Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hash Hound said:
Doc I had to make an unorthodox move on one of my HB plants.

My mystery Nirvana sativa clone in this grow is still grew like crazy and barely showing a hair or two and the other plants are budding real nice as you have seen.

I don't have the heart to cull plants, especially a healthy one.
So last week the Nirvana clone was put outdoor at a place I might not be able to give the regular brix feedings.
and rain may be its only water if I don't get to check on her to often. There is no lack of rain this season.

I added about a 1/2 cup of Happy Frog Fruit and Flower 5-8-4 and scratched it in the top.

I made a point to check on her today to make sure she at least survived the transition.
She may be the most vibrant green I have ever seen on a plant.

Time will tell how a Kit raised plant will do with an abrupt difference in feedings.

"It's a science experiment Marty" ala Doc....Brown this is. as in Back to the Future.:rofl:
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Damnit Jim, I'm a fuckup not a Doctor!....but me likey....story...
 
Doc, I see people claiming your kit as "organic" growing. Is this still your current ingredient list (minus the Chilean Nitrate)?

Screenshot_2015-03-07-00-25-55-1.png


The ammonium/copper sulphate, Dextrose, phosphoric and phosphorous acid, calcium nitrate, and ammonium phosphate confuse me with these claims. Also, what is Eden, BioChar? If so, are you charging it yourself, or buying it that way?
 
36Gr0w said:
Doc, I see people claiming your kit as "organic" growing. Is this still your current ingredient list (minus the Chilean Nitrate)?

Screenshot_2015-03-07-00-25-55-1.png


The ammonium/copper sulphate, Dextrose, phosphoric and phosphorous acid, calcium nitrate, and ammonium phosphate confuse me with these claims. Also, what is Eden, BioChar? If so, are you charging it yourself, or buying it that way?
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What point are you trying to make?
 
Doc Bud said:
What point are you trying to make?
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With the ingredients listed, I don't see how it could be considered organic. Of course it is a broad term, so please correct me if I am wrong.

I believe you changed the Chilean Nitrate, are you considering changing the other ingredients not approved for organic growing? I know the lab offers organic alternatives for some of the products they sell, are you able to substitute these products in?

Many people achieve high brix levels organically, so it can be done.
 
36Gr0w said:
With the ingredients listed, I don't see how it could be considered organic. Of course it is a broad term, so please correct me if I am wrong.

I believe you changed the Chilean Nitrate, are you considering changing the other ingredients not approved for organic growing? I know the lab offers organic alternatives for some of the products they sell, are you able to substitute these products in?

Many people achieve high brix levels organically, so it can be done.
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Again, I ask what point are you trying to make?

Everything in the kit is organic....with the current exception of the Cat Drench, which has 2 ingredients that aren't politically labeled organic at this time. Everything else is.

The two "evil" ingredients are:

Ammonium phosphate
Ammonium sulfate

Now, again, what's your point?

As to the lab having organic alternatives....yes, they do. But they do not recommend them as growing nutrient dense food is better done using all tools at our disposal, not just the ones the government says are "organic."

So, again, what's your point?
 
Hey doc, I have my vegging plants in a 50/50 mix of pro mix and worm castings with some myco powder I had laying around while my kit is cooking and they look very healthy right now but I'm wondering if I'll need to do anything special to them when i go to transplant them into the hi brix soil?
 
Hi Doc and fellow DBHBB kit users

I've got my 2 Kits of soil cooked and I am ramping up getting ready for the official start of using your kit. I'll be transplanting some solo cup clones, currently in Happy Frog/EWC mix, into 1.5 quart containers of DBHBB cooked soil tomorrow or Saturday. They will be transplanted again from there into six 7 gal cloth pots once they are root bound. I was reviewing the In The Lab instructions and have a question or three.

  1. How do you define "When Buds Set In" I'm guessing...just as stretch is finishing and you get pistil explosion, hemispheres of pistils
  2. The instructions were officially updated October 2014, are there any new tweaks you have since instituted but have not made an update to the official instructions
  3. I'm on 24/0 CFLs for veg. How would you recommend transitioning into 12/12 with a 1000w HPS and 400w MH light in the bloom room. I was thinking using the MH by itself and reducing an hour/per day until around 16/8 and then flip the HPS as well, continue to reduce until 12/12. Is an hour/day too harsh or should I use 30 min/day, should I let them sit in dark for 24hrs first

As always thanks for your input.
 
I'll try to keep it light and quick.

Doc, my RO system is in repair. Busted a leak in a hose, could fix, but, I'm finishing a week on the beach with my familia. But, I'm close enough, and my wife is so helpful and considerate,,, that I go check on things at the house a few times a day. We rent this place now for the past five years and normally my tomatoes are kicking my butt this week.

But, I specifically planted late to put off the tomato butt kicking, and we had a rough winter so I go things going later. So, tomatoes are fine. But, three pLus days of ninety plus has taken a toll on my mmj water supply.

And, I flushed a plant today prior to the leak with 15 gallons of RO.

Once I saw the leak, I shut the system down and thought,,, fuuuuuuuuuck.

Then I called for a replacement, a second whole hose assembly, and new filters.

Oh, and I made or ran out twenty gallons of tap water.

My question - what makes your kit organic, is it my wateer

:volcano-smiley:

Just kidding, of course. My reeeeeeaaaaal question is, can I use left out tap water with the kit? If, I have to?

The parts are coming from the left coast and eta is Saturday. But,, my girls felt a bit light today.

Anyone else want to chime in about the water issue, NOT if Docs kit is organic. Cause I love how he deals with that anyway.

Ciao:thanks:
 
My water has chloramines, which I neutralize with two drops of molasses (a bit of compost will do as well) per gallon and let sit out for 10 minutes. Microbeman proved this works.
 
SweetSue said:
My water has chloramines, which I neutralize with two drops of molasses (a bit of compost will do as well) per gallon and let sit out for 10 minutes. Microbeman proved this works.
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Thanks, Sue. I've seen that, so molasses, even a few drops it's okay? My water was stable, I don't bother checking anymore with my RO system, but I'm just over thinking I'm sure.....
 
Just two tiny drops. That's all it takes. Let it sit and use immediately. I really appreciate Microbeman doing the science to back it up. Saved me loads of money and frustration. Rainwater collection is challenging on the third floor.
 
SweetSue said:
Just two tiny drops. That's all it takes. Let it sit and use immediately. I really appreciate Microbeman doing the science to back it up. Saved me loads of money and frustration. Rainwater collection is challenging on the third floor.
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I think you missed my point, I get the "science" behind what he does. I support him with my wallet, too. Anyway, if you use it I can see is good to good, if I need. Thank you
 
Got a quick question. I have some instructions for germinating in DBHB soil. They are:

"So, here's my method

1. Room temps in the low to mid 70's
2. Rh about 60%
3. High Brix soil, with Roots! added to the hole you'll put the seed
4. BRIGHT light over the seedling. When I say bright I mean like a T5 one inch above the seedling, or an LED putting out a similar amount of light.
5. soak seeds in water for 12-24 hours, DO NOT LET THEM CRACK OPEN IN THE WATER
6. Plant. Moisten. Wait.

You won't get 100% females doing this usually, although I have. I have also gotten males from "femmed" seeds so nothing is perfect, but using this method you'll have healthy seedlings that are more often than not females."

That being said, would you guys add anything to the water? Would you water once and let them be or continue watering throughout the day? This question is for anyone here, feel free to throw out a lifeline.
 
JuanCarlos said:
Got a quick question. I have some instructions for germinating in DBHB soil. They are:

"So, here's my method

1. Room temps in the low to mid 70's
2. Rh about 60%
3. High Brix soil, with Roots! added to the hole you'll put the seed
4. BRIGHT light over the seedling. When I say bright I mean like a T5 one inch above the seedling, or an LED putting out a similar amount of light.
5. soak seeds in water for 12-24 hours, DO NOT LET THEM CRACK OPEN IN THE WATER
6. Plant. Moisten. Wait.

You won't get 100% females doing this usually, although I have. I have also gotten males from "femmed" seeds so nothing is perfect, but using this method you'll have healthy seedlings that are more often than not females."

That being said, would you guys add anything to the water? Would you water once and let them be or continue watering throughout the day? This question is for anyone here, feel free to throw out a lifeline.
Click to expand...

I plant and leave them until the cups feel like they're filled with air. Then I drench very slowly and carefully and let it dry out again. I personally don't add anything to the water until the leaves hit the edges of the cups, and then, if I add anything it's a light Tea. I'll be interested to hear how others do theirs.
 
JuanCarlos said:
Got a quick question. I have some instructions for germinating in DBHB soil. They are:

"So, here's my method

1. Room temps in the low to mid 70's
2. Rh about 60%
3. High Brix soil, with Roots! added to the hole you'll put the seed
4. BRIGHT light over the seedling. When I say bright I mean like a T5 one inch above the seedling, or an LED putting out a similar amount of light.
5. soak seeds in water for 12-24 hours, DO NOT LET THEM CRACK OPEN IN THE WATER
6. Plant. Moisten. Wait.

You won't get 100% females doing this usually, although I have. I have also gotten males from "femmed" seeds so nothing is perfect, but using this method you'll have healthy seedlings that are more often than not females."

That being said, would you guys add anything to the water? Would you water once and let them be or continue watering throughout the day? This question is for anyone here, feel free to throw out a lifeline.
Click to expand...


I'll dribble a spoonful of water over the center of the cup if a seed hasn't sprouted in a few days, just to be sure the soil around it stays wet. But at your temps and humidity, once you've soaked the cup and planted the seed, it'll be a good week before it needs more water. You want the roots out exploring the cup, not hangin' by the pool. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
What Graytail said Juan. :battingeyelashes:
 
xtrchessreal said:
Hi Doc and fellow DBHBB kit users

I've got my 2 Kits of soil cooked and I am ramping up getting ready for the official start of using your kit. I'll be transplanting some solo cup clones, currently in Happy Frog/EWC mix, into 1.5 quart containers of DBHBB cooked soil tomorrow or Saturday. They will be transplanted again from there into six 7 gal cloth pots once they are root bound. I was reviewing the In The Lab instructions and have a question or three.

  1. How do you define "When Buds Set In" I'm guessing...just as stretch is finishing and you get pistil explosion, hemispheres of pistils Yep, that's it.
  2. The instructions were officially updated October 2014, are there any new tweaks you have since instituted but have not made an update to the official instructions......Yes, DeSTress is now 1/2 oz per quart. I've got to update labels, etc. The instructions are quite valid in everything else.
  3. I'm on 24/0 CFLs for veg. How would you recommend transitioning into 12/12 with a 1000w HPS and 400w MH light in the bloom room. I was thinking using the MH by itself and reducing an hour/per day until around 16/8 and then flip the HPS as well, continue to reduce until 12/12. Is an hour/day too harsh or should I use 30 min/day, should I let them sit in dark for 24hrs first


Just bloom them. All that reducing and everything is just a hassle IMO.

As always thanks for your input.
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My answers in red.
 
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