Good info. It is falling into place.
Yes, this that Keffka mentions. Kick the fertilizer amounts up to the recommended doses. If you want you can contact Fox Farms for recommendations. It will not stop the yellowing process but should slow it down and help keep it under control. @bluter commented just a week or so ago that once the plant starts to use stored nutrients it will continue to take them from the leaves--the process cannot be stopped. So everything that can be done to slow it down can be considered a winner.
Agreed with @zigzagman1960 these plants are in rough shape and are gonna require a lot of work and intervention to make it through.
For comparison, these plants were flipped on September 25th, and this shot was taken last night.
I grow in a mineralized soil. No liquid nutrients, no chelates, no acids. Just blood, bones, poop, fish, minerals and dirt. The bottom right has about 2-3 weeks left, the other 3 have about 3-4 weeks left.
You should immediately raise your temperatures and increase your feeding. Since you’re already using liquid nutrients at any strength, I would just commit and use them full strength. At this point you’re just restricting your quality and yield. Those plants need everything from Ca to N to K.
My temps are daytime high 80s and noght time lows to 65-66..in a heated cool room with tent controls as well..ive also periodically topfed bonemeal seabird gauno and casting around flipGood info. It is falling into place.
First set of photos have a yellow color to them, either because of the lighting, the camera's software, or the actual color of the leaf.
My question about the start date is a way to tell if some of the yellow is because of the under-fertilizing mentioned in msg #1. I usually notice that the first week under 12/12 is enough to start the active growth of stigmas/pistils and the development of buds. The plants are on schedule with bud start and development since it will be 3 weeks this coming Tuesday. They are also on schedule showing deficiencies in nutrients.
Since the 23rd the amounts of green plant matter has been increasing with the bud development. The plant cannot get everything it needs as fast as it needs it from the soil. It is now taking some of the missing nutrients from existing leaves which is why they are starting to yellow.
Yes, this that Keffka mentions. Kick the fertilizer amounts up to the recommended doses. If you want you can contact Fox Farms for recommendations. It will not stop the yellowing process but should slow it down and help keep it under control. @bluter commented just a week or so ago that once the plant starts to use stored nutrients it will continue to take them from the leaves--the process cannot be stopped. So everything that can be done to slow it down can be considered a winner.
I grabbed one of Saturday's group of photos and cropped it down to emphasis what I noticed. The leaf yellow can still be partly the lights and camera but it is also is a sign of the start of Nitrogen (N) and Potassium (K) deficiencies. The spots are classic signals of excessive Potassium shortage as shown on Jorge Cervantes nutrient excess and deficiency chart.
Not sure about the temperatures since you never mentioned what it is and I cannot see a thermometer in any photo.
From 10-23 till 12-18 is 1 week to start and 7 weeks of bud growth. Going up to Christmas Day is 1 week to get started and 8 weeks of bud development. You should be able to pull off a harvest.
Thank u very much for ur advice my friend
Just a tip; the activated bio-char will be doing the best when added while mixing up the soil at the beginning of the planting. That way there is some in every cubic inch of soil for the plant roots to find. It is the microbes that will be living in the bio-char and the stored Nitrogen and other nutrients that then become important. 10% activated bio-char seems to be a usual ratio but if the gardener can afford it they can go to 20%.
You mentioned that sentence that I copied above in your first msg of the thread. I noticed that you have mentioned reduced fertilizer amounts in some of your other threads. Is there any particular reason why you are limiting the amounts and how often that they are applied? Kinda curious about that since you have had several coco coir, Coco Loco and other medium grows.
I have gotten large yieldswith the method and not had to frequently flush...it is part of the marketing strategy to suggest use above what is needed...im a MINIMALIST in FERT..ive yielded same of not hugger yoekds for same setups with it this way..
