Flump's Grow: Dinamed CBD, 2019/12

Doc Bud said:
When you add the drench to RO there is no need for buffering. Also, when you add RO to a bucket of soil there is no need for buffering. In other words, don't worry about it at all.

There are only 2 things we need to be concerned about regarding water: Assuming it's not contaminated with stuff, like gutter water, but is either tap, well or rain water:

Chloramine
Total Alkalinity

A filter or RO unit deals with both. If you want to use tap water, aerate it for a few hours to get rid of chlorine, or use a filter to remove chloramine.

But if the Total Alkalinity is more than about 120, then you need to mix it with RO in order to avoid the buildup of bicarbonates in the soil.

The dirt is a far more powerful buffer than adding water or a bit of acid to the water.....don't go down the pH rabbit hole. It's silly.
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Yes.....feed me please!

I was waiting for you to come in with exactly that. I want to understand how everything goes together....the science. I figured that what he was talking about might not apply to our soil. I knew that we don't need to worry about PH, but it can rarely be an issue.

I really want to get off bought H20 cause it's costing me $2 per gallon and is heavy to lug around. For the sake of just eliminating any water issues, it just doesn't make much sense in my case. I would rather test my source water and see if I can make it work.

That podcast, if nothing else is pushing me to look at research and do my own research to find the best possible solution for my situation/environment.

Doc Bud said:
If you want to improve foliar sprays, why not go with the folks who literally invented them (same people who make my products?)

All the science in this podcast and much more already goes into DBHBB foliar sprays.
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What company was that?

I am listening to everything I can get my hands on. It makes my work days much easier listening to people talking about living soils and all that go into it. I don't have the space to make my own compost teas, or ewc....but I still want to be educated as much as possible on these topics.

I use the kit cause I don't have the knowledge or capabilities.....understanding what they consist of and why we use what when is where I am aiming for.
 
seedlingmtl said:
Yes.....feed me please!

I was waiting for you to come in with exactly that. I want to understand how everything goes together....the science. I figured that what he was talking about might not apply to our soil. I knew that we don't need to worry about PH, but it can rarely be an issue.

I really want to get off bought H20 cause it's costing me $2 per gallon and is heavy to lug around. For the sake of just eliminating any water issues, it just doesn't make much sense in my case. I would rather test my source water and see if I can make it work.

That podcast, if nothing else is pushing me to look at research and do my own research to find the best possible solution for my situation/environment.


What company was that?

I am listening to everything I can get my hands on. It makes my work days much easier listening to people talking about living soils and all that go into it. I don't have the space to make my own compost teas, or ewc....but I still want to be educated as much as possible on these topics.

I use the kit cause I don't have the knowledge or capabilities.....understanding what they consist of and why we use what when is where I am aiming for.
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Dirty water has minerals suspended in it....which act as more powerful buffers than a mix of tap and RO water. A bucket of wet dirt has so much more buffering capacity than a bucket of mixed water the two can't even be compared to eachother in any meaningful way.

Since we put water into buckets of dirt, we need not concern ourselves for even one second about pH of the water. The pH of the dirt is our concern and DBHBB products set pH at 6.4. Period.

As for foliar sprays, the work of Cary Reams and William Albrecht is what guides the development of DBHBB foliars.

It is important to note that there are two major categories of foliar sprays:

Sprays that feed the plant: Snake Oil is one of these
Sprays that feed the soil: Brix, Destress and other fall into this category.

If the soil isn't right, the second category of foliar spays are pretty much useless....but the first category, IE the ones that feed the plant directly might still be useful.

I've noted that most conventional discussions about foliar sprays focus entirely on the kind that feed the plant and make up for deficiencies. That's rarely our concern in High Brix. We're far more focused on the health of the soil, which leads to supremely healthy plants.

We only use Snake Oil for certain strains. If used too much it will cause problems.
 
Doc Bud said:
Dirty water has minerals suspended in it....which act as more powerful buffers than a mix of tap and RO water. A bucket of wet dirt has so much more buffering capacity than a bucket of mixed water the two can't even be compared to eachother in any meaningful way.

Since we put water into buckets of dirt, we need not concern ourselves for even one second about pH of the water. The pH of the dirt is our concern and DBHBB products set pH at 6.4. Period.

As for foliar sprays, the work of Cary Reams and William Albrecht is what guides the development of DBHBB foliars.

It is important to note that there are two major categories of foliar sprays:

Sprays that feed the plant: Snake Oil is one of these
Sprays that feed the soil: Brix, Destress and other fall into this category.

If the soil isn't right, the second category of foliar spays are pretty much useless....but the first category, IE the ones that feed the plant directly might still be useful.

I've noted that most conventional discussions about foliar sprays focus entirely on the kind that feed the plant and make up for deficiencies. That's rarely our concern in High Brix. We're far more focused on the health of the soil, which leads to supremely healthy plants.

We only use Snake Oil for certain strains. If used too much it will cause problems.
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You should contact Tad and get on that podcast....or check it out and tell me how significant it is.

I need to read this response on my lunch.....hooray!
 
Again...a great info post Doc.....all should read.....and absorb!!!
 
Yeah....just read it and that is an excellent explanation of how this works for us.

Reams and Albrecht keep coming up and I need to find some of thier research to read. The podcast really just touches on topics that relate to what we do and it isn't hidden that a lot of these professionals are working outside the area of Cannabis.

It is actually blowing my mind wide open in regards to what we are doing. I started out just wanting to grow healthy plants and produce quality flowers....and I am doing that. Duggs gave me all the skills to be successful using this kit and it really is a fantastic product.

It is the type of person I am to dig deep on topics. Now that I have an understanding of why it is so important to use these practices for all agricultural applications it is really a game changer. Ask anyone around me....I am getting super annoying about it :rofl:

One of the most interesting things I think we are doing in the Cannabis industry is actually doing the research that other industries cannot due to the fact that the cash value is much larger and there is the demand for organics. Food crops and ornamentals can't justify the research involved cause thier crops are worth much less. These practices need to be applied for all since the environmental impact is huge. I don't even want to imagine a world where hydro is the only option available.
 
Flump said:
I used Brix yesterday. Doc, should I use DeStress once a week like Brix?
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I think there is something here I was wondering about.....how much time does it take for the plant to create these educates after a foliar? Then how long before the herd consumes it? It must happen quite quickly since we see a response the next day usually. I can see that we want to space things out so we aren't overloading them and expecting them to multi task too much.

I guess I should also be taking advantage of the Destress a little more often....and next run I will be trying to Destress after topping etc...
 
I did A Lot of research about LOS before I found Docs kit and I even put a Bunch of money into mixing soil, A Lot of soil. I like understanding all the elements or some of them as the case may be but then I look at others doing LOS and they are often trying to figure out what is going on where with the kit you just alternate drenches and do foliar sprays. The hard work is already done but I get what you are saying about understanding what is going on in the soil. Where did you get the Pod cast and are they free ? It sounds like something I would like to listen to. When we can grow outdoors I will do an LOS grow.
 
PCaddict said:
I did A Lot of research about LOS before I found Docs kit and I even put a Bunch of money into mixing soil, A Lot of soil. I like understanding all the elements or some of them as the case may be but then I look at others doing LOS and they are often trying to figure out what is going on where with the kit you just alternate drenches and do foliar sprays. The hard work is already done but I get what you are saying about understanding what is going on in the soil. Where did you get the Pod cast and are they free ? It sounds like something I would like to listen to. When we can grow outdoors I will do an LOS grow.
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Yeah, it is free....a friend recommended a podcast about ISIS called Caliphate and I would highly recommend that one also.....very, very interesting stuff. After I was done with that I went looking for podcasts and found this one by Tad Hussey. There are tons of apps to stream podcasts from, but I am using castbox. There are several cannabis podcasts, but this one is focused on the science and really trying to move away from the "forum advice" type of structure where people get information. I love this forum, but I see what they are talking about.

Coots is on there and he was talking about how tons of people claim to be using his soil and nobody actually is due to the fact that he makes his own castings, teas...etc. and unless you are using all the same sources of ingredients it will be different. It is just a formula to begin understanding how things work and adapting everything to your environment....etc.

That is why the kit is good cause it is like a paint by numbers style of instructions.
 
weenmeoff said:
Looks great Flump! That 70s porn star bush is really gonna get bushy now!

I've never topped like that, going down that far but will have to try sometime. I jut top the very top tiny growth. Many ways to skin this cat. I also like to FIM which stands for F*%× I Missed. Top but don't get the whole thing, get like 90%. A bunch of leaves will grow funky like you clipped the ends but it will get very bushy.

For brix, I don't think your using enough. I'd mix 1oz water with 1ml of brix. You may not use it all but you'll use most by the next time you do it, she'll be a monster. Then mix more as she gets bigger at the same ratio.

Cheers!:passitleft:
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Ok so Brix is ratio is 1:32, so for 32ml water you need 1ml Brix. Now I have 5ml water, so (5ml * 1ml) / 32ml == 0.15ml. Since 1ml is 20 drops, (0.15ml * 20 drops) / 1ml = 3 drops... (the real value is 3.125 drops but I rounded)
 
I have no idea what you just said flump!:rofl: are you a mathmatician?

Either way, the very simplest way to do the math is exactly as I explained it: for brix use 1oz of water with 1ml of brix and that same ratio once plants get bigger 2oz/2ml etc. For destress, cut the ratio in 1/2 or even less like Doogs suggested earlier 1oz water with 1/2 ml of destress.

This is 100% correct as far as I know but will ask Doc to confirm.

:passitleft:
 
weenmeoff said:
I have no idea what you just said flump!:rofl: are you a mathmatician?

Either way, the very simplest way to do the math is exactly as I explained it: for brix use 1oz of water with 1ml of brix and that same ratio once plants get bigger 2oz/2ml etc. For destress, cut the ratio in 1/2 or even less like Doogs suggested earlier 1oz water with 1/2 ml of destress.

This is 100% correct as far as I know but will ask Doc to confirm.

:passitleft:
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It's a confusing ratio cause you are using oz to ml......but that is happening all over the place quarts, oz, ml, grams :rofl: us Canadians like our metric system. It should work though.....whatever ratio you use as long as you stick to the same measurement for water to product if 1 part to 32 parts is stated.
 
weenmeoff said:
I have no idea what you just said flump!:rofl: are you a mathmatician?

Either way, the very simplest way to do the math is exactly as I explained it: for brix use 1oz of water with 1ml of brix and that same ratio once plants get bigger 2oz/2ml etc. For destress, cut the ratio in 1/2 or even less like Doogs suggested earlier 1oz water with 1/2 ml of destress.

This is 100% correct as far as I know but will ask Doc to confirm.

:passitleft:
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I actually do have a math background :rofl:

All good! :passitleft:
 
PCaddict said:
When we can grow outdoors I will do an LOS grow.
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Why? Why not test your soil and amend it for High Brix? It's Living, Organic Soil.....but much better.
 
Doc Bud said:
Why? Why not test your soil and amend it for High Brix? It's Living, Organic Soil.....but much better.
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Only because I already have Coots Mix and Supercool Super Soil already mixed. If not I would go with the kit. The kit works so much better then chasing your tail all the time chasing problems
 
PCaddict said:
Only because I already have Coots Mix and Supercool Super Soil already mixed. If not I would go with the kit. The kit works so much better then chasing your tail all the time chasing problems
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Except if you amend your backyard soil you can have high brix....but if you make it into Super Soil, you'll never have high brix.

If you already have the soil and you're in containers, no problem. But why not just amend the backyard?
 
Doc Bud said:
Except if you amend your backyard soil you can have high brix....but if you make it into Super Soil, you'll never have high brix.

If you already have the soil and you're in containers, no problem. But why not just amend the backyard?
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Absolutely....I heard someone say the food web can reach down 100ft below the roots. No root restrictions and the best lighting. Keep that soil for the indoor.
 
Still sick with the flu. Flu sucks. :nomo:
Little one looks nice. No change so far.. Pot is starting to feel light. I will dunk with plain water next time. I also plan on giving DeStress tomorrow or Saturday...
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