Hey PC, yes, u can do that , but a better, more efficient way is to start them in #1's, after about a month to 6 weeks , transplant into your finals. Cheers.
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Sounds like a plan. I wasn't going to use any other products other then the Kit I will buy from the Zon I was just curious I will follow the plan in the kit. I will mix your recipe ProMix , EWC and the kit only . I will not mix it until next spring then have you test it next fall. I think I already know the answer but do you use a cover crop ?
Would Frass for chitin be a bad top dress on kit soil?
Sounds like a plan. I wasn't going to use any other products other then the Kit I will buy from the Zon I was just curious I will follow the plan in the kit. I will mix your recipe ProMix , EWC and the kit only . I will not mix it until next spring then have you test it next fall. I think I already know the answer but do you use a cover crop ?
Thank You I was thinking Doc meant to test the High Brix kit soil So I don't have to test the High Brix soil I use the kit on, I was confused , So I get a refractometer and take Brix readings and amend according to what it says in the kit as I go?Just to make sure WE are all on the same page and make it clear
it sounds like you might be under the impression you need to test the Kit soil,
we dont as long as we use the supplied products and the recommended soil and EWC (NO K)
You dont have to TEST the soil if you use the recommended PRO-MIX, its been tested.
you will only need to add the EWC (no k) and Amendment, Cook and GO
High PCrefractometer
Thank You for the clarificationHigh PC
You don’t need a refractometer and you don’t have to measure anything
With the DBHBB ‘Kit’ grow, you buy the base medium Doc recommends, you amend it with the dry amendment from the kit (which is exactly the right amount for a bale of promix) and cook it for a month, and use the Drenches and Foliars from the kit on the soil and plants, as laid out in the instructions.
The rest is just watching the plants grow.
Anything else is extra and not required.
And when Doc was referring to soil testing, he was referring to your outside soil, or native soil. That is another way to do it. You can have your own soil tested and, if it’s amendable, Doc will make an amendment specially for it. I’ve done that outside here, but for my indoor container grows I’m using the basic ‘kit’ with the PM medium.
So really all you need is the pro mix, castings and the kit and you’re good to go.
Thank You for the clarification
Doc shared his web site with me a few days ago I found a lot of good info from there. Thank You for sharing
Clawing is normally due to to much nitrogen. That's a plant that more sensitive to it than the others. Cut your GI drench in half of what you have been giving it and that should help correct it. It'll take a while, maybe a week or so before it will correct itself.Morning gang,
Question for experienced dbhbb growers.
What could be the cause for a plant to claw when others are perfectly fine? My guess is that one of my plant is clawing because it need more watering with 1/4 strength of tp in between Growth and Transplant.
Is it just the HBB, or does all soils generally flower longer? In my hydro, I have an Em Dog that is fully matured with all pistils ambered and most trics cloudy, and it's only about 43 days in, but if it were in HBB or soil, I presume it might not be this far along.