Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Pro mix is a "soilless potting mix" contains only peat moss, perlite and lime. It is a technicality I guess. Looks and acts somewhat like "soil" without containing any soil at all. Don't know if that helps at all...
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Here go toker, read up. Doc Bud: True High Brix

This will hopefully clear some of this high brix gardening up for you. Don't get hung up on the terms...realize the goal is creating healthy soil, not feeding the plant. Write down your questions, then read it again before coming in and asking. No one here wants to argue with you (most would like to help), but if you keep coming in, trying to bash docs kit for whatever reason; because promix is "soil-less", or about NPKs, or about brix testing. Or if you feel like accusing everyone of whatever it is you think we are, you're not going to receive the types of replies you were hoping for.

Promix is soil-less medium. Very much like soil, not so much like hydro.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Great question Ice! Also, this journal is open to all questions regarding HIgh Brix....the In the Lab Thread, I keep focused on the kits, so no problem asking that here at all.

The main thing you want to do with sampling is methodical consistency. Do it exactly the same way every time. I think I recorded this in another place, but I'll briefly tell you what I do.

I test when I prune, usually twice in veg and twice in bloom. I take the top of whatever branch I'm pruning, along with the top most fan leaf associated with that top AND the petiole and stem above that fan leaf. I use a press, designed for crushing tissue and testing brix. A mortar and pestle works even better. You've got to crush the cell walls to get a good test.

Take samples at the same time....again, routine and methodical consistency.

Freshly sprayed leaves are going to test higher brix than not. Old, dry leaves are like raisins....higher brix readings, but totally wrong.

So, in short, take tops use stems and petioles down to the first fan leaf below the top. That's not the only way to do it. The important thing is consistency each and every time. The more of us that do it the same way, the closer our readings are.

In my garden, I can usually guess brix by how the plants look.

The real usefullness of testing comes in when comparing a new feeding schedule or additive. A point or two is significant, either up or down.
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As always I really appreciate your response Doc as you are a very wise and respected member here :) Thank you for your time and reply..

So it seems I am doing pretty much the same thing, just wanted to make sure that I was on the right track and the results/readings I was getting were in line with what others were doing. Its funny because when I get good readings 12-16 I think, Ok things must be working, but when I get unexpected readings like I did with a 23 in VEG still, I always think to myself, is this accurate, am I doing this right? Even though it is consistant with sister plants, but not plants of other strains, I still wonder...LOL I guess its the analytical side of me...LOL.

Anyhow I appreciate your time Brixfather!!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

BlazinThat said:
Yeah i have tons of those, they suck. all three read different temps when next to each other. Im looking for something that takes readings every 5 minutes and will either load them for me or make me wifi or lan download to a pc. Some of the nice units even have software to bring it to excel so you can all your temps and humidity for the whole course of your grow. Basically im looking to control everything and this is a step towards that. Plus i like seeing trends.
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I saw something like that in the hydro shop the other day, a fully automated controller, that interface with the PC and could change settings according to a program, etc. Pretty damn cool!

I'll be paying attention to that kind of stuff closely in the future. Right now I run Sentinel CH4 controllers and have no problems with them.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Regarding Promix:

Is it a soil? Not technically. Peat moss alone does not make a soil.

But most potting soils are peat BASED, and that's what we're doing with this soil right now. Is it the only soil that could work? No.....but it's one of the only readily available potting soils that would work.

We add organic matter, minerals and active biology to a peat BASED mix of organic matter and it becomes a soil.

High Brix soil is a true soil, according to the definition of soil. It is hand crafted....but it is still a High Brix soil. I'd rather use volcanic soil as the base.....but that's a bit harder to come by for many folks, so I chose Promix.

Fox Farms products are also peat based, as are so many others. Peat is a common ingredient in soils because it has very favorable properties that is needed in a good soil.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I went to dinner with a friend and he wanted me to try escargot.

I told him I didn't like snails. He said did you ever try them? and I said no.

After I tried them I still didn't like them, but at least I tried them.

I would never knock high brix if I never tried it.

I have tried it and I like it.

Doc has pointed me towards many paths of growing, and I have no regrets following his advice no matter what the method.

I gave a friend buds of my last grow the other day, I saw him yesterday and he said I still have the best bud around. He said one joint last him all day

G15_Ch_harv2.jpg
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thats looking some sweet !
How many watts and what type of lighting ?
You use any, and what kind of foliar spray ?
I be using DWC with Advanced Nutes, it getting to be a time consuming annoyance, 3 liquid formulas for grow measured ramp up, ramp down, then 3 bloom formulas again ramp up ramp down, and before harvest a flush formula, pricey = Yes, also very void of flavour, richness and taste.
Have a good 1, Bulldog


Hash Hound said:
I went to dinner with a friend and he wanted me to try escargot.

I told him I didn't like snails. He said did you ever try them? and I said no.

After I tried them I still didn't like them, but at least I tried them.

I would never knock high brix if I never tried it.

I have tried it and I like it.

Doc has pointed me towards many paths of growing, and I have no regrets following his advice no matter what the method.

I gave a friend buds of my last grow the other day, I saw him yesterday and he said I still have the best bud around. He said one joint last him all day

G15_Ch_harv2.jpg
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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I think I'm sold. I mean I seen a guy spray bags with artificial smell. Noone cares about quality it seems. I really like autos after last season and even though I can't grow outdoors this year (till calnorml suit is settled), I was debating doing indoor just for meds. The outdoor blue dream is good but I used gravity which probably gives cancer. The debate is that they use it on apples and fruits in the uk. :)

Read some of docs older stuff and I kind of understand a little bit of what he's doing. It's just hard to move indoors after pulling so much outdoors where the sun is free. I started a seed grow after keeping the strains in stasis rootbound and t8s from last years harvest. I have some bought seeds I germed that were laying around on the side. Should have enough good feminized seeds to mess with in around a month/month and half. If I get busted growing though- it's a thousand dollars a plant. My buddy said f this town he's leaving for a temporary spot outside :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thebulldog said:
thats looking some sweet !
How many watts and what type of lighting ?
You use any, and what kind of foliar spray ?
I be using dwc with advanced nutes, it getting to be a time consuming annoyance, 3 liquid formulas for grow measured ramp up, ramp down, then 3 bloom formulas again ramp up ramp down, and before harvest a flush formula, pricey = yes, also very void of flavour, richness and taste.
Have a good 1, bulldog
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TY bull, My post was to show support for HB growing and Doc's expertise. :Namaste:

However, that bud was actually grown in pre packaged Supersoil with basically water and a light tea 2 or 3 times. Foliar Light doses Snowstorm and/or Dynabloom. 600wHPS

Waiting till spring to cook the HB soil. It's been below freezing for weeks now.

I made that mistake last time, cooking in a cold storage area.

My fault, not the kits. It still knocked everyone's socks off.

high brix rocks.....
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hash Hound said:
TY bull, My post was to show support for HB growing and Doc's expertise. :Namaste:

However, that bud was actually grown in pre packaged Supersoil with basically water and a light tea 2 or 3 times. Foliar Light doses Snowstorm and/or Dynabloom. 600wHPS

Waiting till spring to cook the HB soil. It's been below freezing for weeks now.

I made that mistake last time, cooking in a cold storage area.

My fault, not the kits. It still knocked everyone's socks off.

high brix rocks.....
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It was still a nice plant Hash!!! Just not what we had hoped it would have been.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

So like is there a genetic Plant species that will grow better/best in HB ?
Doc .... You be reading this 1 ?
Have a good 1
Bulldog
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
You'd be much better of with the kit than with what you're doing there.....like I said, you can use them. No problema. I'm saying you might get better results with OC+ under those kind of conditions. Strong, bright indoor light is like filtered forest light at best. Our plants like a bit of light as long as it's not too hot or dry.

3 gallons would probably be fine in that environment. Flower ASAP, try to get as much light on them as possible.
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Doc, some clarification please. You and others have referred to "OC+". I haven't seen it described here and a quick google search didn't turn up a definition. Also, when you refer to using a "7 gallon pot" are you referring to a #7 nursery plant container, which holds approx. 5+ gal?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, noted you were gone for four days and the plants did fine. I doing my first grow and will need to be gone for four days at approx. four weeks of veg. Trying to decide if I should just 1) water heavy and leave light/fan, etc on, 2) set up a drip system with lights, etc, 3), kill the lights for the four days and go immediately into flower upon returning, or? Appreciate any advice.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

medmanmike said:
Doc, noted you were gone for four days and the plants did fine. I doing my first grow and will need to be gone for four days at approx. four weeks of veg. Trying to decide if I should just 1) water heavy and leave light/fan, etc on, 2) set up a drip system with lights, etc, 3), kill the lights for the four days and go immediately into flower upon returning, or? Appreciate any advice.
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Give them a super heavy watering at the very last minute. Try to visit them ASAP when you get back.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, you had mentioned raised growing beds. What about drilling several holes in the bottom of a 7gal grow pot and put nursery felt in the bottom of the pot. Place the pot on raised wire rack about 2 inches tall so air can pass under the pot to give the roots good oxygen. What to do think about this?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

1dube57 said:
Doc, you had mentioned raised growing beds. What about drilling several holes in the bottom of a 7gal grow pot and put nursery felt in the bottom of the pot. Place the pot on raised wire rack about 2 inches tall so air can pass under the pot to give the roots good oxygen. What to do think about this?
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I don't think that would do a heck of a lot. There are already holes in the bottom of most pots.

I'm talking about growing in a raised garden bed. I have some friends who grow very large amounts in raised beds made out of rice/straw bales and hardware cloth. Outdoors in the greennhouse, each plant gets a 8x8 bed that is 36 inches deep.

The larger soil volume really helps everything work together better, and the roots have LOTS of room. My buddy gets 4-6 pounds per plant in the greenhouse this way.

Indoors, I'm looking at putting 2x8 watering troughs on wheels, and growing 3 plants per trough. Keep recycling the same soil in the same bed, etc.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

How deep will your soil be. 2x8x? Don't want to be a pest, just asking doc. Been thinking about that for awhile. I've read about it before.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

1dube57 said:
How deep will your soil be. 2x8x? Don't want to be a pest, just asking doc. Been thinking about that for awhile. I've read about it before.
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18 inches or so in depth. That's all they need, really.
 
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