Exceptionally High FECO Yields

I will send out positive energy with the easterly winds so your sails may be full. As windy as it is outside today it won't take long to get to you. When you smell oranges... :)
 
Hi Sky,
We will get pics tonight. Your right.
I am hoping my perlite comes today. Would you mind detailing the ingredients I will need to mix, keeping in mind I intend to follow you up the path of your faux db kit model? I need 30 gallons.

I ordered Cal/Mag on your recommendation to supplement MC .

As it turns out, when I made the Faux Mix, I only loosely followed instructions and since I'm not using Megacrop for my soil, my feeding practices and ingredients are much different than the hydro feeds. That said, my deviations in my Faux might be costly if using Megacrop and is why I have to defer you to Farside's original mix to play it safe. I would argue that my practice of using 3ft of peat to 2 ft of perlite would not alter the faux mix all that much, but there's a specific amount of garden lime you're supposed to use, but in my first blend I used a whole bag of it and in my 2nd blend, I didn't use any garden lime, but instead used mostly calcium carbonate.
 
Ahoy 420,
I have little idea how folks too whom the smells of a fresh harvest are worrisome, can possibly deal with the situation. The Northern Lights came down this morning and is now hanging beside the Girl Scout Cookies harvest. I have pounds of activated charcoal at key air circulation points. Candles, scented stuff of all sorts are deployed. Little help. Be careful. :)
 
Ahoy Maritimer, I have a question or 2. When I start the drought on my autos I'll be starting at an arbitrary week rather than 7 since they won't be ripening on a very tight schedule. How much life is left if they make it through the process? Do you resurrect them for any length of time? Or are they done with whatever trichome color you want at the end?
 
BroStone,

The only bit I know about auto’s I got from the Shed. Never grown them personally. I do not think it would be a problem (them being auto) as we do this in late bloom. The questions you asked are important.

The 7th week timing is not going to work with fast bloomers like some Northern Lights I have grown. The plants are often ready after just 50 days in flower. So, we go dry earlier. Also, to the question of rescue, you want to give the plant a full 3 or 4 days of unfertilized but heavily watered bliss after the drought. Water on day of rescue, wait a day, then water again before harvest.

The big question is your medium. The longer it takes for your medium to dry, the longer before the stress begins to be sensed by the plant. This is the key. It doesn’t matter how many days if you go by LWA. Your leaves will be the first indication the plant is being affected by drought. You need to have the plant experience 5 or 6 days of successive drought to initiate signaling of increased oils. As the days of drought add up the amount of wilt will also. You initiate rescue at 50 degrees accumulated LWA from turgid values. The only time you go the full 11 days would be with a plant strain that can handle longer dry periods. But anyone hits 50 and you rescue. Always, and with all strains.

Each day longer in drought gives the plant time to synthesize appropriate defense mechanisms we call cannabinoids. :)
 
MeJA study update;
After 24 hours the foliar elicitor has already affected pistillate size and populations. As expected the turgid LWA has now jumped up to full shade avoidance mode. They call it phototropism I think. To me it is shade avoidance. LOL The treatment was applied earlier in the flowering cycle of day 30 verses 40 in attempt to capture more of the period of flower development.
Fingers are anxiously crossed. I like what I am seeing. :bongrip:
I got pics because I was excited, but I will grab better after lights out.
Tickled Pink just thinking...
 


 
Maybe some coincidences?
WOW
 
BroStone,

The only bit I know about auto’s I got from the Shed. Never grown them personally. I do not think it would be a problem (them being auto) as we do this in late bloom. The questions you asked are important.

The 7th week timing is not going to work with fast bloomers like some Northern Lights I have grown. The plants are often ready after just 50 days in flower. So, we go dry earlier. Also, to the question of rescue, you want to give the plant a full 3 or 4 days of unfertilized but heavily watered bliss after the drought. Water on day of rescue, wait a day, then water again before harvest.

The big question is your medium. The longer it takes for your medium to dry, the longer before the stress begins to be sensed by the plant. This is the key. It doesn’t matter how many days if you go by LWA. Your leaves will be the first indication the plant is being affected by drought. You need to have the plant experience 5 or 6 days of successive drought to initiate signaling of increased oils. As the days of drought add up the amount of wilt will also. You initiate rescue at 50 degrees accumulated LWA from turgid values. The only time you go the full 11 days would be with a plant strain that can handle longer dry periods. But anyone hits 50 and you rescue. Always, and with all strains.

Each day longer in drought gives the plant time to synthesize appropriate defense mechanisms we call cannabinoids. :)
Great! It's ok to use it basically and end the game. Easy peasy. I want trichomes to be the right ripeness in the end. Have you looked to see if they change ripeness in the process?
 
I am color blind too extreme. Real milky for a while then chop. LOL
Or like my man PW says, if you think it is done wait a week.
 
I am color blind too extreme. Real milky for a while then chop. LOL
Or like my man PW says, if you think it is done wait a week.
Haha, I do chop milky generally. I just need to get a feel of timing. These babies aren't race cars and might have the 10 days in them. We're mostly clear with some milky now.
 
. These babies aren't race cars and might have the 10 days in them. We're mostly clear with some milky now.
remember the tip of the leaf is not your focal axis. Along the branchial seam compared against the inside angle formed by the leaf stem = LWA
 
Thanks, yes I have the original pages tucked away waiting for the process to get going. It's the peteoli vs the main stem angle, yes?
not sure of peteoli being what i call leaf stem?
take a fan leaf for example, the stem the blades grow on i call leaf stem.
 
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