Does this plant have some kind of nutrient deficiency? Yellowing first true leaves

what is the plan for flip or are these autos?

These are photoperiod plants. Originally, I was going to flip a week from now.

Because I have just transplanted the supersoil plant and will transplant the soilless plant two days from now (when a new airpot arrives), I think I will only flip in something like 10-15 days from now.

Now, one thing I am thinking about right now is pruning. Not sure how to do it (how much to do it).
 
Your supersoil plant probably has a much higher brix level, getting closer to maxing out the plant's potential.
Sorry, I didn't get what you are referring to.

The supersoil plant seems to be developing less rapidly, and has shown a few signs of stress (browning, lime color), but has a more pronounced smell.

What is it from my post that led you to comment that in fact the supersoil plant is closer to maxing out the plant's potential?
 
Sorry, I didn't get what you are referring to.

The supersoil plant seems to be developing less rapidly, and has shown a few signs of stress (browning, lime color), but has a more pronounced smell.

What is it from my post that led you to comment that in fact the supersoil plant is closer to maxing out the plant's potential?
The smell is a tell that it's developing more of the terpines and flavonoids than the other plant. Should be more immune to bugs as well.
 
The smell is a tell that it's developing more of the terpines and flavonoids than the other plant. Should be more immune to bugs as well.
aha, yeah, I thought something along those lines when I first noticed. I have read and watched multiple media sources on the topic of "soilless vs supersoil" in terms of final product quality. I am super curious to see the difference.

The soilless is clearly growing way faster and the leaves are perfectly dark green, whereas the supersoil is slower and has way more diversity in terms of what each leaf looks like.

By the way turns out I do have enough compost for another transplant.

So, in the end all three plants will be in 13.5 gallon pots for the final run.
 
Now, one thing I am thinking about right now is pruning. Not sure how to do it (how much to do it).


don't take any more than 10%. if you defol do it now and a minor one 2wks after flip.
 
Ok, so I am really just reluctant to do defoliation, specifically of the soilless plant, because I don't know how to do it.

Over time I have removed various leaves from the bottom of the supersoil plants because they were quite yellow and brown. Those plants look like little trees right now, though more leaves could probably be removed.

The soilless plant has really thick healthy branches. Am I to simply remove all leaves on lower branches?

Do I even remove the really big leaves which seem to be like very useful solar panels for the plant? Or just the small leaves?

Do I leave the leaves that are at the tip of the branches, ie the ones that are already on the outside of the top canopy and could potentially reach the canopy? I think not right?

Here are some pics
branches.png
branches 2.png
 
the lower third of the plant generally doesn't produce anything of value, so that often gets cleared out in what is called lollipopping. then about 10% of the rest is taken to unshroud the sites where buds will develop.

if you are unsure it's best just to leave it and study what others have done.

i'm not afraid of defol and actively use it in my grows. it's a massive labour saving practice once you figure it out. makes life much nicer at chop and trim.
 
I was told to remove anything less than the diameter of a pencil. That has seemed like a good guideline so far, and those wispy lil branches really don't produce anything anyway. I'm not big on defoliating, but when I do it, it's usually to allow better air circulation, so I typically target any that are actively pointed towards the middle of the plant .. they can't get much if any light anyway and all they do is clog up the air space.
 
I was told to remove anything less than the diameter of a pencil. That has seemed like a good guideline so far, and those wispy lil branches really don't produce anything anyway. I'm not big on defoliating, but when I do it, it's usually to allow better air circulation, so I typically target any that are actively pointed towards the middle of the plant .. they can't get much if any light anyway and all they do is clog up the air space.


yes it's good point ... i should have added the idea is to clear out the interior for light penetration.
 
Alright guys, It's day 58 and I flipped my two indoor plants to the 12/12 lighting.

I didn't do anything other than that.

I would appreciate any input on anything I should pay special attention to, or anything I should do different from what I have been doing so far.

One thing I just thought about is that I will add three more of the products from the Remo Nutrients lineup I am using, as per their feeding chart.

1733251018042.png


No idea what "pre-flower" means.

Here are pics of the plants

In front is the supersoil plant and in the back is the soilless one.

Plants.png


The soilless plant is way more developed. More volume, more leaves. The supersoil plant has a more pronounced smell, and is lighter green.

Side.png


I transplanted the supersoil plant from 24L to 51L ten days ago and it seems to have enjoyed the change: it was turning lime green all over before and had seemingly stopped growing very much. It looks much better now.

The soilless has a lot of leaves at the bottom that aren't going to get much light. This is the plant on the right in the photo above. Should I clip them?

I transplanted the soilless plant as well from 17L to 51L seven days ago.

Neither plant seems to have felt the transplant in any negative way. It was only positive.

From what I read, these plants will double in size? Jesus, the soilless one will be huge.

One more thing: I have a UV light from Migro. Any tips on how to use it and when?

I am using a 250W LED from Migro.

I have a 600W LED from Apache Tech. I won't use it this time (because it is loud and it blows out hot air; it is a frikin monster of a light) but would it make a huge difference for these two plants? (Now that I have written out the question the answer seems like an obvious YES ABSOLUTELY)
 
Pre-flower is that first couple weeks under 12/12 when the plant is transitioning from veg to flower.

Regarding the lights, it does seem obvious but I would ask some questions about it personally. If it is getting that hot how much of the 600 watts is being produced as heat?
If the heat is problematic for you (some people need that heat for various reasons), then the 250w is fine.
 
it's gonna depend on the quality of the rigs. 600W > 250w all day long if everything else is equal. the 600w should blow that 250w out of the water as far as production and potency goes.

i jump from a 200w veg light to 600 or 650w in flower.
 
Pre-flower is that first couple weeks under 12/12 when the plant is transitioning from veg to flower.
I had learned it as the time after a female plant became old enough to go into flower under the right length of dark. In meantime, even if the lights were still in a vegetative length, often within about two or three weeks, the plant would be starting to develop just one single stigma/pistil at each new node. The plant would do this even when the lights were still on a 16 or more hours of an "on" schedule. No need to go into a 12/12 light schedule.

When my plants started the alternating node growth sure enough many of them would start to show that stigma/pistil. It was more noticeable on the Indica dominant strains than on the Sativa. I have kept plants growing under 18 hours lights on and 6 hours light off for a year or more and they happily are growing that stigma/pistil.

If I took cuttings off of the plant they would not show the stigma/pistil on new growth until there was a decent sized root development.
 
I had learned it as the time after a female plant became old enough to go into flower under the right length of dark. In meantime, even if the lights were still in a vegetative length, often within about two or three weeks, the plant would be starting to develop just one single stigma/pistil at each new node. The plant would do this even when the lights were still on a 16 or more hours of an "on" schedule. No need to go into a 12/12 light schedule.

When my plants started the alternating node growth sure enough many of them would start to show that stigma/pistil. It was more noticeable on the Indica dominant strains than on the Sativa. I have kept plants growing under 18 hours lights on and 6 hours light off for a year or more and they happily are growing that stigma/pistil.

If I took cuttings off of the plant they would not show the stigma/pistil on new growth until there was a decent sized root development.
I guess you can think of it that way, but that state can persist for months, which is why I went with the assumption that their nute schedule was referring to that first couple weeks when the plant isn't quite fully flowering yet. It has that (pre-flower) listed as a two week period, vs the perpetual "I'm ready when you are" signal of single pistils and alternating nodes.
 
Pre-flower is that first couple weeks under 12/12 when the plant is transitioning from veg to flower.

Regarding the lights, it does seem obvious but I would ask some questions about it personally. If it is getting that hot how much of the 600 watts is being produced as heat?
If the heat is problematic for you (some people need that heat for various reasons), then the 250w is fine.

It's not that the light generates an inordinate amount of heat.

It's just that because it is so powerful, it has a cooling system that uses various fans. The fans blow out warm air. Over time, in a tent like mine, this air raises the temperature a few degrees.

Truth be told, this monster light isn't suited for a tent. It is intended for a commercial grow.

As for the intensity of the lights, I can tell you, they are insane. They burned up some early veg plants being about 1.7m above the plants in my first ever grow attempt.

The fans are also loud, so I would need to set up a dedicated space away from where I usually am at home. This is a project for later in 2025.
 
It's not that the light generates an inordinate amount of heat.

It's just that because it is so powerful, it has a cooling system that uses various fans. The fans blow out warm air. Over time, in a tent like mine, this air raises the temperature a few degrees.

Truth be told, this monster light isn't suited for a tent. It is intended for a commercial grow.

As for the intensity of the lights, I can tell you, they are insane. They burned up some early veg plants being about 1.7m above the plants in my first ever grow attempt.

The fans are also loud, so I would need to set up a dedicated space away from where I usually am at home. This is a project for later in 2025.


if it's one of their boxlights it's an old tech known to be hot and loud as a drunk college girl. it's a design requiring fans that most mfgrs have moved away from.
apache does have bar lights, which are a newer tech and run much cooler, quiet, and are generally fanless.

if you are looking for a newer light have a look at the sponsors and make use of the board discounts. there's a few guys here that can tell you their experiences with different rigs.
 
Where I live it is very rainy. The humidity outside and inside the grow tent is at above 80% constantly.

I am in week 5 of flowering.

I bought a little dehumidifier but when I turned it on I realized that not only is it not making a difference but it seems to me this makes total sense.

The intake and exhaust fans are exchanging the air in the tent (I don't know the exact rates at which these occur currently, but I can probably check with AC Infinity) so the humidity will always be the humidity of the outside air.

So now I am wondering. When people do use dehumidifiers, is it only to combat humidity that is NOT due to the outside environment?

It also seems that humidifying air is easier than dehumidifying.

From my experience, a small humidifier can totally saturate the air inside a tent very quickly. I remember I turned off my fans for some quick maintenance but forgot the humidifier on once and when I opened the tent it looked like a wet sauna inside, totally foggy.

Therefore, even with intake of outside air and exhausting of inside air, the humidifier can keep inside humidity higher than outside humidity.

I guess I expected the ability of dehumidification to be just as strong.
 
That's why people put the dehumidifier outside the tent in what's called a "lung room." By lowering the humidity in the room, your tent environment will enjoy that benefit.
The tent is in a small room that is about 4m by 2.5m.

This room has a huge opening on one wall that is about 2.5m with a sliding door that allows the room to be closed off from the external environment.

The room also has an air conditioner.

So, I could just turn on the air conditioner.

Because, suppose I close off the small room and dehumidify it.

The tent would intake air from the room and exhaust it out of the room (I suppose).

In other words, I would be depleting the air in the small room without replenishing it (because if I did it would just turn into the tent setup again).

How long would this air last before it would have to be replenished again? Probably not long.

So... again, this "lung room" you speak of, it seems like it would have to be huge, in particular if someone lives in a rainy area.

Suppose someone grows in Portland. How would they do it?
 
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