Does anyone have any ideas?

think i'm going with pk boost considering being in flower
 
13goody13 said:
This is kind of what potassium overdose looks like on my plants, when I give them too many additives on top of the MC. This is more of a unique situation with the mixed soils and everything, but one of the rare instances where flushing sounds like it actually might be the right call.
Click to expand...


yeah agree. trying to figger if excess or deficient.
 
ok... several thoughts after reading over this thread...

First, soil pH. It is at 6.8 pH for a reason, but you did no harm. You watered correctly at 6.3 pH and then the drift of your soil will take your nutes on a ride through the entire pH range... so accidentally, you did the right thing.

So that isn't it... but it is obvious that your nutes are not cutting it. The same nutes all the way through??? Here is what it looks like when you supply everything but the macronutrients needed during bloom, namely potassium and phosphorus. It looks like the plant is having problems getting calcium too, even though you are giving some extra. These plants are dying prematurely and trying desperately to finish out the buds despite everything before they do.

Basically, you have a cascade of several severe deficiencies going here, and getting worse by the day. Blame your nutes and make some plans to start some new plants soon, plants that you will feed correctly from the moment they hit bloom and I am certain that things will go better.
 
thanks em. all i could suss fer sure was cal p and k were all wrong.
 
Emilya said:
ok... several thoughts after reading over this thread...

First, soil pH. It is at 6.8 pH for a reason, but you did no harm. You watered correctly at 6.3 pH and then the drift of your soil will take your nutes on a ride through the entire pH range... so accidentally, you did the right thing.

So that isn't it... but it is obvious that your nutes are not cutting it. The same nutes all the way through??? Here is what it looks like when you supply everything but the macronutrients needed during bloom, namely potassium and phosphorus. It looks like the plant is having problems getting calcium too, even though you are giving some extra. These plants are dying prematurely and trying desperately to finish out the buds despite everything before they do.

Basically, you have a cascade of several severe deficiencies going here, and getting worse by the day. Blame your nutes and make some plans to start some new plants soon, plants that you will feed correctly from the moment they hit bloom and I am certain that things will go better.
Click to expand...
When this started the soil ph was at 7.2 so I corrected that. And also gave them extra phosphorus and cal-mag. I’m also wondering about maybe too much additives because the nutes I’ve been using are 1 part base and 4 part additives!
I also have “advanced nutrients”, as well which contain about 15 different bottles! Do you think it would be a good idea to give them that, keeping in mind to give them a bit extra phosphorus and potassium? Or should I just flush and see if they can last until harvest?
 
Flushing might not be a bad idea, not knowing how much P you added and that might be sitting in the soil locking out other things, but these plants really need K right now. If you have AN nutes, that might not be a bad idea too... at least give them a new flavor to chew on and a well designed feeding chart.... it can't hurt.

It is all the rage lately to "adjust and correct" the pH of our soils based on wild speculation from the bro-science crowd on the internet. I strongly doubt whether you "corrected" the soil, since to do so you would have had to eliminate by reaction or removal a whole lot of dolomite lime and other buffers that are pre-mixed into your soil. You only watered at 6.3, which is the correct place to adjust your incoming pH in soil. This didn't adjust anything... it simply was watering correctly.

It is strongly advised to know what you are doing before just adding extra things, like phosphorus and calmag. By anticipating a problem that you may or may not have had, you have created another larger problem... a possible lockout. At this moment no one here is sure whether your problem is lockout, buildup or lack of proper nutes. To avoid this in the future, don't just willy nilly add things that sound good... the repercussions later down the line can be enormous. Save the use of extra calmag for when you see signs that you need it... but before then, trust your nutes to supply what is needed. At least then, when/if problems do develop, you have a known baseline of nutes to start your analysis of the problem with.
 
Emilya said:
Flushing might not be a bad idea, not knowing how much P you added and that might be sitting in the soil locking out other things, but these plants really need K right now. If you have AN nutes, that might not be a bad idea too... at least give them a new flavor to chew on and a well designed feeding chart.... it can't hurt.

It is all the rage lately to "adjust and correct" the pH of our soils based on wild speculation from the bro-science crowd on the internet. I strongly doubt whether you "corrected" the soil, since to do so you would have had to eliminate by reaction or removal a whole lot of dolomite lime and other buffers that are pre-mixed into your soil. You only watered at 6.3, which is the correct place to adjust your incoming pH in soil. This didn't adjust anything... it simply was watering correctly.

It is strongly advised to know what you are doing before just adding extra things, like phosphorus and calmag. By anticipating a problem that you may or may not have had, you have created another larger problem... a possible lockout. At this moment no one here is sure whether your problem is lockout, buildup or lack of proper nutes. To avoid this in the future, don't just willy nilly add things that sound good... the repercussions later down the line can be enormous. Save the use of extra calmag for when you see signs that you need it... but before then, trust your nutes to supply what is needed. At least then, when/if problems do develop, you have a known baseline of nutes to start your analysis of the problem with.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks so much Emilya.
This is my 3rd time growing and 2nd for autos. I really do appreciate all your help. One more thing!..., when I flush, how much runoff should there be and should I feed right after this flush or wait a few days?
 
StacyDu said:
Ok thanks so much Emilya.
This is my 3rd time growing and 2nd for autos. I really do appreciate all your help. One more thing!..., when I flush, how much runoff should there be and should I feed right after this flush or wait a few days?
Click to expand...
Your question shows me that you do not understand the term FLUSH as I am using it. This centuries old term has been bastardized in the last 5 years or so via the internet with "experts" on YouTube promoting the stupid practice of starving their plants for a week or two at the very end by giving them only water, and calling that a flush. It is not called a flush when you are just giving water only on a watering session. A flush is a full out intentional flushing of all the debris and buildups in your soil, and without flushing agents to make it more effective, 3x the container size in fresh water is the best way to do it. So runoff is whatever the soil can't hold, or most all of the water you flush through there. In a 5 gallon container we are talking about 15 gallons of water... so you can imagine the large amount of runoff.
Usually I time a flush for a regular watering day, because I follow a feed/water/feed/water schedule all through the grow. If the flush takes the place of a regular watering the plant sees nothing different than normal, and you can continue feeding with your next watering after they dry out.
 
Emilya said:
Your question shows me that you do not understand the term FLUSH as I am using it. This centuries old term has been bastardized in the last 5 years or so via the internet with "experts" on YouTube promoting the stupid practice of starving their plants for a week or two at the very end by giving them only water, and calling that a flush. It is not called a flush when you are just giving water only on a watering session. A flush is a full out intentional flushing of all the debris and buildups in your soil, and without flushing agents to make it more effective, 3x the container size in fresh water is the best way to do it. So runoff is whatever the soil can't hold, or most all of the water you flush through there. In a 5 gallon container we are talking about 15 gallons of water... so you can imagine the large amount of runoff.
Usually I time a flush for a regular watering day, because I follow a feed/water/feed/water schedule all through the grow. If the flush takes the place of a regular watering the plant sees nothing different than normal, and you can continue feeding with your next watering after they dry out.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
Emilya said:
Your question shows me that you do not understand the term FLUSH as I am using it. This centuries old term has been bastardized in the last 5 years or so via the internet with "experts" on YouTube promoting the stupid practice of starving their plants for a week or two at the very end by giving them only water, and calling that a flush. It is not called a flush when you are just giving water only on a watering session. A flush is a full out intentional flushing of all the debris and buildups in your soil, and without flushing agents to make it more effective, 3x the container size in fresh water is the best way to do it. So runoff is whatever the soil can't hold, or most all of the water you flush through there. In a 5 gallon container we are talking about 15 gallons of water... so you can imagine the large amount of runoff.
Usually I time a flush for a regular watering day, because I follow a feed/water/feed/water schedule all through the grow. If the flush takes the place of a regular watering the plant sees nothing different than normal, and you can continue feeding with your next watering after they dry out.
Click to expand...
I do have a flushing agent and will use that. Thanks
 
StacyDu said:
The cfl’s are meant to be for the lower bud sites so they can get more light
Click to expand...
Been there, done that. Figured that it was not worth the effort of setting up the lights or the cost of the electricity to run them. Most of the lower bud sites on my plants just did not gain from the extra CFL light.
 
SmokingWings said:
Been there, done that. Figured that it was not worth the effort of setting up the lights or the cost of the electricity to run them. Most of the lower bud sites on my plants just did not gain from the extra CFL light.
Click to expand...
thats becasue its not strong enough
 
bluter said:
you have conflicting media types in the same bucket. you have a non soil and a super soil. the nutes in the super soil are interfering with the nutes you are feeding and throwing your balance way off.

next run decide if you are going living soil or HP promix. the two are diametrically opposed and work against each other.
Click to expand...
Thanks!, I’ll remember do make sure I don’t do that again. I didn’t know they could be conflicting!
 
just make sure there is enough space so they don't burn
StacyDu said:
I know, next time I’ll go with 1000 w led underneath for 4 plants. I’m just experimenting, trying different things to see what difference they can make.
Click to expand...
 
PK1 said:
just make sure there is enough space so they don't burn
Click to expand...
For sure!, plus heat radiates upwards so it’ll have to be at least 15” away depending on the design and quality of the led, the cfl is about 12-15” away and still burnt a couple of leaves because of the wattage of it, even that one gets pretty hot
 

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