Insert Bookmark here. Thanks everybody. Such information. Now I have to digest it. OYE
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Great link otter! For this convo we also need the type of nitrogen since one causes pH to rise over time and the other causes a downward shift.Worm castings (1-0-0) slow release 150g/sq ft
I found it here.N-P-K Value of Everything
for having that conversation with Doc and posting it here. It's great info. And I would love to be able to grow blueberries. We eat them all the time! You grow down there and I'll grow vicariously up here .Shed for helping me out with the blueberry growing!
This turned out to be the exact thread I intended when I created it, all because of this great gang of curious thinkers! Like otter said, thanks!Insert Bookmark here. Thanks everybody. Such information. Now I have to digest it. OYE
Nice! So Shed. Do you understand the concept enough to put a very short summary together? I understand little of what I read, and I was riveted. You have thought much more on soil than I at this juncture. If I design an organic soil for me, I need to account for the plants needs through its life including the ph of the soil when it's ready to use and beyond. Using proper organic materials creates an environment that wants to keep its balance of ph. During the life of a plant if I water without phing things are fine with exceptions. Like prolonged use of extreme hi or lo ph or many other things maybe? Prolonged use being the point.Great link otter! For this convo we also need the type of nitrogen since one causes pH to rise over time and the other causes a downward shift.
for having that conversation with Doc and posting it here. It's great info. And I would love to be able to grow blueberries. We eat them all the time! You grow down there and I'll grow vicariously up here .
This turned out to be the exact thread I intended when I created it, all because of this great gang of curious thinkers! Like otter said, thanks!
Excellent English .You have thought much more on soil than I at this juncture
I was mocking one of our grand leaders at the juncture. Ok. How am I going to put this to work for my plants is my question now I guess? If you don't mix your own soil what good is this knowledge? Sorry I feel like a stump, I'm not getting a big part of this whole concept . Am I wrong in thinking that if I use a bought bagged soil it's either made well or not? By the time I'm using it I really don't know if it's been built right and what am I to do but be cautious and ph my nuted water?Excellent English .
I'm not sure I can speak to designing an organic soil except to say that most recipes include buffers like dolomite lime or sulfur that will help maintain the pH of the medium over time. That said, my takeaway from this (which does not apply to what Doc calls "hydro and sterile mediums") is that the key is the pH of the medium, not the nutrients we pour in. The pH of the medium can change over time (even HB and LOS) due to the alkalinity of the water we use. High alkaline water will raise the pH over time even if you don't use synthetic nutrients. And the source of the nitrogen in our nutrients (and even our EWCs it seems) can change the pH over time.
pH testing of the substrate is what should be done if you are seeing an imbalance in your plants, not ph testing the nutrients.
I think I got that right but I'm sure someone will correct me if I missed something!
YesBagged soil or made soil (or soil-less like ProMix), the key is that the alkalinity of the water and the source of the nitrogen in our nutrients (if we're using them) will cause the pH of the medium to rise or fall over time, possibly into a range beyond which our plants can no longer uptake certain nutrients from that medium.
Is that clearer?
I want to believe. I do believe. When I figure what that is in my garden I'll let you know. Whew Shed I'm glad I found this Thread. I'm positive I don't know exactly why but I know there's importance here. Thanks for your energy.Bagged soil or made soil (or soil-less like ProMix), the key is that the alkalinity of the water and the source of the nitrogen in our nutrients (if we're using them) will cause the pH of the medium to rise or fall over time, possibly into a range beyond which our plants can no longer uptake certain nutrients from that medium.
Is that clearer?
Nice thanks AG! Thats great info there to an already great threadSo I did ask Doc
Hehe. I'm going to have to one day. I remember using roots organic on my first grow. It was a nightmare of suffering plants. I didn't own a ph pen. Maybe it was the fungus gnat infestation or me not able to read the plants other needs. Even though after I mix nutes and they ph at 5.1 I'm going to feed this and they will be able to make use of it?Nice thanks AG! Thats great info there to an already great thread
@stoneotter Ive used Fox Farms Ocean Forest, Roots Organic (707?), and now Mother Earth Groundswell all with non ph'ed RO water. Try an auto out for yourself or something sometime for science!
If your in a properly built soil the answer appears to be yesHehe. I'm going to have to one day. I remember using roots organic on my first grow. It was a nightmare of suffering plants. I didn't own a ph pen. Maybe it was the fungus gnat infestation or me not able to read the plants other needs. Even though after I mix nutes and they ph at 5.1 I'm going to feed this and they will be able to make use of it?
It's the type of nitrogen that's important, so nitrate-based ones will cause the pH of the substrate to rise over time, whereas ammonium based nitrogen will cause it to fall.
If you want to water with soy protein hydroslate you get to do your own research . Are you being sponsored by Monsanto?
If I were in hydro I would be checking my pH regardless!