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Fudo Myoo
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They’re awake now. Humidity is still crap but they seem happy. In a couple weeks I won’t want any humidity, I’m gonna quit worrying about it.
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This is a masterclass in clone starting and organic soil use! I will be mixing some of my old soil for the rest of my up-pots and seed germination from now on. Thanks Gee!I would get fresh myco, mix a myco drench as per the instructions, and get it in quick.
Synthetic clones are tough to adapt to LOS so that would explain why your clones work better. It looks like myco never took on these ones. It's creeping into the others so I would also suspect a lack of quality soil carbon.
Start with this... tug the stalk gently... does the solo cup rootball pop right out cleanly?
If so, cut your Rev's soil to 60:40 60% coco, 40% Rev's, and perlite to where you like it, redust the rootball that popped out, and give them 10 days or so. After about 7 days, water them with some fish hydrolysate mixed as per the instructions.
Myco loves fish. Myco also needs lots of soil carbon.
It's actually a nitrogen thing. At 10:1 C:N, myco can barely survive. At 15:1 it can barely reproduce. At 20:1 it's starting to get robust. At 25+ to 1 it's ripping.
I'm not familiar with Fox Farm soil, so it may have lots of coco in it already, but it also may not.
I haven't found a commercial mix yet that is LOS clone friendly. They all cheap out on the coco and go with forest fines and spagnum instead. Great for older established plants, but tough on clones.
My soil of choice for seed sprouting, and for 1st pottings, is the used soil from a previously successful grow that hasn't been recycled. It's balanced and innoculated, and weaker than fresh soil. It's also plumb full of exudates (carbon) from the rootball that died and decomposed in it.
If the rootball pops out and you have an old organic rootball laying around from a successful grow try that soil. Properly hydrate it 1st before using it. Mix in at least 25% by volume, fresh coco and if needed add a bit more perlite.
Once the clone is in it, GENTLY water to full saturation with RO, let them drip out, and don't water again until the pot is quite light, but not to the point where the leaves start to droop.
Then GENTLY water again to full runoff with some fish hydrolysate (not emulsion) and let them dry down again.
If myco links up they will be looking good at the 2 week mark.
If they didn't link to the FF soil, uppotting everything probably won't fix the problem.
To me, this looks like myco didn't link. They have no control over food or water. They are patiently waiting for a synthetic feed.
Also, you need an analog refractometer. They are cheap. They tell you a brix reading, but they also tell you how your calcium is doing. Digital ones won't read calcium.
Also, those probes are ok for soil moisture, but I haven't found one yet that is even close on soil PH. A slurry test is only good if you test it with a good PH pen that is calibrated.
Don't worry about soil PH though, if you get the carbon and myco correct, PH will adjust itself into the ballpark, and once the plant starts to produce exudates, it will use it's own carbon to bribe myco into controlling PH for you.
You want your soil temp at least 68F, but mid 70's is better. Warmer soil breeds microbes/fungii better. Cold soil slows everything down, including transpiration.
Sativas are far more vulnerable in cold soil. They want jungle steamy warmth.
So theres some food for thought. See if that might jive with what is going on, and decide from there.
Start with seeing if those rootballs pop right out. If the do, the plant doesn't like that soil. If they don't then start with a myco drench.
The way they are holding water makes me suspect myco and carbon. That leads to full starvation as there is no control over PH occurring in the pot.
So here's a good tip moving forwards. If the commercial clone guys aren't growing the mothers organically, back away from the till and look elsewhere.
Most growers are still synthetic so lots of cloners are too. Synthetic clones work excellent in synthetic grows, but in living soil you need to convert them.
It's similar to a SIPs stall. The roots need to convert to feeder roots.
Organic clones will work well in both synthetics or organics.
Seed breeders generally only deal with organic seed mothers, so seeds are way easier in LOS or synthetics.
Also, as a side note, a SIPs mother will make clones that adapt to SIPs quicker, as opposed to a top watered mother's clones. And vica-versa. At least that's my experience.
So the right clone for the right environment makes a big difference. Especially if you are managing timelines.
Thanks Shed, same to you!They're really getting their legs under them. Well done and happy 420 Fudo!