Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
Doc, I am going to use a dilute Transplant water only, no Tea, in the SWICK. it seems to be most user friendly and compatible with all the kits drenches. The other drenches when the time is right, will be used over the top, with Tea.
My question I just thought of while writing this, should one use a stronger drench than usual when feeding from the top, when using SWICK since the soil will be hydrated already? :scratchinghead: TY
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This has always been my approach. The reservoir is water and perlite/lava rock only. Drenches are lower volume, and therefore more concentrated. The even hydration of the soil medium should facilitate smooth shuttling of matter through the matrix. Water slowly and deliberately to get it evenly distributed. I've always taken longer to top drench. I want to let it slowly work it's way through the matrix without getting into the perlite. So far I've had great success.

Comfrey and stinging nettle. Very good things. Yarrow and dandelion are not to be overlooked. A storehouse of micro-nutrients packed into each and every tea.
 
Doc Bud said:
My germination rate is near 100%. I just got 11/12 3 yr old Colombian seeds to pop. I have no idea why people have trouble....I certainly don't.

Here's what I do:

Soak seeds in plain water for 12-24 hours. Longer times for older seeds. Do NOT let them open in the water.

In moistened HB soil, make a small divet with a pencil, chopstick, vape pen.....whatever.
Sprinkle a small amount of Roots! in the divet.
Place the seed in the divet and gently pinch the hole closed.

Wait patiently....perhaps moisten the top of the soil a bit after 2 or 3 days.....wait patiently.

Boom.

I won't start seeds in anything but dirt.
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Could too much "Roots!" in the seed hole cause damage? Maybe people are over-estimating the amount of roots you need to sprinkle?

I like the results I have seen from starting in RockWool, but I don't like having a chunk of it in my soil... I'm just weird and OCD like that, so I would much rather prefer to start them in soil. I think I'll risk it for the biscuit. Thanks Doc.


When you take cuttings do you dip them in "Roots!" before putting them in your Rapid Rooters?



(I know I ask a lot of questions now, but soon I shall be on the team that answers all of the HB questions! So again, thank you for all of the help you have offered Doc)
 
MaxYields said:
When you take cuttings do you dip them in "Roots!" before putting them in your Rapid Rooters?
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I did root one cutting directly into soil and it did very well, but took longer than my usual method.

I choose to root my cuttings in RapidRooters/RootRiot plugs, in a tray with a dome, under a weak grow light.

I dip them in Clonex, put them in a moistened plug and ignore them for days at a time, other than to spray with half strength DeStress a few times a week.

They all root.....can't think of the last time one didn't root.

The main reason I do it this way is because I don't have the space in the veg room to keep all kinds of small pots of dirt laying around. I can keep 50 cuttings in the clone tray and it's easy to cull them, which I do all the time.

I try to make 4 or 5 times more cuttings than I'll need, and keep 2 or 3 times the number of plants in veg that I need....this way I've always got something ready to take the place of a freshly harvested plant, or a vegged plant newly gone into bloom.

Roots! does not "eat' seeds! Quite the opposite!

I have no idea why people are having trouble with seeds, but I can't help but remember a purchase I made a few years ago of 100 seeds.....of which exactly 12 germinated. They were pure crap!!!
 
Re: seedlings

Doc Bud said:
Again, I have zero problem starting seeds. I don't know what all the trouble is! May I suggest that perhaps the seeds people are buying online aren't completely fresh?
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When working with seeds that you may not know the age of, or you know to be old seeds, I suggest a soak in fulvic or humic acid.

A modified cut and paste of Clackamas Coots speaking to germination of seeds. The bolded section is my input.

"Fulvic and Humic acids (the real stuff anyway) can play a beneficial role as well. Kelp meal contains the very same rooting compounds found in the powders, gels & whatever at the grow except these are not synthetically produced and co-exist with a complex web of amino acids, enzymes, compounds and elements.

The recommendation from BioAg (which is the brand that I use) is to soak the seeds in a solution with one or the other.

If you're using the BioAg Fulvic acid then you want to add 7 tsp. of the liquid to 1 gallon of pure water - the entry reads, per se, 35ml/gal (1-100 dilution rate)

If you're using their Humic acid (I use TM-7: all the power of Ful-Humix, with humic and fulvic acids, plus SEVEN Micronutrients required for plant growth) then add 1/4 tsp. to 1 gallon of pure water and soak for 48 - 72 hours."
 
Re: seedlings

SweetSue said:
When working with seeds that you may not know the age of, or you know to be old seeds, I suggest a soak in fulvic or humic acid.

A modified cut and paste of Clackamas Coots speaking to germination of seeds. The bolded section is my input.

"Fulvic and Humic acids (the real stuff anyway) can play a beneficial role as well. Kelp meal contains the very same rooting compounds found in the powders, gels & whatever at the grow except these are not synthetically produced and co-exist with a complex web of amino acids, enzymes, compounds and elements.

The recommendation from BioAg (which is the brand that I use) is to soak the seeds in a solution with one or the other.

If you're using the BioAg Fulvic acid then you want to add 7 tsp. of the liquid to 1 gallon of pure water - the entry reads, per se, 35ml/gal (1-100 dilution rate)

If you're using their Humic acid (I use TM-7: all the power of Ful-Humix, with humic and fulvic acids, plus SEVEN Micronutrients required for plant growth) then add 1/4 tsp. to 1 gallon of pure water and soak for 48 - 72 hours."
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My "Tea" product is humic acid, beneficials and trace elements. I have not tried using it in water for seeds.....simply because I have not had any trouble, but it sure finds it's way into the soil!

There are several reliable methods to germinate seeds. However, there are some guidelines to follow if you want healthy FEMALE plants from seed:

1. germinate in the low 70's
2. Rh about 60%
3. Do not let the roots see daylight. (no more paper towell)
4. do not handle the roots.
5. allow seeds to germinate in a grow medium so that Gravitropism(geotropism, same thing) gets a chance to work.
6. don't give up until at least 10 days after planting OR if 7 of 8 came up days ago, etc. PATIENCE.

The seed from a healthy plant has EVERYTHING the plant needs to germinate built in. Add water and patience.....

harsh conditions will bring more males, while gentle conditions as described above will bring more females. BTW, the first 72 hours after germination determine sex in most cases. Treat them harshly and trouble is waiting.....
 
Re: seedlings

Doc Bud said:
I don't know why you came to this conclusion. The soil is anything but hot.
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I guess I misunderstood your recent explanation to people who were frustrated with trying to pop seeds and having all of them die. They were in 2nd or 3rd run soil, you identified this as the problem and told them to use fresh soil as the 2nd run was killing their seeds.

I'm sure I have trouble with reading comprehension.

Trying to keep relevant details straight through this process isn't easy. As much as I've read I'm trying to find some specific upcanning instructions or experiences...going from solo cups to....maybe 1 gal smarties...is what I have laying around right now....I have about 20 pages marked and most of them read but....its not my first rodeo I'm not really worried.
 
Re: seedlings

BrixKlinger said:
I guess I misunderstood your recent explanation to people who were frustrated with trying to pop seeds and having all of them die. They were in 2nd or 3rd run soil, you identified this as the problem and told them to use fresh soil as the 2nd run was killing their seeds.

I'm sure I have trouble with reading comprehension.

Trying to keep relevant details straight through this process isn't easy. As much as I've read I'm trying to find some specific upcanning instructions or experiences...going from solo cups to....maybe 1 gal smarties...is what I have laying around right now....I have about 20 pages marked and most of them read but....its not my first rodeo I'm not really worried.
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I said that? No wonder you came to that conclusion!

I'm not sure why people are having trouble, but if their method of recycling soil is making it too hot.....something isn't being done right...or the seeds aren't good to begin with.

I don't think you'll have any trouble at all if you use HB soil to germinate seeds. In fact, I think you'll have mad success.
 
BrixKlinger said:
Maybe Tav said it. We could blame him. Tav has really sexy plants we could blame Tav. He even has the beach. Can't be trusted with the beach and plants like that....
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I don't think we need to blame anyone.....if I said it I said it.

Having said that, I use my soil to germinate seeds without problems.
 
BrixKlinger said:
Maybe Tav said it. We could blame him. Tav has really sexy plants we could blame Tav. He even has the beach. Can't be trusted with the beach and plants like that....
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Bahahhahaa! I did mention issues with germing in soil LOL. I had a couple hard/failed starts in soil, not really sure what happened but the soil ate whatever was trying to grow. Blame me! It's these damned beaches out here, the hot Hawaiian sun got my brain fried. All this high Brix produce doesn't help either. Who knows maybe I was so high I ph'd the water i was going to use hahahahahahahhaa!
Don't listen to the crazy Hawaiian they said
 
PakaloloHawaii said:
Bahahhahaa! I did mention issues with germing in soil LOL. I had a couple hard/failed starts in soil, not really sure what happened but the soil ate whatever was trying to grow. Blame me! It's these damned beaches out here, the hot Hawaiian sun got my brain fried. All this high Brix produce doesn't help either. Who knows maybe I was so high I ph'd the water i was going to use hahahahahahahhaa!
Don't listen to the crazy Hawaiian they said
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Got a Rake to go with that pH?

:rofl:
 
I have been thinking (that can be very dangerous for me) would I be able to use the two full bag of the pro mix 2.2 cuft for a total of 2.2 cuft of pro mix for the kits or would that through everything off
 
Doc Bud said:
You'll have your kit in 2-3 days. It was dropped at the post about an hour ago.
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Yeah, I saw that. Just wanted to share how amped I am. Still plugging away at your two main threads. Ive read Albrecht's and Ream's work so your kit is going to be my intro. I also plan on running your 6-5-3 side by side as well because I'm curious about the difference. Really just curious to follow your foot steps and see the path you walked per say.

Do these get the new spify doc labels I've seen in the previous pages of your threads with the new instructions or do I have hit the lab up? Cool stuff, Doc.

Oh yeah, and one more question. I've tried bud washing a handful of times now. I don't foliar spray like you so my bud doesn't end up all that dirty according to the water color but for some reason I swear the washed bud is a little more special than the rest. Any idea why???
 
BreezeEazy said:
Yeah, I saw that. Just wanted to share how amped I am. Still plugging away at your two main threads. Ive read Albrecht's and Ream's work so your kit is going to be my intro. I also plan on running your 6-5-3 side by side as well because I'm curious about the difference. Really just curious to follow your foot steps and see the path you walked per say.

Do these get the new spify doc labels I've seen in the previous pages of your threads with the new instructions or do I have hit the lab up? Cool stuff, Doc.

Oh yeah, and one more question. I've tried bud washing a handful of times now. I don't foliar spray like you so my bud doesn't end up all that dirty according to the water color but for some reason I swear the washed bud is a little more special than the rest. Any idea why???
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I just wanted to see if I'm right on this. My theory is that the hydration introduced during bud washing extends the drying time and the harvest simply cures better because of it.

Did I get any stars for that one Doc?
 
DrZiggy said:
Doc, I have been noticing lately, lots of my leaves on the test plants, but not with the ACE sativas, i.e purple malawi, are flat..very flat and stiff. Is this strain related?
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Hmmmm, I'm not sure.
 
PakaloloHawaii said:
Bahahhahaa! I did mention issues with germing in soil LOL. I had a couple hard/failed starts in soil, not really sure what happened but the soil ate whatever was trying to grow. Blame me! It's these damned beaches out here, the hot Hawaiian sun got my brain fried. All this high Brix produce doesn't help either. Who knows maybe I was so high I ph'd the water i was going to use hahahahahahahhaa!
Don't listen to the crazy Hawaiian they said
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Growing with the lolo.....pakalolo!
 
Jgutta22g said:
I have been thinking (that can be very dangerous for me) would I be able to use the two full bag of the pro mix 2.2 cuft for a total of 2.2 cuft of pro mix for the kits or would that through everything off
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I'd use a bit less.....otherwise the minerals will be weak.
 
2015-04-01_21_00_09.jpg

This is a ten gallon sterile tote with holes drilled n the lid with air pump & 4 stones for bubbling. I have had this setup going for about 2 week. Top feed very slowly.
 
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