Flushing & Leaching & Final Bud Swell

[Emilya Green]

So 'Nute Lockout' is described as 'the plants stop growing'? That's it?
-What if I don't 'over fertilize'? What would that be? 1/2 to 3/4 their recommendation, but same schedule?

I read of using a Temp/Humidity sensor hanging from the light as a growth height reference point.
-If I were to keep a log of the height of the plant every few days, (or once per week?), I could see that the plant has stopped getting taller, and that indicates it's time to do a 3x container flush? I can do that!

-I got my 5 gal cloth pots the other day. Should these be on some sort of grate to keep the bottoms off the trays they sit in?

Side note: I went to a local hardware store. Not the big chain stores. They showed that they carry Fox Farm products, and at great prices!
I went the to the garden section and didn't find any, just the miracle grow soils and such. I was sad.
Then as I wondered, there they were! A wide center aisle was full of FF soils and a shelves of nutes and such!
It's like they're catering to us!! Thanks guys!

It's hard to come up with a plan/routine by just poking around on this forum. It's hundreds of opinions all spread out. I try to find the knowledgeable ones and follow them to glean info.
-Is there a current book or video series to recommend?
Should I start my journal as a 'Got my gear! Now what?' place to ask these questions (-), instead of jumping in here and there?
Sadly the grow room is not up and running yet. Maybe I'll get my arse in gear this evening....
I know I have to get control of heat and humidity before I start any seeds.
Seeds are on the way! And dozens of pepper and tomato seeds that want to come out and play!

Be very careful. There is a lot of horrible advice out there and you have to be very careful that you can validate what you are seeing with multiple sources.

 

[Nortonnabis]

Be very careful. There is a lot of horrible advice out there and you have to be very careful that you can validate what you are seeing with multiple sources.

Good grief, So research on the research I have already gathered?
Thanks, I'll try.
Is there any source you can recommend?

I'll probably follow some of your latest soil grows.
I got dynomyco because I saw you use it in a pot build up!
Only there are always some details missing.
Like, what do you set your cloth pots on?
Do they share a large tray to catch the run off?

 

[AdaminCO]

Good grief, So research on the research I have already gathered?
Thanks, I'll try.
Is there any source you can recommend?

I'll probably follow some of your latest soil grows.
I got dynomyco because I saw you use it in a pot build up!
Only there are always some details missing.
Like, what do you set your cloth pots on?
Do they share a large tray to catch the run off?

Set them on grates so they don’t sit in liquid. Mimic this setup and you’ll be golden. Fans above and under canopy, plenty of spacing. Ideally 24x24” per plant.

Starting your own thread will be very helpful. That’s kinda how it works. There are many different ways to grow. 1st decide what works best for you.

I have plenty of quick reads in my signatures that walk you through basic stuff. The rear is research published documents (not hearsay) and some trial and error.

Locate @farside05 “No Bloom Nutes” journal and watch the videos in the beginning. A lot of good stuff there.

I learned a lot from this guy Here.

He does soil and hydro, so watch a few of each and decide what works easier for you maintenance wise.

 

[Emilya Green]

Good grief, So research on the research I have already gathered?
Thanks, I'll try.
Is there any source you can recommend?

I'll probably follow some of your latest soil grows.
I got dynomyco because I saw you use it in a pot build up!
Only there are always some details missing.
Like, what do you set your cloth pots on?
Do they share a large tray to catch the run off?

I research out who is giving me advice. If it is someone on the forums with multiple journals and lots of followers, I tend to give more credibility to the advice. If I want to endorse a product or a method though, I need to first try it myself. Always verify and validate anything that comes into your garden, even advice... test what you can, and take the rest with a grain of salt, albeit with an open mind... even if it seems that everyone is doing it.

I will be starting a new journal in this next week or so. It will be teaching type journal and I will try to remember to tag you so you can find it. I always have a link at the bottom of my signature lines leading someone to my active journals too. I will be honored to have you there, and I will try to give away as many tricks in there as I can think of. Asking me a question in any of my journals will likely get you a full chapter sized response... I do tend to be a bit wordy.

At any rate, in my next journal I am intending to show everyone how I do a 4 month perpetual grow, not to be confused with a perpetual journal, as I think that this method must be the best way to get the most product over time out of a legal medical grow, which puts you on a strict plant limit. I hope you enjoy watching how effective this method is, over the next year or so as I work through the problems associated with both harvesting and starting new plants every month.

So growing organically, I have no fear of the quality of the water coming out of the bottom of my plants or what might be in it. My bags sit right on the bottom in drip trays that are just a couple of inches bigger around than the cloth container. This is essentially sealing that bottom side of the cloth container into being a hard bottomed, soft sided container. I justify that by knowing that in a true hard sided container, the roots hit the bottom and do a 90 degree turn... and it doesn't hurt the plant in any way.

It's not like the water stays there long, anyway. After watering to maybe a 1" runoff in the tray, if I come back 1/2 an hour later, that water will have been sucked up by the thirsty roots... it's never there the next day.

 

[Phytoplankton]

So 'Nute Lockout' is described as 'the plants stop growing'? That's it?

No, not exactly, growth will slow down due to the inability of the plant to assimilate the nutrients it needs. But well before "Growth Stops", you'll see other signs, like yellowing of leaves, brown spots on the leaves, light colored leaves, etc. Flushing is necessary when the salts (not true salt [NaCl]) build-up to the reduced assimilation point (nute lock out). I use FFOF soil, which I like, and can get very cheap. It's a good media though can be a little hot on seedlings, if you want something a little "cooler' consider FF Happy Frog or try your hand at organic growing and make your own soil. I would recommend starting in FF, and while you're growing, assemble the components for organic soil and get it cooking, it will be ready by the end of your grow, that is, if you're so inclined. I normally end up flushing once, at, or before, pre-flower, but there have been occassions where it was not necessary. If growing organically, flushing isn't even an issue and is rarely if ever needed (unless you make a bad mistake in assembling/cooking the soil). Bottom line, the final product, organic or synthetic nutes, coco, soil, or hydro media, is the same, it's just a different pathway to get there. Start simple, put the seeds in the ground, water, and let them do their thing, they'll tell you when they're hungry. Don't get caught up in the minutia.

 

[Nortonnabis]

...I will be starting a new journal in this next week or so. It will be teaching type journal and I will try to remember to tag you so you can find it. I always have a link at the bottom of my signature lines leading someone to my active journals too. I will be honored to have you there, and I will try to give away as many tricks in there as I can think of. Asking me a question in any of my journals will likely get you a full chapter sized response... I do tend to be a bit wordy.

At any rate, in my next journal I am intending to show everyone how I do a 4 month perpetual grow, not to be confused with a perpetual journal, as I think that this method must be the best way to get the most product over time out of a legal medical grow, which puts you on a strict plant limit. ...

Thanks Emmie!
That is exactly the type of grow I should be doing here to keep it legal!
And thanks for the clear explanation about cloth pots sitting in trays! Just what I was asking about!
But then, what would a dirt and syn nute guy like me do for the 3X flush routine? Use a shop vac? Easy.
Looking forward to following along on your next journal! Maybe I'll have my room ready by then...

 

[Nortonnabis]

No, not exactly, growth will slow down due to the inability of the plant to assimilate the nutrients it needs. But well before "Growth Stops", you'll see other signs, like yellowing of leaves, brown spots on the leaves, light colored leaves, etc. Flushing is necessary when the salts (not true salt [NaCl]) build-up to the reduced assimilation point (nute lock out). I use FFOF soil, which I like, and can get very cheap. It's a good media though can be a little hot on seedlings, if you want something a little "cooler' consider FF Happy Frog or try your hand at organic growing and make your own soil. ..... Don't get caught up in the minutia.

Phyto, Thanks for the explanation.
I bought FF potting soil and small bag Light Warrior seed stater. I'll be starting lots of garden seeds too!
I know I'll need more so I'll get a bag of FFOF to mix with the original FF, OK?
And I have FF Big Bloom, Big Grow and Cha Ching (left over from years ago, this stuff has high NPK numbers). And I have Dynomyco.

We have a food scraps compost pile and huge leaf piles but I need to make a tumbler to get some decent soil out of that mess. (It's a mostly vegan household so the compost is yummy!)
But I don't have time now and it's the dead of winter,, so syn it is...
But I would like to go organic for the veg and indoor garden at some point!

It appears most FF 'feeding products' have really low NPK numbers. You don't get much for your money, no?
How hard is it to adjust the ratios and use popular high number syn fertilizers and still use FF schedules? Is that sacrilegious 'round here?

And speaking of FF schedules, some of which had 14 different products they would like you to use. Really? Make it 15 different products and I'm in...

I had a hard time finding 'Quantity' for the 'feedings'. As in: 'How much for a 5 gal pot'?
I dug deep and found in their FAQ "Feed to 10-15% run off". But if you leave that run off in the tray it will get sucked back into the soil, so it's not like a 10-15% waste of product.
But then I also saw "A helpful hint when feeding: always make sure that you water first so that the soil is moist, then fertilize."
So,, I'm not sure how to use their feeding products without clearer instructions than that.

 

[Emilya Green]

That is one of the main reasons that I went organic... so I never had to flush again. Many a time I had to carry my plants to the bathroom to use the drain or the toilet to take care of my flush runoff. Then that water saturated heavy container had to be moved back to the grow tent. This was always a two woman job. If I were designing a room to run synthetic nutes in, I would include a drain. The shop vac will work too, but still you will be moving a lot of water to a drain, over and over again.

The 4 month perpetual, in order to best comply with the local laws, has to be in 3 parts. On a single license I am allowed 6 seedlings/clones, 6 in full veg and 6 in bloom. To take advantage of that, I have one veg room set up just for the young plants, and I will work them in solo cups - 3 gallon containers in that room during the first month. 2nd month I will start 3 more plants in that room and move the larger veggers into the 2nd veg room for another month. On the 3rd month, the big veggers will move to bloom and the newest plants will move to veg room #2, and 3 more plants will be started in Veg room 1.

The limiting factor is the bloom room, where I am still limited to 6 plants, or I would be starting more plants each month in veg room 1. The bloom room will get new plants moving into it each month too and at max it will have 6 plants. After 8 weeks in bloom, most will be done or nearly done, and each month 3 plants will be harvested and a new set brought in from veg room 2.

After I sign up another medical patient, my plant count can go up to 12/12/12, for a total of 36 plants in the rotation, starting 6 and harvesting 6, each month.

Lastly, the more money (products) you throw into a FF grow, the better your end product will be. The trio and the 3 solubles create a damn fine grow, but it can get better. In the FF system, the more you spend, the better the grow will be. Each product will add something unique to the grow. CHeck out @Jon, when he decided to use the entire product line exactly as called for. He was surprised, but it turned out to be everything I told him it would... expensive, but a damn fine grow.

Regarding FF nutes. There are 3 basic products that you must have... Grow BIg, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom. The next level involves using the soluble trio, at the correct time for each, Open Sesame, Beasty Blooms and Cha ching. It is very important to use each of them exactly as called for by the soil feeding chart. Trust the feed numbers on the feeding chart and mix it per gallon in a bucket. Feed one time, and give plain pH adjusted water on the next pass. Feed / water/feed/water, all through the grow. This is how soil was meant to be used and if you don't do it this way you will have overfeeding problems. When the chart calls for a flush, do the full 3x flush in place of the plain water watering and don't worry about the pH... there are no nutes at that point that need to be adjusted for.

FF nutrients are a scientifically designed grow system... it is not just "nutes." If you do everything as they tell you to do it, you will get superior grows with FF nutes. You will have no need for anything outside of this system and everything you need is in those two trios of nutrients. You don't need anything else. If you run RO water and LED lights, you will probably need some external calmag as a supplement, and there is not a problem adding silica either. Any other boosters are likely to cause you problems... Fox Farm is one of the heaviest nute load systems out on the market today.

Also, exercise a little more patience when watering. There is no need to start with plain water to wet the soil. Just go slow at first with your mixed nutrients, or water, and give it time to seep into the soil. Go slow at first, and then the soil will begin to pull the liquids down. I use a 3 cup watering pitcher to do this job. Proper watering can sometimes take quite a while, and I used to run in and give everyone a round of wetness at each commercial break on TV. This gave plenty of time for each round to soak in, but it could take several hours to properly water a 4x4 full of plants.

 

[Nortonnabis]

1... If I were designing a room to run synthetic nutes in, I would include a drain. The shop vac will work too, but still you will be moving a lot of water to a drain, over and over again.

2. The 4 month perpetual, in order to best comply with the local laws, ...

3. Lastly, the more money (products) you throw into a FF grow, the better your end product will be. .... expensive, but a damn fine grow.

4. Regarding FF nutes. There are 3 basic products that you must have... Grow BIg, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom. The next level involves using the soluble trio, at the correct time for each, Open Sesame, Beasty Blooms and Cha ching. It is very important to use each of them exactly as called for by the soil feeding chart. Trust the feed numbers on the feeding chart and mix it per gallon in a bucket. Feed one time, and give plain pH adjusted water on the next pass. [dang it, don't use 'enter']

When the chart calls for a flush, do the full 3x flush in place of the plain water watering and don't worry about the pH... there are no nutes at that point that need to be adjusted for.

5. FF nutrients are a scientifically designed grow system..... If you run RO water and LED lights, you will probably need some external calmag as a supplement,.. Fox Farm is one of the heaviest nute load systems out on the market today.

6.Also, exercise a little more patience when watering. ...

1. Maybe a small water garden pump would be easier and quieter. I'd just run the hose out the backdoor.

2. Really looking forward to this journal! I'm going to get one good grow in before I start a legal 3 stages attempt. I have the room for it though. I'd just need a light barrier or a tent in the same room.

3. I saw a guy 'run the numbers'. He came out with inexpensive bud. At some point I could just go to the candy store (dispensary). I'll get the 4 products you recommended that I don't have yet, and won't need for a while.

4. pH adjusting. Water in a bucket, then nutes, then measure pH and adjust. Some points in one of the schedules there are 7 different nutes for one feeding.
Can these all be added to the same gallon of water? I haven't seen that answered yet.
And "Feed up to twice a week"? Once or twice is a big difference...
And adjust the plain water also for watering. Correct?
We have great water in this area, but the pH might not be ideal.
So, do I need FF for pH Up and Down? Or is there a homegrown method? I have a summertime pool.
Are those products ok? What about vinegar, baking soda, etc?

5. Calmag. I'll be using tap water and an LED 350W / T5HO 500w combo, I think...
Some FF schedules have you start using Cal-Mag the 2nd or 3rd week, some don't mention it at all.

I swear all those different schedules look goofy to me. They don't define what/why there are so many.

I can deal with the main 3 nutes and the flushing schedule. I'll add the other 3 you recommended when I get to that point.
I'm not buying $500 of FF, just yet...

Sorry if this is not the thread to talk about my 'learnin'...

 

[Emilya Green]

1. Maybe a small water garden pump would be easier and quieter. I'd just run the hose out the backdoor.

2. Really looking forward to this journal! I'm going to get one good grow in before I start a legal 3 stages attempt. I have the room for it though. I'd just need a light barrier or a tent in the same room.

3. I saw a guy 'run the numbers'. He came out with inexpensive bud. At some point I could just go to the candy store (dispensary). I'll get the 4 products you recommended that I don't have yet, and won't need for a while.

4. pH adjusting. Water in a bucket, then nutes, then measure pH and adjust. Some points in one of the schedules there are 7 different nutes for one feeding.
Can these all be added to the same gallon of water? I haven't seen that answered yet.
And "Feed up to twice a week"? Once or twice is a big difference...
And adjust the plain water also for watering. Correct?
We have great water in this area, but the pH might not be ideal.
So, do I need FF for pH Up and Down? Or is there a homegrown method? I have a summertime pool.
Are those products ok? What about vinegar, baking soda, etc?

5. Calmag. I'll be using tap water and an LED 350W / T5HO 500w combo, I think...
Some FF schedules have you start using Cal-Mag the 2nd or 3rd week, some don't mention it at all.

I swear all those different schedules look goofy to me. They don't define what/why there are so many.

I can deal with the main 3 nutes and the flushing schedule. I'll add the other 3 you recommended when I get to that point.
I'm not buying $500 of FF, just yet...

Sorry if this is not the thread to talk about my 'learnin'...

Great questions... lets attack them in order:
3. you will need Grow Big and Big Bloomz right away, and if using RO water and LED lighting, get some calmag too. Open Sesame is needed in the last week of veg, in my case, not till they are about to come out of veg room #2. At that point you need to have the whole set of 6 nutrients ready to go.
4. Yes, you should mix all of your nutes in the same bucket, together. If you have started to use calmag, put it in first or all the magnesium will not be available to the plant. Might as well use what you paid for, right?
The feed once a week has confused many a new grower, but with a plant needing to be watered ever 3 days or so (normal), run the numbers. If you feed/water/feed/water, in the long term you end up feeding once a week. Soil is designed to capture some of your nutes when you feed, and it saves it over for the water only pass. If your water is adjusted to the correct pH range, the stored nutrients become mobile and available to the plant. This is also why a soil recommended dosage is greater than a hydro dosage... with each feeding pass in soil you are actually feeding that time and the next time, in one convenient pass.
In soil, if you adjust pH to 6.3, you are adjusting to the point in the scale where the most nutes are the most available to the plant. Soil causes an upward drift in the pH because of the dolomite buffers in it, so the pH begins to rise because of that, and because some of the acidic nutes are being used up by the plant. If you start out with a 6.5 pH, the same drift occurs, but you have missed out on the lower end of the scale between 6.3 and 6.5, so any nutrients most mobile in that lower part of the range are missed out on. Because of the upward drift however, starting out at 6.5 also means that you will be in the usable range for a much shorter period of time, before it drifts up to 6.8 or beyond. To use more of your nutes and not waste your money, it is best to start at the low point in the usable range.
Typically, because nutes are acidic, you will need to use pH up to get the fluid back up to 6.3 pH. I am a cheapskate and always look for the cheapest and most readily available means to accomplish this task. From the grocery store, pickling lime is a perfect choice and it is extremely powerful. You have to store the liquid in glass bottles because it will eat plastic, and 1 teaspoon of the powerful stuff in a gallon of water will make you a very powerful pH up product. When adjusting your plain water pass, I recommend a weak commonly available acid. The commercial product uses phosphoric acid, but you can do better. Go to the auto parts store and buy a $6 box of battery acid. Get a gallon jug of distilled water and remove 1 cup. Carefully, with eye protection, replace that cup with a cup of the battery acid. This 1:15 dilution of the acid is safe and will be a very cheap pH down product. Your first purchase will make 4 or 5 gallons of the stuff... basically a couple of years worth. Vinegar, fruit juice draws bugs, and baking soda adds chemicals that will react with your nutes. The above methods will not, and they are super cheap and this is what I used for at least the first half of my growing career.
5. calmag, especially the mag part of it, should be used on an as needed basis. Too much mag in the soil can lockout other vital nutrients, so only use it when you see a need. When using calmag, always add it to the bucket of water first because it will interact with other nutes in the mix, creating forms of magnesium that are not bio available.

Lastly, the idea of buying more and more of the product line in order to get better and better grows, sort of offended me. I understand that everyone needs to make money, but having to spend so much and knowing that I really wanted to spend even more, drove me to organic growing. I totally understand your reluctance to "buy into" the program. It's a good system, but my goal was to grow cheap pot, not spend a fortune on a chance that I might have better pot at the end.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Great questions... lets attack them in order:
3. you will need Grow Big and Big Bloomz right away, and if using RO water and LED lighting, get some calmag too. Open Sesame is needed in the last week of veg, in my case, not till they are about to come out of veg room #2. At that point you need to have the whole set of 6 nutrients ready to go.
4. Yes, you should mix all of your nutes in the same bucket, together. If you have started to use calmag, put it in first or all the magnesium will not be available to the plant. Might as well use what you paid for, right?
The feed once a week has confused many a new grower, but with a plant needing to be watered ever 3 days or so (normal), run the numbers. If you feed/water/feed/water, in the long term you end up feeding once a week. Soil is designed to capture some of your nutes when you feed, and it saves it over for the water only pass. If your water is adjusted to the correct pH range, the stored nutrients become mobile and available to the plant. This is also why a soil recommended dosage is greater than a hydro dosage... with each feeding pass in soil you are actually feeding that time and the next time, in one convenient pass.
In soil, if you adjust pH to 6.3, you are adjusting to the point in the scale where the most nutes are the most available to the plant. Soil causes an upward drift in the pH because of the dolomite buffers in it, so the pH begins to rise because of that, and because some of the acidic nutes are being used up by the plant. If you start out with a 6.5 pH, the same drift occurs, but you have missed out on the lower end of the scale between 6.3 and 6.5, so any nutrients most mobile in that lower part of the range are missed out on. Because of the upward drift however, starting out at 6.5 also means that you will be in the usable range for a much shorter period of time, before it drifts up to 6.8 or beyond. To use more of your nutes and not waste your money, it is best to start at the low point in the usable range.
Typically, because nutes are acidic, you will need to use pH up to get the fluid back up to 6.3 pH. I am a cheapskate and always look for the cheapest and most readily available means to accomplish this task. From the grocery store, pickling lime is a perfect choice and it is extremely powerful. You have to store the liquid in glass bottles because it will eat plastic, and 1 teaspoon of the powerful stuff in a gallon of water will make you a very powerful pH up product. When adjusting your plain water pass, I recommend a weak commonly available acid. The commercial product uses phosphoric acid, but you can do better. Go to the auto parts store and buy a $6 box of battery acid. Get a gallon jug of distilled water and remove 1 cup. Carefully, with eye protection, replace that cup with a cup of the battery acid. This 1:15 dilution of the acid is safe and will be a very cheap pH down product. Your first purchase will make 4 or 5 gallons of the stuff... basically a couple of years worth. Vinegar, fruit juice draws bugs, and baking soda adds chemicals that will react with your nutes. The above methods will not, and they are super cheap and this is what I used for at least the first half of my growing career.
5. calmag, especially the mag part of it, should be used on an as needed basis. Too much mag in the soil can lockout other vital nutrients, so only use it when you see a need. When using calmag, always add it to the bucket of water first because it will interact with other nutes in the mix, creating forms of magnesium that are not bio available.

Lastly, the idea of buying more and more of the product line in order to get better and better grows, sort of offended me. I understand that everyone needs to make money, but having to spend so much and knowing that I really wanted to spend even more, drove me to organic growing. I totally understand your reluctance to "buy into" the program. It's a good system, but my goal was to grow cheap pot, not spend a fortune on a chance that I might have better pot at the end.

Excellent write up and points. I do take issue with how 'offended' people seem to get that they have to buy the whole line of products for the best chances at an epic grow.

It's not a conspiracy, it's a combination of the limits of chemistry and running a business.

Depending on where you are, organic can end up costing a lot more, and may even be inaccessible.

I do agree it's silly and bad for the planet to ship plastic bottles full of water mixed nutes all over the world when we could get paper bags of powdered nutes a lot cheaper.

I applaud and admire how articulate and thorough you are in helping the community. I just think we need to be really carefully how we communicate these issues. It seems like the biggest hurdle new growers face now is the OVERWHELMING amount of poorly researched, conflicting, misunderstood information being shared on the internet.

@Emilya, I do wish we were in the same country so we could share a glass of wine and talk about growing.

 

[safeman]

Set them on grates so they don’t sit in liquid. Mimic this setup and you’ll be golden. Fans above and under canopy, plenty of spacing. Ideally 24x24” per plant.

Starting your own thread will be very helpful. That’s kinda how it works. There are many different ways to grow. 1st decide what works best for you.

I have plenty of quick reads in my signatures that walk you through basic stuff. The rear is research published documents (not hearsay) and some trial and error.

Locate @farside05 “No Bloom Nutes” journal and watch the videos in the beginning. A lot of good stuff there.

I learned a lot from this guy Here.

He does soil and hydro, so watch a few of each and decide what works easier for you maintenance wise.

great grow !! how long did you veg ? look like a very good yield fro 4 plants !!! Nice Guard dog

 

[AdaminCO]

great grow !! how long did you veg ? look like a very good yield fro 4 plants !!! Nice Guard dog

I usually Veg for about 8 weeks. It really depends on the plants health. I won’t flip if I’m having nutrient issues.
Once I feel she’s at her strongest I’ll do a good trimming, pull clones if needed, wait 3-5 days, then flip.

Yeah she thinks those are her plants. Lol! She’s gets excited sometimes and nips off the bottom leafs. She’s an odd one.

 

[safeman]

I usually Veg for about 8 weeks. It really depends on the plants health. I won’t flip if I’m having nutrient issues.
Once I feel she’s at her strongest I’ll do a good trimming, pull clones if needed, wait 3-5 days, then flip.

Yeah she thinks those are her plants. Lol! She’s gets excited sometimes and nips off the bottom leafs. She’s an odd one.

wish I would do a 2 month veg - also good practice "no flip with plant issues" make sense (good tip) So you only defoliate once just before flip, Generally I do a heavy defoliation in week 4 of veg and then like you defo just before flip, longer veg time = larger plant I guess

 

[AdaminCO]

wish I would do a 2 month veg - also good practice "no flip with plant issues" make sense (good tip) So you only defoliate once just before flip, Generally I do a heavy defoliation in week 4 of veg and then like you defo just before flip, longer veg time = larger plant I guess

Not really a defoliate… I don’t cut fans off unless they are doing more harm than good.
The fans you see cut from the stock are the only ones I’ve taken off and the only reason was because they were almost as thick as the branches and not getting any light, so I figured they’d be better off without them.

A week before flip I’ll take whatever lowers I don’t like off and whatever clones, if any.

 

[AdaminCO]

Good rule of thumb here.

 

[safeman]

Not really a defoliate… I don’t cut fans off unless they are doing more harm than good.
The fans you see cut from the stock are the only ones I’ve taken off and the only reason was because they were almost as thick as the branches and not getting any light, so I figured they’d be better off without them.

A week before flip I’ll take whatever lowers I don’t like off and whatever clones, if any.

never thought of it like that - thanks

 

[safeman]

Good rule of thumb here.

in relation to bottom leaves my 1st leaf removal is when the plant has 5 node's and then I just take to very bottom set (2) of fan leaves generally I remove some big fan that cover lateral branching -

 

[Oliann]

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight and Cannabinoid Content in Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress

Controlled application of drought can increase secondary metabolite concentrations in some essential oil-producing crops. To evaluate the effects of drought on cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) inflorescence dry weight and cannabinoid content, drought stress was applied to container-grown cannabis...

journals.ashs.org

There's a study talking about drought and its effects on cannabinoids. As a gardener, I never want super wet ground for flowering plants. Flushing just doesn't make sense unless you're in nute lock.

I'm currently in drought conditions with my girls.

 

[AdaminCO]

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight and Cannabinoid Content in Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress

Controlled application of drought can increase secondary metabolite concentrations in some essential oil-producing crops. To evaluate the effects of drought on cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) inflorescence dry weight and cannabinoid content, drought stress was applied to container-grown cannabis...

journals.ashs.org

There's a study talking about drought and its effects on cannabinoids. As a gardener, I never want super wet ground for flowering plants. Flushing just doesn't make sense unless you're in nute lock.

I'm currently in drought conditions with my girls.

There are a few members experimenting with that on the site currently.