface - except briefly when it rains. This recognition triggers a genetic response contained in the seed's DNA that then allows the plant to shape its morphology according to this gradient. My observation is that SIPs often have a lesser root system, measured by dry weight, simply because it isn't necessary, and the plant is not suffering wet/dry cycles and searching for water all the time. Because you're fertilizing the reservoir, as I do often, the plant just goes all out for that reservoir. Probably cannabis is just a more aggressive plant than manuf's had in mind, but so long as you can get water down the pipe, and there's an air gap to keep enough Do2 in the res water it should not be an issue.
I would think that omitting the hydroton and ensuring there was some atmo-gas passing (lol) into the planter from the airgap by drilling holes, would function quite well. Of course, a bird in the hand is worth two in a bush, so.... choices. Will be interesting.