Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

The dog lol Sorry I'm lkind of lit right now. :) I have to say.. don't knock it till you try it! once you go black you never go back
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Wow. What happened to my journal?

I say we move on from this point and forget the last page of nastiness.

I do not apologize for passionately promoting High Brix growing. It's something new, and it has merit. As a pioneer in the technique, why shouldn't I be passionate it?

On the other hand, I do not want to go into journals focused on Hydro, Supersoil, or Nutrient companies and bomb their journals like what happened on this one.

I do apologize for saying "Leave." That was wrong on my part and I regret saying it.

I am under a lot of stress right now, due to business. Great things are happening, but I am stressed and I lost my temper.

So, let's not escalate this nonsense any longer. The journal remains a High Brix Q and A.

Thanks to all who read here.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Yes doc let's stay focused... smoke a big one of that lemon paki and let's work on having good vibes and growing amazing plants!

Smoked some high brix syntax today and got properly barreled shortly after....mind blowing!
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It's been year's since I've had that experience. I miss the warm water, salt and trades. mmmmmm.

Rolled up a couple "Kir Royales" tonite. Half Champagne, half Cherry Pie in a joint. Wife and I had that and a couple ginger beers in the hot tub fresh after a day of rain. Cold wind, stars and cloulds. Very nice!

But I miss the beaches in Hawaii. Used to like hukilau at night with the moon, clouds and stars...but warm!

FYI to anyone else reading: The kits are on back order for a couple days. I've got a new amendment with a bit more carbon added and some volcanic rock dust in the high brix mix that will ship with all kits from now on.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc,

I know this thread is mainly Q and A for your kit, however I didn't know where else would be appropriate so I figured I would ask here.

Have you formulated a "set process" for testing the brix of cannabis plants? I know all of us here are still kind of pioneering the high brix and cannabis partnership, but I was wondering if there are certain "standards" we should all be doing so our readings are consistent..

Things like...
Do I take old leaves or newer leaves as samples?

Where on the plant is best (top, middle or bottom)?

Is there a certain time of day that testing would be more accurate and true? (since I believe I read sugar levels are higher in the morning and drop off mid day, I think, but may have this reversed)

When taking a leaf sample, how much time should be given between a foliar feeding and a test? (A day, a few hours, a few days?)

When taking a leaf sample, are you including the leaf stem, or just the green leafy material?

When pulverizing the cells of the test material, will smashing up and pulverizing with pliers or a press give similar results of a mortar and pestil? (I think that' what its called.)

I personally have been taking mature leafs from about 5-7 nodes down from a top, the test sample is usually cut within the first 4 hours of the daylight period, and tested right away. On all past samples I have been leaving the stem on, but after seeing stem sap brix from 4-8 brix, but the same plants leafs ranging from 12-23.5 brix, I was wondering should we leave the stems on or remove them for more accurate readings of what we want. My thoughts would be the leaf stem would dillute the brix slightly but maybe not. I also will usually wait at least 24 hours from a foliar spray before testing so that I don't get false readings from the spray itself, but a lot of the sources for grapes and other produce say you can test within hours of a foliar application, so I don't really know what is true.

I am just curious now that you have been focused on high brix for a while now, with many trials and errors and new knowledge, at this point in the game, what your personal standards are when it comes to testing. I just experimented yesterday by taking brix readings of the leaf stem sap vs the crushed leaf material to see if there was similar numbers, a correlation or none of the above and came up with some interesting results. It seemed on 83% of my samples, a higher sap brix indicated a higher total leaf brix, and lower sap brix indicated a lower leaf brix but 1 out of 6 samples did not have this same ratio or correlation. It was interesting anyhow but got me thinking, for us all to benefit from the results, we should all have a standard I would imagine. What are your thoughts.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Well thanks doc i appreciate your wisdom and have respect for your methods,lets all focus on the one thing that has us all here,to grow the best herbs possible.We work hard on are ladies and get offended easily as we put hard work into them and they become a bit like our children.Obviously hb kit users are happy and just standing behind the man with the vision i can appreciate and respect that.Not sure if im welcome,or to ask any questions but i couldnt sleep thinking how this went down.cannabis is my passion my wife has seizures often and this has been her only relief.Ive been jailed twice for growing and refuse to stop doing the only thing that can help me grow enough primo meds for her.Thats what lead me to your threads.well im done with my rant the joints prob burned out by me talking it death...
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Icemud said:
Hey Doc,

I know this thread is mainly Q and A for your kit, however I didn't know where else would be appropriate so I figured I would ask here.

Have you formulated a "set process" for testing the brix of cannabis plants? I know all of us here are still kind of pioneering the high brix and cannabis partnership, but I was wondering if there are certain "standards" we should all be doing so our readings are consistent..

Things like...
Do I take old leaves or newer leaves as samples?

Where on the plant is best (top, middle or bottom)?

Is there a certain time of day that testing would be more accurate and true? (since I believe I read sugar levels are higher in the morning and drop off mid day, I think, but may have this reversed)

When taking a leaf sample, how much time should be given between a foliar feeding and a test? (A day, a few hours, a few days?)

When taking a leaf sample, are you including the leaf stem, or just the green leafy material?

When pulverizing the cells of the test material, will smashing up and pulverizing with pliers or a press give similar results of a mortar and pestil? (I think that' what its called.)

I personally have been taking mature leafs from about 5-7 nodes down from a top, the test sample is usually cut within the first 4 hours of the daylight period, and tested right away. On all past samples I have been leaving the stem on, but after seeing stem sap brix from 4-8 brix, but the same plants leafs ranging from 12-23.5 brix, I was wondering should we leave the stems on or remove them for more accurate readings of what we want. My thoughts would be the leaf stem would dillute the brix slightly but maybe not. I also will usually wait at least 24 hours from a foliar spray before testing so that I don't get false readings from the spray itself, but a lot of the sources for grapes and other produce say you can test within hours of a foliar application, so I don't really know what is true.

I am just curious now that you have been focused on high brix for a while now, with many trials and errors and new knowledge, at this point in the game, what your personal standards are when it comes to testing. I just experimented yesterday by taking brix readings of the leaf stem sap vs the crushed leaf material to see if there was similar numbers, a correlation or none of the above and came up with some interesting results. It seemed on 83% of my samples, a higher sap brix indicated a higher total leaf brix, and lower sap brix indicated a lower leaf brix but 1 out of 6 samples did not have this same ratio or correlation. It was interesting anyhow but got me thinking, for us all to benefit from the results, we should all have a standard I would imagine. What are your thoughts.
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Great question Ice! Also, this journal is open to all questions regarding HIgh Brix....the In the Lab Thread, I keep focused on the kits, so no problem asking that here at all.

The main thing you want to do with sampling is methodical consistency. Do it exactly the same way every time. I think I recorded this in another place, but I'll briefly tell you what I do.

I test when I prune, usually twice in veg and twice in bloom. I take the top of whatever branch I'm pruning, along with the top most fan leaf associated with that top AND the petiole and stem above that fan leaf. I use a press, designed for crushing tissue and testing brix. A mortar and pestle works even better. You've got to crush the cell walls to get a good test.

Take samples at the same time....again, routine and methodical consistency.

Freshly sprayed leaves are going to test higher brix than not. Old, dry leaves are like raisins....higher brix readings, but totally wrong.

So, in short, take tops use stems and petioles down to the first fan leaf below the top. That's not the only way to do it. The important thing is consistency each and every time. The more of us that do it the same way, the closer our readings are.

In my garden, I can usually guess brix by how the plants look.

The real usefullness of testing comes in when comparing a new feeding schedule or additive. A point or two is significant, either up or down.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tokersmokeg said:
Well thanks doc i appreciate your wisdom and have respect for your methods,lets all focus on the one thing that has us all here,to grow the best herbs possible.We work hard on are ladies and get offended easily as we put hard work into them and they become a bit like our children.Obviously hb kit users are happy and just standing behind the man with the vision i can appreciate and respect that.Not sure if im welcome,or to ask any questions but i couldnt sleep thinking how this went down.cannabis is my passion my wife has seizures often and this has been her only relief.Ive been jailed twice for growing and refuse to stop doing the only thing that can help me grow enough primo meds for her.Thats what lead me to your threads.well im done with my rant the joints prob burned out by me talking it death...
Click to expand...

Questions are always welcome. Accusations and assumed ill will....not so much.

There's a reason folks are happy with the kit. It produces world class buds. Most people, even seasoned smokers, immediately proclaim it's the best weed they've ever had.

In fact, people right here on this forum, who are EXCELLENT growers, have visited me and tasted the produce and will tell you exactly what I just said.

It's not me bragging about my growing skills....it's a scientifically designed soil and feeding schedule that creates the product.

So, what's the question? We can try this again!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

doc,

I guess we got so far off topic my original questions got lost in the mix and has already been answered with your post about testing consistencies.So ill stay off that topic now,and move forward with new ones.

You talk about the soil being mineralized.can you further elaborate on this?

I grow in ocean forest with worm castings perlite and lime and use botanicare pro blend nutes.I am getting awesome results time after time.But in my quest to grow the best meds for wifes seizures i know i can do better.So why the promix? promix is considered hydroponics right?I know you said you didnt want the supersoil or different ways being brought up i just thought it may be relevant to my personal questions.I am so curious about this method cause everyone is raving about it,and if it can help her more then my method ill jump on the high brix kit train.In fact if it is available ill buy the kit right now and do a side by side.Im no phd and dont claim to be.the wife thinks i should from all the rave reviews we just wanna know the science behind it we keep hearing about.are there any advantages you can tell us from a medical standpoint?Thanks doc!!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Blazin,

Prob a stupid answer but i bought a cheap temp and humidity jobber at the local home improvement store that can display the high and low temp and humidity.My temps now are running consistenly at 78 but humidity can be as low as 20%.im no phd like i stated i know the temp is good but im not sure about the humidty..not sure if i answered the question or not.its not really a data logger but helps me with night day high low temps.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tokersmokeg said:
Blazin,

Prob a stupid answer but i bought a cheap temp and humidity jobber at the local home improvement store that can display the high and low temp and humidity.My temps now are running consistenly at 78 but humidity can be as low as 20%.im no phd like i stated i know the temp is good but im not sure about the humidty..not sure if i answered the question or not.its not really a data logger but helps me with night day high low temps.
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Yeah i have tons of those, they suck. all three read different temps when next to each other. Im looking for something that takes readings every 5 minutes and will either load them for me or make me wifi or lan download to a pc. Some of the nice units even have software to bring it to excel so you can all your temps and humidity for the whole course of your grow. Basically im looking to control everything and this is a step towards that. Plus i like seeing trends.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tokersmokeg said:
doc,

I guess we got so far off topic my original questions got lost in the mix and has already been answered with your post about testing consistencies.So ill stay off that topic now,and move forward with new ones.

You talk about the soil being mineralized.can you further elaborate on this?

I grow in ocean forest with worm castings perlite and lime and use botanicare pro blend nutes.I am getting awesome results time after time.But in my quest to grow the best meds for wifes seizures i know i can do better.So why the promix? promix is considered hydroponics right?I know you said you didnt want the supersoil or different ways being brought up i just thought it may be relevant to my personal questions.I am so curious about this method cause everyone is raving about it,and if it can help her more then my method ill jump on the high brix kit train.In fact if it is available ill buy the kit right now and do a side by side.Im no phd and dont claim to be.the wife thinks i should from all the rave reviews we just wanna know the science behind it we keep hearing about.are there any advantages you can tell us from a medical standpoint?Thanks doc!!
Click to expand...

Promix has the right mix(mostly) for achieving healthy soil that feeds your plants, with chem ferts you rely on npk to do that, well guess what? Amazing plants have been growing for thousands of years without NPK and they do great. Anything to do with soil has nothing to do with hydro, 2 totally different techniques.

IF your growing for your wife and to make her feel better, then without a doubt this is the best and healthiest way to do it sir. With high brix weed you get better more pronouced flavors along with way more res on the leafs, this right there will give your wife a step up against any hydro weed made with chemicals. Right now im using docs 6-5-3 method of rock powders since i cant do high brix and the difference there is amazing. I dont have pictures but i grew 4 auto aks, and only two have the rock powder and they have more weight and trics early on then the first two. The next step is to get more trics by starting High brix.

Like Doc says, NPK is the old way of doing stuff and sure it works but its not in sync with the plants. Go read up on healthy soil and you will see that its the way to go, organic living soil feeding your plants the way it was ment to be, honestly that right there sells it for me.

Sorry Doc, I know you said you were super busy and stressed so im trying to help out a bit.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

blazin,
thanks for your thoughts but from everything ive read about promix it is hydronics not soil.so how do create healthy soil in a hydroponic medium?I hate to sound argumentative after everything thats transpired but i think ill wait on the doc.npk is just numbers plants have thrived off decaying organisms and plant matter for years,before we came here.most local soil used to be good now after years of dumping chemical nutes on it they ruined the native soil so i see your point.so they were thriving off npk..composting occurs naturally worms shed their casting in the soil.its still npk.no offense blazin your setup is prob far ahead of mine just not what i was looking for in terms of answers.thanks for the thoughts!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

There seems to be confusion, hydroponics is the use of water and plant food with oxygen.
I have done hydroponics for years, it is. costly, time absorbing and the end product being massively Low
on taste and flavour.

So with high Brix you can have less time committed to the other methods that there are out there.
Enjoy more time enjoying the fruits of your labour rather than spending time working on the plants.











QUOTE=Graytail;1986173]Hydronics?

Premier Tech Horticulture - Growing Media and Sphagnum peat moss producer and distributor[/QUOTE]
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thanks bulldog,

Everytime i search for is promix hydro? i get all the same well thought out responses saying promix is not soil.im not a botanist so all i can do is read like everyone else.
 
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