DrCannaCanadian: MarsHydro & Seedsman, Soil & Coco, 2020

Dagobah Frost Forest
Update


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Vegetation - Day 24

Hello 420!

The Force is strong in the garden today!

We finally introduced Green Leaf Nutrients Mega Crop into our feeding regimen today.

We recently ran out of Advanced Nutrients B-52 , so we decided to start transitioning into Mega Crop to make sure we get a new higher level of performance and completeness.

We are so glad we don't have to pay a fortune for Advanced Nutrients products ever again!

Princess Leia and Obi-Wan Kenobi (Peyote WiFi) are on fire! We will take some close ups soon to showcase just how well they are growing.

Emperor Sidius and Darth Maul (Tangie Cookies) had their LST wires removed today.

Darth Maul (Tangie Cookies) was fed 3 litres (3 quarts) of the MegaCrop cocktail today and we will be watching closely for any unhealthy symptoms to show up. We need to make sure we dial in the feed properly before we give our MegaCrop cocktail to the other coco plants!

We are going to be feeding the plants that are in soil with only pH 6.5 water until we know that our "hot" soil issue has been resolved and the soil plants are completely stable!

It would be so nice to go an entire grow with really healthy plants!!!

If we want to harvest a plant on 420 - then we will need to flip to 12-12 on Monday February 17, 2020 - two weeks from now.

Let's see what the garden look like by then.

And here are our Seedsman Jedis living it up with Mars Hydro - what a powerful duo they make:









Oh man they are already getting big! They're gona grow to be legends, just like their names.

Nice to see you are using Mars Hydro lamps. I got three smaller models last year from them after doing my own research. One of few direct retailers that had DHL shipments from a location in Europe. Really saticfied with the results they gave last year and I'm sure they will help me grow even better crops this year, specially now that I got professional growers here to give advice and help me improve. Already thinking of upgrading the smallest model, but I'll see if/when my financial situation allows it. Happy to see others using the same brand.
 
Daily Tips & Tricks

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By Coco For Cannabis



Topping Cannabis Plants: Why, When & How

Topping is a central and fundamental plant training practice. It enables you to train your plants to grow horizontally and make the most efficient use of the light. In this article we explain the science of apical dominance and the reasons why you should top cannabis plants. We provide simple instructions for when to top cannabis plants to avoid stunting and get the best results. Topping is actually rather simple and any grower can master it. We offer useful advice for how to top cannabis plants.

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Topping is a “high-stress” training technique which entails removing the top growth tip from the main stem or a branch. Many growers are concerned that cutting the top off their young plants may slow their grow down, however, when done properly, topping is a critical method to fill the canopy faster and reduce vegetation times.

Why Top Your Plants

Cannabis plants typically grow tall and skinny, much like a Christmas tree. Without training, they have minimal lateral growth and concentrate most of their resources in one stem with one main cola. They display a phenomenon called “apical dominance”, which is the key factor that determines the directional growing characteristics of plants. Different types of apical dominance lead different plants to produce their patterns of both vertical and horizontal growth. This programming in plants is an evolutionary adaptation to their typical growing environments.

The landrace varieties that are the source of modern cannabis genetics are typically tall fast-growing annuals that are in competition with other plants for canopy space. Thus, they grow in a shape that is effective for that environment. However, we are not growing them in that environment!

There are other plants that grow flat and broad because they are adapted for environments where light is scarce. These plants serve as a better model for us to think about when trying to make the most effective use of overhead light. Ideally, we want low broad plants that harvest every photon of light energy available to them.
Apical Dominance and Auxins in Cannabis

Cannabis naturally grows like a Christmas Tree because its apical dominance is set for tall skinny growth. It is possible to achieve some degree of lateral growth dominance with nothing but low-stress training (LST), but the single most effective way to break the apical dominance in cannabis is to cut off the apex, by topping the plant.

The top or end shoot, which is the main growing point in plants, contains the hormones which control the functions for apical dominance. Auxins, are one hormone that appears to play a particularly significant role. The apical growth tip produces auxins, and they are transported through the phloem, always downward, where they inhibit the growth of lateral growth tips lower on the plant. The auxins prevent elongation of the growth-tips below the apex, however, they don’t travel long distances through the plant. Therefore, as the plant gets taller, the lowest branches become freed from the inhibiting effects of the auxins and begin developing. This produces the classic “Christmas tree” shape.

The Topping Technique

Topping allows us to manipulate the growth patterns of the plant by removing top apical growth tips where auxins are produced. This is called, “breaking the apical dominance”, and it allows lateral branches to develop. Many plant training practices such as manifolding and mainlining, rely on topping as a component technique. However, it can also be used on its own to break apical dominance and train cannabis plants.

When To Top Cannabis Plants

We generally recommend that you wait until your cannabis plants have 6 nodes before topping them. This ensures that they get adequate stem and root development before the shock of topping. Because of the nature of how auxins behave and what is most efficient for light, we recommend topping the plant above the 4th, 5th or 6th node.

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Topping higher than the 6th node, can lead to uneven dominance and a pattern that prioritizes vertical growth. Manifolds and Mainlines are often topped down to the third node, but if you are not following those training practices, topping below the fourth node will leave too few branches to develop.

Equipment for Topping Cannabis

If you plan to do any topping or pruning then you will need to get a pair of pruning snips. These will also be your number one tool for trimming the harvest!

Fiskars Non-Stick Softgrip Microtip Pruning Snips

These Fiskars snips are really the best on the market and every grower owes themselves a pair. We linked the non-stick version because that feature really helps later when you are trimming the sticky resinous colas.

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How To Top Cannabis Plants

When the plant has reached the 6th or 7th node, it is ready to be topped. Choose a node to “top to”. If you “top to” the fourth node that means that you leave the fourth node and all the branches below that. We recommend topping to the 4th, 5th, or 6th, node.

When you top the plants, you are completely removing the upper growth. No new growth will develop from the growth tip that has been cut. This allows the lower lateral growth to assume the dominance. Since there are two growth tips at each node, you effectively double the number of dominant growth tips every time that you top the plant.

You may top the plant to the 6th node as the seventh node is emerging by carefully removing the growth tip just above where two new shoots are forming. If you top lower than the 6th, you are going to be cutting away a significant portion of the upper growth on a plant (see pictures). This is the aspect that can be hard for new growers to accept. We nurture our little seedlings and then we chop off their heads!

The actual act of topping is incredibly simple. Take a pair of pruning snips and snip off the growth tip. To further reduce the possibility of infection, we recommend that you sterilize your snips before using them to top. This can be done with heat (boiling water or open flame), but let the snips cool again before use.

We recommend topping high on the stem, rather than just above the node. This section of “stump” will help the plant recover from the injury and it mitigates the risks of stem splitting or infection.

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The plant above is going to be “Manifolded” so it is topped to the third node, rather than the fourth. Topping low, requires removing significant growth. However, if the plant is not topped it will put all of its energy into the one main top. By topping it, I now have two main growth tips! This may make you feel like it is setting you back, however, look at this plant just 6 days later… It is twice the plant it used to be!

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Topping is a wonderful plant training practice on its own. It is also a key aspect of other training strategies. The plants pictured in this tutorial are topped in preparation for mainline and manifold training. See our series of articles on mainlining and manifolding and learn why we think they are the best ways to train cannabis plants.
 
Dagobah Frost Forest
Update


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Vegetation - Day 25

Hello 420!

After introducing Green Leaf Nutrients Mega Crop into our feeding regimen yesterday, we are keeping a close eye on all of the coco plants.

We moved Princess Leia (Peyote WiFi) and Obi-Wan Kenobi (Peyote WiFi) to the front of the tent, which makes it much easier for us to water them now.

The Peyote WiFis each had 8 nodes, so we topped them above node #7 and just below node #8.

Please remember to wash & to sanitize your hands:



Also, please remember to sterilize your equipment:




I keep trying to get better at taking pictures and videos, but it's going to take time! And today I figured out that I should hold my phone sideways for the video to fit better. :cool:




And for all you Star Wars, Seedsman, Mars Hydro and Cannabis fans:








 
My Growing Experiences
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By DrCannaCanadian

How To Water Seedlings In A Solo Cup Of Soil

I recently had a question on using weight, instead of feel, to water seedlings in solo cups. And since we know how easy it is to overwater seedlings, I put together a few tips from my own experiences to help me out in my future grows.

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1) Establish our dry weight - the point at which we need to water:

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2) For a newborn seedling, it is safer to water with only 30 ml (1oz) of water (no nutes & pH of 6.50) down the middle to help drive the primary tap root to the bottom of the cup. For newborns, we can also alternate between watering the middle and watering the edges of the cup. For a 1 week old seedling, we can water slowly & gently, with about 90 ml (3 oz) water only (no nutes & pH of 6.50), or until we see run-off dripping out the bottom. Remember, we want the soil to be moist, not soaking wet.

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3) Spritz lightly with water every 12 hours for the next 24 hours - use a humidity dome if you want:

4) Weigh again after 24 hours:


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5) Here's where a lot of people can get into trouble! Most of the water is now pooled at the bottom of the solo cup. We need the plant to drink that water over the next 24 hours. So, use a shot glass and slowly water the edges of the soil with 30 ml (1 oz) of water. Then walk away!

6) Spritz lightly with water every 12 hours for the next 24 hours - use a humidity dome if you want:

7) Somewhere between 12 hours and 24 hours later, we should be ready to water again:


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7) In summary, for soil in a solo cup, we can see there is approximately a 2 day wet/dry cycle for soil.

Excellent guide!! I noticed you use the word "soil" a few times, and just wanted to clarify if the guide works just as well for coco, or if some changes would be needed? Many thats sir!
 
Excellent guide!! I noticed you use the word "soil" a few times, and just wanted to clarify if the guide works just as well for coco, or if some changes would be needed? Many thats sir!

Excellent question @GardeningGnome !

I use the specific term "soil" because there are significant differences that will show up for coco - such as initial watering volumes, EC feed strength, and pH levels!

I would make a second artice specifically for coco so there would be less confusion and less risk of grower error.
 
Excellent question @GardeningGnome !

I use the specific term "soil" because there are significant differences that will show up for coco - such as initial watering volumes, EC feed strength, and pH levels!

I would make a second artice specifically for coco so there would be less confusion and less risk of grower error.

Guessed that was the case! Just wanted to be 100% sure, and ask if anyone else had the same question.

I got a few seeds that just have "said hello" and the first pair of real leaves are showing on almost all of them planted in coco. Would you suggest that any nutrients should be added during the first days of watering? The coco was not soaked in any nutrients, only water and nematodes (due to a battle with Sciaridae).


Again, thanks for your excellent journal. I've saved a few of your guides onto my harddrive even, just to make sure I don't forget them or they get lost in all the goodies you post. And thanks for dropping by my journal, I've answered the questions you had last time and also posted new images of Hera's purple stem and top. Feel free to check it out. I'm also writing a summary of audiobooks on the subject of cannabis to post during the evening, wanted to share the ones I've found with the lovely community.

I wish you a great day!!!
 
Daily Tips & Tricks

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By Royal Queen Seeds



Cannabis Seed Quality: What To Know Before You Grow

Are your seeds light or dark in colour? Are they tough under pressure or do they turn to dust? These are some of the ways to tell if your seed is healthy and worth growing.

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One of the keys to achieving healthy and vigorous cannabis plants is starting with high-quality seeds. Of course, prime nutrients, adequate watering, and good light quality all contribute to the final yield obtained. But starting a grow with tip-top genetics is equally, if not more important. Carefully sourcing high-quality cannabis seeds will ensure you are receiving the exact genetics you are looking for. Not only will they provide you with the desired cannabinoid and terpene profiles, they will help you to avoid dud seeds.

There are several factors to look for when purchasing seeds, and certain signs that signify the seed isn’t worth the time and effort.

APPEARANCE AND FEEL

One good way to gauge the quality and traits of a cannabis seed is to get used to how they look. Some details are glaringly obvious, whilst others take some time to identify quickly. Healthier and genetically superior seeds will exhibit darker colours on the outer shell. Shades of grey and black are signs of a good seed, sometimes displaying a tiger stripe aesthetic.
Healthy seeds will also look as though they have a coating of wax of their shell. This can be made obvious when exposing them to a bright light and witnessing a sheen effect.
Darker and better-quality seeds will feel firm to the touch. Place the seed between your thumb and index finger and give it a squeeze, not enough power to bend metal, but enough to tests its resilience. If the seed feels firm and does not bend or break under the applied pressure, then it's more than likely worth planting.

Poor-quality or old seeds will crack and crumble under pressure. If they break into parts under slight pressure, they will be unusable. But they wouldn’t have been worth the time anyway. Seeds are simply pods of a plant genetics. With time, they will age and become unusable. Seeds that are obviously past their prime are not worth wasting time on.

Immature and young seeds will be green and white in appearance. It is unlikely that these seeds will germinate, and if they manage to, it will just take longer. It is worth obtaining fresh seeds that are of optimal age.
SEEDS FROM A BAG

Some smokers might be pleased to see some cannabis seeds in their bag, and might think themselves lucky. However, finding seeds in a bag is bad for various reasons. For one, this means the grower has messed up and allowed their female plants to be pollinated by an invading male. When flowers are pollinated, they stop producing THC-containing resin and divert their energy toward producing seeds. Secondly, the seeds will have added to the overall weight of the bag, which means less weed for your buck.

With this said, you may get lucky if the strain they were growing really is prime. In this case, it’s worth carrying out the following test to see if it’s worth germinating.

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GERMINATE THEM REGARDLESS

The one true method to test the genetic potential of a seed is to simply put it in the soil. It won’t take too long to see the results. This option is best for the hobby home grower who has time and space to spare for a risky project. Growers cultivating cannabis for commercial use likely don’t have the excess time to invest.

SOURCE WELL

A solid way to obtain great seeds is to find a reputable seed bank. These companies pride themselves of their breeding skills and make sure that their customers receive exactly what has been advertised. They have reputations to cater to, so delivering anything less would only harm their image.

The alternative to this is to risk buying seeds from a hobbyist. This isn’t to say that hobby growers cannot produce fantastic genetics, but if you don’t know them or their skills, there’s no way to know whether your seeds will grow.

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CONDUCT THE FLOAT TEST

If you are still unsure about the quality of your seeds after analysing their appearance and toughness, it’s time to put your lab coat and goggles on. Well, not quite. This test is extremely easy and only has two possible outcomes. Fill up a drinking glass or glass jar with water (preferably spring or distilled) and place your seeds on the surface.

This simple and cost-effective method is a great way to tell the good genetics from the bad; they will sink or swim, literally. Seeds that remain buoyant on the surface are more than likely of poor quality and are to be discarded. Seeds that sink to the bottom like a botanical cannonball are probably healthy and should be germinated.

However, slight patience is required when conducting the float test, as results are not immediately apparent. You'll have to wait for approximately 1–2 hours before confirming the results. Some good-quality seeds will need adequate time to absorb enough water for them to sink. Use this time to go water the garden and get some much needed pruning done. Upon your return, any seeds that remain on the surface are most likely not viable and won't be worth further time and effort.

It's important to only conduct this test if you are planning to germinate the seeds immediately afterwards. The viable seeds that sunk to the bottom of the glass will have taken in water, crossing the membrane of the seed and signalling that it's time to come to life—activating germination.
 
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Good luck everyone!
 
Daily Tips & Tricks

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By Royal Queen Seeds



Cannabis Terpenes: How They Work and Their Effects

Terpenes give cannabis plants their unique flavours and smells. Research now shows that they may also play a role for the effects of each strain, so we take a look at what they are and how they work.

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WHAT ARE TERPENES?

Terpenes are what gives cannabis strains their distinctive flavours. They are the aromatic oils that the plant produces and that make a strain taste fruity or minty, give it an earthy or citrusy aroma or can make it smell like cheese.

Cannabis plants produce terpenes in the same glands where they produce THC and CBD, yet terpenes have until recently not gotten too much attention. Growers and medical researchers have in the past focused on THC and CBD, which means the knowledge about terpenes and their function isn’t too widely spread. Only recently has come to light that terpenes play a major role when it comes to the unique effects of marijuana.

Why do plants produce aromatic compounds such as terpenes?

As is often the case in the world of plants, terpenes are one way how plants can defend themselves from predators. By excreting a pungent aroma, plants can repel certain bugs but can also attract the beneficial insects that they need for pollination.

How much and what type terpenes a cannabis plant produces depends on various factors. The same strain doesn’t necessarily always produce the same aromatic compounds. This can depend on factors such as the climate, what soil and fertilisers are being used, the age of the plant, as well as a few other things.

Today, we have discovered about 100 different terpenes in marijuana. Each particular strain has its unique types and combination of terpenes in various concentrations.

The most interesting thing about terpenes, however, is not that terpenes are responsible for cannabis’ multitude of distinctive flavours and aromas, but that terpenes work synergistically with cannabinoids, such as THC. One indication for this is that some strains may have the exact same levels of THC and CBD, yet their effects can be quite different from each other. Researchers are now saying it is the terpenes that are responsible for a strain’s unique effects.

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HOW DO TERPENES WORK?

We know that THC binds to our brain’s receptors causing the psychoactive effects of cannabis. Terpene can actively affect those brain receptors and the way they work. Terpenes have been found to influence how much THC enters the brain through the blood-brain barrier. Most importantly, science has shown how terpenes can directly influence the brain’s neurotransmitters in various ways.

It is noteworthy to mention that not all types of terpenes work the same, either. Some types may influence the brain in a way as to relax us while others have the opposite effect, lifting our mood and energy levels.

Some cannabis users may know about the effect of eating a ripe mango 45 minutes before smoking. It is said that doing so can greatly increase the effect of marijuana. One theory here is that mangos contain Myrcene, a terpene that we can find in some fruits. The Myrcene acts in synergy with the THC and directly alters how it affects us.

TERPENES – THE NEXT FRONTIER FOR MEDICAL CANNABIS

These findings showing the role of terpenes in producing very distinctive types of highs are now elevating the cannabis industry, research, and cultivation to all-new promising levels. Terpenes are now becoming the worthwhile focus, not just for connoisseurs who seek a certain flavour, but also to those wanting to understand and maximise marijuana’s effects. The medical cannabis industry, in particular, is interested in the effects of terpenes and their synergy with cannabinoids.

Terpenes make way for plenty of new and exciting research: We can now directly influence the herb’s high and “tune” it according to our needs.

By adding limonene, for instance, we can get a stimulating effect. In the same way, we can add linalool if we desire a more relaxing and sedative high from the plant.

Laboratories are beginning to test strains not just for THC and CBD but also for their terpene content. When we understand what types of terpenes are in a particular strain, we can know beforehand about its effects.

Understanding about terpenes opens new levels of medical research about the effects of cannabis. This means new exploration opportunities for cultivators and seedbanks. One may speculate that it won’t take too long until a strain’s smell will be sufficient enough information to be able to predict its particular effect!

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THE COMMON TERPENES IN MARIJUANA

As discussed, there are more than 100 different types of terpenes in marijuana; however, this doesn’t take into account the many different variations – such as amount and concentration. A good example of this would be to compare a lemon to an orange. Both fruits contain the exact same type of terpene, limonene, but in different concentrations. A small variation of the amount is enough to make a lemon smell quite different to an orange.

MYRCENE

Myrcene is the most commonly found terpene in marijuana, making-up the majority of aromatic oils in various cannabis strains. Myrcene can also be found in some other plants such as hops. Some compare Myrcene’s aroma to that of cloves. It is known to have anti-inflammatory, anti- bacterial and pain-relieving (analgesic) properties. Myrcene has a sedative, calming and relaxing effect. It is known to increase the psychoactive effects of THC.

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LIMONENE

After Myrcene, Limonene is the second-most common terpene that we find in marijuana. As the name suggests, it has a strong citrus smell. It is known for its anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. Research suggests that limonene also works as an anti-carcinogenic and that it may help preventing the growth of tumours.

Limonene can effortlessly enter the blood-brain barrier. It is understood to help increase mental focus and attention, as well as benefitting our general well-being. There is anecdotal evidence that it is also beneficial for sexual health. Some products on the market today use limonene to treat depression and anxiety. It is a natural insect repellent, one of the aromatic terpenes plants use as a natural defence from insects and other predators. Haze strains are a great source of this terpene.

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LINALOOL

Linalool is reminiscent of fresh flowers. It has a floral lavender smell with a hint of spiciness. It induces a sedative and calming effect and is used for the treatment of nervousness and anxiety. It is thought to have analgesic and anti-epileptic properties. Its effectiveness in treating certain types of cancers is also currently being researched. Linalool is the terpene that is partly responsible for the calming and sedative effects of certain cannabis strains.

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CARYOPHYLLENE

Caryophyllene is a spicy flavour that is often found in herbs and spices such as black pepper. It is known for being a strong local anti-inflammatory and analgesic. Cloves that are known as being a natural remedy for toothaches contain good amounts of this terpene. Caryophyllene is also said to be anti-fungal.

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PINENE

The name might give it away; pinene has a scent that reminds of pine and fir trees. Many plants contain pinene; for example, Rosemary and Sage. This terpene is understood to have anti- inflammatory and local antiseptic properties. It is also known as being an expectorant and has a widening effect on the bronchi. Research has shown that pinene can positively affect our memory. Among those cannabis strains with high levels of pinene are the various Skunk strains. Pinene can boost energy and is said to improve concentration.

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TERPINEOL

Terpineol has the scent of lime blossoms as well as the pleasant smell of lilac. It is often used to make perfumes and cosmetics. Terpineol is one of the terpenes with a sedative and relaxing effect. Cannabis strains that have high levels of terpineol are often also containing high amounts of pinene. The pinene can make it difficult to detect the terpineol just by smell.

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NEROLIDOL

Nerolidol is found in ginger, citronella and niaouli. It is used as a flavouring agent and in perfumery. It has a wooden, earthy-fresh aroma that reminds of bark. In terms of therapeutic benefits, Nerolidol is thought to be anti-fungal and is effective for the treatment of malaria. Nerolidol has a sedative and relaxing effect.

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BORNEOL

Borneol, found most abundantly in Rosemary, has a fresh, minty camphor aroma. This terpene has a long history in Chinese medicine where it sees use for the treatment of stress and fatigue. It is a local anaesthetic with sedative and antispasmodic properties. It is also a natural insect repellent.

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EUCALYPTOL

Eucalyptol is the terpene found in essential eucalyptus oil. It has very fresh, cooling and minty smell. It is thought have pain-relieving properties along with its ability to improve concentration and focus. For that reason, it is also often found in plants that are used for meditation.

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MY Growing Experiences

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By DrCannaCanadian


The Vault & Dinafem - Quality Genetics From Pioneers In The Cannabis Industry

Hey 420!

Just remember, we always want you to be saying "MY Harvest" is going to be a Maximum Yield Harvest!

Some of you may know already that @George from The Vault is giving away some very high quality seeds:


Active sponsors are very important here, and we give them as much kudos as we possibly can, and as often as we can!

In the FAQs we are constantly saying "High Quality Seeds Are Your Best Friends" - and growers new and old need to fully understand just how much effort goes into cultivating an award winning cannabis strain.

Cultivators like Dinafem are extremely proud of what they do - and here's what they promote:
  • Meticulous selection of the best marijuana seeds: We mechanically and manually cleanse the marijuana seeds from any vegetable remains. We classify them by size and we only pick the very best ones.
  • Controlled storage for optimum conservation: The containers used to store Dinafem seeds are meticulously cared for. We constantly monitor temperature and humidity levels in order to make sure our marijuana seeds are stored in perfect conditions.
  • Innovative packaging to ensure risk-free transport: The marijuana seeds are packaged and transported to your home in Eppendorf Microtubes. The cannabis seeds and Silica Gel are placed inside these light but durable tubes, separated by a polyurethane membrane. The gel regulates humidity, ensuring that the natural qualities of the cannabis seeds are protected.

It is critical to understand that we, as growers, need to do our due diligence. We need to research seed banks and seed cultivators carefully. Doing so, will give us the confidence in knowing that when we spend our hard earned money, we are not getting ripped off by some hack working out of their garage trying to make a quick buck off suckers.

We need to be assured that when we drop a few hundred bucks on this season's seeds, that we are going to get seeds with strong genotypes and seeds that will germinate successfully into strong phenotypes!

Our respect for Dinafem is well earned, because we researched them extensively before we bought their seeds. Here's what one of our sponsors has to say about Dinafem:

In 2005, after accumulating years of experience growing cannabis in all of its varieties, Dinafem Seeds decided to cultivate their own strains.

Interestingly, Dinafem Seeds are the leading pioneers in cannabis seed preservation. They are internationally recognised for their part in revolutionising seeds storage. When they first opened as a seed bank, Dinafem Seeds were finding that many of the seeds that they were sending or receiving were damaged due to the sub-standard packaging. Plastic containers were not protecting the seeds from humidity and light, while paper envelopes were simply not stable enough to protect the valuable contents.

Dinafem Seeds now use packaging that prevents seeds being irreversibly damaged. The seeds are first placed in a clear, plastic vial, similar to ones used in a standard laboratory. This vial is then placed inside a strong metal container ensuring absolute safety when products are being shipped across the world.

By the end of the 21st century, Dinafem Seeds was not only recognised for their superior preservation techniques, but also for the high quality of their feminised strains. Their Moby Dick CBD is immensely popular thanks to its fantastic medicinal properties and long-lasting cerebral effect. While their fantastic Blue Kush strain is a customer favourite for its potency and its intense flavour and aroma.

Just know that when dealing with The Vault and Dinafem Seeds, you are getting very high quality genetics from leading pioneers in cannabis seed preservation:


 
Guessed that was the case! Just wanted to be 100% sure, and ask if anyone else had the same question.

I got a few seeds that just have "said hello" and the first pair of real leaves are showing on almost all of them planted in coco. Would you suggest that any nutrients should be added during the first days of watering? The coco was not soaked in any nutrients, only water and nematodes (due to a battle with Sciaridae).


Again, thanks for your excellent journal. I've saved a few of your guides onto my harddrive even, just to make sure I don't forget them or they get lost in all the goodies you post. And thanks for dropping by my journal, I've answered the questions you had last time and also posted new images of Hera's purple stem and top. Feel free to check it out. I'm also writing a summary of audiobooks on the subject of cannabis to post during the evening, wanted to share the ones I've found with the lovely community.

I wish you a great day!!!

Again, excellent guide @DrCannaCanadian . I was just thinking today, that one of the few few things not mentioned in this guide is when to water the seedling during the lights on/of schedule. That might be a good thing to mention if you do update the guide or to add if you write a similar guide for coco.
 
Again, excellent guide @DrCannaCanadian . I was just thinking today, that one of the few few things not mentioned in this guide is when to water the seedling during the lights on/of schedule. That might be a good thing to mention if you do update the guide or to add if you write a similar guide for coco.

Good point! I like to water 1 hour after lights-on and foliar 1 hour after lights-off.
 
Questions & Answers

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By DrCannaCanadian



Are there any benefits to planting 2 seeds in one pot? Besides conserving space?


Great question!

Plants are genetically programmed to fight for dominance and to compete for resources - such as water, nutrients and especially light.

So, when two plants have their leaves close together, they are naturally triggered to grow taller more rapidly. This results in a weaker primary stem and a less bushier plant.

This is unhealthy for the plant, because a weak stem will be more susceptible to pathogens and pests. The weaker thinner stem also means that the plant will not be able to support larger buds.

Also, because the plant is forced to grow upwards, it will have fewer side branches and smaller fan leaves. Fan leaves are extremely important - they provide the avenue for photosynthesis and temp/heat/air regulation through their stomata.

The same thing happens in the medium. The roots are forced to compete for nutrients and water and they get all tangled up. Ultimately one plant will dominate, and the end result is the same - two unhappy stressed out plants with unnecessary stunted growth, lower yield & lower quality.

This ties in with our "Maximum Yield" paradigm.

Indoors, we can easily control how our plants grow - we want them tall and wide - we want to use as much of the horizontal and vertical space in our tents and grow rooms - while simultaneously minimizing unnecessary unhealthy stressors on them.

This is why watching our plants grow daily and monitoring their progress is very important.

We want to water properly and up-pot properly to encourage even growth of the roots laterally and vertically.
We want to have the lights at the proper height to control the LUX (actually PPFD) and therefore the internode spacing.
We want good air circulation to encourage stem strength and air exchange in the stomata.
We want to use LST to expose growth nodes and buds to light and air as soon as possible.
We want to use HST to top the plant properly to minimize apical dominance and to encourage it to bush out.
We want to use HST to defoliate the bottom 1/3 of the plant one week before the flowering phase to drive energy and hormones up to the top 2/3 of the plant.
We want our lights to be able to penetrate the top 2/3 of the plant without burning the tops with light intensity or heat so we get dense buds.

In a nutshell, for Maximum Yield - quantity and quality - we want to give our plants enough room to grow without unwanted stressful competition - therefore one plant in one pot works best.

Lots of evenly distributed roots => Thick strong primary stem => Thick side branches => Tall & wide plant => Big fan leaves => Big dense buds

And all that is possible by controlling the environment variables and having the correct amount of healthy stressors influencing our plant's growth.
 
Great question!

Simple answer: Nope!

Fun answer:

Plants are genetically programmed to fight for dominance and to compete for resources - like water, nutrients and especially light.

So when two plants have their leaves close together, they are naturally triggered to grow taller more rapidly. This results in weaker stems and a less bushier plant.

This is a bad thing, because a weak stem will be more susceptible to pathogens and pests. The weaker thinner stem also means that the plant will not be able to support larger buds.

Also, because the plant is forced to grow upwards, it will have fewer side branches and smaller fan leaves. Fan leaves are extremely important - they provide the avenue for photosynthesis and temp/heat/air regulation through their stomata.

The same thing happens in the medium. The roots are forced to compete for nutrients and water and they get all tangled up. Ultimately one plant will dominate, but the end result is the same - two unhappy plants with unnecessarily stunted growth, lower yield & lower quality.

This kind of ties in with my "Maximum Yield" paradigm.

Indoors, we can easily control how our plants grow - and we want them tall and wide - we want to use as much of the horizontal and vertical space in our tents and grow rooms - while simultaneously minimizing unnecessary unhealthy stress on them.

This is why watching our plants grow daily and monitoring their progress is very important.

We want to water properly and up-pot properly to encourage even growth of the roots laterally and vertically.

We want to have the lights at the proper height to control the LUX (actually PPFD) and therefore the internode spacing.

We want air flow to encourage stem strength and air exchange.

We want to use LST to expose growth nodes and buds to light and air as soon as possible.

We want to top the plant properly to encourage it to bush out and minimize apical dominance and growth limiting auxins.

We want to defoliate the bottom 1/3 of the plant one week before flower to drive energy and hormones up to the top 2/3 of the plant.

We need our lights to be able to penetrate the top 2/3 of the plant without burning the tops with light intensity or heat.

And the list of healthy needs goes on and on.

In a nutshell though, for Maximum Yield - not just quantity, but for also for quality - we want to give our plants enough room to grow without unwanted competition - therefore one plant to one pot works best.

Lots of evenly distributed roots => Thick strong primary stem => Thick side branches => Tall & Wide plant => Big fan leaves => Big dense buds

And all that is possible from controlling the environment and having just the right amount of healthy stresses.

Great info! So why the 2 in one pot? Are you trying to grow them taller?
 
Great info! So why the 2 in one pot? Are you trying to grow them taller?

I was growing 2 in one pot just for fun.

@ProfessorFlora is growing 10 in one pot just for fun.

@Preston9mm is growing 2 in one pot to conserve space and to showcase more awesome strains!
 
heya friend,, cheers to ya,,

just wanted to post appreciation again, for the info

and to mention,, that after five years of germinating seeds one way,, i tried the method i read in your posts,, about how placing said seed in a cup of water,, on top of the water, like always,, and then leaving it there , on top of the water to open and produce the tap root

it worked quite well, first attempt,, two seeds

cheers agin friend,,
 
heya friend,, cheers to ya,,

just wanted to post appreciation again, for the info

and to mention,, that after five years of germinating seeds one way,, i tried the method i read in your posts,, about how placing said seed in a cup of water,, on top of the water, like always,, and then leaving it there , on top of the water to open and produce the tap root

it worked quite well, first attempt,, two seeds

cheers agin friend,,

Well done!

Just remember, putting a seed into a glass of spring water helps you do a preliminary 'quality' test.

That is, a healthy seed will be porous and readily absorb water. It could sink naturally within a few hours, or if you give it a poke - that's a quick indication of a high quality seed.

However, please note, if it does sink - don't let it sit at the bottom of the glass for more than 12 hours. A submerged seed is at risk of drowning because it needs oxygen to survive.

Make sure you head over to @George from The Vault 's links below for your chance to win seeds!

Cheers!
 
Dagobah Frost Forest
Update


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Vegetation - Day 27

Hello 420!

A bit of disappointing news today! We had to put :rip: Chewbacca and :rip:Han Solo down - and I'll write that up in a bit because there is an important lesson to be learned from this!

We are continuing to monitor the coco plants being fed - and in my opinion, they are a bit too light green so I upped the feed to about 75% full veg strength. If the pots feel light tonight, then I will water them.

It's okay to water coco every day or every other day - especially if we are concerned about nutrient strength.

It's always better to let the plant say it's thirsty, than to overfeed it - especially in flower!

Do I ever love those Seedsman Peyote WiFis! They really fill out nicely when you top them properly at the 7th node!

And Emperor Sidius reminds me so much of Preston's Dreamberry - the shape is so conical!

I am continuing to let the 10 gallon (40 litre) pot of soil dry out, and Rey seems to have tapped bottom and is now beginning to grow more vertically. As soon as she gets another node or two, she'll begin to bush out.

Rey is getting a foliar feed of 50% nutrient strength every day - and she's soaking it all up.

A word of caution, foliar feeding is very efficient - so be very careful not to overdo it, or you will seriously hurt your plants! Foliar the tops and bottoms of the leaves just to point of run off - then stop! The feed is absorbed almost instantly by the stomata and transported very quickly to all parts of the plant.

Note To Self: Remember to do the calculations on when to flip to 12-12.

Overall, I am very pleased with the garden, and the plants have ample room to develop properly!

Alright, here they are mourning and celebrating the loss of Chewbacca and Han Solo - Damn you Dark Side:






 
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