Desperate Need Of Some Help

steveinspain said:
Thanks, I'll try that. I've been using fishmix as the chart says to switch to grow once flowering has started...
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I use half strength Gro all the way until the last week or two
The occasional splosh of Root Juice (humic acid) appears to be beneficial too
If the root zone is totally shot, a weak H2O2 solution can clean the soil and replenish oxygen levels
 
Growings said:
I use half strength Gro all the way until the last week or two
The occasional splosh of Root Juice (humic acid) appears to be beneficial too
If the root zone is totally shot, a weak H2O2 solution can clean the soil and replenish oxygen levels
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Hi, when you say weak H2o2 what do you mean specifically? How much per liter. Just in case I can't turn these around with the nute combo you've suggested. Thanks a bunch
 
steveinspain said:
Hi, when you say weak H2o2 what do you mean specifically? How much per liter. Just in case I can't turn these around with the nute combo you've suggested. Thanks a bunch
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The stuff I have is +/-12% so 2-3ml/L is enough though I did use 5ml once with no probs in coco
Afterwards, you will need to recharge the soil with Vera etc so you'll slow things down slightly, but it might save the plant in the long run
It will oxidize excess organic matter,breaking down into Oxygen and pure water, so it's like a double flush boost
Be careful with the % and strength though and make sure you let it sit for 1/2 hour, it's pokey stuff
 
Growings said:
The stuff I have is +/-12% so 2-3ml/L is enough though I did use 5ml once with no probs in coco
Afterwards, you will need to recharge the soil with Vera etc so you'll slow things down slightly, but it might save the plant in the long run
It will oxidize excess organic matter,breaking down into Oxygen and pure water, so it's like a double flush boost
Be careful with the % and strength though and make sure you let it sit for 1/2 hour, it's pokey stuff
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Thanks, I have some from a few years back when I was unlucky with some powder mildew, but I believe that was only 3%, I could look online for 12%. I'm going to follow your advice on feeding and hopefully I can bring them back from the way they're going. All the best
 
steveinspain said:
Thanks, I have some from a few years back when I was unlucky with some powder mildew, but I believe that was only 3%, I could look online for 12%. I'm going to follow your advice on feeding and hopefully I can bring them back from the way they're going. All the best
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I don't usually start bloom nutes until about week two after the first pistils show
Bloom nutes tend to be less harmful in excess due to the lower ratio of N, so you should be on track for some nice bud now
 
Growings said:
I don't usually start bloom nutes until about week two after the first pistils show
Bloom nutes tend to be less harmful in excess due to the lower ratio of N, so you should be on track for some nice bud now
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Thanks for the quick reply. So give it another couple of weeks then?
 
steveinspain said:
Thanks for the quick reply. So give it another couple of weeks then?
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I reckon so - you can start to introduce bloom nutes into the mix to bump up the P and phase out most of the N, rather than just switching completely on some random day
 
steveinspain said:
Thanks, so 2ml grow, 1 bloom for example, does that make sense?
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It does, but you already have signs of excess N, the clawing
Try a couple of waterings with just 2ml Bloom + CaMg to shift some of that N, by that time you will be into flower and can go back to 3ml Bloom 1ml Gro until the last week or two
 
Growings said:
It does, but you already have signs of excess N, the clawing
Try a couple of waterings with just 2ml Bloom + CaMg to shift some of that N, by that time you will be into flower and can go back to 3ml Bloom 1ml Gro until the last week or two
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Thanks for that. I read another reason for clawing could be excessive heat. Still an oven here in the south. Still mid 30s. I only allow morning sun directly and then shade all afternoon. If the temps go down, as they probably will, in September (mid to high 20s) I'll put them back in direct sunlight in the afternoon. I'll try your suggestion and appreciate your time and advice
 
steveinspain said:
Thanks for that. I read another reason for clawing could be excessive heat. Still an oven here in the south. Still mid 30s. I only allow morning sun directly and then shade all afternoon. If the temps go down, as they probably will, in September (mid to high 20s) I'll put them back in direct sunlight in the afternoon. I'll try your suggestion and appreciate your time and advice
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With heat claw, it is the serrated edges that start to claw due to hot dry air
When the whole leaf forms a limp claw, that is excess N - assuming it's not over-watered which looks similar
 
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