Does neem oil makes buds taste bad?

I had a pretty serious bug issue one time and used Neem oil. It was suggested to me not to do this in the last weeks of flower, it grows out in 2-3 weeks I noticed nothing and my bug problem was gone. Are you watering too much, or is your soil wet constantly? It should be completely dry before you feed.
 
I wonder if they are attracted to the smell of Molasses like Grasshoppers, Crickets, Gnats, etc. Put some on a plate in your grow area to see if you catch some. Warm Beer works too.... if you want to give up your beer.... lol. Can't hurt to try it. Have you tried yellow sticky traps? Just a suggestion.
Passionfruit hoppers are more like a swarm of insects and even if they do like molasses and beer there will be a swarm of hoppers on the molasses and beer and a swarm of hoppers on my cannabis plants.

The hoppers would over whelm the sticky traps inside one day. Their numbers are unlimited.
 
I had a pretty serious bug issue one time and used Neem oil. It was suggested to me not to do this in the last weeks of flower, it grows out in 2-3 weeks I noticed nothing and my bug problem was gone. Are you watering too much, or is your soil wet constantly? It should be completely dry before you feed.
I'm growing outdoors and my watering schedule is whenever it rains.

Why does it have to be completely dry before feeding?
 
I'm growing outdoors and my watering schedule is whenever it rains.

Why does it have to be completely dry before feeding?
Cannabis is a weed and, as such, benefits from a wet/dry cycle. During the dry part of the cycle it forms more roots in its search for water. When it gets to the flowering stage, the more roots, the more water and nutrients you can give it which leads to a bigger harvest.

And that's why you let it dry between waterings (not necessarily feedings unless you feed with each watering).
 
@Phillybonker I am growing outdoors in the tropics, in greenhouses. I haven't seen those bugs, but what I use is neem oil mixed with Bronner's peppermint soap, 2 tbs neem, 1 tbs soap, per gal water. I don't spray buds.

Pure orange oil - limonene - is a potent insecticide. I use food grade limonene. This can be added to your neem mixture, or alone with the soap. Be careful, too much limonene will burn leaves. I have found that ~20 drops is OK, in 1 gal.
 
I am growing outdoors in the tropics, in greenhouses. I haven't seen those bugs, ...
The insects @Phillybonker is talking about are a member of the leafhopper family. This specie were found no where else but Australia. Recently, in the late 1800s they began to be found in New Zealand. Now they are infesting gardens and farms there.

I had looked them up earlier after finding out the name from Phillybonker. It seems that they are another example of an invasive specie that gets out of control shortly after it arrives in a new area where it has few predators.
 
And that's why you let it dry between waterings (not necessarily feedings unless you feed with each watering).
He has a 'guerilla' style grow going on in an area near his house. He goes once a week or so to check the plants, do any fertilizing, trimming, and hauling water from a nearby stream, etc. He has to take what he finds, as far as how wet the soil is, when he gets to the plants.
 
He has a 'guerilla' style grow going on in an area near his house. He goes once a week or so to check the plants, do any fertilizing, trimming, and hauling water from a nearby stream, etc. He has to take what he finds, as far as how wet the soil is, when he gets to the plants.
Ok. I was just answering the 'why' question. Sounds like he has less control than those of us with home gardens.
 
I spray mine on a nearly weekly basis. And also spray some safers on occasion. A spray program is a must in my opinion
Neem oil tastes like ass bro just saying from experience. Used once tossed once. I even tried making my own neem tea from Neem cake which works great but still left a nasty taste even after bud washing.

The active ingredient in Neem for insect pests is Azadirachtin. There are organic versions of this active ingredient without the nasty ass taste.

Here's a read on it and why I add neem cake to my soil mix and not as a foliar.

Profiles of Organic Pesticides


Azadirachtin is systemic so being taken up by roots the nasty taste is broken down but active ingredient in the plant.
I add a few tbs to my soil at up pot into flower. Works great.
 
The insects @Phillybonker is talking about are a member of the leafhopper family. This specie were found no where else but Australia. Recently, in the late 1800s they began to be found in New Zealand. Now they are infesting gardens and farms there.

I had looked them up earlier after finding out the name from Phillybonker. It seems that they are another example of an invasive specie that gets out of control shortly after it arrives in a new area where it has few predators.
We've got a few pests from Australia here, their wallabies broke two of my plants last season, their possums killed one of my plants this season and their hoppers are a nightmare.
 
Neem oil tastes like ass bro just saying from experience. Used once tossed once. I even tried making my own neem tea from Neem cake which works great but still left a nasty taste even after bud washing.

The active ingredient in Neem for insect pests is Azadirachtin. There are organic versions of this active ingredient without the nasty ass taste.

Here's a read on it and why I add neem cake to my soil mix and not as a foliar.

Profiles of Organic Pesticides


Azadirachtin is systemic so being taken up by roots the nasty taste is broken down but active ingredient in the plant.
I add a few tbs to my soil at up pot into flower. Works great.
Yeah I'm going to try neem seed meal and karanja seed meal next season. Apparently the karanja enhances the neem or makes it more effective somehow, so I read.
 
I keep neem oil on the shelf for infestation in veg but try not to use it. I have diatatamatious earth dusted on the floor for crawlers. I've used rosemary oil soap to kill spider mites late flower. Killed the mites and actually made the buds taste good.spray upwards to get the underside of leaves and buds with lots of air flow.
Do you make your rosemary oil soap or purchase it? I have been spraying neem oil for three weeks trying to eradicate these pesky spider mites unsuccessfully. I’m in week four of flowering.
 
I have been spraying neem oil for three weeks trying to eradicate these pesky spider mites unsuccessfully. I’m in week four of flowering.
Before I even had mites on my plants I read just about everything I could find on what to do about them on Marijuana plants.

Spray every day for 3 days. Spray the tops of the leaves, spray the bottoms of the leaves, spray the stem. The next day do it again, and the 3 day do it again. Each time you spray it the Neem Oil solutions should be dripping off the plant just like it was outside and an all day rain just ended.

Then skip a day or two, no more, and do it again for three days. After that you can see if it broke the cycle. If so, then the spraying can be once a week. And, every week, not just one time.

The above is for growing inside. If growing outside then it is different.
 
I'm growing outdoors and my watering schedule is whenever it rains.

Why does it have to be completely dry before feeding?
Because if the soil is super wet it will dilute the neem oil and you will not gar as good of an effect. Will it work wet? Probably.
 
Pyrethrins are insecticidal, but until now I didn't know they are also fungicidal.

I personally wouldn't use pyrethrins or mineral oil.

During flower, I would also not use neem. Instead, peroxide solution – 6 fl oz (12 tbsp) 3% hydrogen peroxide in 1/2 gal of pure water, in the pump sprayer. This can be used daily, or every other day, as needed. Spray the whole plant including the buds. If I suspect bud rot may be developing, I'll give all the buds a good spray-down.

If you've got a mold problem that sets in during drying, that's a different story. At that point, I think you've basically lost the harvest, unless you carefully inspect all the buds and collect the ones that have no mold, and move them to a drying situation where they can't get moldy.
 
Not so good to be smoking anything that might have had pyrethrum in it, apparently. See Pyrethrins: A challenging cannabis contaminant

There are multiple chemical variations that are not interchangeable. Some are deemed safe, some are toxic or somewhere in-between. A glass of water can save you from dehydration but the same glass of water used wrong can kill you.

Pyrethrum is a natural extract from daisy flower. Pyrethrin, is the active chemical in that oil. A neurotoxin to insects, fish and amphibians only. UV and open air fully biodegrades it within 48 hours. Used on food labeled "organic pesticide free grown". Classified safe if used until days before harvest. It may have minor effect on smell or flavor but nontoxic to humans when used correctly. I always submerge and soak in water to rinse the buds at harvest when any additive was used.

Pyrethroids and permethrin are synthetic versions. These do not biodegrade as readily or completely. Not considered safe for human food grade consumption. These are often added to pyrethrin to increase potency and time between applications. Check the ingredients or if it claims to work for more than 24 hours it may not be safe.
 
There are multiple chemical variations that are not interchangeable. Some are deemed safe, some are toxic or somewhere in-between. A glass of water can save you from dehydration but the same glass of water used wrong can kill you.

Pyrethrum is a natural extract from daisy flower. Pyrethrin, is the active chemical in that oil. A neurotoxin to insects, fish and amphibians only. UV and open air fully biodegrades it within 48 hours. Used on food labeled "organic pesticide free grown". Classified safe if used until days before harvest. It may have minor effect on smell or flavor but nontoxic to humans when used correctly. I always submerge and soak in water to rinse the buds at harvest when any additive was used.

Pyrethroids and permethrin are synthetic versions. These do not biodegrade as readily or completely. Not considered safe for human food grade consumption. These are often added to pyrethrin to increase potency and time between applications. Check the ingredients or if it claims to work for more than 24 hours it may not be safe.
I'd rather use food grade orange oil, also a potent insecticide. Pure orange oil is limonene, a beneficial cannabis terpene. Orange oil is easy to obtain and inexpensive. Best to order in a glass bottle, since it degrades plastics. Also a great solvent for cleaning fingers and scissors.
 
Pyrethrins are insecticidal, but until now I didn't know they are also fungicidal.

I personally wouldn't use pyrethrins or mineral oil.

During flower, I would also not use neem. Instead, peroxide solution – 6 fl oz (12 tbsp) 3% hydrogen peroxide in 1/2 gal of pure water, in the pump sprayer. This can be used daily, or every other day, as needed. Spray the whole plant including the buds. If I suspect bud rot may be developing, I'll give all the buds a good spray-down.

If you've got a mold problem that sets in during drying, that's a different story. At that point, I think you've basically lost the harvest, unless you carefully inspect all the buds and collect the ones that have no mold, and move them to a drying situation where they can't get moldy.
I've been through the fungus gnat problem several times now, impossible to avoid in our locale. Have tried most things, but everything can interact with everything else (apart from the fungus gnats) .... in the case of H202 specifically, it will also kill everything else & including the benefical orgnisims in the soil; and also the beficical nematodes which eat the fungus gnat lavae.
 
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