JustMeds
Well-Known Member
If that all hooks up with the root system she will blast off for sure.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
Slowpuffer
Well-Known Member
I posted these in my journal yesterday but figured I would post them here too. I potted a clone in some third run soil the other day and watered in with transplant. A day or two later an the top of the pot looked like this:
This is what my pots normally look like:
I'm betting it's mychorraizae from the Roots powder the got sprinkled around the hole feeding on the EWC and other organic matter....or....it's the worst case of spider mites I've ever seen!
I think you said it in your thread already Yeti., Mycelium... and it’s made by mycorrhizae 
Amazing bloom of it! Must have detected some tasty treats in thin air! 
Amazing bloom of it! Must have detected some tasty treats in thin air! - Thread starter
- #23,005
It's perfectly normal. I have some pics of it here or there too. Normal, nice, friendly stuff.....mycos.
I’m a fan of weaponized foliars!Looks like a job for THE WEAPONIZED FOLIAR spray
I don’t know if this officially endorsed, but I have been spraying my plants DAILY with 1/4 strength weaponized foliars. I spray leaf wash on Monday and then alternate between Destress and Brix.
Ok so I was wondering should I be doing the leafwash like once each week to prevent pests? Or is there some other item u make that I could buy to use as a pest preventative or weekly ipm (integrated pest management) versus waiting for my plants to get an issue then treating them with the leaf wash? Or is there sumthing I'm missing or forgetting to do as to why my plants dont push the pests away naturally. I guess it could be the strain but the breeder discription online said it was strong against spidermites mold and PM which was one of the big factors as 2 why I picked this strain. Lol figures jus my luck i pick out a strain that's supposed to be good against pests/spidermites and what happens bam of course i get spidermites right out the gate.
The individual who recommended this to me basically advised me to spray the shit out of it just like leaf wash and it will irritate the pests if any are there and deter would be pests.
If I have a plant that I trained the day before, or if it’s going to be really hot outside or something I will spray 1/4 strength Destress that day and skip the Brix.
I’m not sure but since it encourages reproduction I think it could be useful. It wouldn’t be useful on non-flowering plants like lettuce and kale,etc.
- Thread starter
- #23,007
No problem spraying daily with weaponized foliars....just be careful to no load up the soil....mix 'em up real weak like you're doing. Having said that, I don't see any reason why spraying every 3 days would work any worse....
Leaf Wash work best if it can stay on the leaves a couple days.
Your use of DeStress to combat heat is spot on.....
Brix and Cat Drench can be used to stimulate flower formation on tomatoes and peppers. Once the fruiting sites are established, switch to Growth ionic.
No Brix or Cat on green leafy veggies or roots/tubers.
PLATINUM KUSH BREATH TESTER BUD
I harvest next weekend and just did a quick dry for a tester/sample. I'm gonna let it dry a little more before I try it but it sure looks pretty damn good!
I harvest next weekend and just did a quick dry for a tester/sample. I'm gonna let it dry a little more before I try it but it sure looks pretty damn good!
Knifemaker420
Well-Known Member
Is there a nug under all that frost? ;-)PLATINUM KUSH BREATH TESTER BUD
I harvest next weekend and just did a quick dry for a tester/sample. I'm gonna let it dry a little more before I try it but it sure looks pretty damn good!
Looks awsome.
Enjoy that bud! That’s some frosty undersides of the sugar leaves damn.
I figured it was good. I was just surprised to see it is all! I was happy to see it after the initial shock lol.
Slowpuffer
Well-Known Member
I'm out of cat and don't need any right away, unless Doc or other brixer, tells me I need it for my peppers & tomatoes. they're in 1st. run kit soil. I was going to give them a dose of recharge after they get a foot hold if the kit soil. then start a rotation similar to how we use it on our favorite herb. but I'm all ears.
Slowpuffer
Well-Known Member
So what are we saying, that It's impossible to grow like we are and not have mites. I been in coco for last couple yrs., and haven't seen one mite. as a matter of fact, last time I had them, I was growing organically. Do they come with one of the products in our soil or does it create the perfect atmosphere for mites ?? I remember last time I used Axamax and It works wonderfully !! I think the main ingredient was neem, like most of them. Just thinking of mites, make my skin crawl !! And my wife is not one to release beneficial predators. She don't care if it's a friendly bug, she kills them all !! If I get mites in the middle of bloom, I'm screwed !! Haven't seen one yet !!I'm out of cat and don't need any right away, unless Doc or other brixer, tells me I need it for my peppers & tomatoes. they're in 1st. run kit soil. I was going to give them a dose of recharge after they get a foot hold if the kit soil. then start a rotation similar to how we use it on our favorite herb. but I'm all ears.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
@Doc Bud , I am curious to know if you have had your high brix leaves tested for tissue analysis and what the micro nutrient concentrations were? I suspect this data would be a good benchmark for putting together foliar sprays with micros.
I'm out of cat and don't need any right away, unless Doc or other brixer, tells me I need it for my peppers & tomatoes. they're in 1st. run kit soil. I was going to give them a dose of recharge after they get a foot hold if the kit soil. then start a rotation similar to how we use it on our favorite herb. but I'm all ears.
I use the CAT drench on pepper and tomato plants when I'm ready for blossoms. They seem to appear the day after the CAT drench. My tomato plants get huge in kit soil so I like to get them making tomatoes before the plant gets so big I have to water twice a day. Growing them in a container outside is tough to keep them moist when they get big.
- Thread starter
- #23,017
No one is saying it is impossible to grow without mites. Not at all! And High Brix soil, far from providing an environment that mites like....actually provides the opposite.
Many High Brix growers have been going for years without mites. Others, like myself, have battled them back successfully without using anything toxic or unpleasant.
Mites like hot, dry weather. Plants do not. Mix the two together and you've got stressed out plants and steroid-enhanced mites.
- Thread starter
- #23,018
Nope. We repeatedly tested the soil.....still do from time to time. It's all about the soil, not the leaves.
We test the leaves with a refractometer....a brix meter if you will. We don't care about micronutes in leaves.....we care about nutrient density......and that comes from the soil.
The foliar sprays are all done for the soil, not the plant! It's a different way of thinking than some are used to.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I still wish I could see a leaf sap assay of high brix canna leaves. I'll keep shaking the tree looking for that leaf, I just figured you'd be the best first attempt at finding it. Thanks for your wisdom!
- Thread starter
- #23,020
Why would that be of interest to you? What would you compare it to?
The refractometer is a very accurate measurement of sugars, minerals and covalent bonding in sap/intercellular fluid in leaves. By looking at increased/decreased brix, we can easily detect more or less of what's in the intercellular fluid.....
If the plant is healthy, I simply don't see a reason to use a more expensive test. Can you enlighten me?
Also, I just realized that you linked to a webpage. I just read it.....there is some incorrect information on that page. No surprise.....agriculture is shizophrenic.....half organic, half sterile, half something else.....
My best advice on foliar feeding is:
Don't do it unless you have a spray designed for your crop and soil. If you follow the advice on that webpage you linked to, you'll have lots of trouble....I promise.