Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Add about half a cup of high calcium limestone to the entire bale of peat moss, along with the DB First Run Amendment. You'll be just fine.
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Got it!
Thanks :thumb:
overlord said:
The Bag of peat moss @Amy Gardner posted was 3.8 cubic feet, but it didn't look compressed. Will that matter?
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Ok - I’ll ring the company that sells it tomorrow and double check about that. Thanks lord, it’s a good thing to notice!

Regarding cooking soil way in advance and having it ‘get better over time...’: how long can one leave cooked soil to sit and have it still be improving, or at least not diminishing? A year? 2years? Or forever?
 
Amy Gardner said:
Got it!
Thanks :thumb:

Ok - I’ll ring the company that sells it tomorrow and double check about that. Thanks lord, it’s a good thing to notice!

Regarding cooking soil way in advance and having it ‘get better over time...’: how long can one leave cooked soil to sit and still be improving, or at least not diminishing. A year? 2years? Or forever?
Click to expand...

Amy the Promix we use comes in a 3.8 cubic foot bale that is compressed. You may need more if it is uncompressed, thats what I was asking Doc.

As far as cooking soil I had cooked mine about 45 days and judging from my 1st journal started using it March 2017.
I just used the last of it roughly a year later. It did not deteriorate at all. In fact it just became more active, so much that the last seeds I tried cracking in it were eaten by the soil.

That only became a concern at the very end, previously I had no problems cracking seeds in 1st run soil.
 
overlord said:
Amy the Promix we use comes in a 3.8 cubic foot bale that is compressed. You may need more if it is uncompressed, thats what I was asking Doc.
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Yes - and thank you. It’s an important point. That labeling does say “expands when opened”. But it doesn’t look fully compressed.

And thanks for the info about long cooking!
 
overlord said:
The Bag of peat moss @Amy Gardner posted was 3.8 cubic feet, but it didn't look compressed. Will that matter?
Click to expand...

Yes, it will matter for sure. It's impossible to say with certainty, but between the amendment and the half cup of limestone, we should be pretty close. If the promix is uncompressed 3.8 cu ft. then I'd go down to 1/3 to 1/4 cup limestone.

It's gonna work.
 
organicgrowr said:
Thanks DarkScotia. Another question I was wondering, this I think depends on how heavy of a feeder the plant is but should you use straight water inbetween drenches? Besides the cat drench. This has probably been answered a bunch but I haven’t found it yet. Thanks
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Yep. It's been answered many times.....there's a nice journal called Dark Scotia apprentices Doc Bud, or something like that. You can see the entire process there.

Also, there are always the directions, both on this forum and on my website: DocBudsbrix.com

In short, yes, we like to do plain water inbetween drenches most of the time. The exceptions are of course the Cat Drench and in late veg we'll often dunk/drench two or three times in a row before using water.
 
Ok
Doc Bud said:
Yes, it will matter for sure. It's impossible to say with certainty, but between the amendment and the half cup of limestone, we should be pretty close. If the promix is uncompressed 3.8 cu ft. then I'd go down to 1/3 to 1/4 cup limestone.

It's gonna work.
Click to expand...
ok so once I find that out it’s all good for the limestone amendment. I have some here already.

This has led to another question though. If it’s indeed not compressed it will be a different final volume from the Promix. So I wonder how that affects the overall blend with the DB ammendments. Because if it’s less final volume won’t that mean I’ll have a stronger mix won’t end up with the full 60gal of soil the mix is supposed to make?

It’s very difficult to work out the quantities of the base mix. Most stuff here is sold by litres ... I think I have it worked out, and then something comes up like this to break my calculations!
 
JustMeds said:
@Doc Bud can you shed some light on the reason for the straight water feedings.
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It's fairly standard plant feeding protocol. It helps keep down salt buildup, for instance.

One of the more interesting things that we don't have to do in this soil is flushing. Even live soils can reach a soil imbalance that requires thorough flushing of the soil with straight water. Then the biota can repopulate in a cleaner soil environment. A reset, so to speak.

So we introduce a nutrient, let it work, rinse with water, then introduce a different nutrient, let it work, rinse with water, etc. We're not "flushing" because we're not looking for a bunch of runoff, but the principle is similar. We're "rinsing".

:Namaste: :bongrip:
 
So on that bale of SPM - I’m pretty sure I’ve confirmed that it is compressed (the peat you see in the image o’lord, is just a picture ;) ) so I’ll likely get it tomorrow. :slide:

Worm castings getting closer.

Hey Doc most castings sources can’t tell me what the NPK is, and one vendor says theirs are 1:blushsmile:1. How flexible is that 1:blushsmile:0 instruction?

:Namaste:
 
Amy Gardner said:
Ok

ok so once I find that out it’s all good for the limestone amendment. I have some here already.

This has led to another question though. If it’s indeed not compressed it will be a different final volume from the Promix. So I wonder how that affects the overall blend with the DB ammendments. Because if it’s less final volume won’t that mean I’ll have a stronger mix won’t end up with the full 60gal of soil the mix is supposed to make?

It’s very difficult to work out the quantities of the base mix. Most stuff here is sold by litres ... I think I have it worked out, and then something comes up like this to break my calculations!
Click to expand...

Yes, if there's less volume of peat, you'll want to use less amendment.....just gotta do the best you can.
 
Graytail said:
It's fairly standard plant feeding protocol. It helps keep down salt buildup, for instance.

One of the more interesting things that we don't have to do in this soil is flushing. Even live soils can reach a soil imbalance that requires thorough flushing of the soil with straight water. Then the biota can repopulate in a cleaner soil environment. A reset, so to speak.

So we introduce a nutrient, let it work, rinse with water, then introduce a different nutrient, let it work, rinse with water, etc. We're not "flushing" because we're not looking for a bunch of runoff, but the principle is similar. We're "rinsing".

:Namaste::bongrip:
Click to expand...
Sweet explanation! I am starting to understand this much more! TY GT!:)
 
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