Flittermouse's NL#2 F2 Indoor Grow 2024

Hi,

Nothing interesting to report .

Patiently waiting for NL flowers to develop in the flower tent humming along at a consistant 80°F through a 12/12 light cycle .

I have been reading HDT's "Walden" for 49 + years and still profit from such.

In the begining I would underline . . . until I had the whole book underlined.

Several pages short of the end of 'Conclusion' one reads :

"Let us not play at kittly-benders. There is a solid bottom everywhere. [...] Give me a hammer, and let me feel for the furring. [...] Drive a nail home and clinch it so faithfully that you can wake up in the night and think of your work with satisfaction - a work at which you would not be ashamed to invoke the Muse. So will help you God, and so only. Every nail driven should be as another rivet in the machine of the universe, you carrying on the work."

Tending my plants is rather such as this - I am continually aiming at getting to the bottom .

And by bottom I mean "[...] a hard bottom and rocks in place [...] " ( Penultimate page of "where I lived and what I lived for" ) .
Hi,

Today I have a mistake to report . Mistakes happen and they are a good opoortunity to learn .

Following is a photo of Blk Flo plants potted for flowering . Notice the plant at upper right as damaged . This happened when transplanting .


During transplanting I snapped the main stalks of two plants as they had become too woody to bend enough to fit in pot without snapping .

That plant makes three casualties .

Following is a detail of broken plant :


I had 6 Blk Flo potted for vegetating and used two of them to replace the first two broken plants leaving me with 4 vegetating Blk Flo .

I will use one of the remaining four ( photo following ) to replace this third broken plant which will leave me with three vegetating Blk Flo - which is fine ; 3 is a good number .


I will use the plant with the most stems to flower , transplanting into the flowering soil and reserving the veg soil for furure use .

I got into this mess because I did not want to transplant the Blk Flo clones into flowering pots too soon in order to prevent the plants from getting too tall , and thus risking leaf burn ( under the flower light ) , while waiting for the NL to finish flowering .

I waited too long and the stems got woody and brittle making successful transplanting into #1 pots a risky endeavor .

Again , this is the reason I try to clone more plants than I actually need .

I would rather be up front about my mistakes rather than hide them because mistakes are learning events .

Next time I will transplant when the plants are ready ( not when I am ) and figure out how to limit their heights ( probably with LST ( Low Stress Training ) when the issue confronts me . After all , a dead plant can not be flowered !
I may end up having to cut them down to a growth node , which , if done early enough , may produce some virtuous branching .

Hope you can learn from my mistakes so you don't have to make them yourself .
 
Hi,

Today I have a mistake to report . Mistakes happen and they are a good opoortunity to learn .

Following is a photo of Blk Flo plants potted for flowering . Notice the plant at upper right as damaged . This happened when transplanting .


During transplanting I snapped the main stalks of two plants as they had become too woody to bend enough to fit in pot without snapping .

That plant makes three casualties .

Following is a detail of broken plant :


I had 6 Blk Flo potted for vegetating and used two of them to replace the first two broken plants leaving me with 4 vegetating Blk Flo .

I will use one of the remaining four ( photo following ) to replace this third broken plant which will leave me with three vegetating Blk Flo - which is fine ; 3 is a good number .


I will use the plant with the most stems to flower , transplanting into the flowering soil and reserving the veg soil for furure use .

I got into this mess because I did not want to transplant the Blk Flo clones into flowering pots too soon in order to prevent the plants from getting too tall , and thus risking leaf burn ( under the flower light ) , while waiting for the NL to finish flowering .

I waited too long and the stems got woody and brittle making successful transplanting into #1 pots a risky endeavor .

Again , this is the reason I try to clone more plants than I actually need .

I would rather be up front about my mistakes rather than hide them because mistakes are learning events .

Next time I will transplant when the plants are ready ( not when I am ) and figure out how to limit their heights ( probably with LST ( Low Stress Training ) when the issue confronts me . After all , a dead plant can not be flowered !
I may end up having to cut them down to a growth node , which , if done early enough , may produce some virtuous branching .

Hope you can learn from my mistakes so you don't have to make them yourself .
Hi,

Have been able to keep flower tent at 75°F - 80°F consistantly :


( I remember early grows when I first started and the first time i saw a mildew outbreak in the flower tent - horific . )

Following is the whole group of 6 NL plants at about 2 weeks of flowering under a 12/12 light cycle .


Following are two details of fan leaves supporting flowers .
If you look closely you may see evidence that the flowers may start to run down the stem . ( Yes , you will very much want to keep supporting fan leaves . ) I tend to manicure the colas as the fan leaves die back because manicuring after drying seems to compromise the resin sacks . Manicuring as much as I can , in a reasonable manner , before harvest , seems to produce the least waste ; and seems easier and cleaner . Maybe mostly my aesthetics ?



I love this stage of flowering , at about 2 weeks , when the pistils are out in force and flowering begins in earnest .
 
Hi,

Have been able to keep flower tent at 75°F - 80°F consistantly :


( I remember early grows when I first started and the first time i saw a mildew outbreak in the flower tent - horific . )

Following is the whole group of 6 NL plants at about 2 weeks of flowering under a 12/12 light cycle .


Following are two details of fan leaves supporting flowers .
If you look closely you may see evidence that the flowers may start to run down the stem . ( Yes , you will very much want to keep supporting fan leaves . ) I tend to manicure the colas as the fan leaves die back because manicuring after drying seems to compromise the resin sacks . Manicuring as much as I can , in a reasonable manner , before harvest , seems to produce the least waste ; and seems easier and cleaner . Maybe mostly my aesthetics ?



I love this stage of flowering , at about 2 weeks , when the pistils are out in force and flowering begins in earnest .
Hi,

Temp still at about 75°F . I guess my rather primitive climate control methods work well enough , (for now, at any rate) , .



Following is a view of all six plants at 3 weeks of flowering under a 12/12 light cycle :


Following is a detail of one plant with flowers :


And another :


Notice the pattern of flowering along the stem at the leaf nodes.

Following is a detail of a flower at 3 weeks :



Maybe next week I will have photos of resin glands begining to form; but, if not, then when they show themselves.
 
Hi,

Temp still at about 75°F . I guess my rather primitive climate control methods work well enough , (for now, at any rate) , .



Following is a view of all six plants at 3 weeks of flowering under a 12/12 light cycle :


Following is a detail of one plant with flowers :


And another :


Notice the pattern of flowering along the stem at the leaf nodes.

Following is a detail of a flower at 3 weeks :



Maybe next week I will have photos of resin glands begining to form; but, if not, then when they show themselves.
Hi,

As a follow up on post #21 about the trashed transplant of one Blk Flo plant for my next flowering :

I got around to transplanting a Blk Flo vegetating in vegetating soil into flowering soil .

The new transplant went through typical minor transplant shock . I put the new transplant into a breezy 60°F +/- moderately bright sunlight for a few hours before puting it under the LED .

Following is the plant , with the other 5 Blk Flo scheduled next for flowering , after spending the night under the LED. ( I will be sure to transplant when the main stalks are still young and flexable from here on out . ) ( There are ways to manage plants that are tending to become too tall but waiting to transplant them after the stalks have become woody is not one of them . )


I may have taken photos of the operation but the plant needed my full attention - free of distraction . But the roots did look good and healthy .

Following is a flower detail 2 days beyond the last post .


As a note , I harvested the Blk Flo I was growing out doors and gave a sniff test to two people , at different times , who are not cannabis consumers . Their responses where almost identical : 'Smells something like mint' . That is probably the Flo infuluence as Flo has been said to have menthol flavors . ( Amusing to note D. J. S. as the Willie Wonka of the cannabis world ) .

I am happy to have my next 6 plants getting ready for the next flowering so I had to post .
 
Hi,

As a follow up on post #21 about the trashed transplant of one Blk Flo plant for my next flowering :

I got around to transplanting a Blk Flo vegetating in vegetating soil into flowering soil .

The new transplant went through typical minor transplant shock . I put the new transplant into a breezy 60°F +/- moderately bright sunlight for a few hours before puting it under the LED .

Following is the plant , with the other 5 Blk Flo scheduled next for flowering , after spending the night under the LED. ( I will be sure to transplant when the main stalks are still young and flexable from here on out . ) ( There are ways to manage plants that are tending to become too tall but waiting to transplant them after the stalks have become woody is not one of them . )


I may have taken photos of the operation but the plant needed my full attention - free of distraction . But the roots did look good and healthy .

Following is a flower detail 2 days beyond the last post .


As a note , I harvested the Blk Flo I was growing out doors and gave a sniff test to two people , at different times , who are not cannabis consumers . Their responses where almost identical : 'Smells something like mint' . That is probably the Flo infuluence as Flo has been said to have menthol flavors . ( Amusing to note D. J. S. as the Willie Wonka of the cannabis world ) .

I am happy to have my next 6 plants getting ready for the next flowering so I had to post .
Hi,

Following are the 6 NL plants flowering at 4 weeks under a 12/12 light cycle.


4 weeks may be about half way to completed flowering. A significant portion of the flowering takes place during the final few weeks, as I have heard said; and which is consistant with my observations. An acceleration seems to take place. NL is said to complete flowering in 7 to 9 weeks. The final observations will be of the dark spots in the trichomes. when something like 30% to 40% of trichomes are dark then it is time to harvest??

Following is a detail of the flower pattern.


Following is a detail of one flower.


Zooming in may show the very begining of trichome development.

I have been using a tea of PPPP ( 5-10-2 ) in watering recently. The more P²O⁵ is probably good for flowering but maybe they would like more K²O. Maybe there is plenty of K in the MMM (M³) SOIL. I should know all of these details - but I don't. I will research and apply what I learn in the next ( Blk Flo ) flowering. The nutrients I'm using now should put me in the ball park, at any rate.
 
Hi,

Following are the 6 NL plants flowering at 4 weeks under a 12/12 light cycle.


4 weeks may be about half way to completed flowering. A significant portion of the flowering takes place during the final few weeks, as I have heard said; and which is consistant with my observations. An acceleration seems to take place. NL is said to complete flowering in 7 to 9 weeks. The final observations will be of the dark spots in the trichomes. when something like 30% to 40% of trichomes are dark then it is time to harvest??

Following is a detail of the flower pattern.


Following is a detail of one flower.


Zooming in may show the very begining of trichome development.

I have been using a tea of PPPP ( 5-10-2 ) in watering recently. The more P²O⁵ is probably good for flowering but maybe they would like more K²O. Maybe there is plenty of K in the MMM (M³) SOIL. I should know all of these details - but I don't. I will research and apply what I learn in the next ( Blk Flo ) flowering. The nutrients I'm using now should put me in the ball park, at any rate.
Hi,

For comparison, following are the plants after trimming in POST#15 and the plants at present.



Seems acceptable.
 
Hi,

For comparison, following are the plants after trimming in POST#15 and the plants at present.



Seems acceptable.
Hi,

Following are the 6 flowering NL at 5 weeks under a 12/12 light cycle :


Following is a detail of cola development as the flowers develop along the the stem at leaf nodes :


And, following is a bud detail showing trichome development :


Meanwhile, back at the VEG tent, following is an overall view showing some basic LST ( Low Stress Training ):


Following is detail of LST in the interest of keeping the plants low to the soil :


Following is another detail of LST in the interest of promoting growth in the lower reaches of the plant :


I have been refreshing my mind of the signs of flower maturity. The two hand books I often refer to are Rosenthal and Frank.

So, I am waiting for calyxes to fatten up and for the trichomes to turn dark.

When the pistils/stigma start to turn from silky white and as the brownish mushroom heads on the trichomes first begin to drop off, if not before, it will be time to harvest.

Then will begin drying and curing. And the begining of a new flowering.
 
Hi,

Following are the 6 flowering NL at 5 weeks under a 12/12 light cycle :


Following is a detail of cola development as the flowers develop along the the stem at leaf nodes :


And, following is a bud detail showing trichome development :


Meanwhile, back at the VEG tent, following is an overall view showing some basic LST ( Low Stress Training ):


Following is detail of LST in the interest of keeping the plants low to the soil :


Following is another detail of LST in the interest of promoting growth in the lower reaches of the plant :


I have been refreshing my mind of the signs of flower maturity. The two hand books I often refer to are Rosenthal and Frank.

So, I am waiting for calyxes to fatten up and for the trichomes to turn dark.

When the pistils/stigma start to turn from silky white and as the brownish mushroom heads on the trichomes first begin to drop off, if not before, it will be time to harvest.

Then will begin drying and curing. And the begining of a new flowering.
Hi,

6 NL overall at 6 weeks :


Cola development at 6 weeks :


Bud development at 6 weeks :


The flowering light lost half its LEDs :


Probably the fixture still emits plenty of light for a 3' square tent but I will be looking for a replacement.

I have had several flower lights burn out at, what seems to me to be, prematurity. The vegatating light will not flower but it does well in vegitating and has outlasted every other light I have had by a wide margin. The veg light has two light banks and I use just one bank at a time with success.

Every morning I switch one bank on and the second bank off. The logic is to extend the life of the light by using only half of the lights at a time. I see nothing lost for the effort.

I would like to find someone who is mechanically/technically/engineeringly inclined who may be able to canibalize my old lights for useful parts. Maybe they are basically trash and nothing worthwhile can be salvaged.

In any case I will be looking for a full spectrum light for flowering so that I have a light at hand when the one I am using now STB ( S**** The Bed ).

The veg light and flower light I am using are from the same engineers but they are no longer sponsers of 420, to my understanding, so I will not call them out.

When the flower light works it kicks a** and I have nothing but praise for the veg light.

UGH! more electrical waste on the way : (
 
Hi,

6 NL overall at 6 weeks :


Cola development at 6 weeks :


Bud development at 6 weeks :


The flowering light lost half its LEDs :


Probably the fixture still emits plenty of light for a 3' square tent but I will be looking for a replacement.

I have had several flower lights burn out at, what seems to me to be, prematurity. The vegatating light will not flower but it does well in vegitating and has outlasted every other light I have had by a wide margin. The veg light has two light banks and I use just one bank at a time with success.

Every morning I switch one bank on and the second bank off. The logic is to extend the life of the light by using only half of the lights at a time. I see nothing lost for the effort.

I would like to find someone who is mechanically/technically/engineeringly inclined who may be able to canibalize my old lights for useful parts. Maybe they are basically trash and nothing worthwhile can be salvaged.

In any case I will be looking for a full spectrum light for flowering so that I have a light at hand when the one I am using now STB ( S**** The Bed ).

The veg light and flower light I am using are from the same engineers but they are no longer sponsers of 420, to my understanding, so I will not call them out.

When the flower light works it kicks a** and I have nothing but praise for the veg light.

UGH! more electrical waste on the way : (
Hi,

Have been observing some aberant growth on the top of two plants and I just decided to give them a trim.

Following is before :


And after :


And before :


And after :


I don't know how to account for it. I could only guess - nutritional deficiency ? natural mutation ?

In any case, I have a new full spectrum light on the way. I will probably switch it out as soon as it arrives as the last few weeks of flowering is when a lot of the action takes place. I susspect the engineers are 420 sponsors but I will attempt to check on that before I call them out.

Sometime my veg light will go and I will rue the day because while I may find a fine full spectrum light I doubt I will find a light centered in the vegatative portion of the light spectrum - but it will be what it will be. I have been running that veg light more-or-less consistantly since about 2015 +/- if I am remembering correctly. I suppose there is nothing wrong with running full spectrum lighting but on the other hand why run light when not necessary. I would like to find some engineers who make a veg only light. maybe I will and maybe I will not. Efficiency turns me on.
 
Hi,

Have been observing some aberant growth on the top of two plants and I just decided to give them a trim.

Following is before :


And after :


And before :


And after :


I don't know how to account for it. I could only guess - nutritional deficiency ? natural mutation ?

In any case, I have a new full spectrum light on the way. I will probably switch it out as soon as it arrives as the last few weeks of flowering is when a lot of the action takes place. I susspect the engineers are 420 sponsors but I will attempt to check on that before I call them out.

Sometime my veg light will go and I will rue the day because while I may find a fine full spectrum light I doubt I will find a light centered in the vegatative portion of the light spectrum - but it will be what it will be. I have been running that veg light more-or-less consistantly since about 2015 +/- if I am remembering correctly. I suppose there is nothing wrong with running full spectrum lighting but on the other hand why run light when not necessary. I would like to find some engineers who make a veg only light. maybe I will and maybe I will not. Efficiency turns me on.
Hi,

The new LED full spectrum light came in, 6 days after placing order; and on a Sunday to boot !

I am fascinated by the engineering.

Following is an overall of the light and plants at 7 Wks flowering on a 12/12 light cycle and at a consistant 82.5 °F +/- :



Following is the hanging apparatus :



Following is the under side :


For comparison, following is the heat sink of the light which broke down :


Following is a detail of the heat sink of the new light :


The engineers modestly applied their logo on the back side of light so I have no photo but if you are motivated you may be able to recognize the design as that of one of 420's sponsors. This light is among their collection of lights for small tents; in this case, for 3'x3' tent.

The recommendation was to hang the light at 6" above plants when Temp </= 82.4°F and at 8" above plant when Temp >/= 82.5°F. I managed to have about 9" to 10" head room. ( I was carefull to have something like 24" +/- head room with the old light - so this is a very fine development which should open up new possibilities in growing technique. Thank you Phlizon. )

Interesting, to my mind, that a dimmer, which sweeps from 0 to 10, is used to adjust light output in order to accommodate seedlings, vegetating plants, and flowering plants.

Following an overall of the 6 flowering NL after one night under new light and 7 Wks overall :


Following is cola detail :



And a bud detail :


I have the old light as a backup in case something goes horribly wrong.

Thank you all for checking in.
 
Hi,

The new LED full spectrum light came in, 6 days after placing order; and on a Sunday to boot !

I am fascinated by the engineering.

Following is an overall of the light and plants at 7 Wks flowering on a 12/12 light cycle and at a consistant 82.5 °F +/- :



Following is the hanging apparatus :



Following is the under side :


For comparison, following is the heat sink of the light which broke down :


Following is a detail of the heat sink of the new light :


The engineers modestly applied their logo on the back side of light so I have no photo but if you are motivated you may be able to recognize the design as that of one of 420's sponsors. This light is among their collection of lights for small tents; in this case, for 3'x3' tent.

The recommendation was to hang the light at 6" above plants when Temp </= 82.4°F and at 8" above plant when Temp >/= 82.5°F. I managed to have about 9" to 10" head room. ( I was carefull to have something like 24" +/- head room with the old light - so this is a very fine development which should open up new possibilities in growing technique. Thank you Phlizon. )

Interesting, to my mind, that a dimmer, which sweeps from 0 to 10, is used to adjust light output in order to accommodate seedlings, vegetating plants, and flowering plants.

Following an overall of the 6 flowering NL after one night under new light and 7 Wks overall :


Following is cola detail :



And a bud detail :


I have the old light as a backup in case something goes horribly wrong.

Thank you all for checking in.
Hi,

Still monitoring the TEMP in flower tent.

Seemed to be running hot recently and I have no good explanation. TEMP at plant level was running about 90°F where it had been consistantly at about 85°F +/-. The light, being higher up, so slightly hotter (heat rises), was a concern because the manual says not to run light at/in(?) TEMPS higher than 104°F (40°C).

So, I turned heater down to lowest setting at 65°F (had been set at 70°F) and removed the blanket and throw which was draped over the top of the tent and made sure all the vents and pipe ports were open.

Then I attached the instant read cooking thermometer on the light hanging wire.

Under these configurations, the TEMP at light level is close to 80°F when light turns on :


Location of thermometer :



Radiator takes temp at bottom of unit and plants are between bottom of radiator, which was set at 65°F, and top of light, which, by thermometer reading, was 80°F - so, plants were about 72.5°F, I'm guessing.

I need another thermometer; maybe two.

See what a hastle primitive climate control can be?

I seem to be walking a fine line in trying to keep the plants hotter than about 68°F in order to ward off mildew and keeping the light TEMP below 104°F in order not to cause damage.

Today seems to have gone well and I will continue to monitor and make adjustments as needed.
 
Hi,

Still monitoring the TEMP in flower tent.

Seemed to be running hot recently and I have no good explanation. TEMP at plant level was running about 90°F where it had been consistantly at about 85°F +/-. The light, being higher up, so slightly hotter (heat rises), was a concern because the manual says not to run light at/in(?) TEMPS higher than 104°F (40°C).

So, I turned heater down to lowest setting at 65°F (had been set at 70°F) and removed the blanket and throw which was draped over the top of the tent and made sure all the vents and pipe ports were open.

Then I attached the instant read cooking thermometer on the light hanging wire.

Under these configurations, the TEMP at light level is close to 80°F when light turns on :


Location of thermometer :



Radiator takes temp at bottom of unit and plants are between bottom of radiator, which was set at 65°F, and top of light, which, by thermometer reading, was 80°F - so, plants were about 72.5°F, I'm guessing.

I need another thermometer; maybe two.

See what a hastle primitive climate control can be?

I seem to be walking a fine line in trying to keep the plants hotter than about 68°F in order to ward off mildew and keeping the light TEMP below 104°F in order not to cause damage.

Today seems to have gone well and I will continue to monitor and make adjustments as needed.
Hi,

My proposed solution to the heat problem in the flower tent is to hang an automatically oscillating clip-on fan with an EC (Electronically Commutated) motor above the light.

I may need an inline duct vent/fan for evacuating heat but an oscillating fan may move the air around enough to cool the light.

I placed an order for a 6" fan from a 420 sponsor. Rather than waiting untill the fan arrives, I will remove the new light and put back the old half burned out LED. I can not satisfactorily regulate TEMPS under present conditions. I have been able to keep the TEMP below 100°F (trying to stay below 104°F/40°C) largely because I have been able to monitor regularly and make adjustments. But I will not be present enough to satisfactorily monitor and adjust in the next few days.

Leaving the new light in the under-monitored tent would be risky. No reason to fatigue a new light when I already have a half burned-out one.

If I had been running a fan over the old light perhaps it would have not burned out. (I am assuming that over heating has fatal for the LED.) Because it was built without a fan, I assumed that heat dissipation had been reckoned with otherwise.

Not entirely a bad thing because now I can grow my plants about 12" taller without burning them under the light.

Looked at trichomes this morning under a 60x jewler's magnifying loupe and some of them are turning amber but saw no heads missing.

I have faith that the old light has plenty of juice left to finish flowering. Will be good to use the new light from the begining in the next flowering instead of at week 7.

I will track down an inline duct vent/fan so that I have it on hand in case I actually need it - which I very well might.

Looked at Granny420's present grow journal this morning and things look mighty fine. Lots to learn there.

If I can get my conditions stabilized, perhaps I can approach LST and QUAD techniques in new light.

Interesting comment by Waywardwayne on Post#78 of HashGirl's present journal on oxygen in water. (I do understand that cannabis roots do like oxygen and the plants do seem to grow well in soil having textured surfaces - to hold oxygen (?) ) .

Happy not to have to stress out new light but anxious to get it back on line.
 
Hi,

My proposed solution to the heat problem in the flower tent is to hang an automatically oscillating clip-on fan with an EC (Electronically Commutated) motor above the light.

I may need an inline duct vent/fan for evacuating heat but an oscillating fan may move the air around enough to cool the light.

I placed an order for a 6" fan from a 420 sponsor. Rather than waiting untill the fan arrives, I will remove the new light and put back the old half burned out LED. I can not satisfactorily regulate TEMPS under present conditions. I have been able to keep the TEMP below 100°F (trying to stay below 104°F/40°C) largely because I have been able to monitor regularly and make adjustments. But I will not be present enough to satisfactorily monitor and adjust in the next few days.

Leaving the new light in the under-monitored tent would be risky. No reason to fatigue a new light when I already have a half burned-out one.

If I had been running a fan over the old light perhaps it would have not burned out. (I am assuming that over heating has fatal for the LED.) Because it was built without a fan, I assumed that heat dissipation had been reckoned with otherwise.

Not entirely a bad thing because now I can grow my plants about 12" taller without burning them under the light.

Looked at trichomes this morning under a 60x jewler's magnifying loupe and some of them are turning amber but saw no heads missing.

I have faith that the old light has plenty of juice left to finish flowering. Will be good to use the new light from the begining in the next flowering instead of at week 7.

I will track down an inline duct vent/fan so that I have it on hand in case I actually need it - which I very well might.

Looked at Granny420's present grow journal this morning and things look mighty fine. Lots to learn there.

If I can get my conditions stabilized, perhaps I can approach LST and QUAD techniques in new light.

Interesting comment by Waywardwayne on Post#78 of HashGirl's present journal on oxygen in water. (I do understand that cannabis roots do like oxygen and the plants do seem to grow well in soil having textured surfaces - to hold oxygen (?) ) .

Happy not to have to stress out new light but anxious to get it back on line.
Hi,

Put back in the old half burned out light and attached 2 thermometers a few inches above the light in order to take the ambient TEMP proximate to the light. I have yet to take the operating TEMP of either apparatus (LED light). I have been using my hand to appproximate a difference (between ambient TEMP and operating TEMP).

The ambient TEMP above each light (before the fan) was consistantly in the mid to high 90s ( °F ) and very nearly pushing 100°F.
(That would indicate that the operating TEMP of the lights may have been significantly above 100°F and so close to or above the 104°F/40°C critical TEMP.)

With the fan on over night the ambient TEMP above the old LED was about 84°F +/- and the ambient TEMP at plant level was about 78°F +/- .

Ran the fan on oscilating mode and at a speed of one of ten. The result was a reduction of TEMP such that having an operating TEMP (of LED) below 104°F/40°C and having a flowering TEMP above 68°F, at the same time, seems entirely possible.

The fan turns on and off with the light. A very fine fan from a 420 sponsor.

I am going to switch back to the new light when the timer switches back on tonight. Seems to have worked out much better than I anticipated. Last TEMPS I took before light turned of was about 80°F at plants and about 85°F at lights. (Thank you engineers and all the other many people who dream up, design, and manufacture such apparatus.)

Following is ambient TEMP at light :



Following is ambient TEMP at plant level :


Following are the 6 NL plants as a whole at 8 weeks :



Following is detail of colas at 8 weeks :


And following is bud detail at 8 weeks :


Following is the fan in action above the light :


A well thought out clip mechanism made hanging a cinch. I might be able to position the fan better over the new LED as a function of the nature of the hanging wires. I may have photos tomorrow - but if not then soon.
 
Hi,

Put back in the old half burned out light and attached 2 thermometers a few inches above the light in order to take the ambient TEMP proximate to the light. I have yet to take the operating TEMP of either apparatus (LED light). I have been using my hand to appproximate a difference (between ambient TEMP and operating TEMP).

The ambient TEMP above each light (before the fan) was consistantly in the mid to high 90s ( °F ) and very nearly pushing 100°F.
(That would indicate that the operating TEMP of the lights may have been significantly above 100°F and so close to or above the 104°F/40°C critical TEMP.)

With the fan on over night the ambient TEMP above the old LED was about 84°F +/- and the ambient TEMP at plant level was about 78°F +/- .

Ran the fan on oscilating mode and at a speed of one of ten. The result was a reduction of TEMP such that having an operating TEMP (of LED) below 104°F/40°C and having a flowering TEMP above 68°F, at the same time, seems entirely possible.

The fan turns on and off with the light. A very fine fan from a 420 sponsor.

I am going to switch back to the new light when the timer switches back on tonight. Seems to have worked out much better than I anticipated. Last TEMPS I took before light turned of was about 80°F at plants and about 85°F at lights. (Thank you engineers and all the other many people who dream up, design, and manufacture such apparatus.)

Following is ambient TEMP at light :



Following is ambient TEMP at plant level :


Following are the 6 NL plants as a whole at 8 weeks :



Following is detail of colas at 8 weeks :


And following is bud detail at 8 weeks :


Following is the fan in action above the light :


A well thought out clip mechanism made hanging a cinch. I might be able to position the fan better over the new LED as a function of the nature of the hanging wires. I may have photos tomorrow - but if not then soon.
Hi,

Overlooked ambient TEMP at plant level after a night with the fan :


Still in the sweet spot - 75°F to 85°F.
 
Hi,

Overlooked ambient TEMP at plant level after a night with the fan :


Still in the sweet spot - 75°F to 85°F.
Hi,

I have been able to take good operating and ambient TEMPS at new light with EC (Electronically Commuted) fan running at speed 2 of 10 and the oil-filled electric radiator set at 65°F.

Following is location of instant read culinary thermometers :


And a detail of taking the operating TEMP at heat sink :



Following is the hanging system for light and hanging system for fan :


Operating TEMP at 88°F :


Ambient TEMP at light at 78°F :


Ambient TEMP at plant level at 75°F :


Overall of flowers at 8 weeks :


Detail of colas at 8 weeks :


Detail of bud at 8 weeks :


I have never felt as comfortable about the climate in my flower tent as I now feel.

I probably will not need the EC in-line evacuation fan which is headed my way but I may in the future and it will be good to have it at hand.

The trichomes are still turning amber with many still crystaline white. Did not notice dropped heads. Under 60x MAG.

9 weeks is said to be about the flowering time for NL, +/-. Maybe I will harvest colas as they suggest themselves to become harvested.
 
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