Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

captaincronik said:
Now i thought i read somewhere someone said avoid using grow bags in docs kit...
Cant think of any reason why...

I plan on potting up into 7 gal bags..

Anyone got 2 cents on this?

Keep it in plastic or go for the bags?
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It's a point of debate around these parts--I've personally used them for years, in the kit, with great success. I agree with everything Wren and Doc said, but thought I'd add my perspective. Roots don't like air exposure, but they do need a porous, aerobic soil, which *I* personally can have a hard time achieving in areas with relative humidity often 60+%.

Others sometimes have a hard time figuring out how to change their Kit habits for appropriate timing and dosage in the smart pots. You can see traditional pots and smart pots in this old photo--I'll even run them together when I feel like it, with damn near the same feedings and timings, except for when it's different. Some plants metabolize slower, others faster, and it makes a BIG difference in paying attention to these things and changing the timing of the drenches and foliars accordingly. Growing slower? WAIT on the cat! Going faster? Consider skipping a between-drench-watering and go straight from one drench to the next. Look at the plants. Listen to them! In the photo below, the plants in the smart pots are respirating better than the one not in them--we have different genetics at play here, but this observation seems to be a trend in my tents.

Malawi x Tangie OG, GDP, Devil's Carnival

Malawi x Tangie OG, GDP, Devil's Carnival

Growing in Doc Bud's High Brix Blend

They do dry out faster and tend to leach/runoff more drench when 'watering' which I appreciate--this means more wet/dry cycles, which means more total drenches/foliars in that time, and in my experience, that's been a good thing. My brix readings are highest the day after a drench. Others seem to have odd issues occasionally--excesses/deficiencies--but in my opinion, that's user error, not the bags. Again, this has been debated--but I thought I'd give you my perspective, as a long-time advocate of the bags.



Hope this helps!

:passitleft:
 
StoneyMemoirs said:
It's a point of debate around these parts--I've personally used them for years, in the kit, with great success. I agree with everything Wren and Doc said, but thought I'd add my perspective. Roots don't like air exposure, but they do need a porous, aerobic soil, which *I* personally can have a hard time achieving in areas with relative humidity often 60+%.

Others sometimes have a hard time figuring out how to change their Kit habits for appropriate timing and dosage in the smart pots. You can see traditional pots and smart pots in this old photo--I'll even run them together when I feel like it, with damn near the same feedings and timings, except for when it's different. Some plants metabolize slower, others faster, and it makes a BIG difference in paying attention to these things and changing the timing of the drenches and foliars accordingly. Growing slower? WAIT on the cat! Going faster? Consider skipping a between-drench-watering and go straight from one drench to the next. Look at the plants. Listen to them! In the photo below, the plants in the smart pots are respirating better than the one not in them--we have different genetics at play here, but this observation seems to be a trend in my tents.

Malawi x Tangie OG, GDP, Devil's Carnival

Malawi x Tangie OG, GDP, Devil's Carnival

Growing in Doc Bud's High Brix Blend

They do dry out faster and tend to leach/runoff more drench when 'watering' which I appreciate--this means more wet/dry cycles, which means more total drenches/foliars in that time, and in my experience, that's been a good thing. My brix readings are highest the day after a drench. Others seem to have odd issues occasionally--excesses/deficiencies--but in my opinion, that's user error, not the bags. Again, this has been debated--but I thought I'd give you my perspective, as a long-time advocate of the bags.



Hope this helps!

:passitleft:
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Great points. But please, no light exposure on young roots.
 
has any one ordered a bulk kit and split it up for one bail of promix instead of all four? It doesn't look easy to split up the dry amendments lol

I have some new seeds that broke the surface and i realized i wont have enough cooked soil for transplant time. Six plants in 15 gal potting = about 90 gal of soil and i only have that first run 42 gallon cooked soil.... yikes.

I'll probably buy all four bails + Worm casing and mix em up. I can have one of the 55 gal tote stored in a warm room and i don't have a spot for the other 100 gal of soil. It'll probably be stored in the basement about 50 degrees and would be rotated into a warm room once that first 55 gal tote is used. Kinda wished it was still summer, so i could just leave them totes out in the warm/hot garage lol

edit: what's the deal with the prices of promix on the zon? lol..... Ive seen em go for like what 50 bucks range?

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OK from a couple members, not on this thread have said to start seedlings in a clear solo cup inside of another solid cup to protect the roots then to my larger pot that way I am not over watering the seedling and I can pull out the clear solo cup from the solid one and see when the roots are bound and ready, so should I do that or start in a one gallon pot ? then to the bigger pot :surf:
 
PCaddict said:
OK from a couple members, not on this thread have said to start seedlings in a clear solo cup inside of another solid cup to protect the roots then to my larger pot that way I am not over watering the seedling and I can pull out the clear solo cup from the solid one and see when the roots are bound and ready, so should I do that or start in a one gallon pot ? then to the bigger pot :surf:
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Doc will tell you it's not recommended.

You can do that, but keep in mind that every time you transplant them, they get stressed and slow down their growth. Also, that's a really small amount of soil to keep a healthy microbe population, which is what feeds the plants in our system.
 
Morglie said:
Doc will tell you it's not recommended.

You can do that, but keep in mind that every time you transplant them, they get stressed and slow down their growth. Also, that's a really small amount of soil to keep a healthy microbe population, which is what feeds the plants in our system.
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So it would be best to start the germinated seed right in a one gal. pot then transplant to the final 7gal. pot is that correct ?
 
Van Stank said:
I don't know man....LOL.....as an outsider that has never used the kit but follows a lot of growers using the kit, for such a simple process there seems to be a lot of confusion...... which there shouldn't be if the system is really that simple. Use the chart, don't use the chart......follow the directions vs its common sense.

Don't get me wrong, I have smoked several strains grown by Neiko and the results are amazing but seems like there is either a lot of misinformation or just too many bad sets of instructions floating around out there that seem to confuse a lot of growers.

Hopefully you can help add some clarity to it Duggs....good luck brother!
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FYI, the real difference is that the chart specifies the drenches on specific days and is really for the newbs or those having problems understanding the simple directions.

You just alternate the drenches through the whole grow cycle with two CAT's around week #4 of flower and in between drenches is water + Transplant. However, rather than drenching on a specific day on the chart, you really want to do it when the soil is close to dry in veg (less dry in flower) and those days won't always fall on the days listed on the chart.

Don't get confused by all the confusion - it IS simple! ;)
 
You're confusing me Krip! I thought out was simple!?!? :rofl:

PC, start in 1's. I've had best luck just dropping the seeds right in the soil. You do have to soak the soil first or some put straight pro mix on top. If the seeds are older, you should soak until they crack, no longer and right in the soil. The few times I've put right in soil, they came up in less than 3 days!

7's are the reccomended minimum but bigger is better. 10s, 15's.....

:passitleft:
 
Wat Ween said PC...exactly! :headbanger:
 
weenmeoff said:
You're confusing me Krip! I thought out was simple!?!? :rofl:

PC, start in 1's. I've had best luck just dropping the seeds right in the soil. You do have to soak the soil first or some put straight pro mix on top. If the seeds are older, you should soak until they crack, no longer and right in the soil. The few times I've put right in soil, they came up in less than 3 days!

7's are the reccomended minimum but bigger is better. 10s, 15's.....

:passitleft:
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Thank You I am glad to be getting this all sorted out now. I will use 1 gal. pots I already have them so I will use them. I picked them up yester day along with some markers so my CRS brain can remember what stain are in what pots and some trays for the bottoms of the pots. I have also decided to Quadline and only do 4 plants in my 5X5 tent that way I can have room to foliar spray and water.
 
Krip....lmfao. :rofl: ...take that friggen chart and lose the fartin thing....
 
Maybe it would be a good idea to get a block of wood and drill out a bunch of holes in rows to insert colored golf tees to track the various drenches, waters and sprays for those of us that still use pickup sticks to help us add things together?
 
Skybound said:
Maybe it would be a good idea to get a block of wood and drill out a bunch of holes in rows to insert colored golf tees to track the various drenches, waters and sprays for those of us that still use pickup sticks to help us add things together?
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You'd only need four holes and one tee! TP, Water + TP, GE, Water + TP and repeat until CATs then repeat after CATs. Add your weekly brix foliar and you're good unless you see problems.
 
Mr. Krip said:
You'd only need four holes and one tee! TP, Water + TP, GE, Water + TP and repeat until CATs then repeat after CATs. Add your weekly brix foliar and you're good unless you see problems.
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Why do you say Water+TP? Is there ever a time when TP is made w/o water?
 
Sky...Krip means sometimes when we water with plain water...we add 1/4 strength Trans to it. SOMETIMES.
 
Mr. Krip said:
You'd only need four holes and one tee! TP, Water + TP, GE, Water + TP and repeat until CATs then repeat after CATs. Add your weekly brix foliar and you're good unless you see problems.
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OR a magnet. NOTICE the RED magnetic ARROW bottom left area pointing to the next process.
and the ROUND DONE mag pointing to what was recently finished

Laminated instruction sheet magnetized to the GROW Light HOOD for easy reference
Oh I use the Erasable White Board markers to add notes



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  • Media owner Gazoo
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HOOD LOG
 
But it’s the lizard that unlocks the secret frost code, right? :laughtwo: I use coloured pencils on a hand drawn wall chart to track my drenches. I love it that the products are kinda colour coded. If the colours ever change it’ll take me a while to adjust!
 
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