With you saying it, it all seems so obvious. Thanks for that Canna, I'll do that now.I'd add it to the soil I was gonna use next. Use the new soil to start them in and by the time you transplant, the other soil will have processed what you added to it. Its also a good way to determine how "alive" your soil is
Doc, I have some deficiencies with one of my plants. Cat was just done so I will let everything dry out before anything is added. I have top dressed with recharge and EWC (I only added 2 cups of EWC). The leaves of my plant have faded some. Some of the leaves have purple veins appearing, not a lot, but some. Curious on the next step. I will add that my night temps have gotten to low. I will have to add a heater to my room. My lows have gotten down to 66 yesterday, that was the lowest. The next lights of low will be in the low 70s. I still have 4 weeks left.
Doc, I have some deficiencies with one of my plants. Cat was just done so I will let everything dry out before anything is added. I have top dressed with recharge and EWC (I only added 2 cups of EWC). The leaves of my plant have faded some. Some of the leaves have purple veins appearing, not a lot, but some. Curious on the next step. I will add that my night temps have gotten to low. I will have to add a heater to my room. My lows have gotten down to 66 yesterday, that was the lowest. The next lights of low will be in the low 70s. I still have 4 weeks left.
Don't let the pots dry out in flower. I use 10s and water/feed every 4 or 5 days in flower
More to the point, you'll do best if you keep a close eye on both humidity and soil moisture. I've always had less fade when I kept the humidity up, and did a midterm watering to keep the top layer moist. Like Tard, my 6 gallon pots needed water every 4-5 days, so after 2-3 days I'd flood the top with a quart of water and watch it soak down. That also helped the soil wick up the big drench a couple days later.
Don't let the pots dry out in flower. I use 10s and water/feed every 4 or 5 days in flower
I concur.
In my experience, night temps in the low 60s are just fine. Day temps are more important. If you're not in the 80s during daylight, growth won't be optimum. But a 20 degree swing in temps is a bit much for normal plant metabolism (10-15 is best), so mid to high 60s are best for nights.
And you might want to do the recharge/EWC earlier next time - give the soil more time to work with it. I always added three 16oz cups to my 6 gallons.
I concur.
In my experience, night temps in the low 60s are just fine. Day temps are more important. If you're not in the 80s during daylight, growth won't be optimum. But a 20 degree swing in temps is a bit much for normal plant metabolism (10-15 is best), so mid to high 60s are best for nights.
And you might want to do the recharge/EWC earlier next time - give the soil more time to work with it. I always added three 16oz cups to my 6 gallons.
I concur.
In my experience, night temps in the low 60s are just fine. Day temps are more important. If you're not in the 80s during daylight, growth won't be optimum. But a 20 degree swing in temps is a bit much for normal plant metabolism (10-15 is best), so mid to high 60s are best for nights.
And you might want to do the recharge/EWC earlier next time - give the soil more time to work with it. I always added three 16oz cups to my 6 gallons.
But when I would break up my rootballs (or in my case, rootcubes), I'd sometimes find dry pockets and that concerned me. And I instinctively wait for houseplants to wilt before I water them, so I had to adjust for bloom - cannabis doesn't like to get dry in bloom, especially under intense light.
Our topsoil should dry out at the same rate though.
I don't like to talk about supplemental watering because it's too easy for a reader to get a bad idea.
And last run, I began to toss a quart on top after a couple days, and my typical fade was completely under control unless I let one wilt.
But that would cause trouble for most people because most people don't want to let them go dry in the first place. They'll end up with soggy soil that won't breathe properly. There's a lot of production and exchange of gasses in soil.
I totally get you on the "bad ideas" part. I remembered Doc saying, a long time ago, that we should never let our soil dry out in bloom and I talk to "Curso" just about every day. Thats how I really learned about watering cycles....that and a little trial and error I reckon lol. Between, you, Doc, Duggan, DrZiggy, Shiggity and me, you'd think the information we've put out there would be ample for someone to read and get things right. Im not as technical as you guys but I have enough experience with the kit to know what does what by now...I think? Hahaha
And that's the best part of the kit.
Amongst us, we've screwed up just about any way you can, and in the end, you get great herb. Sometimes you get less of it and sometimes it ain' pretty, but it's always pretty great. The whole idea at first was what could you put together that no newbie could screw up.
I still get fascinated watching each new grower succeed with it.
Doc Buds High Brix Blend...Its a good thing
We use h202 to start the germination process and haven't had an issue. But we did have a clone that got TMV but the mother and the other clone didn't have it. Still pulled 5 ounces from her so it was recoverable.
