First Grow In 6 Years!

The seeds have been plantes in damp rockwool PHd to 6.0. There is also an extra seed in a cup of water. Once it sinks ill know Its good.

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**Update** My two seeds have cracked and sprouted tap roots i jave transplanted them in to nursery pots with FFOF soil wateres with tap water PH'd to 6.0.

My tap water actaully works pretty well ots about 6.7 straight out of the tap.
 
Very good. I like to watch the cotyledon leaves while waiting to feed nutes, if they start to yellow before the 3rd node or before 2 weeks is up then I'll hit them early. If they stay green they get nutes at 2 weeks or 3rd node. This was when I was using GH nutes. The nutes I use now you can start seedlings and clones on, 5ml per liter as soon as they break ground or show roots, no issues due to the buffers. then 5ml/L through the whole grow.
 
dick23rk said:
Very good. I like to watch the cotyledon leaves while waiting to feed nutes, if they start to yellow before the 3rd node or before 2 weeks is up then I'll hit them early. If they stay green they get nutes at 2 weeks or 3rd node. This was when I was using GH nutes. The nutes I use now you can start seedlings and clones on, 5ml per liter as soon as they break ground or show roots, no issues due to the buffers. then 5ml/L through the whole grow.
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That is interesting, i never thought to watch the leaves at such an early stage, thabks for the advice. I am feesing GH maxibloom so ill def start off light. Also do you have any suggestions for Auto lighting cycles?
 
West272 said:
That is interesting, i never thought to watch the leaves at such an early stage, thabks for the advice. I am feesing GH maxibloom so ill def start off light. Also do you have any suggestions for Auto lighting cycles?
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Those small cotyledon leaves are what store the plants nutrients for the first 2 or 3 weeks of its life until we introduce them. Now you'll watch them all the time. A plant will start to use any of its stored energy and nutrients from the bottom of the plant first, and work its way up. This is usually how deficiencies will creep up as well, from bottom then work up.

Auto light cycles... leave them on at least 18/6 for the whole grow. Some people do 20/4, all depends on you. But a photosynthetic plant certainly needs a dark cycle, this is when a lot of the action in the dirt happens, root growth and so forth. They can be grown in a 12/12 flower room with photoperiod plants, they just wont yield as much as they would with 18 hours of light.
 
dick23rk said:
Those small cotyledon leaves are what store the plants nutrients for the first 2 or 3 weeks of its life until we introduce them. Now you'll watch them all the time. A plant will start to use any of its stored energy and nutrients from the bottom of the plant first, and work its way up. This is usually how deficiencies will creep up as well, from bottom then work up.

Auto light cycles... leave them on at least 18/6 for the whole grow. Some people do 20/4, all depends on you. But a photosynthetic plant certainly needs a dark cycle, this is when a lot of the action in the dirt happens, root growth and so forth. They can be grown in a 12/12 flower room with photoperiod plants, they just wont yield as much as they would with 18 hours of light.
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Thanks for the advice again!! Your a life saver. I will most likely run a 18/6 lighting cycle. Now there is no need for a 12/12?
 
So just a little recap, on 4/09 the two girls (White Widow Autos) broke the surface to provide sprouts! I did notice something I forgot to mention though. The first girls first two leaves had "White around the tips" I am not entirely sure why that was, maybe some alight nutrient burn? I did put FFoF into the nursery pots perhaps this was too hot? All the other sprouts seem to like it however so i remain perplexed. Anywho today is 3 days since the girls broke the surface.

Today I added two new additions to the club, they arent part of the main show but they will hover on the fringes. They broke they surface around 4/10, and 4/11.

Here are a few pics:

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Nice to meet the additions! What strain are they?

That ffof could be a little hot for seedlings from what I've read. But are those tips actually white or are they a burnt rusty color?

I have seen some seedlings come out super pale and white looking before, some get their green back and move on, some may die or not even pop ground. Not sure that it is though. Oxygen deprivation possibly? How wet was you soil?
 
West272 said:
**Update** My two seeds have cracked and sprouted tap roots i jave transplanted them in to nursery pots with FFOF soil wateres with tap water PH'd to 6.0.

My tap water actaully works pretty well ots about 6.7 straight out of the tap.
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dick23rk said:
Nice to meet the additions! What strain are they?

That ffof could be a little hot for seedlings from what I've read. But are those tips actually white or are they a burnt rusty color?

I have seen some seedlings come out super pale and white looking before, some get their green back and move on, some may die or not even pop ground. Not sure that it is though. Oxygen deprivation possibly? How wet was you soil?
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The tips were actually white. Must have been that particular seed, it has disappeared mostly as the plant starts to grow. My soil was moist, watered it with 2 cups of ph'd (6.0) tap water.
 
West272 said:
The tips were actually white. Must have been that particular seed, it has disappeared mostly as the plant starts to grow. My soil was moist, watered it with 2 cups of ph'd (6.0) tap water.
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Glad it came out of it. They normally do unless majorly white.
 
dick23rk said:
That all being said, some autos go longer before flowering, and if they are a vigorous grower, you could possibly get some successful clones and flower them out, they just won't amount to much at all making the time and effort not worth it.
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My first grow was also a WW auto from 420. I started a clone just to see what would happen.
Here she is at day 34 while the other WWs were finishing. Is it doable? Yep. Recommended? Nope! LOL

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