Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

weenmeoff said:
He's a Hydro Wizard, there has to be a twist!

:theband:
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Truly! And this guy I'm talking about is the real deal. Saw brix levels of 12 in SFV OG once......usually they were around 10-11 however......and on other strains about 9. Best hydro grower I've seen....very high yield too.
 
Doc Bud said:
Stems and trunks can and do absorb foliar sprays. But the leaves REALLY absorb.....60% better than the roots! Most study of the matter has been focused on leaved, for obvious reasons....that's the part of the plant that has stomata.

The problem with using foliar sprays in hydro---as feed, not as anti-fungal/pesticide, is that the roots don't really ask the plant for anything....they just passively uptake salts. Change the rez....change the plant.

The mechanism is different in soil. For that reason, foliar sprays will not be as effective in Hydro....at least the ones like mine designed to penetrate the leaf.

I know a hydro wizard and he spent all his time on environment and res temps.
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So if the plant is getting most of what she needs from her leaves, she';ll only look to supplement via her roots? Either or would work for me. I use potted rockwool which completely mitigates all concerns with reseroirs and O2 or temperature. For me, it's just a recirculating sump. Also, using humic and fulvic acids in my feed, I notice most of that stuff being filtered out of the feed stock by the rock wool, so over time my media becomes increasingly more and more organic. When I make my foliar spray, I have some yucca I can use as a wetting agent which will aid in absorption.

Back to the difference between stems and leaves, I realize the leaves are much preferred, but to your knowledge, is that to say that branches will not work? Like if one were to compare basting every day vs foliar spraying leaf bottoms once a week, would the same amount of feed be ingested?

I'm sorry to trouble you with these outlandish questions, but there's almost nothing on the web regarding this topic and not many people to dialogue with about it.
 
Doc Bud said:
Truly! And this guy I'm talking about is the real deal. Saw brix levels of 12 in SFV OG once......usually they were around 10-11 however......and on other strains about 9. Best hydro grower I've seen....very high yield too.
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Does he blog here or anywhere? Please link me to it if yes.
 
Doc Bud said:
As we discussed in your PM.....heat damage is the least of your worries. Leaving the lights on for 48 hours straight is a much bigger problem, and is also why you had the heat damage.

For the sake of others learning, please post the entire story.
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Duggan said:
Krip....or Gray..can u guys see on the filter somewhere if it says it removes chloramine?:passitleft:
Thats wat we need out of the water. doc just contacted me again today about this matter and said that chlorine is not the big problem, as it does dissipate very quickly , especially with pouring back and forth between containers and or aeration. It still has to sit out for at least two days for all the chlorine to evaporate.
He did add that the chloramine is very bad and a definite not good for our soil. cheers eh.
Also , by looking at those in line filters...one could run two of those in series , correct! Just make up a short section of hose to go between them and u would have double the effectiveness?
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Duggan, the one I bought is supposed to remove chlorimines. My tap is growing healthy plants. I used the spring water for awhile, then got sickly for couple weeks, and went back to tap, and I can't see any difference, so I'm still using my tap. I will check the ppm once in awhile, but as of right now, this grow is going to be something special, I can see the difference, between the hibrix plants and the 4 I have in Coast of Maine super soil. A lot frostier in the brix tent !! My best to you Bro !! The only times I use distilled is when I foliar.
 
Skybound said:
if one were to compare basting every day vs foliar spraying leaf bottoms once a week, would the same amount of feed be ingested?
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I'm trying to get a pulse on how much the branches can take in compared to how much the leaves take it. I just read on RQS about foliar sprays that leaves can take in as much as 95% of the contents of the spray which is very impressive, but hypothetically, if say the branches can take in only 20%, would it be safe to assume that 5 days of basting/spraying branches would have the same effect as spraying just once?

Or is this tangential topic not really been researched yet and would require someone to explore that further? I'm just looking for ways to get around foliar spraying in the dark, if that's even possible.
 
Skybound said:
how much the branches can take in compared to how much the leaves take it.
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Doc Bud said:
can and do absorb foliar sprays. But the leaves REALLY absorb.....60% better than the roots!
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If leaves are better than roots then they very very much better than stems I’d wager.

It’s also clear from what the good doctor is saying here that absorption through leaf and stem in a hydro setup is going to differ greatly to what can happen in soil.

Therefore any data you see in relation to absorption has to be the result of tests done in hydro, otherwise it’s kinda meaningless to you. IMO :)
 
Skybound said:
I'm trying to get a pulse on how much the branches can take in compared to how much the leaves take it. I just read on RQS about foliar sprays that leaves can take in as much as 95% of the contents of the spray which is very impressive, but hypothetically, if say the branches can take in only 20%, would it be safe to assume that 5 days of basting/spraying branches would have the same effect as spraying just once?

Or is this tangential topic not really been researched yet and would require someone to explore that further? I'm just looking for ways to get around foliar spraying in the dark, if that's even possible.
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At the end of the day, your enemy is osmotic pressure. It's gonna be real hard for the plant to rid itself of the excess nutrients in a foliar spray when the roots are always wet and bathing in high PPM salts......there's just nowhere for the extra phosphorus to go! I predict massive claw and crispiness if you try to feed much with a foliar spray.

Again, something that is not designed to get into the leaf but reside on top, like an oil or a miticide, is different.

You've got to play to the strengths of hydro: IE shorter grow cycle, higher yield. I say concentrate on:

1. Environment in room and reservoir
2. optimal lighting
3. Co2 enrichment

you could get another harvest in per year with hydro compared to high brix, with a slighly higher yield all else being equal. If you choose your strains carefully, only growing those that really LOVE hydro---and there are a lot of these---and change temps by degrees, rH by 2% here and there, with Co2 and massive lighting, you'll be the best you can be.
 
Doc Bud said:
At the end of the day, your enemy is osmotic pressure. It's gonna be real hard for the plant to rid itself of the excess nutrients in a foliar spray when the roots are always wet and bathing in high PPM salts......there's just nowhere for the extra phosphorus to go! I predict massive claw and crispiness if you try to feed much with a foliar spray.

Again, something that is not designed to get into the leaf but reside on top, like an oil or a miticide, is different.

You've got to play to the strengths of hydro: IE shorter grow cycle, higher yield. I say concentrate on:

1. Environment in room and reservoir
2. optimal lighting
3. Co2 enrichment

you could get another harvest in per year with hydro compared to high brix, with a slighly higher yield all else being equal. If you choose your strains carefully, only growing those that really LOVE hydro---and there are a lot of these---and change temps by degrees, rH by 2% here and there, with Co2 and massive lighting, you'll be the best you can be.
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I'll have to research osmotic pressure as I don't yet know what it is. My environment is what it is and there's little I can do to alter it save for keep it cooler when hot out, or warmer when cold out, but the RH I have no control over. Because I mix my own nutes from salts, I can target elemental ppm to whatever I want, but generally found the most success when closer to 1.0 EC. I'm not gonna lie, ever since trying to "chase" high brix, my EC has since climbed to about 1.7 which is harsh IMO, so I still have some reconfiguring to do, but that aside, I know I can can do well with most strains, but I want to try and recapture some lost quality. I know my brix will NEVER be on par with yours, and I'm fine with that, but I do want some, more than I have now. Perhaps CO2 supplements is something I can do. My rooms can be nearly sealed off with minor changes.

Once again, if your hydro guy is blogging or online in general, I would love to pick his brain about different things if that's possible. BTW, thank you again for all of your feedback.
 
Skybound,...i wish i had your 'spare time'.....:passitleft:
 
At the beginning of my interest in high brix growing, I read a few articles on osmotic pressure. Then I started saving up for Doc’s kit ;) No more brain strain required. I got it well enough to understand why the kit works... the rest is all gardening now :yummy:
 
Duggan said:
:high-five:Thanks eh...23 months till retirement....:passitleft:
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I guess the lack of spare time is the product of a career and a good life. You are more fortunate and blessed than you know! I presume that comes with much personal sacrifice of course, but still, to have it all go well is a blessing!
 
Skybound said:
I guess the lack of spare time is the product of a career and a good life. You are more fortunate and blessed than you know! I presume that comes with much personal sacrifice of course, but still, to have it all go well is a blessing!
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:high-five:Thanks Sky,...
 
Duggan said:
:high-five:Thanks eh...23 months till retirement....:passitleft:
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Since I can't resist, I'm gonna get this started with a couple....

- Old growers never retire, their misters just don't spray like they used to!

- Old growers never retire, they just need yo-yo's to keep their stalks up!

:rofl:

OK....Your turn! :popcorn:
:passitleft:
 
OK, done, all 1146 pages, I stake my flag here !! on that note, quick question, I planted my two tomato plants in 10 gal bags and watered then in with 1/2 gal each of transplant & tea. Should I drench the whole pot now or can I continue to feed from top for now?
Mr. Krip said:
Since I can't resist, I'm gonna get this started with a couple....

- Old growers never retire, their misters just don't spray like they used to!

- Old growers never retire, they just need yo-yo's to keep their stalks up!

:rofl:

OK....Your turn! :popcorn:
:passitleft:
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Yes, it's like old truckers never die, they just get a new Peterbilt.
 
weenmeoff said:
Looking great guys! Nothing going on for this empty nester, ha!:rofl: So I'll share a couple that done grown up and went to college!

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Dam ween those look beautiful what is the strain if u dnt mind me asking?

Archiweedies said:
Nah but house of hydro sells awesome ultrasonic foggers and they can do whole house humidity if you wanted
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Does that run pretty expensive or no for humidifiers? Cause I got one now that I payed 89 bucks for and it raises the rh in my 5x5 tent but that's about it I tried it for the whole room like it said but then my hygrometer didn't even raise at all. So I'm jus trying figure out a way to do the whole room without having to buy numerous 100 dollar units an do a hit an miss till I get the right one lol.

Duggan said:
Mornin Pooks...ya , about finishing with GI drench. It's beneficial to make the last Drench a GI one to sweeten the produce as upposed to finishing on a strong Transplant Drench which will make the produce more 'gamier' . Cheers Pooks!
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So do u mean to do the harvest the day u use the growth drench or jus use the growth drench as the last feeding and then harvest when ready/dried out or whatever u choose?
Slowpuffer said:
Thanks dynamo1. at 1 ml per gal of soil, that's 40 ml. So that's 2/3s of 1/2 bottle, thanks !! I don't want to screw up now, so 40ml it is. Another question is will tomatoes or peppers grow in hi-brix, without the foliars or do you still foliar? and what is minimum size pot for tomato??
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Well I actually jus did some hibrix sweet bell peppers and I wanted to see if I could do them in 1.5 gallon pots but I only 3 to 5 peppers per plant. So I uppoted them to 3 gallons now and I'm starting to see little green baby peppers popping up. Acouple on each plant so I put them outside in my greenhouse tent I got with my other 420 girls. So I'm guessing I would have gotten quicker results if I would have used like a 5 or 10 gal. Pot instead of 1.5 :rofl:.oh and I didnt use any foilers but destress when I transplanted them but other then that nada. An man they tasted so good and they got to full size as well. Anyway hope this helps out alil even tho it was for peppers an not tomatoes.
 
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