Fanleaf's 1st Grams Per Watt Grow Under The 25 Cree COBS

Nismo12 said:
We started with reversing a DDA with CS then we need it with a carnival. Now we are on our 3rd run with it and it is amazing. It is a happy energetic high and has a very strong smell of limes. It's an absolutely beautiful plant.
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I see you bred it to carry the purple trait. Did the Carnival have the purple as well? I don't know anything about Carnival. Did all of the runs carry the purple or did you selectively breed it to keep it?
 
fanleaf said:
I see you bred it to carry the purple trait. Did the Carnival have the purple as well? I don't know anything about Carnival. Did all of the runs carry the purple or did you selectively breed it to keep it?
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Luckily through 3 rounds the purple has stayed since the carnival was not purple. This batch of seeds it is a toss up on them being autos or photos. So we are stabilizing an auto currently and a photo.
 
Man'O'Green said:
Fan:

I have done colloidal silver (easy peasy) before but I collected the pollen for future use and put it someplace safe never to be seen again - LOL.

Do you have any timing problems with self pollinating a plant and having enough time to get fully ripened seeds? I know I see the results but my previous research suggested a timing problem.

How is the quality of the buds that produce the seeds? THC? Flavor? Aroma? I would make oils and tinctures with them.
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I dont have timing problems because I don't follow the instructions that most give lol.
With autos, in my experience they usually start showing a flowering hormone change from 3.5-4 weeks old from the day they pop up from soil. So what I do is start spraying 1 branch with 2-3 sprays every day from 3 weeks old from soil pop. Yes, I use more silver then some people do but it's worth it because I only need 1 plant. That lets me keep a good plant and make exact genetic copies of her in the form of seeds. I spray everyday from 3 weeks old until I see signs of sacks. Then once sacks start to get close I pull one off and twist it by rolling it in my fingers....If they are old enough to see some pollen spill out I pull 1 off and twist over the plant and repeat with 5-6 sacks per day for a week. Not all sacks will spill pollen at this early stage but you can find 5-6 that will. If you wait until the sacks open on their own sometimes it can be too late especially with autos.

On photo plants I start spraying a few days to a week before I flip to 12/12. Then same as auto's, I spray 2-3 sprays every day until I see sacks will start forming. Again, when sacks get old enough that I can split them open and twist out pollen I do it manually instead of waiting another week until they open and spill on their own.

I do usually leave the male branch on the plant throughout the grow with autos and photos so it will continue to spill on it's own. I like to collect some as well and mix it with cooked flour 50/50.
 
TWINTURBODOGO said:
Why cooked flour?
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Because cooking it sterilizes it and ensures that it is dry. It keeps the pollen dry for long term storage. And sinse its mixed 50/50 it makes it easy with the added volume to brush it on many sites.
 
Good day everyone. I been asking myself a question and thought this might be the place on 420 to ask others.

The whole gpw thing is kind of confusing when it comes to COBs

Ppl using HPS harvesting 600g under 600W bulb say i have 1gpw, right? What they dont say is that the power used to light up 600W bulb is higher because of the ballast. Or am i completely off with that?

What if we cob guys want a fair competition? Lets say a build from 2xHLG240 powering 8 CXBs und pulling 440W from the wall yielding 440g.

Wouldnt it be right to check the drivers efficiency, lets say 94%, and only count the 413,6W this would be? This way it would be 1,06...not much difference... But how would you calculate your gpw this grow fanleaf?
 
SeymoreNugget said:
Good day everyone. I been asking myself a question and thought this might be the place on 420 to ask others.

The whole gpw thing is kind of confusing when it comes to COBs

Ppl using HPS harvesting 600g under 600W bulb say i have 1gpw, right? What they dont say is that the power used to light up 600W bulb is higher because of the ballast. Or am i completely off with that?

What if we cob guys want a fair competition? Lets say a build from 2xHLG240 powering 8 CXBs und pulling 440W from the wall yielding 440g.

Wouldnt it be right to check the drivers efficiency, lets say 94%, and only count the 413,6W this would be? This way it would be 1,06...not much difference... But how would you calculate your gpw this grow fanleaf?
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I too have put some thought into that seymore. What my brain always tells me is its best to just count whats being pulled from the wall regardless of ballast or drivers efficiency or inefficiency. If a driver or ballast is less efficient than another light type thats the problem of using that source of light.
Besides, can you imagine everyone recalculating watts used???? People would be trying to subtract 10% for driver, 4% for wire loss, 2% for this and 2% for that.....By the time people got done they would be counting ounce per watt instead of gpw lol.
Power watts from the wall is truly what gets used and I think the only way to go.
 
Buckshot317 said:
Has anyone used Phylos bioscience genetic testing. Seems like if person was wanting to create their own strain, it would be helpful to know it's true genetics before breeding. I have a gender kit coming. Still looking into the other kit.
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I have not. Very interesting!
 
By the way guys, it's now Sunday evening but I should mention that I added the two 48 inch UVB lights into the grow on Friday afternoon. I started it on its own timer. They come on five times her lights on and go on for 15 minutes and off for about an hour to an hour and a half and then back on for another 15 minutes about 5 times. So far the leaves are starting to show some stress and only two days of having the UV in there. That doesn't bother me a bit though as long as it doesn't fry them. If it is stressing the plants out a little bit that's good because that tells me it's going to force them to produce a whole lot of trichomes.
 
fanleaf said:
I too have put some thought into that seymore. What my brain always tells me is its best to just count whats being pulled from the wall regardless of ballast or drivers efficiency or inefficiency. If a driver or ballast is less efficient than another light type thats the problem of using that source of light.
Besides, can you imagine everyone recalculating watts used???? People would be trying to subtract 10% for driver, 4% for wire loss, 2% for this and 2% for that.....By the time people got done they would be counting ounce per watt instead of gpw lol.
Power watts from the wall is truly what gets used and I think the only way to go.
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I agree with total watts from the wall; after all are we not looking at the overall efficiency of the light?

How honest do you think most of these reports really are? I take three weight measurements: Wet Weight of the primo buds at harvest, Dry weight of the primo buds with 62% Boveda packs and two weeks cure (the one I compare to others). These two readings I will log for comparing strain characteristics. The third and to me the most important includes the dry primo buds, and the LARF that I make high quality oils and tinctures from. The larf has considerable economic value to me.

I have figured out a process to make a glycerin tincture that preserves most of the flavor of the original buds/larf. I use a MB2 on lowest heat 130° up to 4 ounces of larf/buds per 2 cups for 8 hours, strain well and then decarb in a closed mason jar in a hot oil bath ~250° for 30 minutes, add a little liquid Sunflower Lecithin while still hot for a great sublingual.

I do the same process for my coconut cannaoil. Instead of decarbing before processing I run the oil at 160° for 8 hours then decarb in a mason jar in a hot oil bath and add some lecithin. I really like the flavor better than decarbing the buds in the oven before processing.
 
Check this out guys. I figured I would put my $3400 freeze dryer to work. I wanted to try it with a small sample. This shit turned out far far beyond what I expected. Imagine product that is perfectly ready to burn but looks exactly like the day you chopped it!
 
fanleaf said:
I too have put some thought into that seymore. What my brain always tells me is its best to just count whats being pulled from the wall regardless of ballast or drivers efficiency or inefficiency. If a driver or ballast is less efficient than another light type thats the problem of using that source of light.
Besides, can you imagine everyone recalculating watts used???? People would be trying to subtract 10% for driver, 4% for wire loss, 2% for this and 2% for that.....By the time people got done they would be counting ounce per watt instead of gpw lol.
Power watts from the wall is truly what gets used and I think the only way to go.
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Just wondering if it happens that way for HPS? Do HPS growers count the whole W from the wall, or just what the bulb says? i always thought a HPS+ Ballast pulls more then the bulbs rating.

My idea was simply count your wallwatts VS driver efficiency levels in mind, nothing more involved.

I dont want this to be a new guideline for international gpw measurements...hehe

If we count from the wall with cobs we should count everything that is needed to use that 'grow unit' that'll be a true efficiency level, right right right? :-) no, dont get into the last sentence please^^
 
Man'O'Green said:
I have figured out a process to make a glycerin tincture that preserves most of the flavor of the original buds/larf. I use a MB2 on lowest heat 130° up to 4 ounces of larf/buds per 2 cups for 8 hours, strain well and then decarb in a closed mason jar in a hot oil bath ~250° for 30 minutes, add a little liquid Sunflower Lecithin while still hot for a great sublingual.
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Thats interesting, does the mix stay stable or seperate in any way after several weeks? I dont want to eat it, but mix ecig juice with infused vegetable glycerin
 
SeymoreNugget said:
Thats interesting, does the mix stay stable or seperate in any way after several weeks? I dont want to eat it, but mix ecig juice with infused vegetable glycerin
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Seymore:

It stays stable. Do Not put in the Lecithin for E-Juice. You will need to mix in some food grade PPG (propylene glycol). It is an ok vape but don't expect anything like vaping pure oils.

You may change your mind about sublingual after you taste it - yummy.:yummy:

Be sure to use the lecithin for edibles.
 
Man'O'Green said:
Seymore:

It stays stable. Do Not put in the Lecithin for E-Juice. You will need to mix in some food grade PPG (propylene glycol). It is an ok vape but don't expect anything like vaping pure oils.

You may change your mind about sublingual after you taste it - yummy.:yummy:

Be sure to use the lecithin for edibles.
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Sounds like you tried it in an ecig? I need something absolutely stealth and cheap so this might be the way to go. Will mask the taste with some aromas anyway...

Depending how strong my rso and bho smells in the wax atomizer i might give this a try. Just wanna stand next to my parents in law without any suspicious sniffs from them :-)

I'll try a mix with 35% PG and 65% infused VG plus some nice natural aroma that fits the strain

Maybe 1g of larf/bud per ml of VG will be a good idea for a small batch... What do you do with the glycerin soaked plant material after that?
 
SeymoreNugget said:
Sounds like you tried it in an ecig? I need something absolutely stealth and cheap so this might be the way to go. Will mask the taste with some aromas anyway...

Depending how strong my rso and bho smells in the wax atomizer i might give this a try. Just wanna stand next to my parents in law without any suspicious sniffs from them :-)

I'll try a mix with 35% PG and 65% infused VG plus some nice natural aroma that fits the strain

Maybe 1g of larf/bud per ml of VG will be a good idea for a small batch... What do you do with the glycerin soaked plant material after that?
Click to expand...

Yes I have tried several vape recipes. For a stealthy one decarb your bud in the oven before you extract into the VG; you will lose flavor and aroma but keep the THC. Do you have a Magic Butter Machine? If so the remaining plant material is just trash not worth keeping because it is so efficient at extracting the actives. Maybe bake it into something but I just throw mine away.

Depending on your vapor device I would start at about 20% PG. it gets too thin if you add too much. Although you get a bigger "cloud" with more!
:volcano-smiley:
 
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