Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Governmentchz said:
To further support that line of thinking, I was in Michigan with my Mom and left in the 4th grade to live with my father in Key West (1971). I did my competency testing for placement, and that's when the issues started. I was reading on an 11th grade level (according to them) and they had no place for me at the time. For the remainder of my 4th grade year I was put into a classroom by myself and given 5th grade workbooks for self-paced learning. I knocked it all out in a month and simply turned in my weekly assignments each Friday. It was silly. The teacher hated me because she thought I was trying to make them look stupid. My first day (before the aforementioned testing) I came into class and they were taking a math test. The teacher said I didn't have to take it if I didn't want to, but I took it anyway. A few minutes later, I was the first one finished with the test and was accused of cheating because I got them all correct...lol. It was downhill from there.
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I left Michigan after the 4th grade too, went to Arizona. Tested too high and was put into an advanced class. The teacher told us first day that the point of the class was to slow us down and let the rest catch up, but that didn't work ;)
 
Hey Doc, I finally got caught up on this thread and I only skipped about 200 pages or so :D. I know you are very busy but I was wondering if you could give me a little direction. My wife and I recently were able to move forward on a goal we have (more of a dream) and we are about to have 3 acres to use for crops. Our plan is to have about a half acre of dwarf fruit trees, about 2/3 to an acre market garden, and some pasture for a couple sheep. I was wondering how much the soil tests were through you or the lab and how many I should take for each area. I have a lot more reading to do but I saw that in High-Brix they do not suggest rotating crops and am not sure if that works for all crops. Do the amendments vary from crop to crop or from family to family? In other words, our soil is geared specifically to cannabis, how different would it be for hops? Does each vegetable have cifferent amendments? I know the soil grows awesome vegetables, but is not set up exact for them so how much play is there in a diverse market garden? And finally, would I get my amendments from you or should I contact the lab myself? I am hoping to do a few plants in a hoop-house this year too :)

Forgot to mention that we want to do rotational grazing with meat chickens and pigs too. How well does that go with the High-Brix method? I think you have said chicken ferts are ok but we prefer fishy.
 
Holy crap, I sat out 5th grade! I was young for my grade anyway and they didn't want to advance me, so they just let me do whatever I wanted to all that year.

Hmm ... odd place to find a pattern, eh? Is it the cannabis habit or the forum? :laughtwo:
 
Cannabiscures said:
Hey Doc, I finally got caught up on this thread and I only skipped about 200 pages or so :D. I know you are very busy but I was wondering if you could give me a little direction. My wife and I recently were able to move forward on a goal we have (more of a dream) and we are about to have 3 acres to use for crops. Our plan is to have about a half acre of dwarf fruit trees, about 2/3 to an acre market garden, and some pasture for a couple sheep. I was wondering how much the soil tests were through you or the lab and how many I should take for each area. I have a lot more reading to do but I saw that in High-Brix they do not suggest rotating crops and am not sure if that works for all crops. Do the amendments vary from crop to crop or from family to family? In other words, our soil is geared specifically to cannabis, how different would it be for hops? Does each vegetable have cifferent amendments? I know the soil grows awesome vegetables, but is not set up exact for them so how much play is there in a diverse market garden? And finally, would I get my amendments from you or should I contact the lab myself? I am hoping to do a few plants in a hoop-house this year too :)

Forgot to mention that we want to do rotational grazing with meat chickens and pigs too. How well does that go with the High-Brix method? I think you have said chicken ferts are ok but we prefer fishy.
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The best thing to do for a market garden of that size is to take several samples, perhaps 3 if there is a considerable slope. Then it's just a matter of amending the soil with a mineral broadcast and possibly something else.

The soil does vary slightly from crop to crop, but the soil we're using is perfect for almost all vegetables with the exception of squashes and melons.

Crops can be rotated, and green mulches, especially cover crops are recommended often times.

As for ferts, my kit relies 100% on the fishy ferts
 
Fishy ferts is one component I haven't yet considered for my garden. I realize I'm on an HB thread and I grow with LOS, so if I've crossed some line here don't hesitate to let me know. The maintenance of my no-till doesn't necessarily call for the addition of fish hydrolysate. Forgive a completely noob question here, but what benefit do you think I would gain from including it in a regular schedule of amending drenches?
 
Sweetsue said:
Fishy ferts is one component I haven't yet considered for my garden. I realize I'm on an HB thread and I grow with LOS, so if I've crossed some line here don't hesitate to let me know. The maintenance of my no-till doesn't necessarily call for the addition of fish hydrolysate. Forgive a completely noob question here, but what benefit do you think I would gain from including it in a regular schedule of amending drenches?
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The advantages to fish hydrolysate are:

1. low potassium, no salts, very low in metals.
2. Non GMO
3. being a very thin liquid it goes through pumps, sprayers and all manner of fertigation fittings, etc.
4. It is extremely good for the soil residents and dosing it is easy and it won't burn.
5. Low cost.


I'm not sure what benefit you would gain, Sue. It's not like it's the "very best" or the "only thing" at all.....it's just a practical way of increasing soil energy and sustaining a robust microbial population. It's not the only way and sometimes I'd prefer some chicken manure but my favorite source for Chicken Manure won't certify their chickens are fed a non-gmo diet, so I won't use the product.

I'm all about my food and medicine being 100% natural and healthy and the GMO thing doesn't fit into my plans.
 
I didn't mean I would be putting chicken ferts on so much as the chickens would be pooping right on the garden after each season :). I know you don't use chicken ferts, just wondering how compatable chicken poop was or if it would make it hard to maintain brix.
 
Any2cards said:
Hello all,

What devices/methods do you all use to extract droplets for refractometer use?

Any2
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I've seen pliers and Vice-Grips with a pair of small metal plates (like the knock-out slugs from a metal electrical box).
Seems like sheet metal welding pliers or clamp might be the hot setup. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get them of $6 - $9 and they go on sale all the time for less. I'd post a link, but don't know if that is considered cool on this forum.

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Hello Everyone!

So a week from today I will be chopping down my first HB lady and wondering if anyone has tips on how I should finish out the week? I was going to water one more time with growth tonight or tomorrow and then tues/wed hit with water and transplant.
 
PrimalUrge said:
Hello Everyone!

So a week from today I will be chopping down my first HB lady and wondering if anyone has tips on how I should finish out the week? I was going to water one more time with growth tonight or tomorrow and then tues/wed hit with water and transplant.
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Grats! Most of us finish on energy only no transplant the last week and give them a final brix spray a day or two before chop. Doc also recommends hanging them in the light for 12 -24 hours after the wash.
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
Grats! Most of us finish on energy only no transplant the last week and give them a final brix spray a day or two before chop. Doc also recommends hanging them in the light for 12 -24 hours after the wash.
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I have to edit this, Im playing video games and trying to type and it didnt work out. I washed then hung them now that i think about it, just a little confused.
 
Cannabiscures said:
I didn't mean I would be putting chicken ferts on so much as the chickens would be pooping right on the garden after each season :). I know you don't use chicken ferts, just wondering how compatable chicken poop was or if it would make it hard to maintain brix.
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It's actually a REALLY good thing, but I can't get composted chicken manure from chickens that weren't fed GMO diet. I would love to use them, but it would require a slight tweaking of the mineral broadcast.

If I can source the good stuff, I'll probably do it.

RE: chickens pooping right on the garden.....as long as the manure gets a chance to compost that would be a good thing.
 
Any2cards said:
Hello all,

What devices/methods do you all use to extract droplets for refractometer use?

Any2
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I use a pair of modified vice-grips, but the best method is a stainless mortar and pestle.
 
PrimalUrge said:
Hello Everyone!

So a week from today I will be chopping down my first HB lady and wondering if anyone has tips on how I should finish out the week? I was going to water one more time with growth tonight or tomorrow and then tues/wed hit with water and transplant.
Click to expand...

One feeding should do it.....I prefer Growth Energy, but that's not a rule.
 
Ordered my kit on Wednesday > it arrived today, Saturday.
Thanks Doc! I be cookin' now!

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Old pond liner = makeshift HB mixing tub

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